Part 7
=Crow’s-foot tack stitch=—in tailoring, an ornamental tack for ends of pockets, vents or inverted plaits. The tack is first laid out in a triangle and the threads laid in from base to apex-sides, alternately from one side and then the other, until the threads meet at the base. This is the most common form; there are variations, not differing greatly in effect or method.
=Crow’s-foot=—a three-pointed embroidery stitch sometimes used in finishing pockets. See above.
=Crow’s-toe=—same as Crow’s-foot.
=Cruiser=—a waterproof moccasin boot with a sewed-on sole and a medium heel, both studded with small hob nails.
=Crush hat=—the collapsible opera h.
=Crush opera=—same as O. hat.
=Crusher=—a soft felt hat, not hurt if stuft into a bag; much loved of travelers.
=Crutch=—the crotch or fork; (properly crotch).
=Crutch=—a walking prop for cripples and invalids.
=Ct.=—abbreviation for carat.
=Cue=—see Queue.
=Cuff box=—a receptacle for cuffs; usually of leather.
=Cuff button=—wrist jewelry.
=Cuff links=—cuff buttons. See Links.
=Cuffs=—(=1=) ornamental finishing to coat sleeves; (=2=) separate or attacht bands as a finishing for shirt sleeves.
=Cuirass=—defensiv armor covering the entire upper part of the body.
=Culet=—see Collet point.
=Cummerbund=—a broad, soft sash.
=Cup button=—bowl shape.
=Curl=—a cute little kink.
=Curled yarn=—weft y. commonly composed of two or three threads of contrasting colors, characterized by loops or curls at intervals, variously effected.
=Curling=—a process in hat manufacture whereby brims are shaped to conform exactly to a model.
=Curling iron=—a machine that had better be left altogether to women, who have hair to burn.
=Currier=—one who curries or dresses leather.
=Curtain=—the waist lining of trousers.
=Custom made=—made in the mode; to order and to measure.
=Custom tailor=—one who makes clothes to order only. Compare Merchant t.
=Customer=—an individual highly prized by the proprietor and patronized by the salesperson; sometimes called an “Indian”.
=Customer’s labels=—in the readymade clothing trade (wholesale) a name given to woven silk labels, bearing retailer’s names, sewed into neck of coats.
=Customs inspector’s uniform=—coat, vest, trousers and cap of dark blue cloth, the coat 4-button double-breasted in winter with 2 lower pockets with flaps, 1 outside welted breast and 1 inside breast pocket; in summer to be 4 buttons, single-breasted, square cut. Inspectors of passenger’s baggage wear red cap instead of blue. Insignia indicating rank worn on front of cap. All coat and vest buttons of flat bone, to be covered with shells when on duty.
=Cut=—a coil of two hanks of yarn.
=Cut goods=—trade term for hosiery knitted on a round knitting machine, the tubular, unshaped product being cut into required lengths, then footed, shaped, etc., by cutting out and adding other pieces as needed; the cheapest process of manufacture.
=Cut mark=—a mark fixt on the warp during dressing or beaming, to indicate a certain length and serve as a point for separating two adjoining pieces of cloth when woven.
=Cut-off cuff=—a sewed on or special c.
=Cut-off vamp=—same as Short v.
=Cut pile=—having a pile made by cutting the loops of the warp or floats of the filling on certain fabrics, as velvet, plush, etc.
=Cut velvet=—see Velvet.
=Cut wig=—see Wig.
=Cutaway frock coat=—a single-breasted f. c. with the skirts cut in a slanting line from a point near the waist. See Frock c. Occasionally—and whimsically—this c. is made double-breasted, but such an order is the despair of the tailor because of the difficulty of obtaining a smart appearance.
=Cutlas=—a heavy, curved short sword with one cutting edge and a bowl-shaped guard, used mostly in hand-to-hand naval engagements; latterly being discontinued.
=Cutler=—a dealer in knives, scissors, razors, table cutlery, surgical instruments, etc.; a manufacturer or repairer of same.
=Cutlery=—cutting instruments collectivly.
=Cuts=—trade term for less than a bolt or full piece of goods; short lengths.
