Part 11
=Full dress frock coat=—(=revenue cutter service=) for all commissioned officers: of dark navy-blue cloth, double-breasted, buttoning to the neck, rolling collar, 2 rows of service buttons on breast, 9 each side, spaced equidistant, full skirts extending nearly to the knee, trimmings, attachments, etc., as prescribed.
=Full dress saber belt=—see Saber b.
=Full dress shirt=—see Evening d. s.
=Full dress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the band, of 1½ in. marine corps gold lace with a ³⁄₁₆ in. stripe of scarlet silk thru the center, white leather lining, showing edges, ⅛ in. Slings of same material and design.
=Full dress trousers=—see Evening d. t.
=Full dress trousers=—(=army=) for general officers, of dark blue cloth with 2 stripes of gold wire lace mounted on velvet, of the color of coat collar, along outer seams; for chief of engineers, the interval between the stripes of scarlet velvet; for officers of staff corps and departments (except engineers) 1 stripe of gold lace; for officers of engineer corps, stripes of scarlet cloth with white piping; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of sky-blue cloth with 1½ in. stripes, welted at the edges, of the colors of the facings of their respective corps or arms, except that for infantry the stripes are white; for chaplains, of plain black or dark blue cloth, without stripe, welt or cord.
=Full dress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth with a stripe of gold lace covering the outseam of each leg.
=Full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all staff officers, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. black mohair braid. For line officers, same as Special f. d. For non-commissioned officers, of sky-blue kersey, outseams finisht with 1 in. stripe of welted edge scarlet cloth. For privates, the same without the scarlet stripes. For drummers and trumpeters, the same except that the outseams have a ³⁄₁₆ in. scarlet welt; for leader of the band, same as prescribed for line officer’s special f. d. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for privates, except: with 2½ in. stripes of scarlet cloth down outer seams, stitcht on the outer edges, showing ¼ in. of light blue between. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers.
=Full dress uniforms=—(=army, navy, marine corps, etc.=) see Full d., et var.
=Full dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.
=Full fashioned=—general term for hosiery, etc., produced on automatic knitting machines, made in flat strips or patterns and then joined, either by machine or by hand. See F. regular.
=Full feather=—in full dress; attired in one’s best clothes.
=Full fig=—(nautical) full dress.
=Full frock=—the double-breasted frock coat, or “Prince Albert”.
=Full-headed=—tailoring term, meaning having fine plaits or puckers of material in the upper part, as a sleeve; not skimpt; more liberal than usual; specially, a joining of sleeve and shoulder so that top of sleeve head shows up full. See Sleeve head.
=Full peg=—tailoring term for extra baggy trousers, commonly predicativ of college fledglings. See P. top and Half p.
=Full regular=—trade term for hosiery and underwear in which the seams are made by hand knitting instead of by machine; the most expensiv grade.
=Full Scotch=—see Scotch edge.
=Full skeleton=—tailoring term for coats made without lining. Compare Half s.
=Full uniform=—the complement of costume, ornaments, arms, etc., prescribed for officers and men in the military and naval service on inspection, parade and ceremonial occasions. See Full dress, Special full dress, etc.
=Full vamp=—shoemaking term for vamps where the toes are not cut away under the tips. See Whole v., et var.
=Fulled=—made thicker and more compact by shrinking.
=Fuller’s earth=—a species of non-plastic clay used as an absorbent of grease and oil and as a cleansing agent; also used in fulling cloth.
=Fulling=—the process of cleansing and condensing (or shrinking) woolen and worsted goods to render them stronger and firmer. See encyclopedia.
=Fulling gum=—a substance used for preparing warps for weaving.
=Fur beaver=—a long-napt cloth imitating fur.
=Fur felt=—hatter’s term for f. (and hats thereof) made from the fur of nutria, beaver, coney or other fur-bearing animals.
=Fur seal=—the “sealskin de luxe”, being of much finer texture than wool s. and correspondingly more valuable. Found in Alaska, Shetland Islands, Lobos Island, etc., the former being of the most uniform excellence. The hide of this variety is seldom, if ever, used for leather.
=Furbelow=—(1) a plaited or puckered flounce; (2) broadly, redundant or superfluos finery or ornament.
