Part 8
=Dress faced=—a term sometimes given to woolen cloths, such as doeskin, broadcloth, beaver, etc., having a slight nap. Compare Bareface finish, Scotch finish, Velvet finish.
=Dress frock coat=—(=Revenue cutter service=) same as Full dress f. c., but worn without epaulets.
=Dress gloves=—(1) generally, g. of fine kid; (2) specifically, g. of white kid or fabric for evening dress.
=Dress jumper—(navy)= worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of bleacht cotton drill, of pattern similar to the blue overshirt (see naval overshirt) except that the body hangs straight and loose to 2 to 3 inches below the hips; trimmings same as for blue overshirt (but all of white), the collar and cuffs being of dark blue flannel.
=Dress refines=—see Refine cloth.
=Dress reform=—an ever-recurring evanescent dream.
=Dress reformer=—a human by-product of civilization subject to cerebral coruscations, occasionally menacing to the peace of his fellow men.
=Dress shield=—a light rubber or other perspiration-proof device sometimes used in the armholes of coats.
=Dress shirt=—a (loose) trade term for a white or colored s. with a full set-in stiff bosom. Compare Evening d. s.
=Dress shirt protector=—see Shirt p.
=Dress suit=—see Evening dress.
=Dress suit case=—see Suit c.
=Dress tie=—a folded strip of white linen, lawn or dimity to be tied in a bow, worn only with full evening dress.
=Dress trousers=—see Evening dress.
=Dress trousers—(army)= for all general officers, including staff corps and departments but not engineers—of dark blue cloth without stripe, welt or cord; for chief of artillery, of light blue cloth with 1½ in. stripe of scarlet cloth; for all other officers, the same as for full dress. For enlisted men: of sky-blue kersey, of regulation cut.
=Dress uniform—(army)= the prescribed u. worn by officers at reviews, inspections, parades and other ceremonies when the troops are in d. u.; at such other duties under arms as may be prescribed; on courtsmartial, courts of inquiry, and boards of officers when prescribed; also authorized as a mess dress, and for social occasions when full dress is not worn. For all officers, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes; under arms add dress belt (worn under coat) saber and white gloves; same, mounted: dress coat, dress breeches, dress cap, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs; under arms, add dress belt (under the coat) and saber; for chaplains, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, black shoes, white gloves (when occasions require gloves); same, mounted: dress coat and breeches, chaplain’s hat, black boots, spurs; for enlisted men: worn when prescribed by commanding officer; dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes and, when under arms, white gloves, russet leather belt, and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat, service breeches, dress cap, russet leather shoes, leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves and, if under arms, saber belt and cartridge box.
=Dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.
=Dress worsted=—general term for fine grades of unfinisht and face-finisht worsteds, used for dress wear. See Unfinisht worsted. Whipcord, etc.
=Dressed leather=—any l. that has been curried or stuft with oils to increase its flexibility, its resistance to water, etc.
=Dressing=—(1) a process in weaving by which every thread of the warp is uniformly set in its proper position in the loom; (2) last process in shoemaking consisting of final applications of dressing or polish, the treatment of dull or bright spots, stains, etc.
=Dressing bag=—a fashion-writer’s affectation. See Suit case, Kit b., Traveling b., etc.
=Dressing gown=—a loose g. or robe worn while dressing or in undress.
=Dressy=—fond of dress; supposedly elegant or stylish.
=Drill=—trade abbreviation for drilling (qv).
=Drilling=—general term for stout twilled cotton and linen fabrics used for pockets, interlinings, summer trousers, etc.
=Driving coat=—(1) a c. designed for protection or style when driving; (2) a duster (qv).
=Driving gloves=—g. with re-enforced palms and under-fingers, often with gauntlet tops.
=Driving hood=—a knitted covering for the head that may be worn variously, as a h. over a cap or without a cap, or as a throat muffler, etc., according to adjustment.
=Driving rug=—a carriage robe.
=Drop stitch=—knitting term for a skipt or slipt s., done to effect a lacy or other pattern.
=Drum-major’s shako—(marine corps)= see Full dress cap.
=Drummer=—usually the whole band, judging by his noise.
=Drummond worsted=—in general, any plain Oxford w., twill woven, one warp of black and one of one or two shades of gray (or white), both twisted, and then alternated, the filling yarn being of the same colorings and arrangement. Strictly the term belongs to worsteds manufactured by a firm of English weavers of that name and with whom this peculiar plainish effect seems to have originated.
