Part 18
=Police uniforms=—(New York) Dress coat: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors: a double-breasted frock of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 inch below the knee; standing collar; pointed velvet cuffs trimmed with gold lace and 2 small buttons; 2 rows of buttons on breast, 3 in each row, equally spaced; double pointed side edges in the skirt plaits with a button at each point and 2 buttons at the waist; for captains and sergeants: the same, except a double row of 8 buttons on the breast, spaced equally, no velvet cuffs; for roundsmen on foot: a single-breasted frock c., closing to the neck with 9 buttons, turndown collar; for mounted roundsmen: a single-breasted sack c., fastened by a flap with concealed buttons, standing collar; for bicycle roundsmen: a double-breasted sack c., with 2 rows of 7 buttons, closed to the neck, with turndown collar; for patrolmen: same as for foot roundsmen, except without chevrons. Devices, chevrons and insignias of rank as per regulations. Trousers to match, plain or with braided seams per regulations; mounted roundsmen wear riding breeches of blue cloth with black puttee leggins. Overcoat: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors: a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, reaching 2 inches below knee; rolling collar; buttoned to the throat with (2 rows) 9 buttons, equidistant; velvet cuffs with 3 buttons; double pointed side edge to skirt folds, with a button on each point and 2 buttons at waist; for captains and sergeants: the same, except 2 rows of 8 buttons, no velvet cuffs; for foot and mounted roundsmen and patrolmen: the same, except 2 rows of 9 buttons; for harbor roundsmen and patrolmen: a double-breasted sack o., reaching midway to knee, buttoned to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, rolling collar, 2 outside horizontal pockets. Insignia of rank, service devices, chevrons, etc., as prescribed. See also Special police u. Summer uniforms—Blouse: for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors, captains and sergeants: a double-breasted straight front sack c. of dark blue flannel, buttoning to the neck, with a standing collar, 5 buttons on each breast; for foot and harbor roundsmen: same style, but single-breasted, 4 buttons, with turndown collar; for mounted roundsmen: same as dress coat except half lined and skeleton back; for bicycle roundsmen: same as for mounted roundsmen, with appropriate insignia, etc.; for patrolmen: same as foot roundsmen, without chevrons—all with insignia, devices, chevrons, etc., as prescribed. Trousers to match.
=Polish cloak=—a c. with double cape; fashionable in 1832.
=Polishing=—a finishing process in leather manufacture.
=Polishing cloth=—a strip of cotton flannel used in shoe factories and by bootblacks for the finishing luster when polishing shoes.
=Polka dot=—solid round dots or spots of contrasting color.
=Polo breeches=—baggy riding b.
=Polo cap=—a “square” or flat topt c. with plain sides.
=Polo collar=—the double or folded highband linen shirt c.
=Polo leg guards=—see Shin g.
=Polonaise=—a short, loose overcoat, worn early in the 19th century, usually fur-faced and trimmed.
=Pomade=—a perfumed grease-dressing for the hair.
=Pomander=—a perfumed ball or perfumed powder formerly worn as a charm or to prevent infection; also a box for carrying such perfume.
=Pomatum=—sticky grease for making spiky whiskers or love locks.
=Pommel slicker=—see Saddle coat.
=Pompadour=—hair brusht straight upward as if scared.
=Pompon=—the colored ball of wool or felt on the front of a shako.
=Poncho=—a cape-like woolen or rubber storm blanket, with opening for slipping on head, with or without collar.
=Pongee=—a soft, natural color, light-weight, plain-woven, washable silk fabric, the warp and weft threads being irregular as hand-spun yarns must be; made from the silk of a wild worm that feeds on oak leaves.
=Pontiac=—a knitted wool material, practically waterproof, oxford gray in color, made up into camper’s, hunter’s and lumberman’s gloves, shirts, smocks, etc.
=Pool retting=—decomposition of flax by immersion in pools. See Retting.
=Poole cloth=—a sort of broadcloth with a face resembling tricot or venetian, named after Poole, a famous London tailor.
=Poor relation=—one who gets our cast-offs.
=Pop-squirt=—a jackanapes; an insignificant puppy.