=Furrier=—(1) a dealer in or maker of fur goods and garments; (2) a fur dresser.
=Furrier’s knife=—a flat piece of steel, having the general outlines of a rhomb, one edge of which is sharpened, the opposite edge or top being concaved to form a handle.
=Furs=—familiar term for fur outergarments.
=Fuscous=—dusky; grayish brown, tawny.
=Fussy=—fancy, effeminate, meretricious.
=Fustian=—(1) formerly a kind of stout cloth made of cotton and flax; (2) now a coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric; (3) corduroy and similar fabrics are also so-called.
G
=G-string=—an aboriginal modesty-bit.
=Gabardine=—a cloak-like garment worn by Russian Jews; usually made of black cloth, silk or moire; it is buttoned down front to waist, whence it hangs to the ankles.
=Gabardine=—a close-woven, fine twilled waterproof cotton cloth for sporting and motor wear. Probably a blind name.
=Gag=—investiture for the mouth, of any sufficient model, style, or material, worn at discretion when the alternativ might be hurtful, usually applied by burglars who object to raucous cacophony.
=Gaiter=—(1) a cloth or leather covering for the leg or ankle; a spatterdash or overgaiter; (2) a shoe without opening, but elastic gores at the sides. See Congress g.
=Gaiter bottoms=—tailoring term for trousers cut snug at the ankle and extending out covering the instep with strap fastening beneath the foot.
=Gaiter trousers=—just described (vs).
=Galashiels=—a town in Scotland famous for its tweeds known by that name.
=Galatea=—(1) a striped worsted suiting faintly suggestiv of Bedford cord; (2) a stout striped cotton fabric, used for shirts, pinafores, etc.
=Gallant=—(1) a (good or bad) man who pays court or markt attention to women; (2) a beau; (3) a man of showy or ostentatious attire.
=Galligaskins=—(1) wide hose or trousers formerly worn by seamen; (2) leather leggings. See Venetians.
=Galloon=—general term for various kinds of worsted, silk or tinsel lace or decorativ braid used on uniforms, etc.
=Galloon-gallant=—contemptuous for an over-decorated fop.
=Galloway=—a breed of cattle raised in Scotland, noted for the softness and excellence of their glossy black hair; the skins are used for fur coats, lap robes, etc.
=Gallows=—an early name for what we now call suspenders, modernly corrupted to “galluses”.
=Galluses=—suspenders. See Gallows.
=Gambados=—boot-like leathers, resembling leggings or spatterdashes, attacht to a saddle, protecting the feet and serving as stirrups.
=Gambeson=—an old-time (’way back) coat of leather or cloth, stuft and quilted, worn defensivly.
=Gambroon=—a twilled cloth of worsted-and-cotton or linen-and-cotton, used for summer trousers; also a twilled linen lining material.
=Game bag=—similar to an ammunition b., but with ventilating holes.
=Gams=—slang for legs, and by extension, trousers.
=Gants=—French for gloves.
=Gape=—a yawning or divergence, as of coat tails spreading apart, or of coat collar standing out and away from the neck.
=Garb=—one’s dress in its entirety; costume; style or peculiarity of apparel, as clerical g.
=G. A. R. uniform=—a plain blue sack suit, the coat either single or double-breasted, with brass buttons, and commonly a black slouch hat, with cord and tassels and gilt badge.
=Garibaldi=—a loose blouse waist resembling those worn by the soldiers of Garibaldi, the Italian patriot.
=Garmenture=—a generic name for dress.
=Garner’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine shirting percales manufactured by Garner & Co., Reading, Pa., and Pleasant Valley, N.Y.
=Garnetted=—trade term for fabrics containing garnetted or made over carded yarns. Garnetted worsteds, for illustration, are not entitled to the designation “pure worsted”. See Garnetting.
=Garnetting=—the process of separating clippings, waste, etc., into new spinning fibers, resulting in carded yarns, usually mixt with good fibers, as garnetted worsted with wool, etc.
=Garrison pocket=—the right hip p.
=Garrison shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of russet calf, Blucher style.
=Garter ring=—a gold finger r. made in imitation of a strap buckled in a circle.