=Cutter=—(1) in tailoring, the man who takes the measurements and drafts and cuts the paper patterns, which, in the larger establishment are turned over to “choppers” (qv) who “make the lay” on the cloth and cut the cloth; (2) in ready-to-wear clothing manufacturing the “cutter” is the man who lays out the pattern on the cloth and cuts the cloth, either by shears, electric cutting machine or long knife—corresponding to the “chopper” of the merchant tailor; (3) in shoe manufacturing, one who lays the patterns on the leather and cuts therefrom the vamps or other parts of a shoe.
=Cutters-up=—manufacturers of various articles of apparel. See Cutting-up trade.
=Cutting knife=—a long, tapering k. (24 to 30 in. blade) working in a groove or slot, used for cutting cloth, linings, etc., in large shops. As many as 75 layers of cloth may be cut at one stroke.
=Cutting machine=—an electrically operated m. for cutting several thicknesses of cloth at one operation, moved about by hand and controlled at will of the operator. There are two principal styles (1) a straight knife 5 to 6 in. long, and (2) a circular or wheel knife 3½ to 4½ in. in diameter, which will cut thru about 30 layers of heavy cloth and about 45 of light cloth; the straight knife will cut several more layers.
=Cutting-up trade=—indicativ of the trades that buy yard goods for purposes of manufacturing, as clothiers, tailors, shirt makers, etc., as distinguished from the jobbing trade.
=Cutty=—a short-stemmed pipe.
D
=Dalmatic=—a wide sleeved tunic reaching to the knees, worn over the alb or cassock at mass and communion by deacons; also a medieval state or coronation robe. As an ecclesiastical vestment it was originally white with wide perpendicular stripes of purple; as now worn it follows the color of the day with stripes of embroidery.
=Damascened=—see Damascus blade and Jowhir.
=Damascus blade=—general term for swords famed for the quality and temper of the metal as well as the beauty of the jowhir or watering of the blades.
=Damask=—a twill woven fabric of linen, cotton, silk, etc., with loom-figured all-over patterns.
=Damask=—steel workt in the Damascus style, showing the wavy lines of the different metals; also called watered and twisted.
=Dame fashion=—a fetich.
=Damier=—large square checks.
=Dancing clog=—a laced leather low shoe with wooden sole (very noisy).
=Dancing pump=—a low-heeled, low shoe with short vamps, with or without ornamental bow at instep.
=Dandified=—dandyish; foppish.
=Dandy=—a beau; not quite a dude.
=Dandy=—something out of the common; first-class.
=Dandy trap=—a loose stone, which slips when trodden on, and, in wet weather, throws up the mud under it, to the great detriment of the clothes of the victim.
=Darbies=—cant for irons or handcuffs.
=Darning stitch=—a s. peculiar to darning or embroidery.
=Dart=—a place in a garment from which a tapering piece or V has been cut to make it fit the figure, as at the waist. Same as fish.
=Dauber=—a small brush or other arrangement for applying blacking or polish to shoes, incidentally soiling the hands.
=Day dress=—generally, single and double-breasted frock coats, as contrasted with swallowtails and Tuxedos for evening dress and sack coats for day business and lounge wear.
=De Joinville=—a neck dressing, a plain, flat strip of satin or silk which must be folded before it is put on, and is passed thru a flat (gold) clasp or “scarf ring”, having a hinge at one side and a spike or projection on the inner side of the rear part for engaging and keeping in place the adjusted tie; sometimes this clasp is made with a hinged pin; also the scarf is frequently tied as an ascot, puff, once-over, waterfall, etc.
=Dead gold=—unburnisht.
=Dead hairs=—see Kemp.
=Dead horse=—(nautical commerce) wages paid before they are earned.
=Dead wool=—fleece taken from pelts of sheep that have died. Same as Kemp.
=Debeige=—see Beige.
=Decoration=—trade term for the white or bright-colored threads used to lighten up worsted and other otherwise plainish fabrics; usually employed when the “decoration” is of silk or mercerized threads.
=De soy=—see Sergedusoy.
=Deep mourning=—lusterless black outer garments with crepe and no social intercourse or amusements.