=Dry cleaning=—a naptha or other chemical process; meaning not washed in water.
=Dry finish=—trade term for woolen fabrics (as doeskins) sheared of all nap, baring the weave.
=Drying frame=—any contrivance for drying underwear, hosiery, etc., in shape and without loss of size, the garment being pulled over same and adjusted; some of these frames are made of wood, others of spring wire, etc.
=Dubbing=—a preparation for softening and waterproofing leather.
=Dub=—(1) in weaving, to dress with teazels for raising a nap (see Teazeling); (2) in leather making, the act or process of rubbing in a softening or waterproof mixture or dressing.
=Duck=—a heavy, strong, plain woven linen or cotton fabric similar to, but of lighter weight than, canvas, used for summer clothing, hospital, army and navy uniforms, and as vestings, etc. In weaving, two threads of warp are laid side by side and treated as one.
=Dude=—not worth description.
=Duds=—clothes.
=Duffels=—an old-time heavy woolen cloaking with a thick tufted or knotted nap, originally made in Duffel, Flanders; match cloth.
=Duffle bag=—about the same as Wangan b (qv).
=Dull=—in the shoe trade, a general term indicating a distinction between bright or patent (or enamel leathers) and calf, kid and other mat or dull finisht leathers.
=Dumbbells=—link cuff buttons with rigid bars; name from having originally been made with plain balls at either end, resembling dumbbells.
=Dummy=—a figure on which clothes are displayed; a “form” (qv).
=Dummy box coat=—not a real c.; an unusable c., carried by coachmen for show; an illustration of the economics of snobbery.
=Dummy buttonhole=—not cut thru but stitcht on the surface only, for purposes of ornament.
=Dummy try-on=—a basted-together fictitious “try-on” of linings and interlinings “fitted” to the customer while the actual coat is being made up without t.-o. or fitting; a device of “cheap tailors” to save the expense of try-ons. Compare Bluff try-on.
=Dumps=—skates. See “High dutchers”.
=Dun=—a result of not paying your bills.
=Dunce cap=—a tall, conical paper c. awarded to some luckless scholar in the old days for lack of brilliancy and worn, for the weal of the class, in some prominent corner of the room, or on a seat by the teacher. “Those were happy days”. Also called Fool’s c.
=Dundee=—a twill-finisht thibet, made to imitate unfinisht worsted.
=Dundrearys=—long, flowing side whiskers.
=Dungaree=—in the British navy a fine quality of blue jeans used for sailors’ shirt collars, watch-marks on sleeves, etc.; also in a coarse grade for working clothes; in the American navy a coarse cotton stuff similar to denim; a term commonly used in reference to navy working clothes.
=Dungaree junipers=—(=navy=) a blouse of blue denim, single-breasted sack pattern, buttoned to the neck and loosely fitting; worn by enlisted men on working duty.
=Dungaree trousers=—(=navy=) working t. of blue denim, made with a fly instead of with front falls, worn by enlisted men.
=Dunnage bag=—a large, long b., commonly of canvas, for laundry, etc.
=Dunrobin=—a fine Scotch plaid.
=Durance=—lasting (qv). (Same as below?)
=Durant=—a strong, close-grained woolen stuff of Revolutionary times.
=Dust=—an article kept in stock in large quantities in all mercantil establishments and usually hard to move save by continued exertion.
=Dust coat=—same as Duster.
=Dust shield=—see Wind s.
=Duster=—a light overcoat of linen, mohair or other thin fabric, once extensivly used for traveling or driving.
=Dutch metal=—an alloy from which much of the “gold” lace of commerce is manufactured.
=Duttees=—the coarse brown calicoes of India.
=Duxbak=—proprietary name for a semi-waterproof canvas used for sporting and rough weather clothing.
=Dye bath=—a solution of coloring matter for dyeing purposes.
=Dyebeck=—same as Dye bath.
=Dyeing=—the art and operation of coloring textil fabrics by immersion in a properly prepared bath; dyes are chiefly vegetable or anilin, and a source of anguish if they fade unduly. See an encyclopedia.
=Dyer=—one who dyes fabrics.
=Dyer’s weed=—see Woad.
=Dye-stuff=—any material used for dyeing.
E
=Ear caps=—see E. muffs.
=Ear flaps=—those parts of a cap that may be turned down to cover and protect the ears from cold.
=Ear guards=—padded leather protectors worn by footballers.
=Ear lock=—the lock of hair curling over or near the ear; any lock of hair on the side of the head; a love lock.
