CHAPTER LXXXIX

THE CHINA COMMAND

[Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.]

We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.

Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was, however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would have been impossible to have dislodged any game.

During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines.

[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]

We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to Gower’s house, where he and his friends, the Japanese officers, had provided ponies. Another party had gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two miles to the eastward, up which we had heard of trout and salmon. Our ride, although hot, was an agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our party of Mitford. On arrival we found the Japanese Governor, a man of no great rank, had kindly provided a feast at his residence. The Japanese are proverbial for their cleanliness, and floors covered with mats. We found this second to none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the exception of sweetmeats and cakes, a Japanese feast is a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish, uncooked ditto, and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.

We walked afterwards to that part of the village where the Jonos dwell. They are an extraordinary-looking race; short and square built, but the great peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends to their face and body. Their houses were cleaner than other savages, but that is probably owing to the force of example set them by the Japanese. They live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are allowed to do under certain restrictions. One is that the skins are sold to the Government. Each village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off which they eventually have a grand feast and consume much saki.

The only curio obtained was one presented to me by the chief--a slip of wood, the size of a large paper-cutter, but carved on it were the figures of a Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of fish and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument was to lift the hair of the upper lip so as to clear the way for the bowl of saki, which it was essential should be drank at the feast of the bear. During the operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet for the feast, the old women are allowed to howl and cry.

[Sidenote: Friday, Aug. 1.]

I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the Commodore preferred trying their hand at the salmon, which were just arriving on the coast.

An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a valley down which a small rivulet runs, and up which the tram or railway is being constructed, brought us to the coal-mine, into which--more to please Mr. Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting--I crept, half-doubled, through mud and water. After expressing my satisfaction, and taking a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered with timber and brushwood, and rendered still more interesting to Mr. Gower by the vast seams of coal underneath, the line of which he seemed to know as exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we wended our way back on foot, collecting several specimens of the land helix.

When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling, and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat. They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr. Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party. We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy steam.

[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]

Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar, they left soon after daylight.

[Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.]

Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks.

The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30, fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour! However, they did not molest or interfere.

Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them. The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way. On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple, but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor, whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the Governor would call on me there, I went back.

Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and after we had had some tea and fruit, and had waited about a quarter of an hour, the mob at the entrance gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in advance, announcing the Governor’s approach. He arrived, mounted on a remarkably nice strong pony, but dismounted at the end of the road and approached on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive him. The usual commonplace conversation took place as to weather. How old we were, and how well we all looked; all of which was taken down in writing, before we took our departure. I was rather struck with the appearance of the Governor, apparently superior in intellect to the generality of his countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.

We got under way at 3 P.M., intending, according to agreement with Sir Harry Parkes, to go to Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end of the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing the land, we made out our two consorts at anchor off a village, which proved to be Oda. We came to with them and remained for the night.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]

Weighed together at 5 A.M., Sir Harry having made arrangements to meet the Governor at Ongi, a small bay on the south-west side, and then to visit the gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on foot. I preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of hares and pheasants in abundance.

We came to in a snug little port, which required some caution in approaching, but was protected by rocks sufficiently numerous and high to break the force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game produced many sportsmen, but the weather being sultry, vegetation high, and no dogs, I waited the result. The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2 ducks, and 8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they came on board, and stood out under easy steam.

[Sidenote: Manao, Aug. 7.]

8 A.M.--Came to in four fathoms off Manao. Found a steamer with the Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. Hitherto we had visited only such ports as belonged to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of these feudal princes. Whether this will be the treaty port to be opened on the west coast, some one besides the Tycoon will have to be consulted.

About midday _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_ arrived. The authorities on shore had sent off to the capital notice of the intended visit of our Minister. Prince Kaga had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, his Port of Manao, is the best situated and the finest harbour on the west coast. The other port of Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to the southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too near to Osaka. Nigata would do well if no vessels larger than junks wanted to enter the river: no safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully promised to open whatever port on the west coast we may decide on.

[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]

It was on the morning of the third day, Friday 9th, that a dozen of the Daimio’s officers arrived, and immediately waited on Sir Harry Parkes on board the _Basilisk_. The interview was long, but not satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade they had, and did not wish theirs to be made a treaty port. They were very civil and polite. Their Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no one: no encouragement. But I have a great idea that our Minister will carry his point, although I do not see my way. Nothing would unite these Damios so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to coerce one of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a lesson. Seaton and Mitford were sent overland to Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey I should think. At 5 P.M. we got under way for Nagasti, to be followed by _Basilisk_. _Serpent_ left to survey the harbour.

[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Aug. 12.]

On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the cruel murder of two seaman of the _Icarus_, Lord Charles Scott. The poor fellows had fallen asleep outside a tea-house, when some passing Yakomins slashed their bodies with their two-handed swords, almost cutting them in two. My first step was to communicate the facts to the Hon. Minister in Japan, in the hope that the crime might be traced to its source. Suspicion fell on some of Prince Tosa’s retainers.

[Illustration: _Charlie Scott._]

Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of Awa. We were received in a magnificent feudal castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was accompanied by two or three members of the Legation, Suttie, Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant. On first arrival our presents were sent in, and then we were presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the Prince took the head of the table; his guests were arranged according to rank. Half-way down, the table was depressed some feet below the level of the upper table, and here his subordinate officers were entertained, illustrating the “below the salt” of our feudal times. The officer plied us with warm saki, but its effects showed sooner on our tempters than on ourselves.

Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, who welcomed us to his territory, and, pointing to a recess full of Japanese curios, expressed a hope we would take with us some specimens of the manufactures of the country, as indeed we did, none leaving without a present.

Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course we could not follow. On retiring to rest we found that a four-poster bed had been rigged up for each of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and a pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, the Prince having evidently been informed that such conditions were essential to the everyday life of an Englishman.

[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]

Weighed and stood to the south-east.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

Came to off entrance to the Peiho.

[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]

Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night.

[Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.]

Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed.

Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants, camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached these stone representations in evident recognition.

[Sidenote: Oct.]

We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an admirable dinner.

Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein, Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road.

I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs; all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday.

[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]

This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_ at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_. Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting coast.

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