=Garter webbing=—a narrow, elastic textil band or ribbon, having strips of India rubber as part of its warp; elastic w. (qv).
=Garters=—commonly, elastic bands capable of being elongated and adjusted ad libitum, worn around the lower extremities of one’s locomotiv members for maintaining the proper position and required altitude for the habiliments of the tibia.
=Garters=—nautical slang for leg irons.
=Gas iron=—a tailor’s smoothing or pressing i., heated by internal gas jets.
=Gasoline iron=—a tailor’s i. heated within by means of a gasoline flame, the fluid being contained in a tank affixt to the outside.
=Gassing=—a finishing process in cotton cloth manufacturing; removing the fuzz by singeing.
=Gauche=—in ill taste, awkward.
=Gauntlet=—a glove with wide cuffs attacht, usually stiff, covering the coat sleeves, to protect from dust and wind in driving; originally a mailed covering for the hand and wrist, often with offensiv armor.
=Gauze=—any light open-woven cotton, silk or wool material.
=Gauze weaving=—a method in which the warp threads are more or less intertwined among themselves, achieving light, open texturs and many fanciful or lacy combinations; if plain it is usually called leno.
=Gem=—any precious stone, particularly when cut and set ready for wearing.
=Gem peg=—a rest for the g. stick (qv) in g. cutting.
=Gem stick=—a rod, on the end of which a g. is cemented whilst being cut.
=Gem stone=—general term given to minerals suitable for cutting, as a g.
=Gemel ring=—a r. formed of 2 or more rings; a puzzle r.
=Genapping=—a process in woolen manufacture by which the free fuzz or loose fiber known as “nap” is removed from woolen yarn by singeing to make it suitable for certain kinds of cloth.
=General’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.
=Geneva gown=—a clergyman’s full g. of black silk or wool stuff, made with an inner cassock-front, meeting in a sort of military collar, with white banks at the neck, and buttoning all the way down the front.
=Genoese velvet=—a rich patterned silk v., sometimes interwoven with gold thread.
=Gent=—not a gentleman.
=Gent’s furnisher=—the vulgar general title of a very respectable business.
=Genteel=—les bourgeois gentilhommes.
=German sock=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, with buckled tops or with canvas legging tops reaching to the knee, for wear with arctics or heavy shoes.
=Get up=—a scheme of costume; the way you are drest.
=Gew-gaw=—any flashy, useless ornament.
=Ghaba=—a long, loose flowing coatlike garment worn by the merchant class in Persia; is double-breasted, lapping over and fastening with 2 buttons, while, about the waist, a shawl is wound several times, knotted and the ends tuckt out of sight.
=Gift-of-gab=—an eccentricity of salesmen.
=Gig=—a machine for raising a nap on cloth by passing it over rotating cylinders armed with teasels. Compare Slubbing machine.
=Gigging=—giving a nap to woolen cloths, such as broadcloths, beaver, chinchilla, melton, etc.
=Giller=—a horsehair fishing line.
=Gilling=—a step in the process of combing worsted yarns; bringing the fibers level and parallel into a uniform strand.
=Gilt button=—brass.
=Gimmal ring=—see Gemel r.
=Gimp buttonhole=—made as described under b. making, but employing very coarse silk twist, and taking long, regular stitches over a heavy cord. Contrast Satin b. h.
=Gingerbread=—over-fancy, glaring, loud, fussy, insubstantial.
=Gingham=—a plain-woven reversible cotton fabric, loom-patterned in simple checks, stripes and plaids.
=Gingham=—vernacular for a large family umbrella.
=Ginning=—a step in the process of preparing cotton for weaving; separating, mechanically, the seeds from the fiber.
=Girdle=—the circumferential rim of a diamond or other precious stone; the line of juncture of the upper and lower pyramids. See Brilliant cutting.
=Glace=—glove trade term, meaning polisht or drest kid (or other) leather.
=Glad rags=—evening dress clothes; frock coats; new or good clothes, generally.
=Glasses=—generality for eye g. or spectacles.
=Glaze=—a sizing or high finish applied to certain fabrics, as sleeve linings, hat trimmings, cheap underwear trimmings, etc. See Glazing, Sizing and Washable.