=Ear muffs=—pads or m. for wear over the ears in cold weather, usually of velvet, held in place by an elastic cord or metal spring. Popular in St. Louis with the first touch of frost.
=Ear rings=—jewelry worn in the ears, the lobs of which are pierced for the purpose; once upon a time gentlemen wore them; nowadays noticed mostly on foreign laborers.
=Ear tabs=—see E. flaps and E. muffs.
=Ear whiskers=—short tufts of scrub reaching to the depth of the ears.
=Easter=—tailor’s harvest time.
=Eating apron=—a garment for young children, having a bib and sleeves made of one piece; also an a. without sleeves.
=Eau de Cologne=—a strongly perfumed toilet water; properly, that for which the city of Cologne is celebrated. In this city the industry was establisht in the beginning of the 17th century by Paul Feminis and Maria Clementine, a nun, jointly possessing the secret and conducting the business; at his death Feminis bequeathed the formula to the Farina family, while the nun left it to Peter Schaeben; both families still carry on the business and are the leading manufacturers.
=Ecru=—raw color, as of silk, linen, etc.; unbleacht.
=Edge baster=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who finishes the work begun by the straighteners, underbasters and edge operators, by turning in the outer part and facing (of a coat) and basting the edges preparatory to final felling and stitching.
=Edge operator=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who does only the first seaming of coat edges.
=Edge setting=—the process of burnishing the edges of shoe soles on a lathe-like machine called an e. setter.
=Edge trimming=—see foregoing.
=Edges=—the e. of coats, waistcoats, etc., are variously denominated, according to manner of making and finish, blind e., bluff e., braided e., bound e., corded e., double-stitcht e., felled e., piped e., plain e., prickt e., raw e., single-stitcht e., etc., which see.
=Effect threads=—weaving term for decorativ threads of different colors added to worsted and woolen fabrics, usually of mercerized cotton or silk, or resist-dyed wool or worsted.
=Effigeen=—an old-time lining fabric.
=Egyptian=—trade term for cotton grown in the Nile districts of Africa; very silky, smooth and strong; more commonly known as Maco.
=Eiderdown=—a thick woolen-pile fabric, woven on a cotton stockinet body.
=Elastic canvas=—a plain-woven fabric of linen or cotton, unbleacht or bleacht, of various weights, used for stiffening garments.
=Elastic gore=—a woven tape-like fabric, made in such a manner with rubber threads that it forms an elastic tape or goring which is inserted in the sides of a shoe immediately over the ankles, made so that the shoe may be stretcht and drawn on and held on the foot by this elastic goring, no lacing being used in this style of shoe which is commonly known as Congress shoe or gaiter.
=Elastic seam=—proprietary term for a make of undergarments of jeans, nainsook, etc., having strips of elastic knitted material let in between seams, or in places of strain, etc.
=Elastic stocking=—a s. of silk and rubber threads for reducing swelling, aiding the muscles, etc.
=Elastic twill=—a fine flexible cloth used for dress wear.
=Elastic webbing=—any garter or suspender w. of silk, cotton or other material having interwoven threads of pure rubber.
=Elasticity test=—to determin the quality and e. of silk thread, take a yard of thread and hold it firmly in each hand on some set table or object, and keeping one hand stationary, start to stretch it. If it breaks off short there is either cotton or other adulterant.
=Elbow sleeves=—term for undershirts with sleeves reaching to the elbows.
=Electric seal=—imitation sealskin, usually muskrat or cat.
=Electric tanning=—treatment by electric current in connection with the astringent liquor, to hasten conversion into leather.
=Elegant=—a French dude.
=Elevator-boy’s suit=—same as Hall-boy’s s.
=Elk skin=—a soft, pliable, oilless leather, usually made of calf s. and tanned by a chemical process; used chiefly for athletic and sporting shoes.
=Ell=—a measure of length as for cloth, having different values in different places, and now rarely used; in England an ell is 45 inches, in Scotland 37 inches.
=Elysian=—a fine grade of overcoating cloth, having the nap laid in diagonal lines or ripples, something like, but rougher than Chinchilla, and with straighter hair.
=Embroidered=—ornamented with fancifully workt designs in stitches.
=Emerald=—a green precious stone anciently considered an enemy of impurity and that would break if it but toucht the skin of an adulterer.
=En regle=—in high ceremonious attire.
=Enameled collar=—a shirt c. made of a material composed of two sheets of white paper between which was a connecting layer of thin muslin showing thru the paper sides, after pressure, with a cloth-like effect; invented in 1857. Since made entirely of paper, the surfaces stampt to imitate cloth.