=Deep scye=—a variety of armhole not fitting up close under the arm, as is usual, but where the front and back parts of the coat are cut away in a descending curve to a point a little above the waist, affecting, of course, the style of sleeve also.
=Degage=—easy; unconventional; neglige.
=Delaine=—a name given to combing wools. See Wool.
=Delivery=—getting goods to the purchaser; usually behind promised time.
=Delivery boy=—a pert young imp, hired, in the opinion of customers, to talk back to them.
=Deltoid muscle=—the pons asinorum of tailoring.
=Demi-toilette=—day dress.
=Demi-vest=—see Vest-front.
=Denim=—a heavy, twilled cotton fabric, usually woven with plain colored warp threads, as blue, gray, brown, etc., with white weft; used for overalls, jumpers, etc. Dungaree.
=Denmark satin=—a coarse, worsted fabric, woven with smooth, satin twilled surface; a variety of lasting cloth.
=Dent’s=—trade diminutiv for the general line of gloves made by Dent, Allcroft & Co., London.
=Dental floss=—a lightly twisted antiseptic heavy silk yarn used for cleansing between the teeth.
=Dental powder=—“tooth powder”. See Dentifrice.
=Dentifrice=—any substance or preparation used in cleansing the teeth.
=Dentist’s coat=—a short working jacket of heavy drill or duck, not unlike barber’s c., barkeeper’s c., waiter’s c., etc.
=Department store=—the apotheosis of the junk shop.
=Depilatory=—a chemical preparation for removing hair from face or other parts of the body.
=Deposit=—a tailor’s insurance against loss if you fail to call for your suit.
=Derby jacket=—same as D. sack.
=Derby sack=—a single-breasted s. coat with the regular front, with a short underarm cut terminating in a waistline extending back to the side seam, meeting a body-shaped back part which has a center vent reaching to the made waistline, and finisht with inverted (side) plaits also reaching to the waistline.
=Deshabille=—undress.
=Designer=—one who originates and plans styles for manufacturing; in wholesale clothing manufacturing one who also cuts the (first) paper patterns, which are afterward turned over to an assistant to grade into sizes.
=Detroit cap=—a c., usually of fur, having a round crown, a rolling band highest at the back and sloping to the front, meeting a visor that may be rolled up or down.
=Devil=—a machine employed in hat manufacturing for thoroly mixing furs after carroting.
=Devil=—(woolen manufacture) see Willowing machine.
=Devil’s receptacles=—a nickname given to the wide, long, trailing, slasht sleeves worn by the gay bucks of the 14th century.
=Devon=—a heavy, close-milled overcoat cloth, in character between melton and kersey; one of the old names for a variety of kersey.
=Dew retting=—the decomposition of flax by dew. See Retting.
=Dhotee=—an East Indian concession to modesty. See Waistcloth.
=Diagonal=—general term for worsted fabrics having a diagonal twill produced by raising the warp threads progressivly, from left to right, or right to left, usually at an angle of 45°, in groups of 2, 3, 4, etc., and filling in the weft threads to make them stand out in ridges.
=Diapers=—our first garments.
=Dice=—a square, woven pattern.
=Dicer=—a silk hat.
=Dicky=—originally (about 1809) a stiff, standing collar; latterly a separate shirt bosom, with collar band, worn in place of shirt by the impecunious. (Also Dickey).
=Didies=—see Diapers.
=Digitalia=—the fingered glove of the ancient Romans. See Chirothecae.
=Dimity=—a fine cotton fabric having a stripe or figure raised on the face and deprest on the back.
=Dining jacket=—see Dinner coat.
=Dink=—to dress or bedeck. (Scotch).
=Dinky=—absurdly small, skimpy or insufficient.
=Dinner jacket=—an informal dress coat without tails, somewhat like a sack coat, for dinner wear, men’s evening parties, but not where ladies are present, as at balls, operas, etc. Also called Cowes coat and Tuxedo coat.
=Dip=—in tailoring, a downward inclination of the waist line of a frock coat or the bottom line of a sack coat.
=Dip-front=—see Dip.