=Glazed kid=—trade term for kid leather finisht with a high polish, in contradistinction to dull k., which has a flat or dull appearance. See Chrome k.
=Glazing=—a glossing or calendering process effected by steam-heated steel rollers.
=Glengarry=—a cape overcoat; now known as Inverness (qv).
=Glengarry=—a Scotch cap.
=Glims=—cant for spectacles. (British).
=Gloria=—a twill woven silk and wool fabric, used largely for umbrellas.
=Gloss finish=—see High polish.
=Glove=—a leather or textil covering for the hands, having separate stalls for each finger. Anciently gloves possest considerable significance as pledges of troth and confidence, gages of battle, emblems of office, etc.—which is interesting to the searcher for curiosa, but too lengthy for this short-order book.
=Glove=—a wooden scraper, fastened to the workman’s hands, used in felting hats.
=Glove box=—a container for gloves.
=Glove kid=—a term used mostly by shoemakers to designate a fine, soft leather employed for the tops of fine shoes.
=Glove of mail=—a mailed gauntlet.
=Glove stretcher=—a device for stretching or “easing” gloves.
=Glove tree=—a wooden form in the shape of a hand for keeping gloves in condition.
=Gloversville=—a town in New York where nearly all the gloves made in this country are produced.
=Goat=—an omnivorous animal, once characteristic of Harlem and the Bronx, whose hide furnishes shoe leather and glove skins and whose pelt is made up into wild animal fur robes, etc.
=Goatee=—a beard or tuft, so trimmed that it falls from the chin like the beard of a goat; a fashion once very common, but now rare.
=Goater=—a thief’s term for dress.
=Goggle-cap=—a chauffeur’s c. having a front band in which goggles are affixt.
=Goggles=—a covering for the eyes, or also for part of the face, with glasses or lenses secured in silk gauze, leather, metal or rubber, fastened around the head with straps or wire frames and worn to exclude dust when automobiling, mining, etc.
=Gold=—a precious metal, bowed down to, in the representativ abstract, by all the tribes of Israel and by the also-ran; in commerce and industry made into jewelry for one’s wives and near-wives; in medicin as an alleged constituent of a celebrated cure for good fellows.
=Gold filled=—trade term for a compound plate of 2 sheets of g. having a sheet of baser metal between them; by extension applied to cheap jewelry made thereof.
=Gold lace=—l. wrought with g. or gilt thread; an ornamental or decorativ trimming fabric formed by weaving silken threads wound round with g. filaments; most used for military, naval and similar uniforms.
=Gold stick=—an official of the royal household of Great Britain, a colonel of the Life Guards or a captain of the gentlemen-at-arms, who bears a gilt rod on state occasions; also loosely applied to other state attendants.
=Goldsmiths’ company=—one of the ancient London guilds, having certain hereditary privileges, among them that of stamping or certifying all gold and silver.
=Golf bag=—a long, open-end b. of canvas, leather or plaid, or combinations thereof, with a sling strap, and usually with an outside pocket for balls.
=Golf cap=—general name for cloth caps made with a visor or peak, but without a band.
=Golf cloth=—see Albert c.
=Golf coat=—generally, a single-breasted sack c. or Norfolk jacket with a plaited fullness under the arms to allow freedom of stroke (whence name of Stroke c. sometimes given) with a belted back; more loosely, any old c. one is not afraid of soiling; once upon a recent time a gaudy thing of green or red, or with green or red trimmings.
=Golf discs=—small rubber knobs affixt to heels and soles of shoes for surety of footing.
=Golf glove=—a g. of soft leather, usually chamois, commonly made with open (hole) knuckles and to button on the top or outside of wrist; altho there are many other models.
=Golf hose=—heavy woolen or worsted stockings, in Scotch patterns, quite “swell” when they were costly.
=Golf shoes=—s. made for the use of golfers, with protruding nails or buttons on soles to prevent slipping.
=Golf sleeves=—trade term for neglige shirts with s. made in 2 pieces, separated and buttoning at about the hight of the elbow, the forepart being removed for freedom and comfort.
=Golf stocks=—any neck stock.
=Golf studs=—see Boot s. and G. discs.
=Golf waistcoat=—same as Coat sweater.
