Part 9
=Eyeglasses=—lenses suitably mounted for attachment to the bridge of the nose, differing from spectacles in needing no bows across the temples or behind the ears; pince nez.
=Eyeglass chain=—a safety device of gold or other metal.
=Eyeglass cord=—a light silk c. for attaching eye-glasses to the clothes or person to prevent loss.
=Eyeglass holder=—a case for holding eye-glasses when not in use; of various styles, as hinged, open-end, etc., usually of leather or leather-covered metal.
=Eyelet=—a small hole, workt around with buttonhole stitching.
=Eyeshade=—a sort of visor for protecting the eyes from the glare of strong light.
F
=Face=—the right side or outer surface of a fabric or material.
=Face=—the table or (exposed) upper part of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.
=Face cloth=—a c. laid on the face of a dead person.
=Face cloth=—a wash c.
=Face finish=—meaning, in the textil trades, the manner in which the face or outerside of a fabric is finisht; as clear f., doeskin f., unfinisht, etc., which see.
=Face guard=—a mask or covering worn by workers in chemical laboratories; or by fencers, or baseball players, etc.
=Faced=—having an over or underlying strip of same or different material for purposes of appearance or re-enforcement. See Facing.
=Faced cloth=—fabrics having a finisht face, as worsteds, in opposition to fabrics such as tweeds, cheviots, etc.
=Facet=—one of the small triangular plane surfaces of a diamond or other gem.
=Facing=—tailoring term for an underlying or overlying strip or re-enforcement of material, the same as or different from that of the garment, as (1) the strip along the inside of coat openings which also form the face of the lapels or revers; (2) the strips of goods inside the openings of pockets so that the eyes shall not be offended with lining showing thru; (3) the covering of silk laid on lapels or revers, to the edge or to the buttonholes; (4) the contra-colored cloth, showing on the turned back skirts or revers of old-time military coats; (5) the strip of cloth extending all around the inside edges of a waistcoat from neck to bottom side seam, which is sometimes of undercollar cloth for the sake of a thinner edge; and so forth.
=Faconne=—figured; usually employed in connection with fancy silks.
=Factory cotton=—unbleacht domestic cotton goods in contrast to those which are imported.
=Factory yarn=—coarse, unscoured woolen y., used for knitting hose, mittens, etc.
=Fad=—the current vogue; transient popularity.
=Fad=—a hobby.
=Faga=—a narrow strip or sash of silk wound several times around the waist. (Spain).
=Faille Francaise=—a soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than gros-grain, but narrower than ottoman.
=Fair=—see Cotton classification.
=Fair shake=—a fair bargain.
=Fal lal=—any gaudy or trifling ornament or trinket; foppish frippery.
=Falding=—a kind of frieze, mentioned by Chaucer, approximating the coarse red woolen stuff still worn by Irish peasant women for petticoats and jackets.
=Fall bearer=—that part of broadfall trousers forming the front waist band, and to which the fall or flap is buttoned; the b. also contains the pockets. See Broadfalls. Compare Narrow falls.
=Fall down=—one of the old names for broadfalls (qv).
=Fall weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 12 to 16 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 24 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w.
=Falling band=—(1) a sort of wide turned down collar, usually of linen, plain or ornamented, sometimes with floating ends or tabs; worn over the neck of the doublet or jerkin of old days; (2) an ecclesiastical neckdressing.
=Falling collar=—see Prussian c.
=False face=—what we begged pennies for when young.
=False hair=—someone else’s tho it covers your own bald spots.
=False teeth=—of great utilitarian value but, alack! also signs of immoderate vanity.
=Family umbrella=—facetious term for old-fashioned extra large u.
=Fan=—once fops carried them; nowadays women.
=Fan=—the side of a cockt hat.
=Fancies=—any merchandise not classed as staples or regulars; novelties.
=Fancy back=—general term for fabrics having a pattern on the back or underside differing from that on the face, as certain fancy overcoatings, raincoatings, etc.