=Enameled leather=—a heavy kind of upper leather finisht with a shiny surface like patent leather, but in which a figure or pebble has been workt into the surface of the enamel.
=End=—technical term for a thread of warp or weft.
=Ends=—remnants.
=Engagement ring=—something you work hard to save up for so she can “show off” among her friends until she finds someone else to buy her a more gorgeous one, when you may, if lucky, get it back.
=Engineer’s cap=—a flat crowned, nearly straight c., made on a band, with a large visor.
=Engineer’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.
=English foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a seam at either side of the sole. See French f.
=English mourning crepe=—see Crepe.
=English square=—imposing name for a readymade scarf with flaring ends (about 1900).
=English waist=—trade term for trousers made very high in the back.
=English walking coat=—a single-breasted cutaway frock c. with hip pockets, usually made of fabrics less sedate than the formal black goods used for the cutaway frock or morning c. (qv).
=English yarns=—worsted y. that have been well oiled before combing, resulting in a smooth level yarn in which the fibers lie nearly parallel to each other. Compare French y.
=Enlisted men’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u.; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.
=Ensanguined undergarment=—a variant of “bloody shirt”.
=Ensign’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variations.
=Enweave=—to intertwine or intermix by weaving; another form of inweave.
=Epaulet=—an ornamental badge of rank worn by certain officers of army, navy, etc., on the shoulders of the coat, usually a sort of plastron of gold bullion with gold fringe, and bearing insignia of rank. Now largely supplanted by shoulder knots, shoulder straps, etc. (=Epaulette.=)
=Epauls Americaines=—French poking fun (?) at our wadded shoulders. See American shoulders.
=Epigonation=—a lozenge-shaped ornament of stiffened silk bearing a cross or picture, worn hanging from the girdle by the Greek and Russian ministry.
=Epiminikia=—bands resembling the Latin maniple (qv) worn by bishops, priests and deacons in the Greek and Russian churches, those for bishops being richly ornamented.
=Episcopal ring=—a gold r., usually set with a large amethyst, symbolizing that the wearer (a bishop) is wedded to his diocese.
=Epitrachelion=—a long, narrow stole worn by priests of the Greek and Russian churches, resembling the Latin pallium (qv).
=Equi-pede=—a horseman’s coat, ample skirted and long enough to cover the mounted rider (saddle and all) from neck to boots, a coat and apron in one, quickly and easily contracted to the size of a sack covert coat for walking and dismounted work generally.
=Erect=—not stooping.
=Erkens’ worsted=—a fine, close twilled worsted dress or coating cloth resembling Venetian, the twills apparently crossing each other. (From name of German manufacturer.)
=Espardènas=—see Alpargatas.
=Estamene=—similar to serge, but having a rough, nappy face resembling cheviot.
=Etamine=—a light woolen cloth similar to batiste and nun’s cloth.
=Etiquette=—the formalities or usages of social or professional intercourse.
=Etoffe=—French for cloth.
=Eton collar=—a folded shirt c., usually of white linen of medium hight stand, but with a broad turnover of nearly uniform width all around, folded at an angle; worn by boys.
=Eton jacket=—a short j. without collar or lapels, reaching only to the waist line, first worn by the boys of Eton College.
=Etruscan gold=—luster removed by acid, leaving it satiny yellow.
=Eugenie’s wigs=—knitted montero caps (qv) presented by Empress Eugenie to the Arctic exploration of 1875, and so dubbed by the jackies.
=Even exchange=—retail trade term, meaning the exchange of purchases for something else without there being any difference in price.
=Evening dress=—the swallowtail and Tuxedo as opposed to frock coats for day dress and sack coats for business and lounge wear; vulgarly “full dress”.
=Evening dress A=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on occasions of ceremony in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as public balls, dinners and evening receptions. Consists of—for all commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat (blue), full dress trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and full dress belt, black tie, white gloves; for chaplains the same as “Evening Dress B”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets. On occasions where the full uniform would not be appropriate “Evening dress A” may be prescribed without swords and belts and with blue caps instead of cockt hats; or in hot weather, or in appropriate circumstances, mess dress with full dress trousers may be ordered.
=Evening dress B=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at social evening occasions where officers are invited in their official capacity, and at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate by officers for whom the evening dress coat has been prescribed (except when the uniform of the day has been white). Consists of—for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat, blue (unless white is ordered), undress trousers (unless full dress trousers are ordered), blue cap, black tie. In hot weather or under other appropriate circumstances mess dress may be substituted.
