Part 3
=Bicycle hose=—stout woolen or cotton stockings, knee length or longer.
=Bicycle shoe=—a high or low s., with front lacing nearly to the toe, and with a low heel, the inner corner of which is beveled off to prevent contact with pedaling gear.
=Bicycle stocking=—same as b. hose.
=Bicycle tights=—just t., but quite heavy.
=Bicycle trousers=—knickerbockers with re-enforced seats.
=Bifocal spectacles=—s. the lenses of which have a smaller lense adhering to the larger, permitting different ranges of vision. Compare Compound s.
=Bifurcated=—divided from a point into two divisions—trousers, for instance.
=Bilbo=—an old term for a flexible kind of cutlas from Bilboa, where the best Spanish sword blades were made.
=Bilboes=—bolts and shackles used by the Spanish to confine the legs of prisoners.
=Biled rag=—see Boiled shirt.
=Bill=—generally an unwelcome reminder of a thoughtlessly incurred obligation.
=Bill book=—a wallet for banknotes and papers.
=Billy=—a thug’s sleep producer.
=Billycock=—Briticism for a bowler or derby (hat), which see (corrupted from William Coke, Earl of Norfolk, who introduced the hat to popularity.) Also see Bowler.
=Billygoat whiskers=—long, spiky chinbeard.
=Binding=—any tape or braid used to secure or decorate the edges of a garment or any article of apparel.
=Birdcage=—slang for umpire’s mask.
=Birdseye=—a small diamond-shaped pattern or effect; name given to various clear-finisht fabrics so woven; armor.
=Biretta=—a square cap of silk or velvet with three ridges extending outward from the center of the top or four in case of doctors of divinity; also worn by the Anglican and Lutheran ministry, the latter being much plainer. A smoking cap is also so-called.
=Birthday attire=—ideal for hot weather.
=Birthday suit=—public display punishable by fine.
=Bishop=—trade term for extra-length overcoats for tall men.
=Bishop’s lawn=—a variety of lawn (qv) originally made for clerical vestments.
=Bit=—12½ cents; a shilling; two-bits, 25c.; six-bits, 75c., etc. These expressions are still used in the southwest.
=B. L.=—overheard by bowlegged men on being measured for trousers.
=Black amber=—jet (qv).
=Black cap=—(=1=) a plain black silk cap assumed by judges of some criminal courts when pronouncing sentence of death; (=2=) a sort of bag covering the entire head of the condemned, rendering him semi-oblivious of his surroundings immediately prior to strangulation.
=Blacking set=—a box or stand containing shoe polishing materials.
=Blacksnake=—a tapering, flexible whip of black leather, used by carters and sometimes on unruly urchins; name from resemblance to a blacksnake.
=Blade=—the standing portion of a folded (shirt) collar; more particularly the ends that meet in front.
=Blade=—the shoulder b. See B. measure.
=Blade measure=—in tailoring a measure taken from middle of back to front of arm scye at level thereof under the arm.
=Blanket=—a sheet of loosely woven heavy woolen cloth, or wool-and-cotton, usually with a nap, used for a bed covering, a garment, or to cover a horse.
=Blanket=—in textil designing an experimental strip or length of fabric (usually 1 to 2 yards), made up of anywhere from 2 to 100 or more variations of a design or designs, ranging from dark to light color effects, changes of color being accomplisht in the loom by changing the shuttles after every few inches of each sample. These “blankets” are passed upon by designers and stylists to determin the particular patterns to be adopted; often not over 4 or 5 are chosen from a large b.
=Blanks=—in button making the discs of ivory or other material not pierced or colored.
=Blarney=—idle discourse; obsequious flattery.
=Blarney tweed=—an unusually fine grade of tweed suitings manufactured by Mahoney Bros., a famous mill in the north of Ireland. (Mahoney pronounced Marney.)
=Blather=—idle nonsense.
=Blazer=—a light unlined summer coat, most frequently of flannel, and in bright parti-colors.
=Bleach=—see Bleaching.
=Bleachery=—a place where textil fabrics are bleacht, whether by chemical processes or by exposure on a lawn.
=Bleaching=—any process of freeing textil fabrics or fibers from their natural color; or whitening.