=Golosh=—an overshoe; formerly of wood; but modernly of rubber.
=Good form=—see Form.
=Good middling=—see Cotton classification.
=Good ordinary=—see Cotton classification.
=Goodwood=—perhaps the most fashionable race-meet in England, vieing with Ascot, but unlike the latter, being a private park, owned by the Duke of Richmond.
=Goodyear stitching=—a modern mechanical process of sewing together the sole and vamp of a shoe, the process commencing and concluding at the breast or back of heel. See below.
=Goodyear welt=—in shoemaking, meaning that the uppers and soles are secured by means of a welt sewed on the Goodyear machine, an improvement on the McKay machine. See above.
=Goose=—a tailor’s heaving smoothing iron, originally the kind heated on a stove or flame; so called from its handle, which somewhat resembles the neck of a goose.
=Gore=—a triangular piece of cloth let into a garment to widen it or eke out narrow goods; a gusset.
=Gore=—see Elastic g.
=Gorge=—that part of a coat or vest encircling the neck; where the collar, if any, is joined. Compare Opening.
=Gorget=—(1) an ornamental neckband, very full and broad in front, worn a century or two ago when men knew how to dress; (2) a steel throat armor.
=Goring=—see Elastic gore.
=Gown=—(1) a sack overcoat; a Chesterfield; a raincoat; (2) a clergyman’s robe; (3) a bachelor’s, doctor’s or other academic g.; (4) a night robe; (5) the slip or covering thrown over you whilst in the barber’s chair.
=Gownsman=—a collegian.
=Grade=—to arrange a scale or system of sizes for manufacturing or for buying and selling; to classify fibers, qualities, etc.
=Grader=—an assistant to the designer or head cutter in wholesale manufacturing houses; his duty is to take the first paper patterns designed for the season and grade them onto heavy paper for the cloth cutters to work from; these are called “block patterns”.
=Grading=—the making of a set of patterns, in all sizes, for any article of apparel.
=Graduated tie=—a t. for wear with standing shirt collars, narrowest at the middle and widening evenly to the ends.
=Graft=—a sticky substance much esteemed by buyers, manufacturers and politicians.
=Grain leather=—l. made from the hides of neat cattle, split so thin as to be suitable for same uses as goat, calf, etc., which it is made to imitate.
=Grand street=—a street in New York famous for its Jewish pushcart trade; being lined for many blocks with double rows of peripatetic merchants displaying almost every class of merchandise.
=Grandpa’s hat=—a tall “top h.” of felt or beaver fur or rough silk plush, bell shaped, reminiscent of the 40’s.
=Granit=—weaving term for small irregular effects produced by yarns of several colors or by an irregular arrangement of the warp and weft, comprehending any and all fabrics without specific weave for foundation; in general, any face finisht fancy weave suiting not made on a twill. (=Granite.=)
=Grass linen=—coarse, plain woven, unbleacht l., used for summer clothing.
=Grass suit=—a weedy thing that makes a duck hunter look like a tree to a fool bird, but like a cannibal to timid humans.
=Gray cloth=—undyed.
=Gray cotton=—unbleacht or undyed.
=Grease paint=—an article of theatrical makeup.
=Grease spot=—the badge of a slob.
=Great-coat=—any heavy overcoat; particularly a coachman’s skirted overcoat.
=Great Scott!=—an aptly named depilatory (a proprietary article) said to be composed of tallow and pitch, which, on removal, causes the beauty-seeker to say Great Scott—and then some.
=Greaves=—leg armor.
=Grecian sack=—a loose, baggy box overcoat worn about 1850–60, usually with velvet collar and cuffs and quilted satin lining.
=Greeley hat=—see Horace Greeley h.
=Green cap=—a color (of c.) that undergraduates in some of our colleges are chivalrously endeavoring to force freshmen to wear.
=Green gold=—g. alloyed with silver. Compare red g. and white g.
=Greenback=—vernacular for paper money.
=Grege=—raw silk as wound off the cocoons.
=Gregorian=—see Wig.
=Gremial veil=—an embroidered cloth spread over the knees of a bishop when sitting during high mass.
=Grenadier cap=—a tall pointed c. or head covering, properly of bearskin, worn in certain European military corps.
