CHAPTER XCII

THE CHINA COMMAND

[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Yokohama, Apr. 6.]

_Rattler_, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good fellow, but subject to fits. Obliged to send him to hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under her new flag.

[Sidenote: Apr. 25.]

Poor Swan departed this life.

[Sidenote: Apr. 26.]

Appointed Harry Stephenson to command _Rattler_ and Keppel Garnier to be Flag-Lieutenant.

[Sidenote: May 9.]

Proceeded down the bay, _Rattler_ in company.

[Sidenote: May 17.]

Came to in Corvé Bay.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag in _Rodney_. With _Ocean_ to Osaka. Flag saluted by the French frigate _Dupleix_. Came to off the bar. Self and Captains were presented to the Mikado by Sir Harry Parkes. With Minister, accompanied by staff, we were carried up through the streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes presented credentials, and we were introduced severally to the Mikado. All the chief nobles were prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of sixteen. The streets were lined with kneeling Japanese.

[Sidenote: Osaka, May 23.]

Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney and _Ocean_.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki. Japan may well be called the “Gem of the Sea” from her geographical position, her magnificent harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which might be rendered impregnable. It is a rich country, with mines of coal and iron, fisheries, and a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike by Russia, America, and France; and its possession would enable the power holding to monopolise the whole trade in China.

The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of Russia towards Japan. They see that in ten years China has yielded to that country 900 miles of coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan, which has harbours open at all seasons of the year, while Russia’s boundary line on the islands off the coast has brought her to the door of Japan.

It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position in Japan, in consideration of our vast Eastern trade, England and other nations, not wishing to acquire territory, will always be in a position to preserve the integrity of Japan.

America has discovered that Yokohama is the most convenient place for a depot of coal for her 4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United States Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended to establish store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war. Russia has already a small dockyard at Nagasaki.

The French have been, and are still, constructing docks, and have established, at the Japanese Government’s expense, a small colony at Yokosha, near Yokohama.

At present we have as good a footing in Japan as any other nation; our trade exceeds that of all others, and more British capital has been invested. I am urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building a naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious climate, and also a bungalow for the use of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, as there is nothing of the kind on the station.

It was proposed last year that I should visit the Gulf of Tartary and the Amoor River this summer. While at Peking in September, got Sir Rutherford Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur A. Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him to mention my intention to the Governor at Nicolai.

Our party was to have consisted of George Fitzroy, with his wife and children, Conolly, from the Peking Legation, and the Commodore. Fitzroy had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged to start earlier than he intended for a cruise in the P. and O. _Benares_. They had reached Yokohama the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in the _Rodney_ (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children remaining at Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark immediately on board _Rodney_, where he could have the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor Hill took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on May 19, and arrived at Nagasaki, May 28, passing through the inland sea, and unfortunately landed Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked.

The _Salamis_ arrived on 11th from Cheefoo, bringing Conolly, who had found his way from Peking. _Basilisk_ (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on 14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr. Hill pronounced Fitzroy in too precarious a state to embark, and kindly volunteered to remain behind.

[Illustration: _Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia._]

We had two other passengers, who promised to be of much use to us in Russian waters. One was a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent of the coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a German, but speaking the Russian language fluently; the other, Mr. Adams, the contractor, who had before been attending a Russian squadron in these seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage, known in the gunroom by the name of “Beef and Vegetables.”

From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter addressed to himself from the Russian Minister, Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written to Admiral Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and Coast, on the subject of my intended visit, that although he had not yet received an answer, he was sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour faire à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.”

[Sidenote: June 3.]

Leaving the _Rodney_ at Nagasaki, I took a week’s cruise in the _Sylvia_, surveying vessel, Commander Brooker, during which we passed through Hirado or Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed a survey of it.

[Sidenote: June 17.]

