CHAPTER CV
LAST VISIT TO THE STRAITS
[Sidenote: 1869. Singapore, Nov. 7.]
It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, although a farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. Just after sunset, as the P. and O. _Salsette_ entered New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed through the mist--the _Rodney_ on her way home. In less than half an hour I was at dinner with Algie Heneage. They had, as might have been expected, a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the sapient instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to use steam unless in case of danger. The extra time and pay of the crew would be more than expense of fuel.
Both Governor and Judge had made preparations to receive us, and had sent their carriages. It was arranged, as the steamer would go alongside the P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land there more conveniently, when the wife and children should go to Sir Benson and Lady Maxwell, and I to Sir Harry and Lady Ord.
[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
As the _Salsette_ hauled alongside the coaling pier, I saw my old friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a deputation who had come to invite me, on the part of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. Large dinner at Government House--a palace. Whampoa there. He gave me a pair of cassowaries to add to the museum on board _Rodney_, also some pigs to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!
[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]
Had intended to have paid a visit to the _Rodney_, but continued rain set in, which lasted till it was time to start for the entertainment, which took place in the P. and O. Office building. His Excellency kindly drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with flags and flowers, while on the walls were the names in large letters, formed with flowers, of the ships I had served in on the station. Beginning with _Magicienne_, in which I was a Lieutenant, there came in succession, _Dido_, _Mæander_, _Raleigh_, finishing with the old _Rodney_ (now without flag flying). The chair was occupied by my old friend W. H. Read, with Sir Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his left. The tables were full; the guest of the day received with cheers! The chairman came at once to the toast which had brought them together, and went into a long detail of the ships in which I had served and commanded on this station, beginning with _Magicienne_. A laugh was raised when he alluded to the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the _Dido_. I remember her well, with her taunt spars, sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful hull, dashing about the station in every direction, and always in for a fight when one was to be had.--The _Mæander_, with Sir James Brooke; his merits recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. The _Raleigh_, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed into this beautiful harbour from the westward to show his confidence in its safety, and the wisdom of the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them of its existence in 1849.--Fatshan, ‘the smartest cutting-out affair of modern times.’ Last comes the _Rodney_, of which vessel I can only say we have seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong Kong and Yokohama: he never undertook what he did not carry out, and a better passport to posterity after such a stirring life no man need possess.”
Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink “Long life and prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with three times three--and don’t be afraid of bringing the roof down!”
Got through the returning of thanks with what composure I could muster before so many good old friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech about the wife and children, which was warmly received, and to which I did my best to respond. The meeting, which was a great success, broke up only in time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer was from the last of that noble class of ships, the _Rodney_. Friends had collected on the P. and O. wharf to give us “one cheer more.”
[Sidenote: Penang, Nov. 11.]
At 8 A.M. we anchored off Penang, my kind old friend Lewis the first on board to welcome me; also a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us to pass the few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining for six hours, we had only time to make a hurried call on the Lewises before going on board. Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu, Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!
[Sidenote: Galle, Nov. 17.]
Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle Harbour, but an open and dangerous anchorage. Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, the _Surat_ being told off to take the passengers to Suez. _Surat_ the same I came out in near three years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in command, having lodged his ship on a reef in the Red Sea, from which she had a narrow escape.
Keppel Garnier went at once on board the _Surat_ to see about berths, while Risk went on shore to see if we could not have possession of what is called “Queen’s House,” the original residence of the Dutch Governors, who thoroughly understood comfort. It was noon before he returned, it having been necessary to telegraph to the Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, at Colombo, for permission; the reply being, “Certainly, if not occupied by Lady Napier.” Lady Napier was on her way to join her husband in Calcutta, and sailed shortly after our arrival in the harbour. Our steamer was to start again at 5 P.M. for Suez, but it was a pleasant change for the children and ourselves, if only for a few hours.
[Illustration: _Jack Rodyk._]
We had no sooner taken possession than the house was inundated with venders of all sorts--curios, inlaid workboxes, and desks of antique fashion, carved elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs, porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a dirty native, who called himself “Stony Merchant,” whose goods we were informed were all manufactured in Birmingham.
Of course the children wanted everything. Colin got the model of a native boat, May an ebony elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory ones, which were removed from the sitting-room table while we were at dinner, most probably by the man to whom I had paid fifteen shillings for them. We enjoyed a fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch Governors of former days, but Vrouws and families! Among the callers was Wodehouse of the Civil Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that numerous family are. The harbour-master conducted us on board the Government boat.
It was dark, but it did not require much light to find that the deck was covered with some thirty or forty children, varying from the age of six downwards.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Coaled at Aden.
[Sidenote: Suez, Dec. 3.]
Suez.--The _Surat_ was the first of the P. and O. steamers that landed her passengers alongside the wharf close to the new dock. A train took us to the hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, with Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. We had a walk and talk with them.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
The train took us off at 8 P.M. without giving us a chance of seeing anything of the canal or country. After fourteen hours’ suffering we got out of the train and embarked in a small steamer close by, which conveyed us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so home.
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