=Popinjay=—a chattering coxcomb.
=Poplin=—a sort of light-weight ribbed fabric, having properly a silk warp and a wool filling, tho also made with linen and cotton warp with silk or wool filling, the rib effect being accomplisht by the use of heavier weft than warp; almost always plain dyed, and tho used most largely for women’s wear, is also used for summer coats, garment linings and also when of silk weft, for neckwear, etc.
=Poral=—proprietary name for a strong, light-weight worsted fabric combining the appearance of cashmere or merino with the feel and coolness of alpaca; woven 60 inches wide and 12 to 13 oz. weight.
=Porous plasters=—a tenacious medicated p. perforated with small holes and which is further riddled with the stinging wit of the patient when removed.
=Porter=—the individual who leaves dust on the merchandise, desks and chairs.
=Porter’s livery=—same as Hall-boy’s l. (qv).
=Portmanteau=—a capacious article of hand luggage, forerunner of the suit case.
=Post=—the stem of a collar button, cuff button, etc.
=Postman’s uniform=—in general, a double-breasted sack suit of gray-blue cloth, the coat with gilt departmental buttons, and on the sleeves a star or stripe indicating term of service; trousers with a narrow welt of black cloth along outer seams; cap to match. In summer, coat and vest may be dispenst with and carriers may wear a shirt of light blue chambray, without bosom or plaits, with a white collar; cap of brown straw. In winter, a long double-breasted overcoat of gray-blue cloth.
=Postal telegraph messenger’s uniform=—see Telegraph m. u.
=Postpaid=—an inducement for buying by mail.
=Pot hat=—a derby.
=Potash test=—see Boiling-out t.
=Potay=—a name given to a peculiar shape of toe “fashionable” some years ago—transient like most shoe names.
=Pouch=—(1) a bag-like receptacle for money, handkerchief, tobacco and other personal incommodia; (2) Scotch for pocket.
=Poult de soie=—see Peau de soie.
=Pram pusher=—“English undefiled” for a pushcart merchant, one who displays his wares on a perambulator-cart.
=Pratt fastener=—a spring wire coil or clutch, attacht to the top edge of laced shoes to hold the laces without tying.
=Prayer belt=—a sort of sash worn by Turks and other Moslems.
=Prayer cloth=—usually a long strip of scarlet cheesecloth, wrapt ’round and ’round—the winding and unwinding being accompanied by prayers—a sort of Mohammedan sartorial rosary.
=Prayer plume=—see P. stick.
=Prayer rug=—a r., often with a pointed device, symbolizing the temple, on which Mahommedans kneel and prostrate themselves, the “temple” and the face being turned toward Mecca.
=Prayer stick=—a small wand adorned with feathers, used by Zuni Indians in their prayers for rain and other incantations.
=Prayer thong=—same as Phylactery.
=Preaching gown=—a loose g. of black silk or woolen stuff, with plain or plaited closed front and wide flowing sleeves with undersleeves and deep yoke back; also worn with cassock cincture and with falling band at throat.
=Precious metals=—gold, silver, platinum.
=Precious stone=—general term for the most valuable of gems, as diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, etc.
=Premium=—a bonus given salesmen for selling old or undesirable merchandise. Commonly called “P M”.
=Preparing=—in weaving, mohair, alpaca and long staple yarns, instead of being carded, are combed or “prepared” by being passed thru slowly revolving rollers and straightening machinery, emerging with the fibers laid parallel ready for the combing machine.
=President braid=—a trimming b. having short diagonal ribs extending from side to side of the web.
=Press brush=—a flat b., handled, having a very thick wood back, the reverse side being used as a paddle or pounder to work the steam in.
=Press iron=—a tailor’s smoothing i.; a goose.
=Press off=—tailoring term for the act of pressing a garment after making.
=Press rag=—a cloth used, commonly dampened, between iron on garment while latter is being prest.
=Press stand=—an ironing board or stand for pressing garments.
=Presser=—a workman in clothing factories who presses garments into proper shape by means of hot irons.
=Pressing=—the finishing operation in garment making—and an attention that must often be renewed.
=Pressing board=—same as p. stand.
=Price= (=the=)—vernacular for money.
