CHAPTER CII

CLOSE OF CHINA COMMAND

[Sidenote: 1869. Yedo, Sept. 1.]

Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. Invited by H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, at whose disposal this delightful residence was placed but yesterday. Proceedings have first to be recorded. The day commenced with heavy rain, which continued, but the Duke had decided on hoisting the royal standard at 8 A.M., landing in state, and holding a levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the Legation at 11. Having previously gone on board and been saluted by all the men-of-war present at 10.30, we left the _Galatea_ in the Prince’s barge. Yards manned and another royal salute.

H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from the 10th regiment, another of French marines, while the road was lined up to the Legation by the 10th and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was cheered from the yards of his own ship on leaving, which was repeated by such ships as he passed in his way. Had the weather been anything but rainy, the whole thing would have had a grand effect. After the levée we had luncheon at the Legation, then the Prince, putting on shooting jacket and _Rodney_ hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. having visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had a very fair inspection; many things were selected and put aside for future bargainings.

[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]

I was on board _Galatea_ by 9 A.M. At 10 we started in steam launch for Kanagawa, where Parkes had sent his carriages and mounted escort. In the first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford (latter told off expressly for attendance on the Prince); the other brought Elliot Yorke, Haig, and Adams.

Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only _contretemps_ being the springs of our vehicle breaking down and causing us twice to alight for repairs; but the Japanese roads, however good they may have been, are not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now existing between Yedo and Yokohama. We were preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs, while innumerable small guards turned out and presented arms after their own demi-French instruction.

At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, and the party appointed by the Japanese Government to attend His Royal Highness. No place could have been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely furnished in European style, while the walls were covered with curiously painted Japanese paper. A guard of twenty-five marines had arrived before us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a similar number of Japs, who formerly belonged to the Tycoon, and had been well drilled by the French. In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent bronze vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, etc., one of the presents from the Mikado. After luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a Prince of the Royal blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective houses. We strolled through the pretty, well-kept grounds, made to look as little formal and like nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every kindness and consideration, selecting a room next that occupied by himself, consulting me as to costume for dinner. And on my suggesting round jackets as the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace trousers, which appeared to be the mess dress of _Galatea_. Dinner quiet, and good coffee, the best I have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long after dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to his future movements, hoping I would give him concise orders while within the limits of the station, so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we might arrange the same.

I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness about his narrow escape at Sydney; he kindly showed me the wound at the right of the spine--a hole into which I could thrust the end of my little finger.

Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent volumes of about 14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, containing coloured pictures--in fact, a complete history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could purchase. In front of the Prince’s window were large China bowls containing beautiful broad-tailed specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed trees, etc., all of which His Royal Highness was to consider his own.

[Sidenote: Palace of the Mikado, Japan, Sept. 3.]

It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we managed to get over to a covered-in place within the Palace grounds to see a combat of swords and spears. Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords were of bamboo. The practice was interesting enough; heavy blows and thrusts were exchanged. An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and steel masks. Armour on the left side, as far down as the waist.

After bowing to the audience, the combatants saluted one another: on the same principle, I suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring shake hands before punching one another’s heads. When the supposed fatal blow was given, the vanquished walked off, while the victor uncovered his head and “kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long spears were conducted on same principle. The men were selected from the Japanese guard.

The Minister said that had he educated the warriors of different Daimios they would be sure to fight it out afterwards to the death if different chiefs’ followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to arrange a revised route for _Galatea_, she being three weeks behind time. Having duly considered the whole, and what Kellett might have had to say had he not been pitched on his head before leaving England, which delayed his arrival, we were of opinion that I should give up the San Francisco route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my successor at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph to the Board accordingly.

The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon a man of Mitford’s came with curios--apparently a bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two swords, which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the owner had names written, which he pronounced to be certificates of their manufacture by an extinct artist. The Prince paid some £80, and to my mind there is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford too.

[Sidenote: Yedo.]

We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of the Tycoons, situated in the midst of a well-wooded garden or park. The most beautiful temples and elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were allowed to inspect everything, being in company of His Royal Highness.

On reaching home we found mats before the door and preparations for jugglers: wonderfully clever; and here, as in other parts of the world, there was music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown. To-morrow we are to have a procession and the Prince’s visit to the Mikado, which we look forward to as rather a bore.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams joined the dinner last night. After that we had conjurors; the pretty butterfly trick was beautifully performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this morning my gold watch, which I have had for forty years, and which I had given to my dear boy, has disappeared--I think while I was taking my bath.

