Part 5
=Chambray=—a fine quality of gingham, plain colored, woven of very fine count cotton yarns, the warp and weft usually of different colors, with a linen finish.
=Chamois=—a soft, pliable leather, originally prepared from the skin of the c. goat, used for gloves, garment interlining, chest protectors, pockets, window cleaning, etc.
=Chamois fiber=—name given to a stout crinkled paper fabric used as an interlining, for chest protectors, etc.
=Chamois pocket=—a p. in trousers, waistcoat or other garment, chamois lined.
=Championship belt=—usually a most gorgeous affair competed for by pugilists.
=Change pocket=—a small p. for small change, usually placed on the right side of coats, either above or within the regular p. on that side, and occasionally, in overcoats, on the inside facing of the left side; also called ticket p.
=Changeant=—changeable; an effect in weaving obtained by employing both warp and weft, composed of two strands of different colors, the changeable colors being an effect of light-play, according as viewed.
=Changey-for-changey=—(nautical) an expression used in relation to a “swap”, denoting that each party is satisfied with his bargain.
=Channel=—in shoemaking, the groove or gutter along the edges of the sole wherein are the stitches holding sole and other parts together.
=Chap money=—English provincialism for a rebate allowed by a dealer for spot cash payment.
=Chaparejos=—strong leather breeches or overalls to protect the legs from trees and brush while riding; worn by cowboys on the plains and by them commonly abbreviated to “chaps”.
=Chaparro=—see Chaparejos.
=Chape=—(1) the metal tip of a scabbard; (2) a catch or loop.
=Chapeau=—a hat; especially, a plumed or military hat.
=Chapeau=—(=navy=) a rigid cockt hat of black silk beaver, 16 to 18 in. from peak to peak, 5–5½ in. high on left fan, 4–4½ in. high on right fan. For the admiral of the navy, to have in the fold at each end a tassel of 5 gold bullions underlaid by 5 blue bullions; a strip of 2 in. gold lace laid on flat around the outer rims of the fans, passing under the peaks; on the right fan a 3¾ in. black silk cockade with a loop of 1½ in. gold lace over it, fastened with a large size navy button, the ends of the loop being carried over the rim; for rear admirals, the same but with a 1½ in. strip of gold lace around the outer rims; for other commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers, the same, but with a strip of black silk 2½ in. wide around the rims, in lieu of gold lace, laid on half-and-half; (=Army=) similar, according to pattern in offices of quartermaster general; to be worn with the peak front turned slightly to the left, showing the gilt ornaments upon the right side; (=Marine corps=) of black silk plush, curved pattern, same as prescribed for general officers of the army, except that both sides shall be 5 in. high, with an embroidered gold lace ornament on the right side surmounted with a marine corps cap ornament and a large marine corps button, a gold wire tassel in front and rear peak, and a plume of canary colored cock feathers for major general commandant; for all staff officers (optional) the same, except that the plume is of red cock feathers. This chapeau may be worn with special full dress and full dress in place of cap for indoor occasions when desired; never to be worn when mounted. (=Revenue cutter service=) a rigid or folding chapeau of black silk beaver, of same dimensions as prescribed for the navy, the rims bound with black silk lace 2½ in. wide, showing half-and-half; on the right fan a black silk cockade 3¾ in., over which is a strip of gold lace fastened with a revenue service button, a tassel of 3 gold and 3 blue bullions in each peak.
=Chapeau bras=—a soft, three-cornered dress hat that can be folded and carried under the arm, worn commonly in the 18th century and still by officers in the U. S. navy.
=Chapeau de poil=—a beaver or felt hat.
=Chapka=—(Bohemian) a sort of mortarboard hat, part of the Lanciers uniform.
=Chaplain’s evening dress coat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. c.
=Chaplain’s evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. w.
=Chaplain’s full dress coat=—(=army=) a single-breasted frock c. of black cloth with standing collar, fastening with 9 black silk buttons; no ornaments.
=Chaplain’s frock coat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted f. c. of dark blue cloth, buttoning to the neck, with one row of 7 flat black silk buttons and plain standing collar on which is embroidered in silver a Latin cross, and on the sleeves rows of black braid according to rank.
