CHAPTER LXXXV

BOUND FOR CHINA

[Sidenote: 1867. Malta, Mar. 2.]

It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March 2nd when we arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget came off; we landed together. Rem Macdonald kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the Carnival commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty House and re-embarked.

We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria on the 7th. Here, met my old friend James Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint Superintendent, with a military man, to attend the transit through Egypt of our troops to India. It was about four when we reached Cairo. Here we were joined by Harry Stephenson, who had come _viâ_ Southampton. We were informed that we were not to go on to Suez until the following day. A rush was made to secure beds. The best had been already bespoken by the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson had thought of us and secured rooms. The transit through Egypt is managed by the Government. Most of the officials are French and wear the fez and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the time, with equal ease.

[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]

We made another start at 10 A.M. and took a plentiful supply of oranges, which we found agreeable crossing the desert. At Suez I found another friend in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer _Surat_; we first became acquainted when he was in command of one of the hired transports at Balaklava. He kindly took me in his gig to visit the great dock and engineering works carried on by the French under M. de Lesseps. Time, money, and perseverance will, I believe, complete the great work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at no distant period of being able to pass a ship of the line from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea. No English capitalists have, however, invested a shilling in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for an amount of abuse, attributing our reluctance to share in the French glory to bad motives.

We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. Among our passengers was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers on Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. On Perim we have a lighthouse: some eight years ago, the mail steamer on passing observed a French brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the next day the French captain mentioned to Colonel Coghlan, the Governor of Aden, with whom he was dining, that he was going the next morning to take possession of Perim in the name of the French Government. Coghlan, without rising from table, or taking any apparent notice of what had been said, pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the Captain of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once with a party and hoist the British colours on the island. The French captain’s disappointment the next day when he found himself forestalled would have been worth seeing. A correspondence took place between the two Governments; when it was proved that we had prior possession during our war with France, when we retained Perim, but under a promise we should not fortify it.

Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or thereabouts.

[Sidenote: Aden, Mar. 14.]

Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. The Resident, Colonel Merewether, immediately sent off to invite me to Government House while the _Surat_ coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing place. It was pleasant to get into a cool airy house, and to write one’s letters in peace and quiet. After dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to see those wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, whose ancient date no one has been able to decide. The cement with which the rock’s sides and bottom of the ravine are lined, as well as the steps, is as perfect and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct was in progress, which will shortly bring a supply from a stream some six miles distant. Experienced much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.

[Sidenote: Galle, Mar. 23.]

The cleanliness and comfort of the _Surat_ spoilt us for any other vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at Point de Galle at 8 A.M. on the 23rd, we were transferred to _Ottawa_. The yards were manned as the last little attention the Captain could pay me on quitting the ship. On landing at Point de Galle I was received by Colonel Hodgson, Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore Keppel had been selected to act together for the capture of Belle Isle from the French: a friendship between the families was then established and has continued ever since. We passed the heat of the day in the “Queen’s House,” occupied by the General, who, after having entertained us at dinner, embarked with us on board the _Ottawa_: he going to the Straits Settlements on an official inspection.

We found the _Ottawa_ comparatively small, ill ventilated, with a suffocating smell of opium. But there was the same civility and attention that we had experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s ships.

[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 29.]

Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore during the six hours the steamer was to stay, and visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of former days still remaining.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, as well as by a good light on Cape Ricardo.

[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 31.]

Sunday at 2 P.M. the _Ottawa_ steamed alongside the P. and O. Company’s wharf in New Harbour, Singapore. Captains Edge of _Satellite_, Ross of _Pearl_, Menzies of _Osprey_, and Suttie of _Salamis_ were there to receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the Governor’s secretary, Mr. Plow, brother to a lad who was with me in the _Forte_. Many other friends were also there.

As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be installed in due form on the morrow, a few arrangements for salutes and officers’ attendance had to be made. At 3 P.M. my flag was hoisted on board the _Salamis_ and I became Commander-in-Chief of the China station, and, being senior, at once assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived the salute until the following morning. On landing was driven by friend Read to his house, where, by previous arrangement, took up my quarters.