[Sidenote: Sept. 5.]

I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, having engaged the servants, offered to guarantee their honesty with his life, or rather undergo torture on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought against any one of them. However, before breakfast was announced, the culprit was discovered to be the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only was my watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money belonging to others were found in his possession. The only difficulty now will be to save the unfortunate wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty marines having been landed from the _Adventure_, we had a late breakfast, and with the Legation mounted escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a way, we proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence within the moat and castle walls.

[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]

The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, and, in fact, the only ones admitted into the same room as His Majesty. No presentations took place and everything was as formal as need be, but exceedingly curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of the castle, which are very extensive. Mitford acted as interpreter, and the exclusiveness surrounding the Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid of which a miniature of himself was set in diamonds.

After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in the evening. Performers all women; acting supposed to be very good, and the greatest decorum preserved throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a game of cup and ball on a large scale, which took place on a plot of ground railed off for the occasion. A number of horsemen, about eight on each side, compete in throwing the greatest number of balls through a hole in a planking at the end of the ground, which is about two hundred yards in length by twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The riders are distinguished by their costume, which is very picturesque. Each man is armed with a staff of bamboo, about five feet long, at the end of which is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up the balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the ground on the opposite end from the board in which the hole is.

They then ride towards it and throw the ball at the hole and go back for another. The balls bound back within the enclosed ground, and are again picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They jostle one another, knock the balls from each other’s staffs, pick up and throw altogether away the balls of their adversaries. A signal from behind points out the number and colour of the balls that have passed through the hole.

The next thing was the interior of a great Daimio’s Palace and to be entertained in regular Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio selected for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose income is estimated at £800,000 a year. He was absent, but a Prince of Japan was there to receive and do the honours.

A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. We had to sit on the mats and eat with chop-sticks, drink cups of hot _saki_ with the chief men, into which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. In front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and a selection of plays performed during the feast. This was done by the retainers of the Daimio, according to ancient custom. The actors were men; the chief performers wore masks. The dresses were gorgeous, and looked as if new for the occasion. We did not understand the language, but Mitford had kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The motion of the actors was so exactly like that of a turkey cock with his tail spread out, that any one who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.

After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking boxes were brought from the theatre and placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection. On being opened they proved to be the masks that had been used on this occasion, four in number, carved out of wood and painted. There was the lovely face of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. After this we pulled on our boots, mounted, and rode away, escorted as before, taking rather a circuitous route that the Prince might see something more of the city. On getting home found that Stanhope had come up to stay with Adams.

A covered place has been erected in front of the house for the acrobats, so convenient that you see everything from a chair in the verandah. Another such place has also sprung up, which looks like an equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for wrestling. In fact, nothing has been forgotten by these kind and hospitable people that can add to the comfort or amusement of our Prince.

I forgot to mention that after our return on Saturday we found the falconers waiting in full costume. The hawking, however, was very tame. A small species of water-rat was driven out of the ditches, which a small hawk clawed before it had gone 5 yards.

[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]

Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is conducted with much order and ceremony. The Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs to luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded to see the combat.

One side of the square, which must have been about 80 yards, was covered in and fitted with chairs and seats for the Prince and his friends. On the raised platform in the centre, which was about 20 feet square, and likewise roofed over, was an altar, on which incense was offered to propitiate some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, and went through certain mystic movements, clapping of hands, extending arms, then legs, stamping heavily with first one foot, hands resting on one knee, then the other.

This over, they retired to a small building erected at the corner near the end of the building in which the Prince and his guests sat, and from which to the platform there was a pathway railed off. Another party then issued from the opposite corner at the other end of the Prince’s stand, and went through the same ceremony. After these had retired, a herald summoned a man from each side. Certain ceremonies were again gone through. A friendly pinch of salt was brought by each and mixed with the soil on which they stood; they extended the arms and stamped and kow-towed and then squatted and watched each other like two game-cocks, until the signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang at each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did not observe anything peculiar in that manner of wrestling. There must have been as many as a hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the champions was reserved for the last and was exceedingly fine. The good Prince Nwajima and the smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange guests.

