CHAPTER CIII

PEKING

[Sidenote: 1869. Kobe, Sept. 18.]

Anchored off Kobe (_Salamis_), intending to go to Osaka in _Salamis_ on the morrow. Consul Enslie and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke of Edinburgh on board _Salamis_, _Ocean_ firing the Consul’s salute, _Galatea_ the Governor’s. Nothing could be more civil and attentive than all concerned were. Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the royal visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s disposal. We landed and walked to the waterfall, where we found a guard and refreshment. The Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and Stanhope dining with us afterwards.

[Sidenote: Osaka, Sept. 19.]

Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow the deferring the visit to Osaka. The Prince and party were early on board, and by seven we were under way, with _Galatea’s_ steam-launch in tow. On anchoring off the bar we were immediately visited by the officials, placing a state and other government boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor coming off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the Mikado’s magnificent state-boat.

Before entering the river a royal salute was fired from the battery. At the settlement the Prince was received with a guard, and every possible respect. The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of respect with which the Prince would rather have dispensed. Consul Gower had lunch ready, after which the Prince was taken, much against his will, sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere. After another feed, returned to dinner on board _Galatea_.

Just before reaching the anchorage, with position lights up and everything proper, we were most wickedly run into by a small iron Jap steamer, smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit and spring of fore-masthead.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented sailing early. Carpenters of ships on board to clear away wreck. At 10 A.M. we weighed. Heard the last of old _Rodney’s_ band playing, “Cheer, boys, cheer!” as the crew mounted the rigging to the very trenches to give their departing old Chief three times three hearty cheers. _Ocean_ making signal “Farewell,” we led _Galatea_ through the Osaka Straits, intending to anchor for the night to the southward of the rock, our leadsmen on the paddle-boxes showing depth of water.

However, in rounding to _Galatea_ took the ground. I joined H.R.H. on the bridge, not with the idea of interfering, but I wished to see him get his own ship off.

His first idea was to send the lighter boats to sound in every direction. The shallowest water was that on which the ship had grounded. The boom-boats were got into the water: bower anchors prepared for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging from the cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring to his small watch bill book, had noted the exact weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on board. I asked no more questions.

The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid out astern, the end passed through port side of the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would do next, when I heard the message to the engine room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered, as I believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable astern slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat. I inquired of H.R.H. what made him first go ahead! He had ascertained that his ship was on the hard sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw propeller would dissolve the edge of the sand--the rest followed.

The old sailor of sixty had learned something from the young steamer of twenty-five. We enjoyed an excellent dinner on the starboard side of His Royal Highness’s cabin. Weighed.

[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]

We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward and northward of Kosii Island.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits. _Galatea_, not being over handy with her port helm, we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the city, to wait for slack water the following morning.

[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]

Lovely weather; having led _Galatea_ through the remainder of the straits, made signal to part company and rendezvous Nagasaki, we taking the short cut to the westward, while she took the route to the northward of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed through that beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in the snug little harbour of Kigatsu.

[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Sept. 24.]

Weighed just before daylight and entered the lovely harbour of Nagasaki. Here we found _Adventure_, _Galatea_, _Icarus_, _Dwarf_, Commander C. Walker, and _Havoc_, merchant ship, dressed with flags to do honour to the Prince. I soon made arrangements with Mr. Consul Flowers, that as the _Galatea_ was coaling both sides, and guns run in, no salute could be fired, and cut out work for the morrow. H.R.H. received Governor, then an address from British residents. At 2.30 the Prince will lunch with the Consul and will return the Governor’s call, after which, I think, he will have had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here, expressed the great disappointment there would be caused by His Royal Highness passing Shanghai without visiting that model settlement.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

Royal standard hoisted on board _Galatea_ at 8 A.M. At 9 inspected _Dwarf_; another pattern of cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter ourselves, is not attained by any other nation or station. Took the wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie Heneage and I were so kindly nursed, where on different occasions we were really ill. We also went over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where poor George Fitzroy died last year.

Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle Vue Hotel, where the children already were--enjoying conjurer’s tricks--went on board _Galatea_ to assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then the Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from the British community; after which the Prince left under a salute, ships present manning yards and masthead flags up.

After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and landed higher up to return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a quiet dinner.

Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations that can be imagined, the _Galatea_ twice lighted up with red, white, and blue from her yard-arms and row of ports, we proceeded to the _Adventure_, where the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded us, leaving Colin to the care of Webb.

As soon as the Prince had heard of the above arrangement, he proposed dividing his staff and friends intended for the trip to Peking between _Adventure_ and ourselves, leaving _Galatea_ to complete coal and follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail. Elliot Yorke and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr. Porter, who had kindly undertaken to prepare the way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the _Adventure_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]

_Sabbath._--By 6 A.M. _Icarus_ had started under sail, _Adventure_ following, ready to give a tug across. On board _Galatea_ to breakfast. Inspection below, and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the porcelain shops, which do not hold with the Chinese, although the Japs excel in lacquer ware.

Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a shore appointment. Stanhope and I paid the Flowers a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a few small presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki!

[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]

It was 2.30 P.M. before I got my passengers, consisting of the Prince, Stanhope, Haig, and Lord Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood out, cheered by _Dwarf_ and several merchant ships.

[Sidenote: Chefoo, Sept. 30.]

Came to, 2 P.M. Found _Icarus_. Elliot Yorke had gone in _Opossum_, leaving me and Mons. Chevalier.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott joined our party.

[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 2.]

Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with the pilot, Mr. Band, coming alongside. Pronounced the bar passable at 10, when we forced her through the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At the usual place we came in contact with a tier of junks, but having left most of our boats behind, purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken gunnel, losing a small kedge anchor, and bent davits; Mr. Band consoling himself with a glass of grog.

The consternation among the boats as the wave caused by our speed lifted them on to the banks, and occasionally washed a looker-on off his legs, was rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good repair, and the pilot reports some heavy American guns being got into position: the coolies at work stating that in one year’s time they will be prepared to rid themselves of us barbarians!

It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it being within a day or two of the races, the promised horses of Mr. Porter were not forthcoming, but the boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready, and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we should start that evening after dinner.

A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy of the _Overland Express_, by which it appears that my successor and his staff had left England on August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could not help being glad at Kellett’s recovery.

The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably fitted for sleeping; then we have a messing boat, a cooking boat, and one for the servants. Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including Chow-Wang the mandarin, who has always accompanied me. We are eleven boats; each bearing a small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape.

[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 3.]

I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, the only consolation being that the tracking coolies might have been employed in a less congenial way. They have no weekly rest-day.

Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything is pronounced to be an impostor, and Mandarin Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However, Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken do their best; the great difficulty being to keep the boats together, that with the provisions being always out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and onions to be purchased at the villages. The water is too muddy even to wash in.

A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much dust, books and papers curling up; preferable to wet and damp though!

[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]

Still moving up the river; but our progress has been slow owing to the difficulty of keeping so large a number of boats together. However, all seem jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our good-natured Prince, whom every one delights in.

Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, we found that good fellow Conolly, who had come to meet us from the Legation, bringing me a letter from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty welcome.

Nothing could have been more absurd than the plan laid down for so large a party by our self-appointed adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and splendid weather of September is all well enough for one or two, but he undertook to mount our nine selves, four European servants, and convey luggage, to do which he proceeded from Nagasaki on board the _Adventure_ in advance.

On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he having calculated on the kindness of a good-natured European community to mount us. Nor could the Legation provide horses sufficient for our party more than half-way. Here we are at the close of the third day without a prospect of doing more than get to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats made beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful omelette, 200 eggs and other things in it, for breakfast.

[Illustration: _The Prince who made the Omelette._]

[Sidenote: Peking. Oct. 6].

Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived before 8 A.M. Sir Rutherford’s groom “William” put in an appearance with the stud, among which I recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were mounts for all, besides carts for luggage, etc. A pleasant two hours’ ride brought us to the Legation, where the Prince received a sincere and respectful but hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered, and Miss Lowder looking as charming as ever. We breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were collected the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much to the amusement of our party, who, including H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our party was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine with them. The chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife dined with the big ones.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H. investing considerably. The Russian Minister and the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires came to meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal; better than a formal presentation, His Royal Highness being entirely _incog._

In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into Curio Street, where I was induced to join in a lot together, my choice being a beautiful Chinese jar, the likes of which I have not before seen. Other things too were bid for which may yet find their way here.

