CHAPTER LXXXVII

NORTH CHINA PORTS

[Sidenote: 1867. Amoy, May 31.]

At Amoy we found the _Cormorant_, a pretty fast despatch gunboat, Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are many others, but none to be compared to it.

The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the shape of a really _active_ Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail. A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the _Cormorant_ will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau, commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or twelve-ton boats.

[Sidenote: June 1.]

French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all Princesses.

Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no proof of aggression.

[Sidenote: June 3.]

Inspected _Cormorant_ at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns loaded within three minutes. Noon.--Weighed in _Pearl_ and steamed out, two boilers. An old _St. Jean d’Acre_, Shearman, chief engineer.

[Sidenote: June 4.]

In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of seaweed, even after handling.

The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a basin of water it was almost inanimate.

[Sidenote: June 5.]

Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the scenery on the Rhine.

Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several are now loading and two or three are already off--beautiful ships, reminding one of fine old sailing days of _Dido_, which class of ship they greatly resemble.

[Sidenote: June 7.]

On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the Yang-tse-Kiang.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we could proceed over the bar.

[Sidenote: June 10.]

Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and steamed up to Shanghai.

[Sidenote: Shanghai.]

Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads, carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are here. No saluting on account of close quarters.

Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife, having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock, who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial, or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most efficient scholar and interpreter in China.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Rattler_, June 11.]

A court-martial detained the _Pearl_ and _Rattler_ (in charge of station). _Argus_ also here, attending on the Minister, with a new commander just appointed in Hallowes.

_Algerine_, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also _Acorn_, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.

[Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago]

[Sidenote: June 13.]

Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit to Peking.

We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site, might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary power.

The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting, three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September. Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal sympathy and regret.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Manila_, June 15.]

Shifted flag from _Rattler_ on board _Manila_. At noon sailed, having written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the _attaché_, Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup.

[Illustration: _Sir Rutherford Alcock._]

Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters should be found for our cruisers.

After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them, intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance--the haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.

To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so coveted by Lord de Grey.

[Sidenote: Nagasaki, June 18.]

Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki. Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was shifted to _Pelorus_.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Pelorus_, June 30.]

On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of six--Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self--and landed where the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks, were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of Omera’s territory.

Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and down a steep flight of stone steps.

Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent specimen of the teredo or borer--the largest I have seen.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, June 26.]

On the 26th _Salamis_ arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave. Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon, returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with his life.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_. Inland Sea.]

4 A.M.--Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country, with--apparently--everything within itself, while the wants of the natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will speedily put an end.

Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look strong and healthy, but eat no meat.

On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off, and the sea without a ripple, the _Salamis_ made light work. As we entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the scent of flowers was wafted off.

[Sidenote: July 1.]

Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving, departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a large fishing village.

[Sidenote: Inland Sea, July 2.]

Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much coquetting,--simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with more time some fine shells might be collected.

[Sidenote: July 3.]

4.30.--Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama--water perfectly smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were under their grotesque but picturesque sails.

[Sidenote: July 4.]

4.30 A.M.--Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E. Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the morning we had again run into fine weather.

[Sidenote: Yokohama to Yedo, July 5.]

At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes. The French admiral, Rose, in the _Guerinere_, had saluted my flag as soon as they could well make it out. _Perseus_ returned, _Basilisk_ and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin.

[Illustration: _Harry Parkes._]

[Sidenote: Yedo, July 10.]

Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We formed a respectable _cortège_. The Minister with his staff of three, Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders--cocked hats and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited. Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco, saki, pipes and sweetmeats.

Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather; then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.

Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected with the Naval Department.

[Sidenote: Yedo, July 11.]

We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole, through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day the following little event unfortunately occurred:--

The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted spies--now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off, a ridiculous and ignominious retreat.

However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they would have liked the fun.

[Sidenote: Yokohama, July 22.]

At sea in the _Salamis_, _Serpent_, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock, in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in _Basilisk_. Our object to meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make, visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the _Salamis_ arrived and took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp.

I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,” a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W. Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me.

[Sidenote: July 24.]

We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant variety I never saw equalled.

About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment, Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda.

The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp; one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind.

## CHAPTER LXXXVIII

DAIBOOTZ

[Sidenote: 1867. July 24.]

We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving our ponies, entered a shrubbery by a path which, taking a turn to the left, brought us suddenly, at the distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, not cast, of sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully put together that joints are imperceptible at first from the outside. It is only on going inside that you see how it was riveted, in much the same way as we should (forgive the comparison) a huge boiler. The inside, too, has been desecrated by the usual number of Saxon names.