=Fancy dress ball=—an occasion where one can spend a good deal of money on a costume that may never be worn again—unless he rents some trumpery from a costumer, which nice folk are squeamish about doing.
=Fang=—a broken or protuberant tooth.
=Farmer’s satin=—properly a satin wove fabric having a cotton warp and worsted filling, finisht with a high luster, used for coat linings, etc.; also called Italian cloth.
=Fashion=—the prevailing mode.
=Fashion artist=—a perverse individual who has trances twice a year or oftener for the benefit of clothing manufacturers and fashion journals.
=Fashion doll=—a device once extensivly used to display fashions in miniature.
=Fashion monger=—one who affects scrupulous attention to fashion; a dandy.
=Fashion-plate=—an engraving or other pictorial representation of the prevailing fashions of any period.
=Fashion writer=—a has-been or going-to-be literary hack who need never be taken seriously.
=Fashionable=—conforming to the prevailing mode; approved.
=Fashionable back width=—tailoring term indicating a change in measurement of the back to correspond fashionably with width of shoulder.
=Fashionable tailor=—one who gets the highest prices and who consequently caters only to the wealthy classes; one to whom every manufacturer of readymade clothing goes for his own clothes and for ideas for his business.
=Fashionable waist=—tailoring term. See Waist.
=Fast color=—applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or thru exposure.
=Fast dye=—fast color; unfading.
=Fat man’s frock=—a cutaway frock coat, only the top button of which is intended for use; also called “one button cutaway”.
=Fat man’s sack=—a sack coat made to be buttoned only at the top button, and cut away slightly from that point downward.
=Fatigue blouse=—(=masonic=) a 5 button, single-breasted, straight front sack coat, without pockets and with Prussian collar. Compare Commander’s coat and Sir Knight’s coat.
=Fatigue coat=—(=army=) for enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of brown cotton duck, of prescribed pattern.
=Fatigue trousers=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of brown cotton duck, without stripes.
=Fatigue uniform=—(=army=) for enlisted men dismounted: worn on fatigue or stable duty: f. coat, and trousers, service hat, russet leather shoes.
=Favors=—more or less costly trivialities distributed at cotillons.
=Fay, to=—to fit. “Your coat fays well”. This obsolete form, a curtailment of “fadge”, and in use during the Augustan age of English literature, is occasionally encountered in New England.
=F. B. Q.=—proprietary name for a well-known make of ready-to-wear clothing, meaning “finest beyond question”.
=Fearnought=—a heavy fulled woolen fabric used for sailors’ overcoats and clothing; sometimes called Dreadnought.
Fearnought—(weaving term). See Mixing picker.
=Feather=—a channel about ⅛ inch deep, extending around the edges of a shoe sole, along and into which holes for the stitches are pierced obliquely.
=Feather top=—see Wig.
=Feathers=—when commingled with tar a punitiv form of clothing worn next the body; occasionally met with in communities of zealously guarded morality.
=Featherweight=—very light or summery.
=Fedora=—a soft felt hat, the crown having a crease in the center from front to back. See Hombourg, Alpine, Tyrolean, etc.
=Feel=—see Handle.
=Fell=—felling is the act of sewing one piece of material onto another; to turn in a seam.
=Fell=—archaic for hides or pelts; also used in the sense of hairy.
=Felled edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv), hand-finisht, with a felling stitch (qv), obtaining a perfectly plain surface.
=Felled pocket=—a jetted p.
=Fellers=—see Finishers.
=Felling, French=—see French f.
=Felling silk=—see Sewing s.
=Felling stitch=—an over-and-over continuous s. used to fasten linings onto the outer body, to hold bindings to the edge, join under-collars to body, etc., the closeness of the stitches being regulated according to the purpose for which they are used.
=Fellmonger=—a trader in skins, furs, etc.
=Fellware=—skins, furs, etc.