=Diplomatic uniform=—the court dress of American ministers abroad, while officially “the ordinary dress of an American citizen” is, by official approval, a plain dress coat and waistcoat, knee breeches, black silk stockings and low shoes. This simplicity of attire, contrasted with oriental sumptuousness and European splendor makes our ambassadors and ministers peculiarly conspicuous.
=Dirk=—(1) a Scotch dagger generally without chape or guard; (2) a midshipman’s side arm, either straight or curved. (British navy.)
=Dirk knife=—a clasp k. with a large dirk shaped blade.
=Discharge printing=—a method of producing patterns in textil fabrics by dyeing in the piece of a solid color and printing the designs with a bleaching agent. Compare Batik, Extracted, Resist dyeing, Tied-and-dried, etc.
=Discount=—a rebate for prompt pay, or for imperfections, or out of courtesy (as to clergymen), or delusivly as in most advertisements.
=Display=—(1) merchandise appropriately arranged for public view; (2) personal ostentation.
=Distaff=—a rod or staff for holding a quantity of wool or flax in hand spinning; usually held under the left arm.
=Distingue=—very smart; elegant.
=Dittis=—a fabric formerly made in Manchester, used for (and whence the name of) Ditty bags (qv).
=Ditty bag=—(nautical) a small bag to hold sewing gear, shaving tackle, etc.; a sailor’s “housewife”.
=Ditty box=—a small box for holding a sailor’s thread, needles, brushes, combs, etc.
=Diver’s helmet=—see Diving dress.
=Diving dress=—a waterproof, air-tight garment, like a combined blouse and trousers, with helmet, the whole hermetically sealed, heavily weighted, and supplied thru pipes with air for the wearer to breathe.
=Diving suit=—see D. dress.
=Division list=—a proportionate scale of selling prices, used in the clothing trade, showing the relativ prices of suits, coats, trousers, vests and combinations thereof.
=Division square=—a tailor’s s. marked with the various fractional computations commonly required in sub-dividing the taken measures when drafting.
=Dobbie=—that part of a loom that raises and lowers the harness frames. Also called Witch. (=Dobby=).
=Doctor’s cap=—(scholastic) usually of black velvet, with gold tassel. See Mortarboard c.
=Doctor’s gown=—(scholastic) a loose flowing g., usually of silk, with round, open sleeves barred with black velvet and faced down front with same; or the velvet may correspond in color with the binding or edging of hood.
=Doctored=—(1) manipulated; (2) adulterated.
=Doeskin=—a high grade woolen suiting, and trousering material, close woven, fine twilled, fulled to a very considerable degree and finisht as required, usually (1) dry, (2) doeskin, (3) melton or (4) worsted, being respectivly (1) sheared of all nap, baring the weave, (2) smooth nap, weave nearly concealed, (3) a close standing nap, (4) smooth, hard and glossy; there are also other finishes.
=Doeskin=—a fine quality of jean (qv) closely twilled and with a wool filling.
=Doeskin finish=—see Doeskin and Dress faced.
=Dog=—vernacular for affected or redundant finery or style; to put on airs; vulgar ostentation.
=Dog-rabbitting=—see Piecing-out.
=Dogskin=—a stout, dry, inelastic glove leather made from kyudles or sheep in imitation of it.
=Dolman=—a sort of cape or cloak with wide open sleeves; also the uniform jacket of a hussar, worn like a cape, with the sleeves hanging loose.
=Dom Pedro=—a heavy leather brogan.
=Domestic=—made here; not imported—for which thanks often should be given.
=Domestic finish=—laundry term for linen finisht without gloss and with but little bluing.
=Domestics=—cotton goods of American manufacture as distinguisht from imported goods. Always used in the plural.
=Domet=—a loosely woven, napt, all-cotton, flannel, originally woven with a woolen weft; largely used for neglige shirts, night robes, children’s wear, etc. See Outing cloth.
=Domino=—(1) a mask or half mask worn at masquerades; (2) an adjustable robe or hood worn at masquerades; (3) a loose flowing hooded garment of ecclesiastical wear.