[Sidenote: April 1.]

Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, each of which is crowned by a residence. On looking out in the early morning from the verandah, an extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, and from behind of the country inland. How many associations of bygone days--some sad, but many more, pleasant--were brought to mind.

The morning commenced by saluting my flag. At noon we repaired to the Town Hall to assist in the inauguration of the new Governor, and the transfer of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the Colonial Government. Separate salutes were fired on each occasion: an event in the history of Singapore.

[Sidenote: April 1 to 4.]

Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, which was close to a landing-place, for an office, and the business of the station under the new Chief was commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied much time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the Governor, the Military and Naval Commanders-in-Chief, were the order of the day. The weather was hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious dinners told.

[Sidenote: April 5.]

Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than was expected, the _Princess Royal_ hove in sight. It seldom happens that a Commander-in-Chief is relieved by a senior, and more than the usual amount of jealousy between those in command and those whose reign was so suddenly at an end took place. However, I found my old friend George King the same as ever. Inspected _Salamis_ and examined the comfortable quarters that had been fitted for the use of self and staff.

[Sidenote: April 6.]

Returned King’s visit; was received on board _Princess Royal_ with manned yards; finished with an excellent luncheon and inspection of the many curios collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus Hill on board in R.M.L.I.

[Sidenote: April 8.]

_Princess Royal_ was off at daylight. Had King been senior, I have no doubt but that he would have remained longer.

[Sidenote: April 13.]

The _Pearl_ started in advance of us for Sarawak. Ross had permission to use his own discretion about going up to the town. Paid a visit to the Tumongong of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. He has been to England, received at Court, and decorated with the Star of India.

[Sidenote: Singapore, April 14.]

Among the improvements at Singapore is an exceedingly neat and handsome church. No want of opportunities for writing to England, as the French packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. Company.

There are few ships without a favourite dog--in _Salamis_ Suttie has one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel and great favourite. On shore he can take his own part, although not too big. He is besides a good pointer as well as retriever.

[Sidenote: April 15.]

I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the _Satellite_ as well as that for our departure for Sarawak, Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong. Before leaving the _Salamis_, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the French Consul, who was very anxious that we should join his nation in avenging the defeat they had experienced last year at the hands of the Coreans.

While I was inspecting the _Satellite_, my friend General Hodgson, with Colonel Young, went on board the _Salamis_, which then got under weigh, W. H. Read and Goodlake with us. _Satellite_ hoisted flag and saluted the General on his leaving. There was consternation on board on its being discovered that Carlo was nowhere to be found. His description was written out and a reward offered on shore for his recovery, but it was unfortunately the season when the policemen are directed to destroy all stray dogs. Alas, poor Carlo!

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, April 16.]

Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa Palm islands floating ahead, and not having gone to quarters when I inspected the _Salamis_, I thought this would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters and opened fire on the floating island.

In the middle of the rushing about incidental to going to quarters, and with the first cartridge, who should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping with delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome little dog! the last time the magazine was opened was on Sunday, when the gunner went down at 8.40 P.M. to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it being dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he existed or what his feelings were in that atmosphere he knows best. If I had not fancied the Nipa Palm for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered or starved to death.

[Sidenote: April 17.]

[Sidenote: Sarawak.]

Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; before eight we had passed the Santobong entrance, and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. These bold headlands and magnificent scenery, although I had visited them frequently since, brought fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, when I first came up in the _Dido_ with James Brooke on board, and gave the first, and nearly the only, help he ever had in securing his position; thereby enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for the benefit of a strange race. If he has not succeeded to the full extent of his, then, sanguine hopes, still there is no man living or to come who, single-handed, will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent Brooke has.

In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were the order of the day. The sail of a peaceful trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a fisherman’s hut along the length of this beautiful coast. Far into the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred on one another. Now, how different! Huts and fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast; the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the _Dido_ had scarcely 800 inhabitants, now has a population of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of the aborigines who called themselves warriors are now peaceful traders and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is fast being cleared to make way for farms; and to prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle--far from being the most productive soil that could be found--where everything that is likely to thrive within the tropics will be introduced into this model farm. Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and oranges were doing well. Rice and sago, mulberry trees to feed silkworms, were all in progress.