=Price-mark=—hieroglyphic evidence of collusion between seller and his clerks for the purpose of obtaining any price the customer will stand: unless prices are marked in plain figures—in which case part of the salesmen’s occupation is gone.
=Price-ticket=—a cryptographic joker.
=Prick seam=—(glove term) see Prix s.
=Prick stitch=—a tailoring s. used on edges where a stitcht effect is not desired, and when the material is too heavy for either a back s. or side s. The needle is passed entirely thru the material at each s., and returning, repeated from the underside, practically at the same points, leaving only a slight indentation or prick where the s. is laid.
=Pricking=—a name applied to a particular process in shoe making done by a machine which stamps the indentations around the top of the welt of a shoe where the stitches come. Putting these indentations into the welt is called “pricking up” and is done after the outer sole is stitcht on.
=Pricking-back stitch=—same as prick s. (qv)—the placing of the s. makes either a back or a side s.; whence name.
=Pricking wheel=—see Tracing w.
=Prickt edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv) hand-finisht with a prick stitch (qv) showing a perfectly plain, seamless surface; a felled e. (=Pricked e.=)
=Pride of the West=—a standard brand of shirting muslin.
=Priest cloak=—same as Clerical c.
=Prime=—see Wool.
=Primp=—to be fastidious in making the toilet.
=Prince Albert=—a double-breasted frock coat. See Frock coat.
=Print=—general trade term for printed cotton fabrics, as shirtings, calicos, etc.
=Printed=—trade term for fabrics in which the pattern is printed, not woven—usually shirtings, silks, etc., tho satinets for men’s wear are also printed.
=Prison-made=—term applied to shoes and other articles made in corrective manual training institutions.
=Prison uniform=—varies with different institutions, but is commonly a blouse and trousers of heavy cotton drilling in bold black-and-white or gray stripes, running horizontally in the made-up garments, with cap to correspond.
=Private stitches=—tailor’s term for preliminary s. made at the commencement or completion of a felling, stoating, rentering, etc., to gain a holding before the first or after the last stitch of the real sewing; these private s. are not of any special kind.
=Private’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u. Also variants.
=Privy coat=—a light coat of mail, once worn under the ordinary attire as a protection.
=Prix=—French for price.
=Prix seam=—(glove term) a join in which the two edges are placed together flatwise and sewed thru and thru from the sides, leaving an outwardly extending ridge, mostly used for walking gloves. Also called Out s.
=Profits=—anything in excess of actual running expenses.
=Proof=—see Cravenette, Waterproof, Coachmen’s p., Raincoating, etc.
=Proportionate figure=—in tailoring anatomies, a figure that is in perfect proportion; used as a basis for measurements and variations.
=Prospector’s boot=—about the same as hunting b. (qv), but usually knee high.
=Prunella=—lasting cloth.
=Prussian collar=—a plain, turned down coat c. without revers or lapels, buttoning close up to the throat. Also called falling c. and turndown c. Compare Cadet c.
=Pucka=—a word in frequent use among the English in the West Indies signifying sterling, of good quality, desirable, etc.
=Pucker=—to gather into small folds or wrinkles.
=Puckered=—a wrinkled or cockled condition.
=Pudding cravat=—a great puffy scarf or neckdressing originally invented by someone to hide a poulticed throat.
=Puff=—(1) a neckdressing made of a De Joinville or an Ascot scarf, first tied in a broad knot and the ends then crossed over; (2) a readymade cravat of the same effect.
=Puff-bosom=—a shirt bosom gathered or shirred at upper and lower edges to create a fulness.
=Pug nose=—see Snub n.
=Puggaree=—(1) a light scarf around a hat to keep off the sun (Pugree); (2) a turban worn by Hindoos.
=Pull=—see String out.
=Pull-out=—tailor’s term for catching up with one’s work if behind or “in the drag”.
=Pulled wool=—inferior fleece from sheep that have been slaughtered for food or that may have died from disease or exposure. Also called “Skin w.”
=Pulling-over=—see Tacking.
=Pulse warmer=—see Wristlet.