After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds were lighted up, and from one of the summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed some inferior fireworks, but the best these good people could produce. In another pavilion was a native band in full costume, probably the Mikado’s. The night was calm and fine. On return from the Legation, I found in my room a present from His Majesty in the shape of a handsome sword.

Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed some of the most extraordinary balancing ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his back balances on the soles of his feet four small things piled on one another. One of them was a glass bowl with fish in it; another, a bird-cage with a canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected nearly at right angles from a bamboo-tree growing out of the upper box--difficult to describe, as I never saw the like.

After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: all good in its way, the scenery being so picturesque.

[Sidenote: Yedo to Yokohama, Sept. 7.]

Events, although small, have followed each other so rapidly as to leave no time to write. By 10 A.M. on the 8th, Princes of the blood royal, Prince Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled at the summer palace to accompany the Duke on board the _Galatea_, she having come over from Yokohama on the previous evening, where they were to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. The _Ocean_ and _Pearl_ came over early in the morning. The morning had been rainy, but held up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside the islands, and as the tide was falling we cast off, and pulled on board the ships which were anchored between five and six miles from the shore. As we approached, the ships broke their masthead flags, manned yards, and fired royal salutes; looking as no other nation’s ships can look--ropes taut and yards square. Everything was most successful. The afternoon turned out fine, without being too hot. The royal visitors took their departure in _Ocean_ steam-launch at about 3.30 P.M., yards manned, and another salute. Our Prince’s royal standard was, after giving the steam-launch proper time to get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in its place; and then the signal made to weigh.

We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored at sunset, when the flag was transferred to the _Ocean_. On landing, it was evident, by the concourse of people, that the Prince was expected. He, however, preferred remaining in his own snug quarters on board, and I took advantage of the Legation carriage to get a lift up the hill. In the morning I went down to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the bungalow off my hands, and then into Curio Street, where I invested $800 for H.R.H. in bronzes; also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the 10th (Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.

[Sidenote: Yokohama Sept. 12.]

_Sabbath._--Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent our attending divine service. A great dinner was given on Friday night at the Legation, including the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as were in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding ships, followed by a ball, our countrywomen appearing to advantage. Prince tired; made his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which he danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.

H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, approving of our curry, and then went home to be tatooed. The merchants having kindly determined on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains invited to meet me.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

The kind friends who had decided on entertaining me at a parting dinner determined no expense or trouble should be spared. The press, too, entered cordially into the idea, and each had its leading article puffing me up to any extent. There was one painful part in all this to me: the speech which it entailed, that I had to prepare; although no preparation was necessary, one could think of nothing else. On Monday (13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the party who saw the Mikado at Yedo, were photographed by Beato. Inspected afterwards the _Salamis_; clean and improved.

On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable shrubs in my bungalow ground. They had formed part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in which the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening the dinner came off.

[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]

Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; about eighty sat down, including the Minister, Chief-Justice Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman, and Captains of ships--among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. My staff were also among the guests; _Ocean’s_ band in great form. Behind the head of the table was a place screened by flower-pots, where the wife and a few ladies were stowed.

Got through my speech better than I expected; the whole thing was a complete success and ended by my being carried on the shoulders of my entertainers round the tables, preceded by the Prince’s Highland piper! Yesterday we had plenty to do, packing up and shifting on board _Salamis_, intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with wife and chicks on board _Salamis_. It was determined to wait no longer for the mail, or our time at Peking must be cut short.

On a signal from _Salamis_ at 3 P.M., _Galatea_, _Ocean_, and _Pearl_ weighed, and formed into line. All the foreign men-of-war manned rigging and cheered. The _Galatea_ had just fired a parting salute to Sir Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a royal salute, returned by _Galatea_. The American Admiral gave me a parting salute, which _Ocean_ returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed with flags, and a large American steamer, with a greater part of the community and _Delaware’s_ band on board, accompanied our little squadron, led by _Salamis_. After standing down the bay some miles at half-speed, the American steamer _Nautilus_ passed up the line with many ladies on board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who would so cordially co-operate with him. Our friendship was of long standing; his friendly grasp at parting was touching! I met him first when he was a boy, and I commanded _Dido_ in 1842. In 1858, he wrote--“Oh for a Keppel, just for one month.”

* * * * *

I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ monument unveiled in St. Paul’s Cathedral.

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