=Chaplain’s hat=—(=army=) with full dress and dress uniforms, a black felt h., similar to the service h. (qv) with a cord of gold bullion and black silk intermixt.
=Chaplain’s mess jacket=—(=navy=) see Mess j.
=Chaplain’s undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) see Undress w.
=Chaplain’s vestments=—(=army and navy=) while conducting services the chaplain may wear the v. of the church to which he belongs.
=Chaplain’s white service coat=—(=navy=) same as w. s. c. (qv), but with white buttons.
=Chaplet=—a wreath or garland for the head—worn only in pictures from mythology; perhaps, by certain of the illuminati of the very ancient past; and by the near-actors in certain frivolous and unclassifiable theatrical productions of latter times.
=Chapman=—a peddler of trifles or cheap small wares.
=Chappau=—a sort of coat or tunic of silk or woolen cloth worn by the Uzbek Tartars, beneath an overgarment of woolen cloth.
=Chaps=—see Chaparejos.
=Character wig=—(theatrical) any w. designed to help delinat the character portrayed.
=Charge account=—a soft snap for papa’s boy.
=Charges prepaid=—supposed to be an inducement for orders; but analysis of inventory statements shows that the buyer always stands it.
=Chasuble=—a sleeveless mantle falling low in front and behind, with a cross on the back; worn by Latin, Greek and Anglican priests; the principal vestment regarded as strictly sacerdotal or sacrificial.
=Chauffeur’s livery=—see Appendix.
=Chauffeur’s sack coat=—same as Norfolk jacket, but with turned down collar and military closed neck.
=Chauffeur’s suit=—any s. designed for service wear of the automobile operator.
=Chausse=—the early name for drawers.
=Cheap tailor=—one who makes, or claims to make, clothes to order at prices as low as and often much lower than readymade garments may be obtained for. Garments made by such tailors are usually made under practically the same conditions as readymade—by machinery and by operators instead of by journeymen tailors and hand work; the main difference being that each order is cut separately instead of several garments being cut at one time as in readymade. Unless the “cheap tailor” has facilities for obtaining his cloths and other materials direct from the mills, as have readymaders, and has a large business to take care of such necessarily large purchases, there are no other advantages, as he must then buy thru jobbers, in small lots at higher prices. Because of much fraud and deceit in connection with cheap tailoring in the past, the “cheap tailor” is not always highly regarded, tho there are many inexpensiv tailors enjoying the requisit facilities, who have built-up large businesses by fair and square dealing.
=Check—in= weaving a design produced by different colors crossing at right angles forming small squares.
=Check kersey=—one of the old names for k.
=Cheeks=—an old sobriquet for a marine, derived from a rough pun on his uniform in the olden days.
=Cheese=—familiar term for c. press block (qv).
=Cheese cloth=—a thin, sleezy, loosely woven, unbleacht or bleacht cotton fabric, used chiefly (in men’s wear) as a covering for padding and garment interlining; also, shellackt, to give body to silk hats and the like.
=Cheese press block=—a half circular segment of seasoned hardwood, about 3 × 12 × 18 inches, used by tailors for pressing seams, lapels, edges, etc.
=Chest=—the part of the body enclosed by the ribs and the breastbone.
=Chest=—a wooden box for holding clothes and other personal property.
=Chest measure=—a standard of sizing by which readymade clothes, shirts, etc., are bought and sold.
=Chest protector=—an undergarment of felt, wool, chamois or paper fiber, worn under the dress shirt for extra protection in cold weather; vulgarly “liver pad”.
=Chester=—colloquial English for top coat; abbreviation of Chesterfield (?).
=Chester jacket=—a single-breasted sack coat similar to a Norfolk.
=Chesterfield=—(1) a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, of medium length, having a plain back with or without a center seam; (2) also a single-breasted cutaway frock coat for stout men, usually made with 4 buttons, the top one only used.
=Chesty=—full chested; pigeon breasted.
=Cheval glass=—a long mirror, revealing the entire person, much employed by those who think themselves good to look upon.