Soon after daylight we weighed in _Rodney_ and steamed out of Nagasaki Harbour, steering for the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait, which, since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly safe with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in Harris. Successfully performed this feat. _Rodney_ must have been by far the largest ship that ever went through. We then shaped a course to the westward of Iki, through the East Korea Strait, and to the northward along the Korean coast.

[Sidenote: Novogorod Harbour, June 20.]

Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the survey of Posietta Bay, the entrance to the harbour is difficult to find on a first visit; it is narrow, but safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen huts, did not look inviting, but the scenery round was fine: hills covered with fresh green pasturage and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours within extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was waited on by Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary charge. He had with him a garrison of fifty men, while about nine miles inland they had a large encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia, General Korsakof, and the Lieutenant-Governor, Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some miles distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed our arrival.

Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which they were slowly working with soldiers and such tools as they had, assisted just at this time by a dozen Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare, in which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and a thousand men, was then engaged.

When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island in about latitude 42° 40´ off the coast and claimed by the Russians, on which a party of about three hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was reported to be plentiful; and that the Russians had sent a gunboat to drive the Chinese away, who, being well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all this, we heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true, he had only lately returned from an expedition to the island of Mayatchni (called in our charts “Termination”).

Having no steamer available, he had started in a sailing vessel with 600 soldiers, including artillery, but as he was six days going the ninety miles, the Chinese received timely notice and had wisely decamped. When the major arrived he found three men only on the island: these he shot to prove who were the rightful owners of the soil, and then returned. The Chinamen, who appear to have come from Manchuria, succeeded in stirring up their countrymen and brought on this petty border warfare on which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged, and which will, in all probability, end in further aggression and annexation on the part of the Russians.

Whether His Excellency did not approve of our visiting his territory when he was engaged in so inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the return telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome, and with directions to the Major not to supply us with coal. The Major rather softened this by stating that they expected the Governors in their respective vessels, both of which would require coal; and certainly the small supply of about twenty tons we saw ready on the beach would not have helped us much.

During our stay fishing and shooting parties went away, but we were too early in the season. The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon, so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese, curlew, pigeon, and widgeon were brought on board in small quantities; two or three shots had been fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been seen; in fact, a guide who had conducted a party to the ground most frequented by wild duck had killed three bears the day before our arrival.

Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in the winter, during which time their hair is long and their skins handsome. There were in the camp bear and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the market value being about a tael or three shillings.

[Sidenote: Novogorod, June.]

One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies, Conolly, Garnier, Risk, and self rode to the camp, about nine miles distant by land, although two miles by water. From the _Rodney_ you might land within half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had excellent mouths. At the camp, which was situated on a healthy-looking elevated plain on the bank of a small river, we found the same sombre-looking mechanical soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke and drink apparently their only object, no games or amusement of any sort going on.

The country appeared to be well supplied with cattle, fat and in good condition, but nowhere did we see sheep. During our ride we had to cross and re-cross a river by ferry.

The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking fellows. I saw them one day after returning from working at the coal-mines locked up in a wretched hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on the ground, which the last two men picked up, probably their only meal. The Major told Conolly that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a band of rebels that had long infested the north of China. He described the men that attacked the Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni as being well organized and drilled, and he believed they had Europeans amongst them. Two of the prisoners had been liberated to treat for a ransom. Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether to shoot the prisoners; probably when too weak to work any longer at the coal-mine he will do so. There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all the way from Cronstadt.

The soil appears in every way adapted for either cultivation or pasture, but beyond the herds of bullocks no attempt was made to cause it to support the human beings located. The few women there were at the settlement and in the camp were of a low sort--convicts. Every encouragement was given to any soldier who would take one to wife and settle in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended not to send our clothes on shore to be washed, as they would probably be stolen.

The Major was married, his wife being the only person worthy the appellation of lady; an agreeable person, with good eyes and teeth; she came on board to breakfast and enjoyed our band.

[Sidenote: June 26.]

