CHAPTER XC

THE OUTLOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR

[Sidenote: 1868. Hiogo, Jan. 1.]

Commencement of another year. My flag at the fore, flying on board _Rodney_ in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo. _Rodney_ nearly twelve months in commission, while I have been nine within the limits of the station, having assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March 1867. Thanks to the speed of the _Salamis_ I have been enabled to visit all the important points of the China and Japan part of this extensive station, besides paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part of the world to have a second peep at Nankin: four and twenty years since I was there in _Dido_. The event for which we have been preparing since my arrival has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and other ports for commercial purposes.

The necessity or advantage of opening these ports seems doubtful, but they were mentioned in the former treaty, and all the foreign ministers, however they may disagree on other points, seem united in the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties must be respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing to the political state of affairs in Japan, the weakness of the Tycoon power, and strength of the Independent Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the strength of two parties styled among themselves the “Admission” and “Expulsion” parties, it was deemed advisable to appear before Osaka and Hiogo with an imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, had come from Yokohama in the _Adventure_ troopship, Captain Hickley, with a guard of fifty of the 9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted policemen in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation of Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché. The Americans made a good display of pennants, but France, afloat, was represented by one man-of-war, while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate our Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka.

The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry on the government, opposed by Prince Satsumali Li Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had collected a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power of the Tycoon. What their object is has not been ascertained. Most parties appear to agree as to the necessity of doing away with one of the two heads. The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses himself willing to be guided by their decision. The majority of Daimios decline attending this council and shut themselves up in their castles. The 1st of January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo are open to foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the ships-of-war off both ports, and no demonstration or disturbance takes place.

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

On the 6th _Basilisk_ sails with mails for Hong Kong; _Salamis_ for Chusan, to wait me there.

[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]

On 7th I go over in _Sylvia_ to visit and consult with Minister at Osaka. Land at foreign settlement, where we find horses to ride (4 miles) to the Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds the castle, met a number of troops arriving in various and curious costumes. These proved to be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he having retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent explanation of which was that Satsuma had surrounded the Mikado’s Palace with his troops, and thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person: representing the seat of government. The Tycoon stated he had removed his troops at the order of the Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma had placed his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the Tycoon, too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his country into civil war, retired to his castle at Osaka.

I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage; among the Japanese I have not seen a man more princely and determined, a good-looking man, apparently about thirty years of age. He, I think, is aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s followers; their swaggering and overbearing manner causes them to be hated by the inhabitants; they are some 300 miles from home, and when food gets scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide his time,” and eventually be recalled when they cannot do without him. The foreign ministers waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation worthy of a more civilised nation!

[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]

On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by the _Sylvia_, having had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch sent to the settlement to take us over the bar. Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we got away from the Legation. We, a large party, consisting of Captains Stanhope and Brooker, Mitford, Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant Fuller and others, descended the river in native boats from a creek at the back of the Legation.

On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh breeze from southward and a ripple on the water, although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient to show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In addition to _Rodney’s_ launch we had the steam cutter of the _Sylvia_, which we took in tow. By the time we reached the mouth of the river it was too dark to judge of the state of the bar, although we could plainly see the white tops of the waves against the darkness beyond. We could also discern the ships-of-war at anchor outside.

[Sidenote: Corvé Bay.]

Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from the late heavy rains, we pushed on, and in a few minutes found ourselves plunging into a head sea, the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that retreat was too late, our only chance being to have steerage way enough to keep the boat’s head to the sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her, threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling power lay in steam, as, with the engine in the boat, no room is left for the oars to work, only a portion of the crew being sent on such occasions.

Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling, the weight of the engine was sufficient to take her down like a stone. We were not long in casting off the _Sylvia’s_ cutter to take care of herself. We hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In that we were mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling the water was gaining on us, and as the boat got heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be the last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the current had carried us past the _Sylvia_, and we dared not turn the boat’s head in that direction without certain destruction from the seas that would inevitably have broken over her broadside.

The next few were anxious minutes, until we came under the lee of _La Place_, French frigate, which providentially lay just on our line ahead. We were drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness and attentions of Captain Emot and the officers of _La Place_. To get on board the frigate was out of the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom with a Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end.

[Sidenote: Hiogo.]

However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied us with all we required, even a tin of sardines, which the natives helped to get rid of, and mulled wine. Between 10 and 11 P.M. a lull took place, and we succeeded in getting to the _Sylvia_, and in the morning weighed for Hiogo, having first ascertained that the cutter was safe inside the river.

We afterwards heard that within a minute of being cast off she filled with a second sea, but being fitted with air-tight compartments as a life-boat, she was sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the engine. By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore part of the boat they succeeded in getting her head round, and drifted in again before the wind.

The following morning Admiral Bell, the American Commander-in-Chief, attempted to cross the bar in his twelve-oared barge, which capsized, when himself, Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned. We sailed in _Rodney_ on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama on 13th.