=Cheviot=—originally a rough, twill woven, slightly fulled fabric, with shaggy nap, woven from the coarse strong wool of the c. sheep, whence name; more generally any rough-finisht, twill woven fabric of strong, coarse wool, thoroly fulled, either with rough (or open) or close finish (long or short nap), used as suiting and overcoating.
=Cheviot shirting=—a heavy, plain or twilled, soft finisht cotton fabric, woven of single-thread warp and weft sufficiently coarse to produce weight, usually with loom-produced patterns such as small checks and stripes.
=Chevreau=—(glove term) real kid, fed only by the mother, never having browsed. Compare Chevrette.
=Chevrette=—(glove term) kid older than chevreau (qv), having eaten other foods, as grass, etc., the skins being consequently harder and tougher.
=Chevron=—in weaving, a pattern characterized by zigzag lines or stripes; herringbone.
=Chevron=—(1) a device, consisting of two or more bars meeting at an angle, worn on the sleeve by non-commissioned officers to indicate rank; (2) an heraldic device.
=Chicken skin=—a material once actually used for gloves and fans, but now quite unused for such purposes—not, indeed, that the creatures have been cultivated into any greater tenderness nowadays.
=Chimere=—a gown worn by Anglican bishops.
=Chimneypot=—a tall or top hat, usually applied to those of felt.
=Chin clout=—a muffler.
=Chin latch=—a small cloth strap to fasten together the turned-up collar of an overcoat or ulster; fastened by means of buttons and buttonholes.
=Chin lines=—whiskers.
=Chin stay=—see C. strap.
=Chin strap=—a band passing under the chin for holding on a cap or hat; an extendible s. attacht to uniform caps, usually worn closed on the upper side of visor, or in the case of shakos, falling loosely in front of, but not under the chin.
=Chin tuft=—a wee beard; a goatee or imperial.
=China silk=—a light, thin, plain woven silk fabric; pongee.
=Chinchilla=—general term for heavy, double-woven woolen fabrics, having a long-napt surface of wooly lobs (or tufted nap) of various forms and effects, but not in imitation of chinchilla fur, as is generally supposed. See Petersham.
=Chinchilla=—an animal of the weazel family, found in Peru and Bolivia, prized for its soft, gray, silky fur.
=Chinchilla machine=—a machine for forming the peculiar knobby nap of chinchilla cloth.
=Chine=—an effect in weaving produced by employing warp threads that have been printed and groupt in such manner as to form more or less distinct patterns when woven; most frequently seen in silks, such as taffetas.
=Chinese grass=—see Ramie.
=Chink=—the slant-eyed dopefiend who declares your shirts are not ready because you didn’t call for them yesterday.
=Chinkers=—cant for handcuffs united by a chain.
=Chip=—trade term for tiny diamond specks used in cheap jewelry. See Rose cutting.
=Chipping Norton=—see Bliss tweeds.
=Chirothecae=—a form of glove worn by the ancient Romans, fingerless and resembling the modern mitten. See Digitalia.
=Chiton=—a sort of short, sleeveless tunic, worn by the ancient Greeks.
=Chlamys=—a variety of himation (qv).
=Chlorine=—Cl_{2}; one of the most activ bleaching agents.
=Chloroform=—CHCl_(3); a good agent for the removal of grease spots from clothing.
=Choice=—see Wool.
=Choiling=—cutlery term for the operation of filing the little nick in a blade just between the cutting edge and the tang.
=Choir vestments=—see Cassock, Cotta, Surplice, etc.
=Choked bellows=—an underlaying accordion plait around a pocket (usually of the patcht variety) for purposes of increast capacity. See Bellows pocket.
=Choker=—any tall (and uncomfortable) shirt collar, especially a plain standing collar.
=Chopper=—in tailoring establishments a man who lays the paper patterns made by the “cutter” on to the cloth, marks same, and “chops” or cuts the cloth. Compare Cutter.
=Chopper=—a heavy leather working glove or mitten.
=Chorus shirt=—see Ballet s.
=Chrome kid=—goat skins tanned and finisht by the salts of aluminum or chromic acid method. See Vici k.