Several of our military friends, who had previously seen this gigantic statue, advised our not taking our eyes from the ground until close up to it, but that is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it is only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of the whole figure. The rising ground and green foliage at the back add much to the effect, and the best view is that which the people who erected it intended you should have, by the turn given to the path when it first appears in view.

On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, the largest of the hundred in the neighbourhood. It is curious and handsome. The site, too, as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well chosen for its picturesque situation, as well as for the view to be obtained from it. But these temples are the work of men’s hands, and not to be compared with the beautiful scenery through which we afterwards passed on our return home, by another route.

About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, situated on the edge of a circular and nearly land-locked bay of the same name. At one of the clean and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most excellent luncheon, sent early and provided by the messman of the 9th, to which ample justice was done by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a ride home in the cool of the evening.

A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution in the political state of the Japanese and their feelings towards foreigners. We appear to be welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, especially by the lower orders.

The Daimios, who would a few years ago have put their Shogoon to death for entertaining the idea of permitting foreigners to trade, are now quarrelling among themselves as to whose port shall be the first opened to trade. These feudal chiefs are tenacious of their independence, and no longer live with a portion of their family within the precincts of the castle and moat at Yedo, but excuse themselves by stating that troublous times oblige them to keep their retainers with them and ready.

They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing will tend more to sap and explode the whole feudal system than the introduction of the foreigner with our free notions, although differing materially from one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending to undermine a system similar to our ancient feudalism.

The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions on commerce and despotic governments, are the loudest in their call for Free Trade, and were the first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to the foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed by force of arms, will allow herself to be second to none in free intercourse with the Japanese. Holland no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the whole trade; and, unable to compete with other nations in free notions of commerce, is fast retiring from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia seems afraid of contamination with any traders. England, I believe, while she feels the hardship of enforcing our trade on these primitive and would-be exclusive people, is obliged to go with the stream, and as yet enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain ports are open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and others are to be opened in January 1868.

The apple of discord has been thrown among these warlike Daimios, who, finding that their whole strength united can no longer keep out the foreigner, are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. Several of these princes are far more powerful than the Tycoon himself, but the Tycoon is nominally the head of the Government, and each quarrel among the Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at Osaka, ready to put down any single-handed Daimio, some of whom have threatened hostilities, fancying themselves aggrieved in not having been sufficiently consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.

As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, I have seen none of their great men. The French, who, through their Minister, it is said, have got contracts for building docks and clothing the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of money in the country, so much so, that in case of civil war their interest will be to support the Tycoon, and they would persuade him that by a powerful army alone can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent chiefs. _Our_ advice is to get up a respectable navy and make timely concessions. With their splendid harbours, mineral wealth, and vast resources, the Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; while, beyond working artillery for their batteries, their soldiers will only weaken their resources and cut one another’s throats. What different views different people take!

But to return to where the journal places us at sea after leaving Yokohama.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 22.]

_Serpent_ led the way into Sendai Bay; she having communicated with some native fishermen found no safe entrance into the inner bay of Matsu Sima; so, to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood out again and found our way to the northward of an island, for which, as yet, we have no name, and stood on until we gradually shoaled our water to four fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came to for the night, perfectly secure against any wind.

[Sidenote: July 23.]

Weighed at 8.30 and followed the _Serpent_ round Sendai Bay, when I signalled her to pass through an inviting-looking passage formed by the mainland and Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with the beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent civilisation, that we determined on landing, and came to for the night. On the left the hills had been cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, were seen in different directions. On the right was a beautifully wooded island, with herds of deer feeding in the cleared spaces. Guns were immediately got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to get permission from certain houses we saw peeping through the trees.

Our messenger was forestalled by the going on board the _Serpent_ of a priest who informed them that the island was sacred and dedicated to the Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and never killed, and that not so much as a stone was ever permitted to be removed; in fact, that any one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would surely die. He said there was gold among the sand on the east side, but that was guarded by a great serpent. A party went on shore at the invitation of the priests, and while they were inspecting the interior of the temple a fine stag walked in and ate several sheets of white paper from the hands of the strangers. None of the deer are ever killed, nor is one allowed to pick up the antlers they shed, which were seen lying about.

The Commodore and self landed on the opposite shore to inspect the more wild-looking horses. These we found as tame as the deer. They were but ponies, but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing the hills I put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay there were others. The covert was good, but we had neither guns nor dogs.

On returning on board I found the priests, who had ascertained who I was, waiting to receive me. They appeared poor, civil and good-tempered, bringing an offering of small fans, descriptions on paper of their temple and island, also some nasty drink called saki. They seemed to enjoy some champagne! Should there ever be hostilities between us I shall know where to find some good fat venison. We weighed again before midnight and followed the _Serpent_ to the northward.

[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, July 24.]