=Bleaching powder=—usually or largely chlorin.
=Bleacht muslin=—whitened; usually of finer weave than unbleacht or brown m. (=Bleached.=)
=Blended=—furrier’s term for furs so arranged as to form a sort of shaded pattern.
=Bliaus=—early spelling of blouse.
=Blind edge=—see Plain e.
=Blind eye=—a strongly workt but nearly invisible silk loop or eye used in connection with hooks for fastening garments, preferable to more conspicuous metal eyes or catches.
=Blind fly=—a placket fastening, the outer edge of which is closed instead of open as in the ordinary trousers f.; mostly used on overcoats and also known as box f. and French f. See Fly.
=Blind pocket=—any concealed p.; oftenest a small p. on the inside of the waistband of the trousers—perhaps less as a protection against footpads than one’s wife.
=Blind stitch=—to s. in such a way that the stitches don’t show.
=Bliss tweeds=—peculiar sort of t., slightly resembling whipcord, made by Wm. Bliss & Sons, Chipping Norton, Eng., rated the finest known and extensivly employed for fine livery and stable wear.
=Block=—see Tailor’s b.
=Block=—the general style, lines, dimensions, etc., of a hat.
=Block patterns=—tailoring term for (1) conventionalized patterns used by tailors as a working basis, individual differences being added or subtracted as necessary; it is claimed that as perfect fitting garments are produced this way as by drafting separately—and many more of them per day; (2) similar patterns used by clothing manufacturers, from which no variations are made, the style being as per pattern, and sizes being conventionalized—necessarily. A method of garment drafting based on the principle that like causes produce like effects, which is to say, a pattern having fitted one man of a given size and attitude, it would fit any other man of identical proportions and posture; and by proper variation, as required, would fit a man differing in some respect, thus saving a special drafting. Block p. are in wide use at the present day as time savers, a complete range of sizes for each style of garment usually being carried.
=Block toes=—in shoemaking, t. made with stiffened leather, so as not to crease.
=Blocking=—a process in hat manufacture wherein the sized cones are given shape, the crowns and brims being carefully stretched and blocked out.
=Blood=—a gallant.
=Blood=—the finest wool is that of full-blooded merino sheep; the terms ½-b., ⅜-b., ¼-b., etc., refer to that standard and are coarser in a descending scale. See Wool.
=Bloody shirt=—fortunately not a washable article, but a term of reproach reminiscent of Civil War amenities.
=Bloom=—the lustrous effect given to broadcloth, alpaca and other fabrics by pressing.
=Bloomers=—Zouave trousers appropriated by women during the late bicycle craze.
=Blouse=—(1) a short, loose shirt or frock, usually of linen or cotton, with or without belt; (2) a loose jacket or body coat, of military wear; (3) the characteristic garment of Chinamen—need a description?
=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.
=Blow of cotton=—a Southern phrase, employed when the pods of the cotton plant burst; from the old English “blowth”, a blossoming.
=Blucher=—a peculiar style or pattern used in cutting the upper of a laced shoe—having tops lapping together at the throat and not joined together as in plain lace shoes.
=Blue=—the color supposed to exercise a gracious influence over the budding destinies of, and to be especially becoming and appropriate to, boy babies as, conversely, pink is for girls.
=Blue=—see Wool.
=Blue book=—broadly, a directory of les noveaux riches.
=Blue dress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, a 4-button double-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth with 3 outside pockets (2 lower, 1 breast) with flaps, the coat worn buttoned; for officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks, the same except with black buttons instead of gilt.
=Blue jackets=—navy seamen as distinguisht from the marines.
=Blue pencil=—supposed to be specially efficacious in marking down prices for a “sale”.
=Blue undress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers except bandmasters, same as blue dress c., but of flannel or serge.
=Blue working dress=—(=navy=) see Working d.
=Bluestocking=—not an article of attire, but a Bostonprig.
=Bluff edge=—in tailoring a variety of plain e. (qv) not made by hand, but by first sewing the edges of garment together wrong side out, then turning and pressing flat without other finish; a cheap substitute for felled or prickt edges (qv).
=Bluff try-on=—not a real one, just a bluff. See Dummy t. (Tailoring term.)