=Chuddah=—(1) a fine wool shawl made in India; (2) also the wool of which it is made.
=Church-of-England hat=—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with plain, flat brim, sometimes (erroneously) called shovel h. (qv).
=Cigar case=—a leather or metal pocket c. for cigars.
=Cigar magazine=—(1) same as c. case; also (2) a humidor.
=Cigaret case=—a metal pocket c. for coffin nails.
=Cimeter=—see Scimitar.
=Cinch=—a belt.
=Cincture=—a clerical girdle of serge or other stuff with silk fringed ends.
=Circular cape=—any c. the outer edges of which, spread flat, conform to the shape of a circle, and generally understood to mean without shaping at the shoulders.
=Civet=—the glandular secretion of the civet cat, most repulsiv and disgusting in its original state, but, properly compounded, practically indispensable in the imitation of certain floral perfumes.
=Civilian dress=—distinguishes our everydayness from army and navy magnificence.
=Clad=—clothed.
=Clan tartan=—any and all of the plaids of the various highland clans of Scotland.
=Claque=—a sort of semi-circle of felt, which it was the fashion in France, in the early part of the last century, to carry under the arm instead of wearing it on the head.
=Clasp=—a ball-and-socket glove fastener. See Snaps.
=Class chevron=—(=navy=) angled stripes of scarlet cloth forming part of the rating badge (qv) indicating rank of the wearer.
=Classy=—a term often used by misfit shops and cheap “gents’ furnishers” as implying some aristocratic distinction.
=Clatty=—dishevelled; untidy.
=Claudent=—a readymade scarf or plastron tied like an ascot or puff, but without fullness and flat as a pancake.
=Clawhammer=—see Evening dress.
=Clay=—a name given to serges, worsteds and diagonals woven after the process of J. & B. Clay, of Huddersfield, England.
=Clay worsted=—see above and Worsted.
=Clean=—well made; of good quality, texture, lines, styles, workmanship, etc.
=Clear finish=—trade term for worsted cloths from which all nap or fuzz has been removed, as serge, “hard finish” worsteds, etc.
=Clearing sale=—the effort made by one merchant to show how much cheaper he is than the other fellow.
=Clerical cape overcoat=—similar to an Inverness o., the cape buttoning in front.
=Clerical collar=—(1) a coat and waistcoat c., straight standing, not turned over, similar to that known as military c. (qv); on the waistcoat, however, the clerical c. buttons behind and has a continuous front; (2) a separable linen shirt c. closed in front and buttoning behind, the Anglican c. being single and the Roman double or folded.
=Clerical frock coat=—a single-breasted frock c. with straight skirts (not cutaway), buttoned from waist line to throat, usually with 7 buttons, with military collar.
=Clerical full dress=—as worn by Anglican clergymen, consists of a sort of single-breasted cutaway frock coat without revers, buttoning to the throat, with a military collar; a cassock waistcoat and plain trousers.
=Clerical girdle=—a sort of cincture of black or white worsted or silk rope with tasseled ends.
=Clerical sack coat=—a square-cornered single-breasted s. c., without revers, usually with 6 buttons, closing to the throat, with military collar.
=Clerical shirt=—a plain white linen s. without a made bosom, but with a simple placket.
=Clerical shirt collar=—see Clerical c. (2).
=Clericals=—short, close-cropt side whiskers.
=Clerk=—an absolutely impeccable individual.
=Cleveland hat=—a white or light-colored felt h., shaped like the silk top h., popular during the first Cleveland administration.
=Clip=—a season’s “crop” of wool; a shearing. See Wool c.
=Clips=—waste bits of cloth and other materials, saved and sold to converters.
=Cloak=—a loose outergarment without sleeves; a cape.
=Cloak room=—a shuffling place for umbrellas, hats, overcoats and rubbers.
=Cloaking=—any fabric suitable for men’s or women’s cloaks or overcoats, such as kersey, broadcloths, beaver, vicuna, chinchilla, etc.
=Clock=—narrow stem of silk embroidery on either side of a stocking, extending beyond the ankle and ending in a spear or crowsfoot; also a similar effect in drawn work.