At 9.45 P.M. steamer’s lights were observed outside, and shortly afterwards our Staff-Commander piloted the _Salamis_ in, bringing our mail from Shanghai.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company with _Salamis_. She having some defect in her machinery, was directed to Vladivostock, which Captain Courtenay in his excellent report describes as somewhat more cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although _Salamis’s_ defects were nothing but what she could put to rights with her own engineers, she was to rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well, clear of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal enough to keep us in distilled water. Stood to the eastward, and when well off shore, shaped a course up the Gulf of Tartary.

[Sidenote: Saghalien. Usu Bay. July 4.]

Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien. At 7, came to in 7 fathoms in Usu Bay. Here we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen. A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of which their nets were arranged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth open on the land side. The outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the two sides extending the whole length, close to the outside net. But on the inside they had another net which appeared to lie on the bottom; this they drew up every now and then, generally bringing up from thirty to fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of silver would buy as many as we liked to take.

We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi, bringing salt and rice in exchange for dried fish and seaweed. The Russians appeared to assume authority over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt drove lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with the green grass, had, from the ship, an inviting appearance which was dispelled on attempting to walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of mosquitoes. The Ainos themselves were as dirty as need be. In a cage was the usual bear, petted and fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get drunk who can. They had a few skins for sale, and among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance of Adams, succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables.

A little to the northward of where we anchored there was a larger river, apparently full of salmon; although they would not take the flies offered them, no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a quarter of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could be applied. After I had returned on board in the afternoon, I observed from the stern walk an unusual commotion among the native fishing-boats that had spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one of our boats on its way to the ship with the wardroom officers, coming off to dinner, had been attracted to the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired. One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside. Calling the Commodore, we jumped into her, followed by Garnier, who took the precaution to bring a couple of rifle carbines--always ready with ammunition in the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting scene. A whale had got entangled in the fishermen’s net and was floundering about in its endeavours to escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed three sides of a square just outside the edge of the net, that side next the shore it being unnecessary to guard. Every minute or so the monster raised his huge head to blow--I expect as much to look about him--and then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion he was assailed by shots, spears, and lances. Although I had seen thousands of whales, I never before had been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a rifle bullet into it.

While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted blood and water; twice he tried to hoist the cutter, but with the crew we were too heavy for him, as he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength exhausted, when the infuriated animal, probably pierced deeper by one of the lances, made a final effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net, lifted one of the lighter native boats, out of which the crew had previously escaped, into the air, and made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood.

It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose net he destroyed will be rewarded in a day or two by finding his body. I was struck by the number of dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good condition. They were sledge dogs, and in the morning two teams of them were scampering along the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore to guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the fun.

[Sidenote: July 6.]

Weighed at 10.30 A.M. under plain sail. Observing on the chart there were two lagoons near the coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On standing in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast in the chains was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out stream and heave off; water smooth, weather fine, but bottom foul. It was 8 P.M. before we took up our berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the shore.

[Sidenote: July 7.]

The spot we selected for our picnic was on a bank about half cable wide that separated the northern lagoon from the sea. There was the usual bar; the sea being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the residence of fishermen during the last season. By the number of heads hung up to dry (as winter food for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large and plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks were bagged by the parties “gunning.” The lagoons appeared to be bordered by long grass and sedges and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these woods were difficult to get through, not so much from underwood as from the enormous quantity of decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on. Beyond the hut mentioned, I can imagine no ground better adapted for the breeding of wild-fowl. None of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed a covey of birds, quite young, about a dozen of them; we shot one, a pheasant.

[Sidenote: Najassi, July 8.]

9.15 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Our next place was to be Najassi, some fourteen miles farther to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a small settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district; We came to in the afternoon off his house, determined to coal during continuance of fine weather. We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a small stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting of one Russian and a boy; they appeared happy and contented, netting as much salmon as they required for use, drying and salting others for winter food. They were occasionally visited by bears. Although provided with a double-barrelled rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking an attack.

[Sidenote: Najassi.]