=Blunderbuss=—a short fire arm with a large bore and a wide mouth.
=Blunts=—see Needle.
=Boarded calf=—see below.
=Boarding=—a term used in the leather trade, denoting a process of making leather supple and raising the grain after shaving, dyeing, etc., by doubling it with the flesh side in and working the folds back and forth by a graining board.
=Boarding officer’s uniform=—see Custom officer’s u.
=Boardwalk=—the ocean promenade at Atlantic City, where, in season, and on Easter Sunday particularly, those who have them proceed to strut up and down showing off their new clothes.
=Boat cloak=—a cape or mantle for use of (naval) officers in a (small) boat.
=Boater=—British for the stiff, straight-brimmed straw hat known here as “yacht” shape. See Straw hat.
=Boatswain’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Undress, Service dress; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.
=Bob=—see Bob-wig and Wig.
=Bobbin=—a slender spool or reel used in the shuttle of a loom, conveying the weft or filling.
=Bob-jerom=—a bob wig.
=Bobtailed=—short tailed—give it any application you fancy.
=Bob-wig=—a small or medium size w. of the time of George II; specifically, minor b.-w. and major b.-w., the latter with several rows of curls.
=Bodkin=—a needle-like instrument for piercing holes in cloth, or for drawing tape thru hems, etc.
=Body-coat=—a dress c.; an under-c.; a close-fitting c.; a livery c.
=Body-cover=—cant for coat.
=Bogus=—counterfeit or of inferior quality, as manipulated cloth.
=Boil out=—trade term indicating the quality of a piece of goods, as “this will boil out”, meaning if woolen, the goods will in the boiling potash test resolve into nothing without trace of cotton or similar non-boilable adulterant. See Boiling-o. test.
=Boiled off=—commercial term for Shantung silk, to distinguish from silk “in the gum”.
=Boiled shirt=—inelegant for a white shirt with stiff linen bosom.
=Boiling-out test=—a means employed to determin the quality of suspected woolen or silk fabrics, a piece of the goods being boiled in a solution of potash, in which the wool or silk is consumed, but any cotton therein remains. See also Acid t. and Cotton cheat.
=Bolt=—a rolled or folded quantity of goods, of various yardage, according to the fabric or material. Cloth usually runs 40 to 60 yards to the b.
=Bombast=—cotton or other material of soft, loose texture, employed for padding garments; wadding.
=Bombazine=—a light, plain woven fabric of silk warp and worsted weft, used for mourning.
=Bonbon=—general trade term for fine lisle and balbriggan underwear and hosiery manufactured by C. & G. Bonbon et Cie, Troyes, France; also C. Bonbon et Cie, Paris.
=Bone=—journeyman tailors’ term for a peculiar hard feeling noticeable in the handling of certain kinds of cloths, as heavy overcoatings and experienct especially in working the needle thru; as, “it has a bone in it”.
=Bonnet=—a Scotch cap.
=Book muslin=—a thin, glazed, starch-filled cotton fabric, often mechanically crinkled, used for cheap cap linings, etc.
=Boon=—the woody core of flax.
=Boot=—a leather or other foot covering differing from a shoe (qv) in that it reaches usually to the knee or above. In England the word boot is synonymous with our word shoe.
=Boot=—a leather or rubber-cloth flap fastened to the front or dashboard of a carriage or coach and drawn up over the lap of the rider as a protection against rain, etc.
=Bootblack=—an irreverent urchin who “shines” the fronts of your shoes, but forgets the heels.
=Boot-hook=—an implement to pull boots on with.
=Boot-hose=—spatterdashes; stirrup h.
=Boot-jack=—a wooden or metal contrivance for engaging the heel of a boot while the wearer drags himself out therefrom.
=Boot-last=—same as b.-tree.
=Boot-lick=—a flunkey; a hanger-on; one who cringes and flatters to obtain favors.
=Boot powder=—powdered soapstone to make tight boots go on easier.
=Boot slippers=—light, soft leather feet for wear inside of rubber boots.
=Boot-straps=—the loops sewed in the back part of boots for the purpose of pulling them on.
=Boot stud=—a small, steel roset having prominent sharp points at right angles to the back; used by golf players and others for surety of footing; 8 to 12 are required for a pair of boots, affixt by screws or cleats.