=Donegal tweed=—strictly that hand-scoured, homespun tweed made wholly in the county of Donegal, Ireland, on the hand looms of the peasantry; more loosely tweeds made of Yorkshire yarns woven, dyed and finisht in Donegal; falsely, any fabric in imitation thereof.
=Doorman’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress 1.
=Dornex=—a heavy 17th century coarse linen, used for servants’ clothing.
=D’Orsay=—trade term for a certain well-rounded effect in the curl of a hat brim. Compare Pencil curl and Anglesea.
=Double-and-twist=—(1) trade term for weaving yarns doubled and twisted in combinations of two or more colors; (2) fabrics woven from such yarns—Bannockburns and Drummond worsteds, being examples.
=Double-breasted=—loosely, any coat, waistcoat, undershirt or other garment having a double thickness in the front with a double row of buttons and buttonholes or other means of fastening.
=Double-breasted cutaway=—a variation of the single-breasted frock, known about 1840, and but infrequently seen since, despite attempts to revive it. See Cutaway frock coat.
=Double-breasted reefer=—same as D.-b. sack coat.
=Double-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.
=Double cloth=—general term for any fabric composed of two single textures woven and joined at one operation, the conjunction being effected by interlacing part of the warp threads of one texture with those of the opposit texture, as (1) a fabric with two warp surfaces and one of weft in the center; (2) a fabric with two weft surfaces and one of warp in the center; (3) a fabric with two distinct series of warps and wefts, each woven separately, but united at regular intervals to each other during the course of weaving. Unless the object is to produce effects not possible with single cloths the doubling is usually for the purpose of giving weight and body without the expense of weaving the face pattern thru and thru. Also called Backt-c., Frenchback, etc.
=Double collar=—a folded c. (qv).
=Double corkscrew=—see Chain-weave serge.
=Double crepe=—a very crisp, crinkly black silk c. (qv) used for deep mournings. Compare Single c.
=Double cuff=—a c. that is folded and turned back on itself or onto the sleeve. Compare Single c., Fold-back c.
=Double dyed=—dyed twice over; thoroly impregnated; said also of mixt goods dyed once in a cotton dye and once in a wool dye, or otherwise, as the case may be.
=Double faced=—fabrics having a pattern on each side.
=Double knit=—knitted with a double stitch, giving a double thickness to the fabric.
=Double milled=—sheared twice.
=Double pick=—two filling threads run together into the same shed of the warp.
=Double pile=—any fabric with pile or heavy nap on two sides, as double plush, double-faced canton flannel, etc.
=Double satin de Lyon=—a s. having both surfaces glossy.
=Double sole=—trade term for hosiery made with a s. much heavier than the body of the stocking. See Spliced heel.
=Double soled=—term for shoes made with extra thick soles.
=Double-stitcht=—an edge or seam finish obtained by stitching twice in parallel rows of stated width, as “¼ in. d. s.”. See “Single s.”.
=Double-stitcht seam=—same as cord s. (qv) but stitcht twice and with a larger underlay or outlet for the second row of stitching. Also called Lap s.
=Double-width=—generally, all fabrics ranging from 48 to 60 in. wide and folded lengthwise before being rolled into bolts; originally goods were “single width” (27 to 36 in.) and many are still so woven, fine trousering and shirtings particularly; strictly, the proper term is “quarter”, as four-quarter (⁴⁄₄) for 36 in.; six-quarter (⁶⁄₄) for 54 in., etc.
=Double work=—knitting term for the use of two threads together instead of one, and for the fancy effects so produced.
=Doublet=—a close-fitting outer body garment with sleeves and sometimes with short skirts and belted at the waist, worn from 15th to 17th centuries, usually with hose.
=Doupe=—gauze weaving.
=Dowdy=—see Slob.
=Dowlas=—originally, a strong, plain woven linen fabric used for working blouses, etc.; latterly, a sort of stout calico.
=Down at the heels=—poverty; destitution; general seediness; needing clothes.
=Downright=—see Wool.
=Drafting cape=—see Measuring c. and Beatty c.
=Drap=—French word for cloth; seldom applied to cotton fabrics.