=Pumps=—low shoes for evening dress wear or dancing, of shorter vamp and lighter than Oxfords (qv), and usually without lacing or other fastening, but commonly ornamented with a bow.
=Punching bag=—an inflated leather or rubber bag for muscular development, of which ruptured noses and blackened eyes are a characteristic betraying the amateur.
=Punching bag gloves=—stout leather g., well padded, wholly or partially covering the hands or knuckles.
=Punjab=—a plastron or flat cravat usually worn by coachmen.
=Punjum=—a cotton cloth made in Southern India.
=Punk=—a contemptuous adjectival designation given to shoddy and goods of flimsy character and dishonest construction.
=Pure=—in leather making, bating material, as dog’s or bird’s dung; bate.
=Pure dye=—silk term indicating that the least amount of dye that will give a permanent color and finish has been used; not adulterated with impurities to rot fabric or weight the goods; unfading; fast color; washable. Compare Weighted.
=Pure dye test=—silk to which a lighted match is applied does not take fire, but shrivels up with a dull leaden ash or char, if of pure dye.
=Purgatory collar=—a peculiar turned over shirt c. of about 1888, somewhat Byronic but more freakish.
=Puritan hat=—see Round h.
=Purity suit=—a euphemism of Mark Twain’s applied to suits of white flannel or cloth.
=Purse=—a bag, pouch or case for carrying money, usually of leather.
=Pusher=—a sort of slipper or inner sock, consisting of a sole and vamp of soft chamois leather, worn with running and jumping shoes.
=Puttee=—a legging that looks like a surgical bandage.
=Pyjamas=—a favored spelling of pajamas.
Q
=Quadrille=—small even squares or checks.
=Quaker=—a member of a religious sect having strict rules of dress for both sexes—a case of being particular without being dandified.
=Quarter=—one-fourth of a yard; a unit of measurement for broad goods, such as cloths, sheeting, blankets, etc., which are generally indicated by the signs 4–4, 5–4, 6–4, 8–4, 10–4, etc. Compare Double-width.
=Quarter=—that part of a shoe or boot, on either side, from the middle of the heel to the line of the ankle bone; the back part of shoe-uppers. See Vamp.
=Quarter blood=—wool classification term. See Wool.
=Quarter lined=—tailoring term for coats partially lined, less so than half lined and but little more than “skeleton”; usually a short, light lining extending around the armhole and in a slanting direction to about half the depth of the forepart, merely covering the interlining.
=Quarter round=—trade term for buttons considerably rounded on the face, but not quite hemispherical.
=Quarter Scotch=—see Scotch edge.
=Queen’s mourning cloth=—a black-and-white or pepper-and-salt cassimere; so called from wide usage after death of Queen Victoria.
=Queue=—a pendant braid of hair on the back of the head, either natural hair or part of a wig; a pigtail.
=Quill=—(1) a fluted or cylindrical fold, as in a ruff or ruffle; (2) a large, stiff feather.
=Quilling=—an edge finish of narrow plaits or fluting resembling quills. See above.
=Quilt=—an outer bed covering.
=Quilt=—to stitch together two pieces of material, usually with a third or padding fabric between them and generally in some set or ornamental pattern.
=Quilted lining=—a layer of cotton batting faced on one or both sides with silk, satin or other cloth and sewed together or quilted in fancy patterns.
=Quilting=—a heavy, firmly-woven, cotton or linen cloth, similar to matelasse, employed for waistcoats, etc.
=Quirt=—a riding whip with a short wooden or stiff leather handle and a braided rawhide lash or lashes, about two feet long.
R
=Rabat=—a sort of bosom or dicky for hot weather wear under coat without waistcoat or collar, usually of silk, either plain or plaited; worn by Catholic clergymen.
=Rabbit=—lepus cuniculus, lepus sylvaticus, et al., the fur of which is an important item of hat manufacture and is also used for the cheaper fur garments.
=Rabbit foot=—used by actors and near-actors to blend grease paints, and by the superstitious as a fetich or omen of good luck.
=Raccoon=—an American nocturnal procyonoid carnivore of the genus Procyon, related to the bears and beloved by the negroes, the pelt of which is largely used in the manufacture of fur garments, overcoat linings, caps and lap robes.