=Boot-tree=—a stretcher for shaping boots when not in use.
=Bootee=—an infant’s knit woolen foot covering.
=Bootmaker=—Briticism for what we call shoemaker.
=Boots=—a servant, usually a boy or young man, at an inn, hotel, club, etc., who blacks boots and performs other small services for guests.
=Bosom=—the front or display part of a shirt, specifically known according to style, shape, etc., as dress b., puff b., shield b., plaited b., etc.
=Botany=—trade diminutiv for the line of cloths made by the Botany mills, Passaic, N. J. A peculiarity of these goods is that they closely approximate fine imported goods, being woven by German workmen (mostly) on imported German looms.
=Botch work=—bungled.
=Bottle coat=—a proprietary term for a certain style of form fitting overcoat. (1907.)
=Bottle nest=—a leather case with 3 or 4 bottles snugly fitted; for the spiritual refreshment of travelers.
=Bottom=—trousers seat.
=Bottom facing=—in tailoring the strip of goods turned up within or sewed on along the inside of a garment, as of a vest or coat.
=Boucle=—an irregular curly-faced fabric, the effect being produced by the use of a two-ply yarn in which one thread is wound around the other and drawn to make curls or loops at uneven distances; properly a rough, lobby, sort of “worsted cheviot”, tho frequently made with a jersey or stockinet body.
=Boughten=—past participle of “to buy”, in which the archaic termination is still preserved; like gotten, putten, etc., serving to distinguish shop-bought goods from home manufactures.
=Bound-edge=—in tailoring, covered or bound with braid; for this purpose edges of the garment itself are often left raw. See Flat b., Half-and-half-b., Narrow b.
=Bounder=—English slang for one who dresses in bad taste, or whose manners, etc., are offensiv; a “cheap dude”.
=Bouquet hole=—the buttonhole in a coat lapel.
=Bourre=—a sort of silk shoddy.
=Bourette=—a woolen cloth with lumps or knobs at intervals over its surface, an effect produced by manipulation of warp and weft yarns before weaving.
=Bournous=—a long woolen cloak with hood, worn by men in the Orient.
=Boutonniere=—a little bunch of flowers; the principal excuse for the lapel buttonhole.
=Bow=—that part of a pair of spectacles clasping the temple or engaging behind the ear.
=Bow tie=—a t. tied in a bowknot.
=Bowback=—rather humped.
=Bowie knife=—a long, formidable weapon, sometimes over a foot in length and two inches broad, worn by hunters and desperadoes in the wilder and more unsettled parts of the Union. One kind is facetiously called Arkansas toothpick. The term “bowie” was derived from a notorious character, Colonel Jim Bowie.
=Bowk=—a step in the process of cotton bleaching, being boiling in weak lye.
=Bowlegged=—parenthetical.
=Bowler=—the common English name for the derby hat, from the name of the hatter who invented it. See also Billycock.
=Box calf=—a trademark or fancy name for boarded c. (qv).
=Box cloth=—a superior quality of thick, heavy beaver c. of close, hard texture, fulled and milled until practically waterproof; similar to pilot c. and in appearance midway between melton and beaver, and not unlike kersey; also called livery c.
=Box coat=—(1) a short, loose fitting top c.; (2) a coachman’s driving c., with or without cape.
=Box collar=—a high-banded Prussian or military (coat) c.
=Box fly=—see Blind f.
=Box-plait=—a plait flattened with the stitching midway underneath so that there is a leaf or fold on each side of the stitching. Compare One-way p.
=Box toe=—having a stiff piece of sole leather inserted under the upper leather around the toe of a shoe to make it stand up as a solid protection for the human toes.
=Box waterproof=—a coachman’s mackintosh.
=Boxing glove=—a padded leather mitten that can hurt.
=Boxy=—loose fitting.
=Boy=—the kid who is supposed to be everywhere and everything, and generally is, except when wanted.
=Brab=—the sheaf of the young leaves of the Palmyra palm, from which “sennit” for hats is made.
=Braces=—English for suspenders; American for suspender-harness for correcting stoop-shoulders and other light deformities.