=Felt=—properly a fabric made by interlocking or compacting wool, fur or hair, or a mixture thereof, by rolling or pressure, without weaving, often with the aid of glue and heat; used extensivly in garment trimming, etc; also a woven fabric whose fibers are matted by shrinking or otherwise.
=Felt shoes=—s. made out of felt, wholly or in part.
=Fencing glove=—a padded g., with a deep cuff or gauntlet.
=Fencing mask=—a wire m. for the face, so constructed as to be quickly removable.
=Fencing plastron=—a padded and quilted leather or canvas chest and side protector with a heart sewed on to jab at.
=Ferrandine=—an old-time cloth, similar to poplin, of silk or silk and wool or silk and mohair, once used for waistcoats.
=Ferrule=—the metal end-tip of an umbrella rod or cane.
=Fez=—a brimless felt cap in the shape of a truncated cone, usually red with a black tassel, worn especially by Turks and Shriners.
=Fibrilia=—a textil material made from the fibers of flax, jute, china grass, hemp, etc., and used as a substitute for more valuable fibers; used to a limited extent in the manufacture of hosiery, blankets, etc., in the proportion of 1 part to 3 of wool, cotton, etc.
=Fiddle=—tailoring term for supererogatory attentions toward a customer.
=Fiddleback=—irreverent name for the modern chasuble.
=Field belt=—(=army=) a b. of russet leather worn by enlisted men.
=Field breeches=—(=marine corps=) of khaki serge or drill, to match f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord, loose above knees and about seat, fitting closely below knees and extending to tops of shoes, fastening with buttons and lacing or all lacing; seat re-enforced, suspender buttons inside of band, 4 belt loops. For major general command and all officers. White b. of same style may be worn by mounted officers in the tropics when not on duty.
=Field coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, of khaki serge or drill, of the same design as the white undress c. (qv) except without vent for sword, and with bronze buttons; rank devices as for white c.; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted c. of 8 oz. khaki-colored cotton material, cut half close, with standing collar, in length reaching to the crotch and closed with 5 marine corps buttons, one outside bellows-plait patch pocket, with flap in each breast, other trimmings, details, etc., as prescribed.
=Field dress=—(=marine corps=) worn by all officers and men (1) in garrison when prescribed by the commanding officer, or in the tropics; (2) for duty under arms in garrison under foregoing conditions; (3) at drills, target practice, maneuvers, and on marches when prescribed; (4) in the field when prescribed; (5) when serving with marine battalions afloat in the warm season or in the tropics, when prescribed. Consists of, for all officers: f. coat, f. trousers or breeches, russet leather puttees or leggings, f. hat and cord or white helmet, sword with undress belt (leather slings) and knot, russet shoes; if mounted, spurs and drab leather gloves; in the field, the flannel shirt prescribed for enlisted men may be worn, in place of the f. coat, with rank devices on the collar and with khaki scarf. For enlisted men: (in this case called f. uniform): f. coat, f. trousers, leggings, f. hat, russet shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; in the field, the khaki shirt may be worn, in place of the khaki coat, with a web belt.
=Field hat=—(=marine corps=)for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, of felt, as sample in Quartermaster’s office; worn creased from front to rear; ornaments, etc., of bronze, in front; for all officers, of felt, the same as for enlisted men, creased from front to rear, with a double cord of scarlet-and-gold with acorns at ends; bronze corps device in front.
=Field stock=—same as stock or neck s.
=Field trousers=—(=marine corps=)for major general commandant and all other officers, of same material as f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord; may be worn without leggings in camp or garrison; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates of same material as coat and same pattern as white linen undress t.
=Field uniform=—see F. dress.
=Fielder’s glove=—a heavily padded, stout leather g., with a web (connected) thumb, worn by baseball players.
=Fielder’s mitt=—about same as basemen’s m. (qv).
