CHAPTER LXXX

SHORE TIME

[Sidenote: 1861. Oct.]

Although surrounded by friends, England to me was no longer the same happy place. I felt aggrieved and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook to share my troubles.

[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]

The marriage ceremony was performed by her brother Richard, assisted by the Rev. Hon. Robert Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.

[Sidenote: Nov.]

We went abroad, travelled through France and Italy: remained some time in Florence, met many kind friends, visited the churches and shops without the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions my good wife invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to display my French, usually answered, “Toujours près.”

[Sidenote: Paris, Dec. 14.]

The good Prince Consort departed this life. Her poor Majesty! Universal grief!

[Sidenote: 1862. Jan. 10.]

Returned to England. We retook possession of our cottage at Bishopstoke, although I had a kind and good tenant in Sir John Bayley, owner of the _Nymph_, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; he kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements were being made, we took lodgings in Sloane Street, my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

Son Colin was born, an event which took off the rough edge of discontent. The gallant Clyde stood godfather. Am not going to bore my readers with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I still had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; also, being a light weight, had frequent mounts with hounds.

[Sidenote: 1863. Jan. 1.]

Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, Isle of Wight. Her phaeton was overturned, but H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon. Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.

[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]

The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first time in the House of Lords. Navy much exercised about the building of ironclads.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over a thousand presentations, besides seventeen hundred who attended. Amongst other old shipmates, met Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.

[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]

This was indeed a happy and exciting day for London. The arrival and procession through the city and streets by the most lovely Princess that ever visited this country. The excitement and fatigue must have been great, but Her Royal Highness allowed no one to see it.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor.

* * * * *

As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as was my brother-in-law, Sir Joseph Hawley; he had engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused myself at Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down at the cottage, Bishopstoke.

[Sidenote: April 20.]

My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had been for some time in delicate health. In 1856 I took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was buried at Quidenham.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes valued at £7200.

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”

[Sidenote: June 4.]

Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First appearance of Prince and Princess of Wales. Cup won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”

[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]

My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged seventy-one.... Attended his funeral on 21st.

[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]

The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess of Wales, arrived in England.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: Dec.]

The River Itchen running between my kitchen and flower-garden, was full of trout, and there was a small summer-house through which I could conduct a running stream from the river. I wrote to Mr. Buckland to help me in breeding trout. In the upper part of the summer-house I had a tank, which could be renovated and a small stream of water introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,--these overflowed into each other. It was great fun watching the tiny things come to life and gradually increase in size, until it was time to put them into the river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose property the Itchen ran, took a great interest in the experiment. From my little preserve on the Itchen, Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with trout, which has proved very successful.

[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]

Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. He had, some years before, proposed me as a member of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant gathering of Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in Watt’s Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up to the end of its days my name was up on the walls of the Club as “absent on special business.”...

[Sidenote: 1864. Jan. 8.]

Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war with Prussia; offered my services. But the rank of Vice-Admiral interfered.

[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]

Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended by General Knollys and Colonel Keppel.

[Sidenote: Apr. 3.]

Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his full uniform: red shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron pigs notoriety over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three weeks’ visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht _Undine_ for Caprera.

[Sidenote: June 20.]

Capture of _Alabama_ by Federal cruiser _Kearsage_.

* * * * *

Three millions afterwards paid by England! So much for arbitration!

[Sidenote: July 6.]

Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good deal on board Tom Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) yacht the _Arrow_, R.Y.S.; at that period had not been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, the _Freak_, but nothing could pass _Arrow_. Being an honorary member of the Royal Yacht Squadron, consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing how sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle was our host’s favourite anchorage.

[Sidenote: Guernsey, July 7.]

Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a favourite anchorage. Market well supplied with fruit and vegetables, but you should not spoil your appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.

[Sidenote: July 8.]

Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After breakfast joined by Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. We started in hopes of engaging one Lanourie, a celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was already engaged by Mr. Petre of the _Osprey_. Arrived _Eugenie_, R.Y.S.; joined by Fred Delmé Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and Colonel Denny.

[Sidenote: _Arrow_ yacht, July 9.]