10.30.--Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, when _Serpent_ led us into as beautiful a haven as can well be imagined. Land high, bold, and wooded on both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, as signalled from _Serpent_, gradually decreasing from 50 fathoms, but too deep for anchoring for full 3 miles, and it was not until we had made a turn to the westward, and were completely land-locked that we got any soundings with the hand leads. Scenery such as Rio Harbour would be if the blue mountains were brought closer.

We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, close off a considerable fishing village called Yamaba. Natives appeared nervous and cautious at first, but gained confidence when they found the Japanese officers on board the _Serpent_. A seining party landed on a low sandy island and caught some small but sweet fish; some of them had the peculiarity of not spawning like most fish, but of producing a number of little plump fish like themselves, about 2 inches long, that swam and cut about as if they had never been confined!

On returning on board I found that the head of the village had sent his small present on board of stinking salt fish. The gunning party had shot ducks and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: the natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the game between the months of March and September. Had we given permission, our decks would have been crowded with the villagers from morning till night, but we allowed them on board only occasionally for an hour.

[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, Japan, July 25.]

Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly japanned little tub, two parcels of the dried sea-slug or _bêche de mer_, done up in paper bags on a japanned tray, were brought off by the principal traders of the place. Mr. Aston came from the _Serpent_ to interpret; they smoked their pipes. I gave them a couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne, and wrote my name on their fans; they went away delighted.

Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine swan, and Pusey had killed an animal the doctor pronounced to be a fennec; it was very savage, and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after having been badly wounded; it had a small foxy head, a short brush, and hair long, like some Scotch terriers. He was not sweet!

Leaving the _Serpent_ to sound round this splendid harbour,

## particularly one of refuge should a vessel be caught in those gales so

prevalent on this coast in winter months, at 10 A.M. we cleared from the numerous native boats and steamed out of the harbour. Weather and climate much the same as in our own dear isle at this time of year.

[Sidenote: Hakodadi, July 26.]

In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly breeze, and that, with a lee set, obliged us to get steam up in the other two boilers. We came to in Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese junks with but few European vessels. There is not much to attract in the town, shops containing nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was immediately formed to start on the morrow for the Lake Cuoma, situated beyond the hills that rise from the plain. On the north side of the harbour, at a distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the sea on the east side was said to be full of salmon and trout.

The European residents were particularly kind in providing us with ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly offered to accompany us. Half a dozen pack ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and a change of clothes; these were to have started some hours in advance, but the usual mistakes were made of not equally dividing the packages, and after landing, beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.

It was a little after noon that our party of seven, in addition to servants, got fairly under weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores of the harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly begins to rise towards the mountains, over which our route lay.

The Commodore and self were properly mounted on the steadiest of the ponies, although mine, “Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk, with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, who had but once before been in a saddle, was on an amorous pony that endeavoured to get at every herd of brood mares, of which there were many feeding on the plain, and at last got into difficulties by meeting two mares and a foal just as they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. A scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean over, while the other two pawed and bit each other savagely.

The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then there was a chevy over the plain to separate the combatants and catch the runaway! As we approached the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and were obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was going to take us and return to the beaten track. The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary ponies scampered along considerably faster than I liked or could help, without a fall, although with frequent slips of a yard or two.

[Illustration:

_From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867._

_Crossing a River in Japan._]

On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which showed like a gap in the mountain, the mist held up and gave us a view of the plain we had traversed, with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, which has not been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, as seen from Spain. On the other side we have a view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the distance smoking.

We had started too late to reach the fishing stream, so pushed on to a tea-house on the north side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here we did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed ourselves, as I fancy only sailors can; at least we do not get enough of this sort of life to make us indifferent to its (to me) many charms!

[Sidenote: July 27.]

The next morning we started for another of these comfortable and convenient tea-houses, situated on the shore of Volcano Bay, near the mouth of the Salmon River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some 4 miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, the party who led did not know the intended spot, and continued on until they reached the house at which we intended to rest. This brought the whole party on, when it was ascertained that we were two months too early for salmon, and there was not a trout left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the _Serpent_.

The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our enjoyment. We were all early in the saddle. Started on our return by 9 A.M., a lovely and refreshing morning with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to the plain on the other side the wind got up and the rain came down as it can in this country. But the comforts of home on board with a warm bath made the rain only another variety in our fun.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

We found a French man-of-war, _La Place_, from Yokohama, probably sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat _Garnastai_, commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor--two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows.

Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small ivories. A small collection of shells!

[Sidenote: July 30.]

After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising fuel not permitting _Serpent_ and _Basilisk_ accompanying us.

[Sidenote: Twanai, July 31.]

As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many years. We found no shelter near the village.

[Sidenote: Yesso Island.]

Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven fathoms inside.

##