=Drap d’alma=—a fine, close, flat ribbed twilled fabric of wool or silk and wool, finisht on but one side.
=Drap d’ete=—a fine double warp worsted fabric with fine lengthwise cords or ridges on the face, and a smooth back, used for dress and clerical wear, summer coats, etc.
=Drape=—loosely, any smooth-faced fine cloth for dress wear; crepe (qv).
=Draper=—a dealer in cloths; also a clothier, haberdasher or dry goods merchant.
=Draw string=—a tightening tape or s. working thru a gathered hem, or eyelets.
=Drawer supports=—any device attacht to trousers (or to suspenders) for the purpose of holding up the nether undergarments.
=Drawers=—nether undergarments.
=Drawing=—a process of woolen manufacture by which the combed fleece assumes a yarn or thread-like appearance; roving.
=Drawing stitch=—a method of making an edge-to-edge join or a seam without a lap, a s. being taken up thru one side, then drawn over and down under and up thru the other side, and so on; usually employed joining collars to coats.
=Drawn in=—see Hold in.
=Dreadnought=—see Fearnought.
=Drech=—trash; trashy. (German.)
=Dress=—general term for garments and articles of apparel and the science and manner of wearing them; more particularly one’s outer attire.
=Dress=—tailor’s term, indicating the manner in which a man disposes himself in his trousers, necessitating a certain difference in the crotch-fulness of one trousers leg, as “right d.” or “left d.”
=Dress=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn upon the reception of various prescribed officers of the government, governors of states and territories, American ambassadors, ministers, etc.; on visits in part to commanding officers; on Sunday morning inspections. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—frock coat, undress trousers, (white may be prescribed) cockt hat, epaulets, sword and undress belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting blue cap for cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets; for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, and for stewards and officers’ cooks; blue dress: blue cloth coat and blue cloth trousers, blue cap, white shirt, white collar and cuffs, black cravat; white dress: white coat, white trousers, white cap, white shirt, white collar, black cravat. For bandsmen; blue dress: full dress coat, blue trousers, helmet, white standing collar, belt, gloves (and for bandmaster, a sword); white dress: same as blue dress but with white trousers. For all other enlisted men; blue dress: blue overshirt, blue cloth trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); white dress: dress jumper, white dress trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (=Revenue cutter service=) worn by officers performing any special duty with enlisted men under arms away from the vessel, and when calling officially upon officers other than commanders of vessels of war or military posts; consists of frock coat, white or blue trousers, cap, shoulder straps, sword and black leather belt over the coat which is worn buttoned.
=Dress belt=—(=army=) see Army b.
=Dress board=—(=navy=) a bulletin b. on which the prescribed dress or uniform of the day to be worn by the crew is described by executiv officer’s orders.
=Dress breeches=—(=army=) for all officers, of same material and with same stripes as d. trousers, cut in the prescribed pattern and fastened from the knee down with dark bone buttons or with lacings. See also Service b.
=Dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, same as Full dress c. (qv) except with certain differences of trimming and insignia. For enlisted men: of dark blue cloth of same style as prescribed for officers, bearing a stripe of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service, with appropriate rating insignia.
=Dress coat=—see Evening dress.
=Dress coat=—(=army=) a sack c. of dark blue cloth or serge. For general officers: double-breasted with high rolling collar and 2 rows of gilt buttons groupt according to rank, 3 buttons on cuff; skirt to extend one-third of distance to knee, with 4 inch slit at hip for saber; all pockets inside. For all other officers: single-breasted with standing collar, c. closing with flap containing concealed fastenings, c. cut form fitting with saber slit and side vents and trimmed around bottom, front edges, collar and vents with 1¼ in. flat black mohair braid; shoulder and collar ornaments per regulations. For enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut with a straight front, fastened with 6 buttons down the front; standing collar; shoulder loops of same goods let in at shoulder seam and fastened to collar with small button; 3 buttons on cuffs; collar, shoulder loops and cuffs piped with cord-edge braid of the color of corps, department or arm of service.
=Dress derby=—a d.-shaped hat, covered with gros-grain or other plain silk; for wear with dinner jacket. Also called Tuxedo hat.