On the highest part in the centre of the town is a granite tower erected in memory of Her Majesty’s visit. After a climb up a spiral staircase, we obtained a view of the island. The tide being out, the numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like pinnacles from the deep; makes one feel thankful one is not the owner of a yacht. During the night we were joined by the _Firefly_, Sir H. Oglander. A strong north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne has a party at Cranberry, and I am due at home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on vote of censure. The position of Federal troops in Virginia critical.

[Sidenote: July 10.]

By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas Whichcote on board his _Enchantress_.

[Sidenote: July 11.]

Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, saw wife and kid (Colin), returned to _Enchantress_, and off with first of south-wester to the eastward. Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in _Eugenie_ had got start, but we caught her up this side of Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month of my journal and left me neither on shore nor afloat.

[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]

Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. Detained a couple of hours for want of water. Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel shortly after midnight.

[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]

_Eugenie_ brought up outside the bar. Having worked up to Helvets Maas, changed pilot and hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had to wait our turn. _Eugenie_ rejoined; got through first tack. Taken in tow by horses, to me a novel mode of travelling. Canal about six miles in length. Secured inside the lock.

On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, wild duck, and plover; cattle, carts and carriages, latter primitive in appearance. At noon anchored off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the Church Tower, magnificent and extensive view. Inside the church are two good sculptures of Admirals de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and Conellan dined with us.

[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]

[Sidenote: The Hague.]

Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum and Picture Gallery. Lunched at a Café by the way, particularly clean. We then drove to the King’s Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by some of the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At the Palace we were civilly received by the servants. Although the Queen was residing in it, we were shown over the charming country residence. On our preparing to leave, a footman suggested writing our names in a book lying open on a side-table. I had no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.

We had just turned into the road from the outer gate, when a messenger came running with Her Majesty’s commands for my return, when I was sent for, and received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique Mathilde at the door of the ante-room, and desired to follow her into a charming boudoir. After a few kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her Majesty hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, and other kind expressions. I mentioned that I had had the honour of being a Groom-in-Waiting to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss the royal hand on departing: my friends having kindly waited in the carriage, enjoying the fragrant weed.

On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more curious collection of pretty things I had never seen. Returned by train, and so on board the pretty and beautifully clean _Enchantress_, having seen a good deal, and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception I had received. The _Eugenies_ came to dine.

[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]

In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came on board and agreed to accompany us to Amsterdam.

[Sidenote: Amsterdam, Aug. 17.]

By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station at Amsterdam to the Palace. We first mounted the belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee and surrounding country. We came in for a tune on the bells, as well as the striking the hour of noon on the more ponderous one. The Palace is as dismal and as uninteresting a building as one could well go through. Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken from their greatest enemy are suspended in the Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his ship up, with himself and crew, after getting on shore, when boarded by the Belgians in 1831.

We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged building, but containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, with its trade and canal streets, is very like Rotterdam. At 5 P.M. we returned by a train _viâ_ Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this great grazing, cattle-supporting country, that unless I had been told I should have thought we were returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, although things were clean. Got on board _Enchantress_ a little after seven.

[Sidenote: Rotterdam, Aug. 18.]

After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and examined a small galliot pleasure-boat, of about eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to which I had taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a vessel could be, the middle part decked over. Mast and sails fitted, and for stability as safe as a church. Should like to have her in the Itchen, off Bishopstoke. Weather bad.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

Weighed at 11 A.M. Wind just sufficient to allow us, with ebb tide, to fetch down, which we did cleverly in one hour. Same distance when going up taking us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at Nieuwe Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. Process of getting through the lock gates slow. We heard of a large ship coming through yesterday, requiring forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 P.M. we were through the gates, and, with the assistance of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the three horses at the tow rope in a jog-trot. _Eugenie_ having had half an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without the encumbrance of horses, and was, partly owing to the haze, out of sight ahead. The canal is crossed by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In meeting vessels it is customary, or rather it is the printed law, to keep to the right or starboard side. At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, as if she did not intend to give way an inch to, what she most likely considered us, the weaker vessel; in vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one might have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, we had all but squeezed through, when the _Leveret_, of Whitby, at last, and when too late, put her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very rudely against _Enchantress’s_ bow, by which she lost a whisker and had her cathead and upper works considerably damaged; to say nothing of the foresail, which was rent in twain.