=Fifth avenue=—a street in New York city supposed to house the elite and elect of tailordom in America; also specially mentioned for its Sunday dress parades of the “smart set”, and particularly that of Easterday. A name also prominently figuring on the window price tickets of misfit shops.
=Fig leaf=—a primitiv and scanty form of makeshift garment invented by Adam and Eve, the first garment makers of history, sufficiently described by its name; now obsolete to the relief of the W. C. T. U., Y. M. C. A., et al.
=Fighting gloves=—see Boxing g.
=Fil au Chinois=—name given to a well-known ball linen thread made in France, waxt ready for use and of extra strength, for tailors, shoemakers, dressmakers, leather-workers, etc.
=Fil au Tonkinois=—a stout sewing thread similar to fil au Chinois.
=Fil guipe=—a rolled or covered thread or cord of silk and tinsel, usually with cotton center, used in manufacture of trimming laces, etc.
=Filature=—the delicate untwisted silk threads as reeled from the cocoons, also called raw silk.
=File silk=—a fonetic corruption. See Faille Francaise.
=Filibeg=—the Highland kilt.
=Filled cloth=—general term for any woolen cloth that has been felted or loaded with flocks (qv) for weight, body or strength—or cheapness.
=Filler cork=—ground c. mixt with rubber cement or some sticky substance and used for filling in the hollow in the bottom of a shoe before the outer sole is placed on or attacht to a shoe.
=Filler felt=—a piece of f. used instead of cork filler, for the same purpose and in the same way.
=Filling=—the woof or weft threads of a woven fabric.
=Financial circles=—slang for dollars.
=Findings=—the required amounts of canvas, wigan, holland, tape, lining, felt, haircloth, buttons, etc., necessary to a garment.
=Fine=—see Wool.
=Fine=—term used in connection with gold or bullion trimming braids, indicating highest quality (in the sense, perhaps, that f. gold means pure). An inferior quality is known as mi-fine.
=Fine as silk=—a simile of comparison, implying excellence.
=Fine cut=—a delectable preparation of nicotiana tabacum.
=Fine delaine=—wool classification term. See Wool.
=Fine-draw=—to sew and close up a rent, seam, etc., with fine thread and delicate workmanship so that the joint is scarcely perceptible. See next.
=Fine-drawing stitch=—a practically invisible s. employed when the material is too thin or too ravelly for stoating or rentering, and for mending tears. The edges are placed together, as in stoating, except that they are not trimmed, the fray helping to cover the join. A fine needle and fine silk must be used. The needle passes in and out, catching the material lightly and without coming to the surface on the right side, making very short stitches and purposely coming uneven distances on either side of the join, distributing the strain, which would be plainly visible were the distances even.
=Fine-tooth comb=—a search warrant. (Definition vulgar.)
=Finery=—gay apparel; gewgaws; good things to avoid.
=Finger cot=—a covering of leather, rubber, etc., for protection to injured fingers.
=Finger guard=—(1) a protectiv shield of leather, rubber, etc., worn by marksmen, sailmakers, corn huskers, etc.; (2) a f. cot or stall, or protectiv covering, worn in case of accidents, by workers in chemicals, etc.
=Finger ring=—something affording a fine chance for the display of one’s bad taste; nowadays just a gaud; formerly of much significance.
=Finishers=—in clothing manufacture, expert needleworkers who fell-on or “finish” the basted-on collars, sleeves, linings, etc.
=Finishing=—general term for any and all the processes of preparing fabrics for market, as fulling, steaming, shearing, singeing, calendering, glazing, inspecting, etc.
=Finishing=—a process in hat manufacture where, after blocking and subsequent hydraulic pressure, stiff hats are placed upon wooden blocks and by manipulation with pouncing paper, etc., are smoothed and polished, and the brims trimmed to model dimensions.
=Fir wool=—see Pine w.
=Fire=—the interposition of Providence to (some) shopkeepers.
