CHAPTER XCV

THE COMMAND IN CHINA

[Sidenote: 1868. Nov. 1.]

At the same time we heard of the fresh complications in China, the mail brought news of the loss of the _Rattler_ on September 24, in Shakotan Bay. My grief was great. Poor _Rattler_; unlucky nephew! In the midst of their trouble the French sloop _Dupleix_, with the ever kind Captain du Petit Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]

[Sidenote: Saigon. Nov. 5.]

We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There was no difficulty in finding a pilot off Cape St. James. We proceeded at once up the river to Saigon. On landing, was received by the French officials with every demonstration of respect. The Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays, and a mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, where apartments for self and staff were ready. Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor and Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He had served in the French Naval Brigade in the Crimea; but we were on different Attacks, and did not meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. Edmond de Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his mother was English, and he spoke our language fluently.

[Sidenote: Saigon.]

Saigon appears to have been well selected as a dockyard and arsenal; situated 25 miles up a river navigable for line-of-battle ships, it might be rendered invulnerable in these days of infernal machines: a legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except against an aggressor. In the arsenal were all the means of building ships-of-war. Several old line-of-battle lay in the river, besides an immense troopship, equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic and

## active. By means of convict labour, which they obtain from Bourbon,

they carry on roads and raise buildings.

The site for a magnificent city, with squares and palaces, is marked out; but the great thing wanted is population, which, in spite of the assurances of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by the natives, is now fast disappearing. In the temporary banquetting room, where I was entertained, were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, to which was added that of Isabella of Spain. Saddle horses were placed at our disposal. Visited a large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a weedy-looking lot! There was a zealous and enterprising naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne, Directeur du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work unassisted.

I was told that one road extended some 900 miles in a northerly direction, which must bring them not far from our Burmese possessions. We heard from the officers of the gunboats who make excursions up the river that they frequently get shots at elephants and that tigers are numerous. The sport may be good, but I should think the climate was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of curios was to be obtained, with the exception of small boxes and stands inlaid with mother-o’-pearl, in the making of which the natives seem to excel.

[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]

Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back as I had arrived. When taking leave of Admiral Ohier on shore, I requested him not to return my visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for that he paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed without giving me an opportunity of waiting on him. I was off the following morning for Singapore, where we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before paying a long promised visit to Siam.

[Sidenote: Bankok, Nov. 15.]

We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, Colonel Knox, kindly offered me the hospitality of the Consulate. W. H. Read was already there, having come up at my request to settle some consular matters which required attention. The young King Khoulalonkorn had but recently succeeded his father, whose obsequies were proceeding.

In one of the principal temples, the remains of His Majesty were placed in a huge silver urn, from which a ribbon passed through the hands of numerous priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for the repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue for a year, after which all that is left of the departed is consigned to the flames. Nothing could exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent and good-looking youth. Banquets and entertainments were the order of the day, and there was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples, palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque scenery.

[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]

On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short visit, and arrived at Singapore on the 27th.

[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]

Weighed and steamed to the westward.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

Came to in Penang Roads.

[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]

Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin and little May, who were quickly embarked.

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, with wife and kids on board, my kind old friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it was scarcely discovered when in the _Mæander_. I recommended it to a shifting Board of Admiralty as the fittest coaling station in the Far East.

[Sidenote: Dec. 19. Labuan.]

Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was the first on board; he had a grievance. The officer in command of a gunboat had declined to fire a royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, on Mr. Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained that owing to accidents no man-of-war mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a salute. However, I was told that the zealous Governor had dug up some old buried guns, and had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.

Vast improvements had been made since our last visit. Mr. Hugh Low, the Secretary, had married his daughter to the Governor. Low was a botanist, and had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. Dr. Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government appointment. De Crespigny had left the navy and become a Resident. We remained till the 23rd.

[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]

[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]

Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received as before in _Dido_, and again in the _Mæander_. It has altered little in the past five-and-twenty years, except to become more like a town on the Riviera than those one finds in the East under our own flag. There are plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome boulevard, cafés, and bands playing.

[Sidenote: 1869. Jan. 1.]

We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we began to experience what it was to face the north-east monsoon. All my party were prostrate. _Salamis_ was so sudden in her movements that cots were given up and beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a burning fever--caught, we supposed, at Labuan--patient and good, calling only for drink, but unable to bear clothing.

[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Jan. 3.]

At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel Garnier started to ask Dr. Hill to come from the _Melville_, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our reception at Government House, where we went on arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in attendance. After consultations, they tried to persuade us that Colin would pull through. On service, wives and children ought to remain at home!

However, the boy soon mended.

Nothing could have been more fortunate than the quarters into which we had been so kindly received. There was scarcely a person in Hong Kong who did not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better than any nurse. Our children were much at the Bertrand’s, where their charming little daughter, Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no business in a sailor’s log!

Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the true Irish hospitality with which we were entertained I should have fancied we were over-staying our welcome. The flagship _Rodney_ did not put in an appearance until the 21st. She had then to make good defects, and leave was due to the crew.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

We started, children and all, by the 8 A.M. steamer to pay a visit to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun in Canton. Nothing could be prettier than the passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when we came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to relate of bygone days. There, too, to the northward, was the fort I, with a small squadron, in 1857, was instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by the Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke the cap and sword which the Chinese Governor threw away that he might not be recognized. After a short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of Canton, where Robertson waited with chairs to receive us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a few days previously from the north, came with us in the steamer, and was also put up by Robertson.

Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show all there was. But we had arranged to return in a day or two, and our time would not allow of our seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon wished. We, however, saw one or two joss-houses, only curious when the meaning of the various grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. The City of the Dead was the most extraordinary. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch, as if it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all those who can afford it deposit their dead until some auspicious day for the funeral occurs, which may not be for years. Others who, having come from some distant province to hold office under Government, deposit their dead relatives in these clean and snug lodgings until they have made their fortunes, or are turned out, as the case may be.

The city is composed of one-storied houses, the streets straight and painfully quiet; some of the houses contained one, but the others two or three coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks burning in most, with a change of raiment and other little comforts the departed might require, and as there were a few priests about, I daresay the “comforts” were appreciated.

Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at the Consul’s Yamun, I was obliged to leave the sightseers and had not time to partake of an excellent luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of followers, and had only donned my uniform in time to enter the room as the Consul received him with a salute of three guns.

Our interview was the same as on a previous occasion, only now, as established old friends, we were much more cordial. The children amused themselves in the small, walled park attached to the Yamun, but a change of weather and a cutting N.E. wind coming on, our experienced friend the Archdeacon cautioned us to be careful.

Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return found a despatch from the Commodore detailing an outrage at Swatow, in which some well-known, ill-disposed villagers had fired into the _Cockchafer’s_ boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and the Commodore, pending further instructions, was preparing to punish the offenders.

It was fortunate my being in Canton with the Consul, as it enabled us at once to communicate with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his jurisdiction. The boats of the _Cockchafer_, when away exercising up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the inhabitants of the semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.

The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate with the headman of the village, but as he could get no one to conduct him to his house, he seized a well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had witnessed the outrage, that he might take him before the Consul at Swatow to be examined.

Without further provocation the villagers opened fire on the _Cockchafer’s_ boats, who, finding themselves opposed to some six hundred Chinese, made a running fight of it, as they retreated down the river, killing and wounding several of their assailants, returning with the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, and eight others, in a less degree, wounded.

I at once placed myself in communication with the Viceroy of the two Kwang provinces. That part of the department, Quang Tung, lying to the northward and eastward of Canton had long resisted the Imperial Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they themselves levied blackmail on traders passing from Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five to six thousand troops was gradually making its way to Chow-Chow-Fou, bringing the villages under subjection as it marched.

The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and Po-leng had on one occasion roasted alive the mandarin who had been sent to govern them. They placed another mandarin between two planks and sawed him in halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for the army to advance, and appointed two Commissioners, with a force and a couple of gunboats, to co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of the offending villages. The Commodore was ordered to take command of the _Rinaldo_, _Perseus_, _Leven_, _Bouncer_, and _Cockchafer_, together with a party of seamen and marines from the _Rodney_.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]

These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded to Swatow, with orders to make preparations, but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and Chinese forces. I, intending to follow in the _Salamis_, returned to Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on board her, and left same afternoon. Whether the Commodore thought that I should personally supersede him in the command, I do not know. When I arrived at Swatow on the 31st, I found he had neglected the latter part of his orders, and the morning after his arrival, without waiting for the Viceroy’s Commissioners, proceeded to land his marines and march up the banks to protect the boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led to the offending villages.

At 8 A.M. (28th January) an advance was made on the village of Tang-Tau, which, together with that of Po-leng, had assisted the villages of Ou-teng-foi in their attack. These three villages offered more or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first to open fire, and showed a bold front, but the Sneiders soon doubled up those who did not take the earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men advanced. Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was spared, as the inhabitants made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, which was barricaded, had their defences destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was difficult to ascertain the amount of loss of the villagers, as they were smart in carrying off their killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking they were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and returned to his ships. No looting of any sort was allowed, although geese and poultry were in plenty.

Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being Lieutenant Herbert Gye, whose face and hands were badly burned by an explosion of gunpowder lying loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed before and behind by two Chinamen who rushed on him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was wounded in the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap armed with a spear and intended for greater mischief.

The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages sent in their submission in the following terms, translated from the original:--

_Humble Petition_--

The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.

On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your great country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, and, racing away, foolishly excited our people to attack them, for which the great army has entered our villages and punished us.

We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg, undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that men and women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly for coming generations under your favour.

Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.

Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised that the force I was about to send from Hong Kong should wait to co-operate with his and his Commissioners, was greatly disappointed, and I expect our Minister at Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be the same.

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

10 A.M.--Weighed, and stood out of river Canton.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, and anchored off Pagoda.

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