=Racing cap=—a close-fitting hood or c. for automobiling, skating, etc.
=Racing coat=—same as Kennel c.
=Racing suit=—a leather, cloth or rubber coat and trousers, for automobile wear, so fashioned as to afford unusual freedom of movement and by means of straps or elastics at cuffs, neck, etc., to prevent ingress of wind, rain or dust; the outfit is completed by gauntlets, a racing hat or cap, and goggles.
=Rag shears=—same as Wool s.
=Rag, tag and bobtail=—(1) a fluttering rag or tatter, as from a garment; (2) odds and ends of merchandise; (3) ragged or worthless people.
=Ragged=—needing repairs.
=Raglan=—a loose overcoat, the sleeves of which continue over the shoulders up to the collar. Named after Lord Raglan, who devised a similar garment for the protection of his soldiers during the Crimean war, the idea being to increase their fighting capacity by the greater freedom of action afforded by the peculiar shoulder. The original coat also had sleeves with cuffs that could be turned down over the hands for warmth; gloves being quite unknown.
=Rah-rah=—a name given with little respect to the voyant affectations of college boys.
=Raider hat=—a sort of “rough rider” or sombrero h. (fr. Dr. Jameson’s “raiders”?)
=Railroad conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads; most commonly a short cutaway frock coat and flapt hip pockets, outside breast pocket and brass buttons, vest and trousers to match, all of dark blue cloth; on some roads the conductors wear double-breasted sack coats, and on others, single-breasted; usually completed with a semi-military cap with insignia.
=Railroad seam=—tailoring term, same as Cord s. (qv), but stitcht on each side of the join. See R. stitching.
=Railroad stitching=—in tailoring, a style of edge and seam finishing, consisting of a double row of stitches near the edge or join and a third row at a much greater distance—usually ¹⁄₁₆, ¼ ½ welt; so-called from having originally been a characteristic of r. uniforms.
=Rain clothes=—(=navy=) as worn by all enlisted men, consist of hat, coat and trousers of black painted waterproof material, as same pattern as Cape Ann suits. Certain petty officers are allowed to wear a long coat of similar material and style in lieu of the trousers and short coat.
=Raincloak=—a waterproof cloak.
=Raincoat=—a mackintosh or waterproof overgarment. See Cravenette.
=Raincoat pocket=—properly, a vertical p. finisht with a welt or fitted (qv), with an opening thru the lining inside, so that the hands may have access to the trousers or body coat pockets without unbuttoning the raincoat; also made regular horizontal style, opening thru, with outside flaps over the top. See Slasht p.
=Raincoating=—general name for overcoatings made rainproof by any of various processes, as “Cravenette”, “Cielette”, etc.; generally fine, close woven, round twilled, bare finisht worsteds, usually plain or with a pepper-and-salt effect, and sometimes with a patterned-back.
=Rainstick=—slang for umbrella.
=Raised cuff=—a welted effect on a coat sleeve.
=Raised seam=—see Swell s. and Welt s.
=Rake=—in certain German settlements, a comb.
=Rake-off=—graft: know what that is?
=Ramie=—trade term for the fiber of a nettle-like plant growing in Eastern Asia, of great length, strength, fineness, whiteness and silky luster, used extensivly for underwear, cordage, draperies, etc. Also called rhea, Chinese grass, nettle fiber, cambric, etc.
=Ramillies hat=—a 1770 military h., the back flap of which turned up sharply, and was not only higher than the crown but higher than the two front flaps, the middle of the front brim being out a bit. See also Cockt h. and Kevenhuller.
=Ramillies wig=—a w. with a long, gradually diminishing plaited tail tied with a large bow at the top and a smaller one at bottom, the hair bushing out over the ears; first worn in 1706 after battle of Ramillies. Also called R. tail.
=Rand=—an irregular shaped slip of leather inserted into a (shoe) heel to fill the gap between sole and lifts. Formerly the term was applied to seams.
=Random yarn=—weaving term for weft yarns wound around with shorter threads of contrasting color.
=Rapier=—a light, long, narrow sword with a sharp point, adapted for thrusting rather than cutting; a fencing sword; a dress sword.