[Sidenote: Yokohama, Jan. 19.]

On 19th went in _Firm_ to visit the Naval Yard establishment for instruction of Japanese under the able management of Commander Tracey, assisted by Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of an engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners. The pupils consisted of between seventy and eighty Japanese lads, all the sons of officers and respectable people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark of rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged building, with cabin, and bunks like those on board passenger ships: each cabin containing two students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged after their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was carried on at tables with seats. They had their rigging and engineer lofts, a section of a frigate’s maindeck with portholes and guns. This was rendered necessary, as, although the establishment bordered on the sea, the water was too shoal to admit of any man-of-war approaching near enough to be available for such purposes. They had, however, a small brigantine moored close by, and boats to teach them the practical part of a seaman’s work.

No nation ever went through such changes, and so great a revolution, although still incomplete, in so short a time and with so little bloodshed. But internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday night of our arrival and the greater part of Sunday fires were blazing in five or six different parts of the city. This proved to be all property belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering it with so high a hand over the Tycoon at Miako. A steamer of his that attempted to go to sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be much damage done, it is the beginning of a Civil War which must decide which is to be the strongest and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that strongest of all earthly powers, the majority of the people, has not as yet been thought of as having anything to do with their differences. It will be curious to watch the progress of events.

The most influential and dangerous party now are the ignorant, idle, lazy, two-sworded followers and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal chiefs--scoundrels who are alike a curse to their masters as well as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive, and so near to the British Legation that two young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their guests, two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought it advisable to clear out. Having deposited their goods on board the _Firm_, they came to the Naval Yard establishment for board and lodging.

We were disturbed just as we were preparing for dinner by the body of one of the American gentlemen being borne in on the shoulders of five men, and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and search made, but no wound being discovered, he was given some hot brandy and water, when it transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone off in the pocket of his _pants_. He sat up and ate a very good dinner, but blood having been discovered under his chair, it was thought advisable to make a further examination on our arrival next day in the _Firm_ at Yokohama.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]

The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on 20th, we sailed the following day, and arrived off Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the bar before dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, _Rodney_ going on to Corvé Bay. News had already reached Osaka of the burnings and doings at Yedo.

[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]

On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for a while; my intention to leave Captain Stanhope of _Ocean_ in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some 2000 strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports of disaffection on part of Satsuma’s followers; most likely provisions failing.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

Shifted flag to _Adventure_, and took leave of Japan for a while. _Rodney_ to follow.

[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]

Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with regard to the new Naval Yard to be established on the right bank of Woosung River.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Shifted flag to _Salamis_.

[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Feb. 10.]

Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 A.M. _Rodney_ arrived 2.30 P.M. Shifted flag to her. Each successive mail from northward brought accounts of the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom the Tycoon had sent against the disaffected princes had been met by Satsuma’s followers and dispersed. The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of Yedo, leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt. The Foreign Legations had quitted Osaka the best way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under the protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want of courage and retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur Roches, the French Minister. The French having embarked large sums in the construction of docks and other works, were pecuniarily interested in the stability of the Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches retired to Yokohama, and would likely have continued his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped by the newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur Ohier.

[Sidenote: Japan. Flag in _Rodney_.]

Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado, in whose name Satsuma, Tosa, Chion, and other Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon. Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the westward; his line of march lay through Hiogo, and skirted the territory which had been allotted and already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his main body came up and were abreast of the Foreign Settlement, the not uncommon order for all to prostrate themselves was given. Two French seamen who were on the road attempted to cross the line of troops and were charged with spears. In the confusion the officer in command of Bozin’s troops gave the order to fire, an order which was immediately obeyed; but, as in all probability it was the first time the Japs had ever to fire in earnest, no great damage was done, but the alarm was sounded: the Minister’s guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment turned out, marines and seamen from our man-of-war (_Ocean_) hurried on shore.

Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry Parkes, with Captain Stanhope, was returning from a walk, attended by two dismounted men of the Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across the open space which had been cleared for the Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital pot-shots for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it all their own way; but by the end of that time the 9th were advancing, and in a few minutes afterwards Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra weight, dispersed towards the hills with the agility of monkeys. Parkes came up with, and captured, three brass guns. Two French and one American had been wounded.

Nothing could have happened worse or more inopportunely for the disaffected chiefs, whose last wish it was to offend the foreigners, while we (the foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole business, demanding ample apologies from the Mikado himself, and nothing short of the execution of the officer who had given the order. All this was conceded, and eventually carried out.

* * * * *

Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to attend the ceremony of Hara-Kari, sent me a description of it, which is inserted later.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]

Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute, anniversary of General Washington’s birth. Flag in _Rodney_.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

_Tamar_ arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama.

[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]

French frigate _La Place_ arrived with Admiral Ohier.

[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]

United States S.S. _Hartford_, Commodore Gouldisborough, sailed; cheered him on quitting the station.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Weighed under plain sail and ran through the Lyemoon Pass.

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