=Clockmutch=—a night cap, from the Dutch clapmuts; a form of headdress which, tho still worn in Holland, is rarely seen in America.
=Clodhopper=—an awkward, clumsy fellow.
=Clodhoppers=—(1)extra large, ill-fitting shoes; (2) big feet.
=Clog=—(1) a dancing shoe; (2) an overshoe.
=Clogs=—wooden soles, usually iron shod, with leather straps for fastening.
=Close edge=—see Scotch e.
=Close-fitting=—said of a coat or other garment made tight or snug fitting, or shaped closely to the body.
=Close-roll=—trade term for umbrellas constructed on metal rods and covered with fine silk or other material that will roll closely into small compass. See Tight r.
=Closed front=—see Meeting folder.
=Closed gauntlet=—a mailed protectiv covering for the hand and wrist with immovable fingers, with the exception of one joint, so that in the shock of meeting an adversary, the weapon of the wearer, held fast in the fixt fingers, might not be dropt out of the hand—a device which, in the tournaments of those days, was considered as giving an unfair advantage over one’s adversary, and was usually proscribed.
=Closed shop=—a s. where a workman who refuses to join a labor union cannot find employment.
=Closed trousers=—tailors’ term for t. made for customers who stand with their legs close together, the inseam being shorter than is required for open t., which see.
=Closers=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, operators who put together the sides, back and front seams of a coat, making the outer shell only.
=Closing measure=—in tailoring a measure taken over the shoulder from front to rear of sleeve head at under-level of arm scye. Compare Scye m.
=Cloth=—in the woolens trade, a word used generally, to distinguish close-woven, fulled and milled or napt fabrics made of woolen yarn from those made of worsted yarns in various fancy weaves and not compacted but given various finishes, as “clear”, “unfinisht”, etc.
=Cloth beam=—in a loom a roller or b. on which the woven fabric is wound.
=Cloth board=—a piece of wood on which bolts of woolens, linings, shirtings, etc., are wound into bolts; also made of heavy paper pulp b., and wood-and-paper.
=Cloth brush=—name commonly given to a b. of bristles set in a wooden back, to distinguish from whisk broom, altho the latter is often so called.
=Cloth button=—a b. made on a mold and covered with cloth matching the garment.
=Cloth fair=—an English custom of the 17th century, annual exhibits and sales being held by the weavers and factors.
=Cloth knife=—a very long tapering blade for cutting many layers of material at a time, working in a groove in the cutting table.
=Cloth-lapper=—one who folds cloth in the piece, generally by means of machinery.
=Cloth of gold=—generally heavy brocaded silk textures, inwrought with gold threads. More precise information can be had with research—you might commence with Deuteronomy xxxix. 3, and work up to the present.
=Cloth of iron=—see Iron c.
=Cloth-stitch=—a close s., like the weave of cloth.
=Cloth tester=—a machine for testing, from a small sample, the tensil strength of fabrics.
=Cloth (the)=—the clergy.
=Cloth-teazeler=—a machine for raising a nop on cloth by teazeling.
=Clothes=—consult Baker’s “Dictionary of Men’s Wear”.
=Clothes hamper=—a basket for soiled clothes.
=Clothes line=—a rope on which washing is hung out to dry.
=Clothes press=—a closet for clothes; a wardrobe.
=Clothes tongs=—an implement for grappling cloths or garments and removing them from a dying vat.
=Clothier=—(1) one who sells ready-to-wear clothing—distinguisht from the tailor in that he usually gets his money in advance; (2) a manufacturer of clothes.
=Clothing=—garments and apparel, considered as a whole.
=Clothing wool=—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long, intended for woolen or carded yarn, usually graded as picklock, XXX, XX, X, No. 1 and No. 2, the first being the finest, the last the coarsest; the name of locality where obtained is also prefixt. See Wool. Compare Combing w.
=Clouded yarn=—weft y., characterized by alternate thick and thin places thruout its length.
=Cloudy=—trade term for goods not perfectly dyed and uneven in color. Compare “Off color” and “Shaded”.