=Bradford system=—weaving term for worsted yarns spun by a method carrying that name, (see textil encyclopedia) producing a harder yarn than by the French system (qv) of spinning on mules.
=Bradford yarns=—see above. See also English y.
=Braid=—a narrow textil band or tape formed by plaiting together or crossing diagonally and lengthwise several threads of silk, cotton, mohair or other material, in a manner to achieve a certain width, style, pattern or effect, known in trade as silk b., mohair b., hercules b., soutache b., flat b., half-and-half b., etc. Used for binding coat edges, etc., and decorativly, as in uniforms.
=Braid combing=—wool classification term. See Wool.
=Braided edges=—see Bound e., Braiding, etc.
=Braided seam=—a s. covered with braid laid on and stitched.
=Braiding=—the process of forming tape or cord like fabrics in which threads held longitudinally, are woven diagonally in and out of each other.
=Braiding=—the act or operation of binding or decorating a garment with braid.
=Brakeman’s uniform=—varies with different roads; usually a sack suit of blue cloth, the coat being most frequently double-breasted with brass buttons; blue cloth cap.
=Brandenburgs=—long, narrow, ornamental buttons of silk or wool on a wooden mold, used chiefly for military overcoats; also known as olives.
=Brass=—impudent assurance.
=Brass buttons=—slang for over-gaudy uniforms, livery, etc.
=Brass knuckles=—see Knucks.
=Brassard=—(=army, navy, etc.=) (1) a band of white cloth usually about 4 in. wide, fastened around the upper part of the right sleeve, a red Geneva cross, 3 in. in hight and width, having arms 1 in. wide, stitched or painted upon it; (2) a similar band of black cloth or crepe worn for mourning.
=Brave=—a swaggering fellow; a rowdyish gallant; a roystering fop.
=Bravery=—elegance of attire; finery.
=Brazilian linen=—a fiber obtained from a common South American weed, possessing strength, fineness, flexibility and adaptability for bleaching, dyeing, etc., expected soon to be a popular substitute for flax in nearly all its uses.
=Breach=—see Wool.
=Break=—see Collar b.
=Break=—trade term for tender wool that breaks when stretched—a defectiv condition caused by exposure, insufficient feeding, etc.
=Breakfast jacket=—(1) a house coat; (2) a butler’s morning coat.
=Breaking test=—in general, linen fabrics are more difficult to break than those of cotton. The broken edge of linen shows threads that are long and irregular, the projecting fibers being parallel and lustrous. The broken edge of cotton cloth exhibits twisted threads, the fibers being uniform in length and dull in appearance. Practise further enables the operator to distinguish linen from cotton by the sound when the fabric is torn, linen emitting a shrill, and cotton a dull, sound. Furthermore, when a group of threads is quickly broken, the cotton threads twist around each other, while the linen threads hang straight.
=Breast=—the front of the chest.
=Breast cord=—(=army=) a decorativ loop of cord and tassels of mohair, of the color of the corps, department or arm of service, worn on the front of the dress coat of enlisted men, from left shoulder to below right arm; a variety of aigulet (qv).
=Breast of heel=—(shoemaking) the back of the heel.
=Breast pocket=—any p. inserted in or placed on the breast of a coat or vest, whether outside or inside, tho the latter are generally so specified.
=Breast protector=—a sort of inflated canvas-and-leather shield worn by baseball and cricket players, fencers, etc.
=Breech=—see Wool.
=Breech cloth=—better than nothing.
=Breech clout=—same.
=Breeches=—a shaped leg-covering reaching to the knee, closing snugly at that point with several buttons. Compare Knickerbockers. See also Riding b.
=Breeches hooks=—used in 18th century to suspend the tight, fashionable breeches of the times from the ceiling, the wearer mounting upon the steps and letting himself down in the garments.
=Breeches tree=—a wooden form for keeping coachmen’s breeches in shape while not in use.
=Breeks=—Scotch for breeches.
=Bretelles=—French for suspenders or braces.
=Bricklayer’s glove=—a sort of leather mitten to which separable heavy leather tips are attacht by means of metal clips, the wrist having a resilient metal clamp. More loosely, any heavy working glove.
=Bridgewater=—a variety of broadcloth once manufactured at Bridgewater, England.