=Grenadine=—a gauzy or net-like silk fabric used for men’s neckwear and women’s dresses.
=Grenadine=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.
=Grenoble=—(1) a town in France famous for its many glove factories and the fine quality of kid skins raised in the surrounding neighborhood; (2) a trade diminutiv implying excellence.
=Grey Breeks=—the popular name for Lord Lynedoch’s 90th Regiment of Foot (1794).
=Grip=—a suit case; a large traveling bag.
=Gripper=—see Wiper.
=Grogram=—a stiff fabric of silk and wool or all-wool, of diagonal weave; a coarse stuff of which boat cloaks, heavy coats, etc., were once made.
=Groom’s box overcoat=—see Coachman’s b. o.
=Groom’s frock coat=—same as Coachman’s f. c., but about one inch shorter, and worn with a leather belt.
=Groom’s livery=—like coachman’s l. with slight modifications of detail.
=Groom’s vest=—a waistcoat of whipcord or corduroy with knitted or flannel sleeves attacht.
=Gros de Londres=—a fine weave of gros-grain silk (qv).
=Grosgrain=—a stout, close-woven, fine corded silk fabric, dyed in plain colors and having but little luster.
=Guanaco=—a South American animal of the camel family yielding a coarse, inferior hair of but little use.
=Guard’s coat=—a long, loose traveling overcoat of tweed or homespun, made with a whole back, held together in gathers by a cloth strap. (1907)
=Guernsey=—a close-fitting, knitted woolen shirt worn by sailors.
=Guessfit=—term coined by the compiler of this dictionary for use by tailors in derision of readymade—and now used by cheap tailors everywhere who live in glass houses themselves.
=Guinea cloth=—see Outing c.
=Gum bucket=—nautical slang for tobacco pipe.
=Gum shoe=—a rubber overshoe.
=Gum shoe=—a term for underhand transactions.
=Gum stocking=—see Elastic s.
=Gum tissue=—see Rubber t. and Buckskin.
=Gums=—rubber overshoes.
=Gun-mouthed trousers=—see Sailor’s t.
=Gun-pocket=—place for the arsenal.
=Gunner’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, full d., dress, undress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also Variations.
=Gunny=—see Gunnysacking.
=Gunnysacking=—coarse spun canvas or burlap of loose material, such as jute, used here for baling—but they use it in India for clothing among the poorer classes.
=Gusset=—a triangular piece of cloth, usually small, inserted into a garment to give added strength or more room; a gore.
=Gutter seam=—term used by collar and cuff manufacturers descriptiv of an edge s. made by folding the inner and outer plies, previously stitcht together inside out, in over the interlining, and then stitcht thru, finally, from the outside, the inner edges of the fold being generally overcast in advance of the first stitching. This s. is supposed to wear extra well, with little or no (?) liability to turn into “saw edges”.
=Guy=—anyone who makes a show of himself in his clothes.
=Gymnasium shoe=—a laced soft s. of kid or canvas, with a light elk or buff turn sole, having but little sock lining and no counter or box toe.
=Gymkhana costume=—anything absurd, in keeping with the farcical character of this ridiculous race or sport.
=Gyves=—fetters; the old word for handcuffs.
H
=Haberdasher=—a dealer in “men’s furnishings”.
=Habit=—the double-breasted dress coat of 1840–50 with very high collar.
=Hackle=—see Hatchel.
=Hackling=—a process of preparing flax fibers for spinning, arranging them smoothly and parallel.
=Haik=—a white drapery drawn low on the forehead and falling curtain-like about the face; it conceals the cachi (qv) and is held in place by one or more tightly fitting rings of camel’s or goat’s hair, prest down tightly on the head, and is of such dimensions as to conceal the entire figure. (Arabia.)
=Hair clipper=—a small hand-mowing machine for making “shavy-headed monkeys”.
=Hair cutter=—a patronizing sort of barber.
=Hair dresser=—just barber.
=Hair dye=—essence of vanity used to make gay bloods of old bucks.
=Hair oil=—maybe medicinal, but once worn to plaster down one’s hair when such was considered “the thing”; now a mark of the near-gent.
=Hair seal=—unpluckt s.