CHAPTER LXXVIII
THE CAPE COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1861. Simon’s Bay, Jan. 1.]
Succeeded in getting _Sidon_ under weigh, with _Pioneer_ in tow, at 9 A.M.
[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
6 A.M.--Slipped moorings and steamed out of Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape Point. 9.--Made sail, passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up screw.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Forte_, Jan. 13.]
It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on way to Ascension, but the wind falling light for several successive days, and having appointed the Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension the middle of January, did not delay.
Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa appears to have been drawn by Captain Andrew Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken off by the _Ann_ in that year. Although the island is little more than a mile in circumference, from April 1843 to February 1845 upwards of 200,000 tons of guano had been removed. In the month of January 1845, 450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen and labourers at work. The constant presence of a man-of-war was necessary. The island appears to have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals, etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few enterprising individuals have, by keeping guard there, prevented the birds from being disturbed, so that they resort there annually, and guano to the value of £30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius market. This increase has excited the cupidity of other parties at Cape Town, who choose to consider it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as they term it, cultivated the guano. While one party is prepared to defend their preserve, others are preparing to help themselves, and use force. It was to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The island, however, belongs to no one.
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms. Found _Arrogant_, 47, Commodore Edmonstone, and _Mæander_, whose figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on account of its being the turtle season, which continues from November until June.
[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
Inspected _Arrogant_. Clean and smart. Good at quarters, as well as at manning and arming boats. Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by cloth caps, now prevalent in the service.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
_Arrogant_ sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to quell disturbance by King Badiboo. Inspected the “island of forbidding appearance,” without water or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable heap of ashes. Ascension is now in a state of improvement as to its resources, natural and artificial. Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial, consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s shop, mess-room and barracks; but the chief interests of the island are centred in turtle. The first part of a tolerably good road has been made between hills of cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and lava.
Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the island, 2818 feet above the sea; rising, as the Directory terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst waste and desolation”; from it you look down on some forty hills of cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to the supply of lava and ashes; but now, with the assistance of planting and cultivation attracting rain, it is rapidly progressing. There appear to be about 2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation. Cattle, and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep appear to thrive best. In addition to seven or eight milch cows, the Government farm can boast of two bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
Weighed.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Came to in Sierra Leone. Found _Arrogant_. Saluted authorities and landed, receiving due honours.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
Arrived H.M.S. _Falcon_, under command of Lieutenant Bagge, Commander Arthur Fitzroy having died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply grieved. It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed of his elder brother: one of a family through whose care and kindness I, as a midshipman, recovered from this deadly African fever.
I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F. Heneage, to poor Arthur Fitzroy’s vacancy in the _Falcon_. She was lying in the river, where there was nothing above the surface to be seen moving but sharks’ fins. The new Commander was well got up, as was his wont, even to kid gloves. Just as his four-oared gig was getting alongside, one of the boys missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment Heneage unbuckled his sword, dived and saved the boy. He read his commission at the capstan in his muddy suit--a good beginning!--and returned on board _Forte_ to dine with his old Chief. For this gallant deed the Humane Society awarded Heneage a medal.
It was now my painful duty to write the following official letter:--
“FORTE,” AT SIERRA LEONE, _February 11, 1861_.
To the Secretary of the Admiralty.
SIR--I have the honour to inform you, for the information of My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I have received my appointment to the South East Coast of America; but, as I did not apply for that command, I beg most respectfully to request their Lordships will be pleased to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape of Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior command.--I have the honour to be, sir, your obedient servant,
(Signed) HENRY KEPPEL, Rear-Admiral.
[Sidenote: Sierra Leone.]
Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander, and Mr. Turner, Flag Lieutenant. The expedition had started to punish the King of Badiboo, who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having robbed British merchants, sent in reply to Governor D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight him, and if he was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot! Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent all his troops, was anxious for the assistance of the Navy.
[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
Embarked the Governor under salute and manned yards. Weighed for the Gambia, _Arrogant_ and _Falcon_ having preceded.
