CHAPTER CI
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Ocean_, July 31.]
Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far East! Japs making great preparations to receive the Duke of Edinburgh.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, Aug. 2.]
Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on China affairs; few people better able to form an opinion than our two guests. All agreed how lamentably misinformed our Government is.
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Parkes, and Newton dined with us. In the night we were disturbed by a row in the domestic department. A big negro caulker had been visiting in the village, and returned at 3 A.M., having been rolled in the mud a foot deep. He made for the kitchen, where his appearance terrified the Chinese cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal being removed to his ship, he admitted to its having been caused by keeping low company, as if there could be anything lower than himself. He had affected while on board a religious turn of mind.
_Sylvia_ arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called this morning, proposed a party on board his ship to visit “Die Boots.”
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Starting at an early hour to go on board _Sylvia_, was unable to finish remarks for preceding day. On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced the arrival of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both American and French up to 3rd July, my mind was set at rest about chance of promotion and relief, the mail bringing news up to June 18, which pronounced “Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my eye was a small envelope with “_Telegraph_” in the corner, which sure enough contained all that I had been dreading for a year. It was from the Admiralty, July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”: it ordered me to Singapore to meet my relief, who would be there on September 3.
In fact, I was to go tearing down against the monsoon in _Salamis_, with her worn-out boilers, when my relief could come up in half the time, before the wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing the Red Sea in the month of September.
As there are two routes, and no detriment to the Service thereby, I determined on waiting at Yokohama. The time has come at last, my reign nearly over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were not for the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should proceed on my way home rejoicing.
We got under way yesterday in the _Sylvia_ at 10 A.M. Our party consisted of Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller, and ourselves; everything successful but the weather, which continued rainy and misty. We anchored off the bay at 11, and having made an excellent breakfast, proceeded in steam launch. Another boat brought the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who liked to come.
The channel, except at high water, when you can make a straight course, is difficult. However, with the assistance of a native pilot, we got into the tea-house at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of an hour, pedestrians, horsemen (our ponies had been sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs were fairly under way.
The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather, and slow progress of chairs over slippery ground, everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand walking the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in all his grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I saw it two years ago, the inside has been desecrated with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact, there is a native who makes a small fortune by attending with a ladder, brush, and red paint for all those who wish to immortalize their lady-love’s or their own interesting names!
Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon was far advanced before we were on our return. The slippery paths made progress so slow that it was dark by the time we reached our boats; the tide, although falling, was still high, and with the help of our natives and the ship in the offing well lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had promised to dine with us. We partook of Brooker’s hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent _dinner_. The _Sylvia_ under way anchored at 10.30. By 11.30 we were at home; by 12.30 at midnight we were well shaken by an earthquake!
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
_Pearl_, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross, arrived under sail from Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and Miller dined with us. Inspected _Sylvia_, in very nice order. Flag hoisted at 8 A.M.
[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
Rougemont, “First” of _Ocean_, came in evening full of distress at a boat full of officers having been missing for two days, and without grub. Active and energetic steps immediately taken by Parkes: the Consular Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the Japanese Government despatching couriers by sea and land. It appeared afterwards that Rougemont had been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing might have returned in his absence from the ship, which, in fact, they had, and the whole of them had well fed and turned in an hour before this smart “First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant, and small blame to him.
[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by a royal salute in honour of the birthday of the Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships in harbour.
[Sidenote: Aug. 17.]
Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest nuisance one has to contend with by day, as well as by night, are the mosquitoes.
[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]
Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of 17th, where I went to meet our letters on their landing from _Salamis_. Ascertained that the death of Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A telegram from Admiralty extending the time that I should meet my relief at Singapore to the 19th September. If they had taken that date into consideration at first, I might have been down there in time, but now the 19th will be as inconvenient as the 3rd September was a fortnight ago. The telegram also contained directions to assemble as large a naval force as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but its destination could not be made out. No public news. Admiralty permission given to dispense with _razors!_ for which I am sorry.
The death of Lieutenant Kent of the _Avon_ enabled me to promote Hammet (from _Rodney_), whose uncle was killed in the trenches before Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 A.M. inspected _Adventure_; clean and wholesome.
[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
Threatening weather: got wet through in our ride. Wilkinsons and Adams dined with us yesterday. Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning a typhoon.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Aug. 22.]
The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable damage. Marshall’s house nearly unroofed. Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down. Verandahs round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer, adrift, stove in _Salamis’s_ bows, carried away _Sylvia’s_ bowsprit, and did much more damage of less interest to me. Band played on the bluff.
[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration on the part of my friends the Admiralty in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon, to give up the command to a successor and my junior, when he might so much more easily come up to me at a saving of £1700 worth of fuel! Another hot day.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival of the _Galatea_, overdue. Phelps dined with us yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific Mail Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he ditto, but both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment also dined: she the daughter of the once charming Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon after.
[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed in the trip I had promised myself with the Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have now the difficulty of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but enormously dear. Our dinner-party included Dr. Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of Military Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies, but prices are 500 per cent above what they used to be. Got a ride with my boy, who begins to move faster than the Betto who leads the pony can stand. French mail arrived this morning, bringing French Admiral.
[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]
Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of the best nietschkies I have seen, but at the highest price. In the evening we got the contents of French mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is not my friend Henry, although news by last mail announced his being ill. _Penelope_ to be new flagship. Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned new French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old friend the American Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin I saw my photograph framed.
[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
Intended to have recorded passing events after church yesterday, but on coming out, the _Galatea_ was reported coming in (29).
[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and Mr. Lucas, Gambier (_Sylvia_), and Stanhope. I was restless during the night, which, added to occasional strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with my revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert, I placed the revolver on the dressing-table, which stood between the entrance to the bathroom and the side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again turned in. On awakening, found some expert thief had entered by the bathroom window, left open for air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of my wife’s boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the rascal appropriated my revolver and the clothes of my Flag-Lieutenant.
Several Japs had been seen about the grounds during the night by the orderlies, but in the unfinished state of outbuildings and grounds they had many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the builders was found placed against the bathroom windows, by which the rogue or rogues had entered.
After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me on board _Ocean_, where I went to receive the Captain of the _Galatea_; afterwards went unofficially on board _Galatea_ to talk over arrangements for landing, etc. H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney, and courteous, as he well knows how to be. We left him to read the contents of three mails.
Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made all sorts of arrangements, which were upset by His Royal Highness this morning. At 11 A.M. he landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know his plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on Colonel Norman, Acting Commander-in-Chief, and found Mrs. Norman.
On arrival of the _Galatea_, I was astonished to find His Royal Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H. not having heard of the Admiralty permission to grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama a few days previous to his arrival--a proof of H.R.H.’s strict idea of discipline, although he knew very well that I should not have interfered with the internal discipline of his ship.
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