[Sidenote: Legation, Peking, Oct. 8.]

Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little early breakfast of good bread and butter, tea, and eggs brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses himself until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle too, but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him to Curio Street. Had a chat with Sir Rutherford this morning on China affairs, and found that he lamented the present policy of our rulers at home, and had clearly pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting into another war. He showed me the copy of a letter Lord Clarendon had found it necessary to address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister, pointing out how different is the statement of the Chinese Ambassador (that the Chinese Government were for advancement) from the real facts, by which it appears that nothing is farther from their intentions, and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his present policy an experimental one only. By which it seems to me their eyes are reluctantly being opened after the dust thrown in them by the Minister, Burlingham.

[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]

H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a luncheon in the Palace grounds provided by Sir Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen, the younger ones taking turns to dine at the Secretaries’ mess. We move from table after the first glass of wine, followed by coffee and cigars, the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old ones, as well as a few younger, attracted by the fair Miss Lowder to sixpenny pool.

[Sidenote: Peking, Oct. 10.]

_Sabbath._--After attending church, different parties had different ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H., to whom it was a novelty, partook of a regular Chinese feast--bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been kept a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc. Most of us went into the attractive shops of Curio Street.

[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]

Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to pack and start the many carts that ought to reach Usung before us. Until the last moment the vendors of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting articles.

At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were once more on the Legation horses, and bade adieu to our kind and hospitable host and hostess, with their pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the light Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend “Don Juan,” Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It was sunset before we were all embarked with our goods and chattels, and an hour later before we were clear of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek, which gave time for Conolly and Baker to dine with us. Conolly had, of course, delighted everybody, while nothing could have been more obliging than both as interpreters.

[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]

H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we resumed whist. A fortunate turn in my luck; got up winner of the expedition of 140 points, some of it going towards curios. Having dined comfortably, 8 P.M. brought us alongside _Salamis_, H.R.H. going on shore to bowls, having first arranged to wait over the morrow.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which looked like a settling of accounts, and certain difficulties about them were suddenly solved by H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the expenses of our expedition, left dollars with the Consul to be returned to Mr. Porter.

[Sidenote: Tientsin.]

We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The Shanghai community regretting that circumstances and want of time prevented their proving separately their appreciation of my services in the Far East, invited the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H., Stanhope, and self mounted donkeys and rode to the town. The Prince had selected eight from the Navy and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at 9 P.M.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

It was four o’clock before our Prince came on board this morning; they had a spirited and hardly-contested game, the shore, however, beating the Navy five successive games, His Royal Highness backing his side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars. Then he pluckily challenged them to double or quits, which he won. A long steamer, the _Chili_, ahead, was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we were out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the community for their kind appreciation of my services, and regretting my inability, owing to orders from the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their kind invitation. At. 1.30 P.M. weighed and steamed down the Peiho for the third and last time.

[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]

In steaming yesterday we met an American steamer with the French naval Commander-in-Chief on board. He was probably going to consult with his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress, a French missionary having lately been beaten to death, another proof, if any were wanting, of Mr. Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can we make them respected, or even retain a footing in the country.

With history and centuries of experience before them, our Ministers are imposed upon by a highly paid American adventurer and made to believe that the Chinese people only require civilised treatment to receive and welcome us all over the Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and ignorant Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of the hated barbarian.

While looking out of the window during my toilet saw a well-dressed China woman stumping along on her poor contracted feet with her hands clasped and extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful good run, and tried to plunge in. The water being low she stuck in the mud, when a man and woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank, where she lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we passed out of sight; poor creature! I suppose they have their fits of jealousy as well as we barbarians.

The tide not being high enough on the bar we anchored, which gave us an opportunity to inspect the Taku Forts--which we shall have to occupy some day.

[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]

At 10 A.M. went to inspect the _Galatea_, where I was received with manned yards and all due honours. Found her beautifully clean, and in all respects a man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully captain of his own ship; without an efficient head she could not be what she is. Ship’s company below the average as fine-looking men, but as clean as seamen who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be.

His Royal Highness came on board _Salamis_ to take leave of the wife. Old Raby, with his good-natured, comical face, took leave of me on board _Galatea_. On parting company _Galatea_ and _Icarus_ gave three hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to Hong Kong.

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