The nimble _Leveret_ did not escape without a scratch, inasmuch as _Enchantress’s_ anchor having hooked the _Leveret’s_ main rigging, tore away three of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works fore and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold on by, tumbled into the water and was soon weighed, catted, and fished. While we proceeded on our way, the collier was observed to rush frantically into the rushes on the wrong bank of the river.

At 4 P.M. we brought up at Helviotsluys end of the canal. All appearances of a gale of wind, although in the right direction, we are better inside the canal.

[Sidenote: Helviotsluys, Aug. 21.]

Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers to eastward the sea must go down a bit. Visit from the _Eugenies_ or Irish Brigade, who likewise had been in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not intending the lubberly _Leveret_ to escape the punishment due, sent Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam by steamer to lay the case before Her Majesty’s Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may detain us another day, as the master cannot be back before to-morrow. Landed and visited the town, which is entered by a drawbridge, and surrounded by a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one of the bastions. In the centre of the town was an old 50-gun frigate, for the training of youths for their navy. In the evening the _Eugenies_ came on board and we had a rubber.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

_Eugenie_ got through the gates at an early hour, but brought up outside. Gale over, glass rising, but no easterly wind. A young Dutchman, probably an attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of a letter from the master of the _Leveret_, the purport of which was that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages as soon as his defects were made good. Tom Whichcote, having read the document, tore it up and threw it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell Mr. Clark (the master of the _Leveret_) to go to a hot place. The scribe having remarked that Sir Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business, retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on board and conducted us through the gates--an operation we could have done as well. Came to outside preparatory to a start in the morning.

[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]

Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind hanging to W.S.W. Message from the Irish Brigade proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. Landed sea pilot and tried for a river one; only one in store, so settled to wait. At 9 A.M. observed _Eugenie_ working down for the sea. However, Tom Whichcote was not to be influenced into again changing his mind; having got on board a river pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between certain black and white buoys.

After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, the tide having fallen, and the channel narrow and wind in our faces, we came to. Observed sundry seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying sand left by the falling tide. _Eugenie_ and ourselves no longer in company, and as their manœuvring scented somewhat of the humbug it was not to be regretted. Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.--wonder whether I shall ever be so far _East_ again.

These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted with shoals and dangers, do not understand the handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner. They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of the length of time they hold their way; consequently, instead of merely pointing out to the captain of the vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid, took to working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud bank. The second time she was only got off by a rising tide. Much time was lost, and we brought up for the night earlier than we otherwise should.

[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]

Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. Haywood, the master, appeared to have had enough of narrow channels and mud banks, so took the Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and we stood on to Brouwershaven, where we came to at 9 A.M. to wait tide, change pilot for a deep-sea one, and obtain provisions. This being the main channel for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we found several French, American, and Dutch.

Water being low as we came down, the banks were covered with various birds. Two of the crew landed in the night and had got within twenty yards of a flock of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to go off, so the ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned with a regular old salt as sea pilot; not much to be done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, dated Friday last, was in the possession of one of the American skippers, with most likely news from the States.

Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked out cleverly; twelve miles before we were clear of the outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our departure from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A refreshing breeze, but rising sea. Name it not, but at four, dinner-time, my old inside revolted. I felt so sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing dinner. Made a second attempt at supper-time with same result. By 11.30 made Lowestoft Light.

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

At noon we were off the North Foreland. Dirty weather; we wisely came to in Margate Roads. Glass falling; westerly gale.

[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]

Gale continuing. Got _Daily Telegraph_ from a stranger, but neither he nor three others could tell what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last week at York!

[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]

Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot getting over a stone wall near Box, Bath.

[Sidenote: Oct.]

It was about this time that my kind friends at Singapore realised the position in which I was placed. Now that the subject of the transfer of the Straits Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was under the consideration of the Government, I think my friends were almost unanimous in wishing that I should be appointed Governor of the Straits Settlements.

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