On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we found the _Pearl_ had proceeded up, drawing over 19 feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up this beautiful river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which I so nearly lost the _Dido_, I found that my ill-luck in finding the bottom had not forsaken me. I believe the helm was ported to avoid running down a canoe that attempted to cross our bows. And we were bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide we did not remain, but we knew not until long afterwards what mischief was done.

On approaching the capital, the _Pearl_ saluted my flag, and after coming to an anchor higher up, she hoisted the flag and saluted that of Sarawak. A guard of honour received me on landing, where I was met by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, now Tuan Muda. He had changed his name to that of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a name he was then unfit for! _Pearl_ had not escaped the _Dido_ rocks, and Captain Ross brought on board _Salamis_ a piece of false keel and sheets of copper, which divers found displaced! These accidents are sad bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to establish a reputation at the Admiralty as a cautious and careful chief.

[Sidenote: April 18.]

_Pearl_ started against the afternoon flood-tide to precede us to Labuan. We remained a few days to enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan Muda, who repeatedly expressed the good effect our visit would have--the influence which would be felt to the farther end of the Rajah’s dominions.

All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah Laut” (Sea King) as they styled me, but most of my original friends who had fought for the suppression of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of that stirring time were fresh in the memory of the children, and old Patingi Alli’s son was now one of the principal chiefs, a most useful and worthy man. His gallant old father was killed with many others while serving with the _Dido’s_ boats.

In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda along a two-mile road, cut through that ever interesting and magnificent jungle.

[Sidenote: April 20.]

About three in the afternoon we took our departure, the Tuan Muda having supplied us with turkeys and geese that would have done credit to a Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three Dyak swords, some deer horns and alligators’ eggs, were among the curios we brought away.

The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, with a determination not to be surpassed, with a sense of justice--qualifications fully appreciated by the chiefs.

[Sidenote: Labuan, April 22.]

8 A.M.--Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. Several old friends came on board--Hugh Low, Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. Treacher, one of the Rajah’s earliest followers. Each of them I had known some twenty years before. All the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard to receive me on landing, when I became the guest of my friend Low. His daughter has just come out from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite seventeen. Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and came out with me in the _Mæander_. I was present at her wedding with Low. The poor girl died at Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, was but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one of the loveliest spots of Low’s beautiful garden, hidden from view by a grove of orange trees. The boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De Crespigny kindly added to my collection of shells. Harry Stephenson and self were put up at Government House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being the bearer of a letter from Yelverton, were received elsewhere.

_Salamis_ proceeded in the afternoon to Coal Point. The island of Labuan having been ceded by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession of in the name of the Government by Captain Rodney Mundy under Sir Thomas Cochrane, on account of the coal mines. These mines, owing to bad management and a jobbing company, have not succeeded as they might have done, but the island has been useful in other ways. Our occupation has driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still rife to the eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has likewise had a check, and their treatment on the opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known that slaves have only to escape to British territory to be free. Power has passed from the Sultan and his chiefs.

We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has been replaced by a native agent. The United States are represented by a disagreeable scamp named Moss, who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded the Sultan to cede to him a portion of the north-eastern coast, as well as some of the adjacent islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just claim; fortunately no valid agreement was drawn up. When Mr. Moss had to make a first deposit, no money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman, by name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go partners on condition that the property ceded was to be placed in his name.[4] The title-deeds were returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and the Sultan retained the title-deeds, which Mr. Moss wished to have returned to him.

[4] This portion of the island was ceded to the British North Borneo Company by Royal Charter in 1881.

As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he decided on the dodge of setting fire to his own house, and accused the Sultan of having instigated his people to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the detention of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. But the cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact of his having removed his wife and small effects to Labuan a few days previously, and then the statement that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, which no one heard, are facts.

On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode through the magnificent jungle peculiar to Labuan, by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought us there. At 10 A.M. went on board _Pearl_, under manned yards, and inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed in the afternoon for Hong-Kong; we took until night to complete coal and followed in the morning; steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect of fine weather.

##