=Fire Department uniforms=—(=Chicago=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, made to button close to the neck with combination lapel-rolling collar; of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with 2 inside breast pockets, no outside pockets but with a double-scalloped flap, as for a pocket, on each breast outside; 2 buttons on each sleeve and with buttons on breast as follows: marshal, 9 each breast, grouped in 3’s; assistant marshal and chiefs of battalion, 8 each breast, in pairs; company officers, 4 each breast, equidistant; firemen, same as for company officers, but no sleeve buttons. =Fatigue coat=: a single-breasted square cut sack c. of dark blue flannel, of same general specifications; vest and trousers to match. =Overcoat=: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with combination lapel-rolling collar, buttoning close to the neck, with same number and arrangement of buttons as described under Dress c. except that there are 5 on each breast, equidistant, for company officers and men; the coat in length 2 inches below knee; all seams lapt, raw; the skirt to be cut on the fold of the goods without opening, with 2 buttons at waist seam and 2 on each side of skirt plaits; 1 outside breast and 2 outside skirt pockets with scallopt flaps; 1 inside breast pocket. Insignia per regulations.
=Fire department uniforms=—(=New York=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut to button to the neck, with rolling collar, and to reach midway between hip and knee, without outside pockets but with 2 inside breast pockets, lining of red cloth or flannel, 3 buttons on each sleeve and on the breast as follows: for chief of department, 2 rows of 8, grouped in pairs; for deputy chief of department and chiefs of battalion, same except spaced equidistant; for company officers, 2 rows of 7, equidistant; for engineers of steamers and men, a single-breasted squarecut c. with 6 buttons; in summer an unlined c. of dark blue flannel; vest and trousers to match. =Overcoat=: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knee, made to button close to the neck, with 2 rows of 8 buttons grouped in pairs for chief of department and for all other officers and members 2 rows of 5 equidistant; the body and skirt to be lined with red cloth or flannel; the skirt, which is open behind, trimmed with 2 rows of 3 buttons; 3 buttons on each sleeve; no outside pockets, but 1 inside breast pocket. For officers attacht to fireboats, a double-breasted sack overcoat, buttoning to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, spaced equally; ulster collar; 2 circular outside breast pockets; length ⅔ of knee; lined with red cloth. Insignia on coats as per regulation.
=Fire marshal’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.
=Fire sale=—faky.
=Fire test=—see Flame t.
=Firemen’s cap=—(=New York=) a dark blue cloth cap of navy pattern, with visor of black patent leather, with insignia of rank as prescribed by regulations.
=Firemen’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.
=Firemen’s fatigue coat=—see Fire department uniforms.
=Firemen’s hats=—(=New York=) for summer wear, a hat of Mackinaw straw, white for all officers (except those attacht to fireboats), and brown for all other members; sides 3¾ inches high, slightly tapering to crown; black silk band.
=Firemen’s helmets=—(=New York=) for chief of department, deputy chiefs and chiefs of battalion, a white helmet with 8 cones having a gilt front depending from a gilt eaglehead and attacht thereto in front with insignia of rank painted thereon in black and red, with title in black letters on scroll of gold; for officers of engine and hook and ladder companies, same, but of black with a white front, with insignia variously differentiated; for engineers of steamers, an all-black helmet with title and number black on white; for firemen of hook and ladder companies, black with red front, with number, etc., in white.
=Firemen’s overcoat=—see Fire department uniforms.
=First pressing=—in clothing manufacture the operation of pressing-off a garment, as a coat, preparatory to marking and sewing on buttons. Compare Underpressing and After p.
=Fish=—a dart or V. See Dart.
=Fish bag=—see Live net.
=Fish-eye face=—trade name for pearl and other buttons having a slightly rounded f. across which an oval slit is cut holding two holes to sew thru.
=Fishing boot=—same as hunting b. (qv) without the hobnails.
=Fishing cape=—a plain c. of any waterproof material, worn as a protection against rain.
=Fishing glove=—a g. of soft leather, loose fitting, with fingers cut half length.