[Sidenote: Gambia, Feb. 16.]
Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of a ship at anchor to the N.W. Steered towards her. On getting within distance, she signalled, “You are standing into danger.” This was the _Arrogant_, my old friend Edmonstone of the Naval College, the cleverest fellow there, who passed out six months before his allotted two years: no better fellow, but chance had made me his senior. My reply was, “Weigh immediately and follow me.” Steamed into the Gambia, _Arrogant_ in company. Came to in 15 fathoms off Bathurst.
[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
1 P.M.--_Arrogant_ proceeded up the river to join the expedition which left Bathurst on Friday. 4 P.M.--_Falcon_ arrived, but being out of coal came to. At 4.30 P.M., _Forte’s_ services not being required, steamed out of the river.
[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135 tons of coal, steamed out.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
4 A.M.--Tornado came off, cool and refreshing. Made sail after the strength had passed. Departed this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a former shipmate in _Dido_. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three young children.
[Sidenote: Accra, Mar. 3.]
3 P.M.--Came to off Accra; landed in the evening.
[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
11 A.M.--Re-embarked under salute from the fort. 9.30 P.M.--Weighed.
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
1.30 P.M.--Came to in 7 fathoms off a village called Jellacoffy, two miles to the eastward of Cape St. Paul, a good place for stock and fruit. 4.30 P.M.--Weighed.
[Sidenote: Fernando Po, Mar. 10.]
Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn Cove, Fernando Po. Found _Bloodhound_, 3, paddle wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander Francis W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned salute of Spanish brig.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
8 A.M.--Arrived _Alecto_, Commander Raby, bringing our December mail.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do duty on shore, two marriages among the coloured population were solemnized on board by Captain Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured people, Protestants, in and about the town, who are not allowed to assemble together in each other’s houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for the education of their children. Such is Spanish law in A.D. 1861! Spanish Governor Don José de la Gandara visited the ship: a superior and intelligent-looking man.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
11.30 A.M.--Weighed; stood to southward down west coast of the island.
[Sidenote: St. Thomas, Mar. 16.]
7.30 A.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St. Thomas, Fort St. Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I anchored here, just twenty-three years ago, in the _Childers_ on my way to Ascension and England (1838). Found everybody on shore anything but civil; slavers calling are more profitable than Her Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently fishing, started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen to return. After we got under weigh at 8 P.M. observed port-fires and other night signals in different directions.
[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
1 P.M.--Chased and came up with a brig, the _Falmouth_ of New York. This vessel had been captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S. cruisers _Portsmouth_, and sent to New York to be sold for the benefit of the captors.
[Sidenote: St. Paul de Loanda, Mar. 21.]
6 A.M.--Exchanged salutes with the _Archer_, 8; came to in 5 fathoms as near the coal depot as we could. Found _Wrangler_, also an old acquaintance at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S. _Constellation_; exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably. Found the American iron coaling launches most useful. Native labour idle and next to useless.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
Midnight, weighed.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef and live bullocks, yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and cabbages. English potatoes plentiful.
[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope, April 21.]
Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s Bay. Found here _Brisk_, _Gorgon_, and _Persian_.
[Sidenote: April 22.]
Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for our relief.
[Sidenote: April 24.]
8 P.M.--_Narcissus_ arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin Walker to relieve me. Appointed to the Brazilian command.
[Sidenote: April 25.]
Salutes exchanged.
[Sidenote: April 29.]
Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of Good Hope and West African station to Sir Baldwin Walker. At 8.30 P.M. steamed out of Simon’s Bay to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports from China having cleared out the stores.
[Sidenote: May 3.]
10 A.M.--Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy swell.
[Sidenote: May 16.]
6.40 P.M.--Came to at Ascension. Found here _Mæander_, _Tortoise_, and _Buffalo_.
[Sidenote: Ascension, May 17.]
Took in all the coal we could get by 8 P.M. Sailed next morning.
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