However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming to close quarters, a formidable-looking spear, which was kept inside the house. There had been some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred the society of Nicholai.

Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected at two or three hundred yards by ravines and rivulets, while patches of coal were seen cropping out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and tops, every convenient height for mining. The great and only drawback to this valuable property was the want of a harbour or shelter for coal-lighters. About four miles to the southward of where Mr. Esche had built his hut is a small river, inside which there is a good boat harbour; but, like all the other streams, there is a bar on which the surf must always break, except in the finest weather.

[Sidenote: July 10.]

Coaling was performed by our own people filling bags and then loading alternately our pinnace and a boat belonging to the settlement, which was towed backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by these means we managed to get about forty tons per day. While the coaling was going on, our usual sporting parties were formed. There was but little for the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming up both the streams and river to the southward. Although small salmon and trout of about six inches long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait, no salmon of any size would look at a fly, so we were obliged to resort to other means. The stream at the settlement was ascended many miles into the interior between the mountains, the water tumbling into deep pools at ten or twelve feet distances--these were black at the bottom with large fish. To get at them a net was placed across the stream below; we, with spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated across a fallen tree, had great excitement and fun, as the salmon, started from the pool by means of long poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole.

A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds, were taken this way in one day; but none, except those that had been wounded, could be driven into the net. Another party remained at a pool, some two miles up the stream, all night, and had great sport in spearing salmon by torchlight.

[Sidenote: Najassi, July 11.]

The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious; the banks, from wood and vegetation, except for a yard or two here and there, were impassable, independently of the most formidable mosquitoes, while the stream was rapid and the large water-washed stones smooth and slippery. Nevertheless, substantial meals and everything requisite to support the inward man were conveyed up. The larger river to the southward was where there were most fish: these likewise took no notice of the fly, but the roe from the female salmon was immediately taken by a large fish, who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of the hook, and then making a bolt down stream, round a boulder, disappeared with some fathoms of line.

On a flat piece of ground between the sea and the left bank of the river (here deep and some sixty yards wide), there is an Aino village of fishermen, the chief more respectable-looking than the generality of his countrymen, but with the left side of his face bandaged up, having suffered from the claw of a bear. Three or four of them would go in a rickety boat, and with a small net draw one of the many pools, bringing out at each draught some forty or fifty fine salmon; these fellows were at first liberal enough with their fish, allowing you to take what you wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum, but afterwards, when they had got all they wanted, had the impudence to demand a dollar for one fish, so that it became high time that we should help ourselves.

The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the mouth of the river, when, in a few hauls, some five hundred salmon were taken--more than enough for the ship’s company and some to salt besides.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called Pilyawo.

[Sidenote: July 19.]

Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the exception of sending a boat to communicate with a German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to Castries Bay.

[Sidenote: July 20.]

Joined by _Rattler_, and the following day we sailed in company.

[Sidenote: July 22.]

Came to in Tonquiera Bay, _Rattler_ going to Duè to fill up coal.

[Sidenote: July 24.]

Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay, where we came to in the evening, finding _Salamis_. Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki of poor George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite unexpected, almost every one but his charming wife felt he could not recover. On our departure for the Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill to look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed of the elder brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived at Sierra Leone in February 1861, Arthur Fitzroy, in command of the _Falcon_, died of fever. As children at the Cape we had all four played together.

_Rattler_ rejoining in the night, shifted flag to _Salamis_. It was a gratification to see young Harry Stephenson in all the pride of a “first command.” On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept on board the _Salamis_, preparatory to a start for Nicholai, pilots having been most willingly provided by the officials.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 27.]

Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and intricate, with the distant shore of Saghalien scarcely visible to the eastward. There were buoys at some of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward, to place which the pine-trees had been cleared away. Our leadsmen frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but we never stopped.

Snow-white fish, not porpoises--they said, were tumbling about: round snouts, blow-hole on back of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food. As we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages were seen, with no end of salmon drying, dogs and dirt to any amount.

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