=Fishing hat=—almost any old thing with a wide brim; name sometimes applied to a light muslin, wide brimmed h. on a wire frame.
=Fishing helmet=—a sort of storm hat.
=Fitters=—in clothing manufacture the workmen who inspect and assemble the parts of garments as received from the cutting department.
=Fittings=—tailoring term for the necessary pieces of cloth for facings, pocket welts, etc. Compare Findings.
=Flambustious=—showy; gaudy; or good; as “we will have a flambustious time”. If this word is derived from “flam”, a lie or cheat, a certain transition of meaning has occurred.
=Flame tests=—pure dye silk will shrivel up immediately where flame is applied, leaving a dull leaden color without fire; weighted silk retains flame after match is removed and may either shrivel or burn up; cotton or other substitute or adulterant, except wool, will burn until consumed; wool chars much like silk.
=Flanging=—a process in hat manufacture subsequent to curling, binding and trimming, whereby further and final shape is given to the brims.
=Flannel=—(1) general name for a large variety of soft finisht all-wool fabrics, usually loosely woven of coarse lightly twisted yarns and but very slightly fulled, tho commonly well teasled. For men’s wear generally a very superior grade, of twill weave, fulled to a degree resembling cheviot. See also Mackinaw f., Navy twills, Shirting f., Shaker f., Baby f., etc.; (2) weaving term for undyed cloths and suiting fabrics as they come from the loom and before they reach the dye vat.
=Flannelette=—a stout half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric, loom figured and close napt. See Outing cloth.
=Flannels=—colloquial for (1) summer outing suits (usually coat and trousers) of flannel, properly in white or light colorings; and (2) for winter woolen undergarments.
=Flap=—a limber hanging part; a covering for pockets in garments.
=Flap=—the shield or falling front part of front fall trousers.
=Flap-pad=—see Pad and Looney.
=Flapped pocket=—a p. with a flap over its opening. Compare Welted p.
=Flare=—an outward spreading or widening, as of the skirts of a coat.
=Flashy=—showy, meretricious.
=Flask funnel=—a device to assist you in not wasting it.
=Flat back=—tailor’s term for a man over-erect with a narrow back and full chest.
=Flat bound=—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by the use of a wide silk or other braid laid widely on the face or outer surface and but narrowly underneath and over the edge, then stitcht onto the two surface edges and prest, obtaining a flattened effect.
=Flat braid=—formed by a number of threads laid zigzag and crossing each other alternately over and under. See Silk b.
=Flat button=—not hollowed, or rounded, or shaped in any way—a general term.
=Flat buttonhole=—see Satin b.
=Flat foot=—needing an arch support (qv).
=Flat goods=—trade term for hosiery, underwear, etc., not soft ribbed or fashioned.
=Flat iron=—trade term for a style in shoes popular several years ago, quite pointed at the toe but widening sharply to the ball of the foot, resembling a flat iron in shape, hence name.
=Flat last=—trade term for shoes with the soles resting flat on the ground. Compare Rocking l.
=Flat seam=—see Pique s.
=Flat set=—hatter’s term for very flat hat brims.
=Flax comb=—a hatchel.
=Fleece=—see Wool.
=Flesher=—one who fleshes hides.
=Fleshers=—trade name for split glove skins as received from abroad.
=Fleshing=—a process in the curing and dressing of furs and leather: removing the flesh and fat from the skin.
=Fleshings=—properly, flesh-colored tights; loosely, tights in general, particularly if liberally exhibiting the anatomy.
=Fleuret silk=—same as Spun s.
=Float=—in weaving, the passage of a filling thread under or over several warp threads without being engaged by them.
=Flock=—short refuse or finely powdered wool waste or dust used in finishing cheap woolens. (Flocks.) See Extract wool.
=Floorwalker=—a smooth gentleman, hired to add dignity to a store, who directs you to some place you did not ask for.