=Rappee=—coarse-grained, dark, strong flavored snuff.
=Ratine=—an overcoating cloth similar to chinchilla but of finer curl.
=Rating badge=—(=navy=) specifically a spread eagle above a specialty mark and a class chevron, differentiated by regulation, worn by all petty officers of the starboard watch on the right sleeve and of the port watch on the left sleeve.
=Ratteen=—a general name of 17th and 18th centuries for coarse woolen cloths. Lighter fabrics were frequently called ratinets.
=Rattinet=—see Ratteen.
=Rattle=—a toy that some grown-ups seem still to need.
=Raveling=—a thread frayed from a fabric.
=Raw-edge=—a finish used principally on overcoats of heavy cloths like meltons and kerseys, the edges not being turned in, but sewed thru and thru, then evenly pared or trimmed with knife or shears.
=Raw-edge pocket=—a p. finisht to match the raw edges of garments so made.
=Raw seam=—(tailoring) the two parts are placed facing one way and overlapping the required distance and stitcht to correspond with the stitching of the edge. See R. edges.
=Raw silk=—s. as first reeled into skeins and hanks.
=Rawhide=—(1) untanned drest leather; (2) a whip made of raw cowhide.
=Raye=—French textil term for patterns of delicate stripes or narrow lines.
=Razor=—consult the colored gentleman who tidies up the office.
=Razor strop=—a flexible strap of leather or leather and canvas for stropping or sharpening razors and for walloping unruly sons.
=R. D.=—tailor’s term applied to a man who has been imperfectly trained. See Right dress.
=Readymade=—broadly, any garment or article of apparel ready-to-wear or use; more particularly applied to clothing, as distinguisht from tailoring to order.
=Readymader=—a word coined by the writer of this book, to describe a maker of or dealer in readymade clothing, and used by him in advertising and pickt up by others, of course.
=Rear admiral’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also see variants.
=Rear pockets=—hip p.; skirt p.
=Rebate=—a deduction, drawback, or discount; for expert definitions consult any railroad, oil company or trust.
=Rebato=—a falling band or collar turned over upon the shoulders.
=Receipt=—the most complacent part of a charge account.
=Recherche=—quite correct and elegant.
=Red gold=—g. alloyed with copper. Compare Green g. and White g.
=Red-herrings=—red side whiskers.
=Red tan=—bark tanned. See Tan.
=Redingote=—a double-breasted outside coat with long, plain skirts; a French corruption of the English riding coat.
=Reefer=—(1) a short, heavy overcoat or jacket usually of chinchilla, frieze or other heavy cloth, and double-breasted, commonly worn by seamen, cattlemen and others exposed to the weather; (2) a boys’ coat of similar style.
=Reefer=—a muffler.
=Reel silk=—technical term for long silk fibers of all classes.
=Reference sample=—a small swatch of goods for reference purposes, usually about 3 × 5 inches.
=Refine cloth=—an extra fine dress c. with a nap resembling broadcloth; used principally for livery; also called Dress refines.
=Refinish=—see below.
=Refinishing=—the process of steaming, ironing, etc., for restoring the characteristic mill gloss or finish to woolens, worsteds, etc., after shrinking or sponging.
=Refund=—to (take back goods sold and) give back the money paid.
=Regalia=—the distinctiv parts of attire, decorations and symbols of a society or order.
=Regimentals=—loosely, all articles of military apparel; properly, corps or mess uniforms.
=Regular=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit persons of normal build; standard sizes, from which longs, stouts, slims, etc., are variations.
=Regular cuffs=—see Round c.
=Regular made=—see Full r.
=Regular pocket=—a horizontal p. such as you will probably find in your sack coat if it is not a freak garment.
=Regular seam=—see Plain s.
=Regular twist=—yarns twisted to the right. (Woolen trade.) See Reverse t.
=Regulations=—rules of dress prescribed by army, navy and other bureaus.
=Re-heel=—to put new soles onto footwear, as shoes, hosiery, etc.
=Re-sole=—to put new soles on shoes, boots, etc.; also stockings.
=Reindeer=—(1) a fur, more or less authentic, used in glove making; (2) leather ditto.