=Brigadier=—see Wig.
=Brigadier general’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.
=Bright=—tailor’s argot for any bright technical idea or suggestion.
=Brilliant=—jeweler’s term for a diamond of the finest cutting and quality; general slang for all diamonds and sparkling gems.
=Brilliant cutting=—the most common style of diamond cutting, consisting of two pyramids joined at their bases, the upper one or crown being truncated to form the table, the lower or pavilion ending in a point called the collet. Compare Twentieth century c.
=Brilliant lisle=—highly calendered. See Lisle.
=Brilliantine=—a light, thin, plain woven and very lustrous fabric, similar to alpaca. See Mohair.
=Brim=—the piazza part of a hat.
=Briolette=—a diamond, generally pear or drop shaped, cut with angular or long facets.
=Britch=—same as breach—a wool classification term. See Wool.
=British=—trade term for unbleacht cotton hose.
=Broad bound=—same as flat b. Compare Narrow b. and Half-and-half b.
=Broad goods=—cloth wider than 29 in.
=Broad silks=—trade term for woven silk fabrics for dress and lining purposes.
=Broadcloth=—for men’s wear, a high grade woolen cloth woven of the finest of felting wool, usually first dyed in the raw; the woven fabric is fulled to a considerable degree and slightly napt and sheared, then steamed, calendered and prest to add luster, the better grades being made with a twilled back. Broadcloth for women’s wear is a lighter fabric and not so costly. Name originally used in contradistinction to Narrow cloth.
=Broadfalls=—trade name for front fall trousers in which the front flap or fall extends from side to side or nearly to the pockets. See Fall bearer. Compare Narrow f.
=Broadtail=—apologetic term for the fur of the unborn lamb of the black Persian sheep of Russia; distinguisht from Persian lamb (qv) by the degree of mottling or moire effect of the rich black surface; also called baby lamb.
=Brocade=—a rich fabric of silk, cotton or wool (or combinations thereof, sometimes intermixt with tinsel) having a pattern in slight relief, produced by raising the threads of the warp or of the weft in the loom; the patterns are mostly floral.
=Broche=—a term signifying stitcht or embroidered, applied to fabrics worn with a raised design; having such appearance; a sort of brocade.
=Brodekin=—a buskin or high boot (obsolete).
=Brogan=—a coarse, heavy shoe fastened by side flaps buckled or laced over a short tongue or instep-piece; forerunner of the modern Blucher shoe (qv).
=Brogue=—(1) a rude shoe of untanned hide, (originally with the hair outside) tied with thongs, worn formerly in Ireland and the Scotch highlands. See Brogan. (2) Among seamen, coarse sandals made of green hide.
=Brogues=—trousers (obsolete).
=Broken twill=—one of the technical names for herringbone weave.
=Brooch=—an ornamental article of jewelry fastened by means of a hinged pin; a shawl-clasp.
=Broom brush=—upper class tradesmen’s term for whisk broom.
=Brotus=—the heaping up of a measure; what is thrown in to make sure of good weight. Used in Charleston, South Carolina, and exactly equivalent to the Gumbo-French word lagniappe of New Orleans.
=Brown=—unbleacht.
=Brown=—see Wool.
=Brown holland=—plain, wide linen cloth, but slightly thickened; used for dusters, summer clothing, etc.
=Brown muslin=—just as it leaves the looms; not bleacht; usually woven coarser than that intended to be bleacht.
=Brownies=—diminutiv apron overalls for little tads of 3 years up.
=Brummagem=—sham jewelry as originally made in Burmingham, Eng. See Attleborough.
=Brunswick=—union or part wool cassimere.
=Brush length=—trade term for narrow width haircloth.
=Brushing=—a polishing or finishing process in shoemaking, rapidly revolving brushes made of bristles or soft pieces of cloth being used to polish and brush up the shoe as a final finishing operation.
=Brushing machine=—(1) an apparatus for laying the nap on cloths, hats, etc.; (2) an apparatus for dusting hats, shoes, etc.
=Bryks=—breeches (obsolete).
=Buck=—a dandy.
=Buckeen=—Irish dude.
=Bucket tops=—top boots. See French falls.