=Evening dress coat=—a skirted c. with the foreparts cut off at the waistline, the skirts commencing at the hips and gradually narrowing downward, the front made with long-roll lapels, not to button, tho furnished with buttons and buttonholes on each side, the lapels usually faced with silk; invariably made of fine black cloth and properly lined with black silk.
=Evening dress coat=—(=navy=) a uniform c. similar to a civilian’s e. d. c., of dark blue cloth with 3 large navy buttons on each breast, well spaced, two at the waist behind and one at the bottom of each fold, with sleeve marks and epaulets as prescribed for frock c.; always worn open. For chaplains the same with black silk buttons.
=Evening dress shield=—see Shirt protector.
=Evening dress shirt=—trade term for fine quality white d. s. with extra large bosoms.
=Evening dress trousers=—plain t. of same goods as the coat, but slightly shaped, and sometimes with a stripe of fancy braid down the outside seams; in trousers for wear with the dinner jacket (Tuxedo) the braid is omitted.
=Evening dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, of dark blue cloth, cut after the prevailing style of civilian’s evening dress, but with long snug fitting waist, without pockets or buckle straps, suspender buttons inside the band, outseams trimmed with 1¼ inch stripe of gold lace. Also white t. for wear with white mess jacket, of same cut but without stripe on outseams.
=Evening dress uniform=—(=army=) a special full d. u. authorized for wear on occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as balls, official dinners and receptions, etc.: an evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the civilian dress coat, with regulation gilt buttons, of same number and placed as prescribed, the sleeves ornamented in same manner as full dress uniform coats; an evening waistcoat of dark blue or white with three small regulation buttons; also full dress trousers for all officers except those of engineers, cavalry, artillery and infantry, who wear dark blue trousers without stripes; patent leather shoes and full dress cap; shoulder ornaments, etc., per regulations. For occasions of special formality the u. for evening functions is the same as full dress dismounted u.; and this may be worn at above described occasions at discretion. On proper occasions, which are not official in character, officers are permitted to wear civilian evening dress.
=Evening dress waistcoat=—a w. cut low to expose the shirt bosom, the garment being most properly single-breasted, 3 or 4 buttons and 2 pockets, and the opening either V or U shape, with a shawl collar, which is sometimes trimmed with a row of fancy braid. May be of black cloth to match coat and trousers or of white wash fabrics or silk, which latter may be plain or have a small figured pattern.
=Evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) similar to a civilian’s e. d. w., of dark blue cloth with four small gilt navy buttons (or black silk buttons for chaplains). The “white evening dress” w. to be of same style but of duck or similar material (if for chaplains with white buttons). (=Marine corps=) for all officers; of same material as corresponding mess jacket, single-breasted with four small marine corps buttons, rolling collar.
=Evening jacket=—see Dinner j.
=Everlasting=—a cloth used for breeches during the latter part of the 18th century, mostly for servants’ wear.
=Examiner=—in the apparel trades one who closely scrutinizes finisht garments for detection and correction of errors, flaws, etc. His criticism, which is final, sometimes results in further changes.
=Exchange=—to receive back goods bought and give the purchaser something else in the place thereof.
=Expenses=—the one thing that makes the boss sit up nights.
=Exposure test=—generally, exposing a piece of cloth or other material, article or substance, to the weather, continuously for a number of days (usually on a roof or in some place where it is not likely to be meddled with) for determination of color, quality, etc.
=Express paid=—sent, not (?) at the receiver’s expense.
=Exquisite=—an ineffable clothes-wearing nuisance.
=Extension shoulders=—deceptivly broad.
=Extension tree=—a shoe t. having a spring, ratchet or other device for stretching the shoe longitudinally.
=Extra=—a substitute or temporary clerk.
=Extra stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit extra corpulent or very fat persons.
=Extras=—anything or lots of things not contemplated in the price; the “nigger-in-the-woodpile” reason for many low prices.
=Extract wool=—wool produced from waste or clips which are of mixt wool-and-cotton, the wool being extracted by a process of carbonization.
=Extracted=—dyeing term indicating that patterns or designs in colors differing from the general ground color, or in white, have been achieved by (1) acid treatment, (2) bleaching, (3) tying and dyeing, (4) mordanting, etc. See Batik, Bandanna, etc.
=Eye shield=—a silk or papier mache s. worn to protect weak eyes against light; also to hide the effects of “somebody bumping into it the night before.”