=Club=—a place for the idle rich to sit in the windows for the inspection of pretty girls passing by.
=Club=—see Wig.
=Club check=—small quiet checks.
=Club coat=—see Dinner jacket.
=Club tie=—see Graduated t.
=Coaching hat=—a felt h. similar to a derby, but with a flat or square top.
=Coachman’s box overcoat=—a double-breasted top coat, of covert, kersey or whipcord, for wear with stable suit or undress livery.
=Coachman’s collar=—a standing shirt c. usually on a band and having well rounded corners.
=Coachman’s frock coat=—a single-breasted skirted c. closing with six buttons, usually matching the metalwork of the harness, large pocket flaps at waistline without pockets, four buttons on skirt.
=Coachman’s hat=—(1) a tall felt h. having a bell crown with a flat top; (2) a variety of Derby h. with a flattish top.
=Coachman’s livery=—Dress: body coat, breeches and boots, silk hat, greatcoat in winter. Undress: cutaway coat, breeches, square-crown derby or bell-crown hat, leggins, selby or top coat in winter; jacket and trousers often substituted for the skirted coat and breeches.
=Coachman’s overcoat=—a double-breasted frock o., buttoning close to the neck with a double row of six buttons, Prussian collar, large pocket flaps at waistline, the skirt folds showing turned back revers or side edges (qv).
=Coachmen’s proof=—an extra heavy waterproofing process, as applied to raincoatings, etc., intended for severe wear.
=Coat=—an outergarment for the upper part of the body as body c. (sack, cutaway, frock, dress, etc.), and overcoat (top coat, Chesterfield, Newmarket, paletot, raincoat, Inverness, ulster, etc.)
=Coat case=—see Portmanteau, Suit c., etc.
=Coat front=—trade term for a built-up stiffening or shape-retaining interlining for the fronts of coats, made of stitcht layers of haircloth, felt and canvas.
=Coat label=—(1) a l. of cotton or linen, usually sewed within the inside breast pocket, containing besides the tailor’s name the name of the customer, date and number of order; (2) a woven silk l. bearing the name and address of the maker, usually sewed inside at back of neck.
=Coat link=—a pair of buttons linkt together, or a button and a loop, used for closing or fastening a coat, as a dress coat.
=Coat maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes coats his specialty.
=Coat money=—a tax levied by Charles I. ostensibly for clothing the army.
=Coat of mail=—defensiv armor worn by those afraid to die.
=Coat pad=—general term for any made-up padding or wadding, as shoulder-pads, coat fronts, etc.
=Coat shirt=—a s. open all the way down the front and put on like a c., whence name.
=Coat sweater=—a knitted jacket or sweater (qv) opening all the way down the front and closing with buttons; with sleeves, but usually without collar, much like a cardigan jacket.
=Coat-tail pocket=—see Skirt p.
=Coat-tails=—the skirts of a frock c.
=Coatee=—(1) a very short coat of 1757; (2) a cadet’s uniform coat.
=Coating=—tailoring term for all fine woolen and worsted cloths especially suitable for dress coats, such as broadcloth, crepe, unfinisht worsted, vicuna, refines, etc.; also applied to overcoatings.
=Coatlet=—a dummy sample showing how a coat will look when made up; a means of showing piece goods by swatches cut and finisht much like a coat front, the effect being enhanced by displaying a number of such dummies in an overlapping row. (Name and system proprietary.)
=Cobble=—to patch or repair boots or shoes; used in the sense of rough or clumsy work.
=Cobbler=—(1) a mender of boots and shoes; (2) a clumsy or indifferent workman.
=Cobweb=—unusually thin, sheer and transparent, as c. hosiery.
=Cochineal=—bug juice; a red dye.
=Cockade=—a roset or knot of ribbon, leather, bullion, etc., worn on the hat as a badge of service, military, diplomatic or (improperly) domestic, etc.
=Cocking=—tailor’s term for critical inspection of finisht garments for discovery of mistakes—derived doubtless from an affected manner of squinting or “cocking the eye” on the part of the zealous examiner.
=Cockle=—see below.