CHAPTER XCIX

CHEFOO TO JAPAN

[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Salamis_, May 27.]

Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at Tientsin of my intention to pay, on my return, my respects to Tchung-How, the same Governor that was here when I was in the _Dido_, and, with the exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished Chinese gentleman I had met. In reply to the Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would not be late as he had to pray for rain.

Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who lived two miles away on the opposite side of the river. Tchung-How, in addition to being Governor, is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of the heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter. We were received with the usual courtesy, the Viceroy holding his hands before him and bending forward at each door. In the inner room we had tea, and then, in the second, champagne and fruit. Made the visit short, and was glad to get away; having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in furs and skins charged double what they did in Peking.

Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul C. Skottschkoff. He has a Cossack look about him; his wife, not being got up to receive visitors, disappeared by an opposite door, but I believe she is pretty and speaks English. Our Consul and his wife joined us at dinner; she made herself very agreeable.

[Sidenote: May 28.]

Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the bar in the afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the want of his accustomed cocktail, failed in nerve and muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a little more than halfway down the Peiho.

[Sidenote: Peiho-Taku Forts, May 29.]

Started early, but not in time to save the tide over the bar; a bore, am anxious to get north. We brought up close to the celebrated Taku Forts, that the squadron under Sir James Hope had such good reason to remember. Some of our officers landed, and no objection was made to their inspecting forts. They report them as in good repair, guns mounted and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than 32-pounders, evidently taken from our gunboats, having the “V.R.” on them; but these will be retaken before long!

The European in charge of signal station stated that the garrisons, formerly thirty or forty in each fort, had within the last month been increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the other. The coolies state that all foreigners are shortly to be driven out of China. I believe they are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies of some of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had reached our Embassy at Peking. If anything is to take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am confident that a war would eventually benefit both sides.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 P.M. came to at Chefoo. The mail had arrived from England. Discussions had taken place in Parliament in which the Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how mistaken they were regarding the state of China. An _apology_ was to be sent to the Chinese Government for our “mistake” in Formosa!

[Sidenote: Chefoo, May 31.]

Inspected Charles Scott’s _Icarus_; as I expected, found her in perfect order.

The coaling of the _Salamis_ painfully slow; lazy coolies passing the coal on board in small baskets holding less than a shovelful each. Operation completed by 3 P.M. Having laid in a stock of sheep and poultry, started for Japan.

Markham informed me that a Russian corvette had been at Chefoo with a live bear and a lion’s skin for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock. They went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put into the _Juno_.

[Sidenote: June 4.]

Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark. Once more the inland sea; at no time of the year can it look more beautiful; crops ripening and the green grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30 entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was time of neap tides and the flood was within an hour of its making, which it does two hours after high water. It required close watching and quick helm to prevent being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow” water. It is safest to pass through with the current.

[Sidenote: Yokohama, June 6.]

By daylight we were standing into the Bay of Yedo; _Rodney_, _Ocean_, _Adventure_, and _Cormorant_ made their numbers. We passed under the stern of the old _Rodney_, where the band and officers were on the poop to welcome the old Chief. Steamed ahead of the stately _Ocean_ and came to before 8 A.M. Found the wife and children well and happy at the Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo, but everything done to make us feel at home. Denison had come out by mail, at his own expense, to take command of _Cormorant_, as her paying-off was to be here. Flag hoisted on board _Rodney_.

[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_, June 7.]

The French commodore and captains, as well as Dutch and American senior officers, visited _Rodney_. All the heads of departments had already visited, and been attentive to the wife on her arrival.

[Sidenote: June 8.]

Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the French, American, and Netherlands commanders; the two former giving me a personal salute. The small arms men and marines from _Rodney_ and _Ocean_, 4047 tons, Captain Stanhope, landed and went through their evolutions, to the admiration of Colonel Norman of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The field-pieces were beautifully worked. I was mounted on Sir Harry Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to stand fire. I have had the house built snug and substantial, easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu and Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey given me by Mrs. Fitzroy is dying.

[Sidenote: June 10.]

Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined with the Marshalls, plodding there in chairs, ankle deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt, Adams, Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner, as usual, excellent, wines to match. Drank the health of Georgie West, her birthday.

[Sidenote: June 11.]

Inspected _Ocean_. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner or more perfect man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving me of my flagship! Dined with the Normans in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind hostess to make us enjoy our visit, in which she perfectly succeeded. At the door on way home met a youngster with our mail from England.

[Sidenote: Yokohama.]

In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the severest shock of earthquake that I had experienced. It occurred at 4 P.M. on Monday. I was sitting at the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the lapse of a few seconds went on again, with sounds of cracking and groaning. Keppel Garnier was with May at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house cracked, and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the walls. Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier, May; both rushed out on to the lawn; raining hard. At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and the Japs deserted the house.

The mail did not bring much important news. It was in contemplation at the Admiralty to submit the names of certain Admirals for the distinction of Grand Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday. Friend Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the Commodore not waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent for the attack on the villages at Swatow, my name is not to be sent in!

Inspected _Cormorant_, a fit pendant to the _Ocean_. Poor Brand has earned his promotion, if the order of his ship is any criterion.

[Sidenote: June 14.]

Early telegraph this morning from _Rodney_: “Many happy returns of the day to Commander-in-Chief” from captain and officers. Signalled back “Many and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening, having ridden from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to see my friend so well. Most of the naval officers and other friends called in the course of the day to congratulate me on my natal day.

[Sidenote: June 16.]

Having returned all garrison calls, visited the Foreign Ministers yesterday. The American Minister, a General, had read the name of his successor--the only intimation that he was to be relieved. How pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the only minister who has courage enough to take up his residence among these turbulent people! Yesterday, having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo with him, found a horse and escort waiting for me at Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught up Sir Harry at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the River Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were standing, one having been built last year for the Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo, and afterwards pulled down, so that no one else could take advantage of it.

We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald, interpreter, and young Hodges, studying to become one; and attended by a mounted escort from Yedo, as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and diminutive appearance could make them. The present Legation, although not large, is most pleasantly situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which the flag of _Perfide Albion_ may be seen from every part of Yedo!

[Sidenote: Yedo, June 18.]

We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated on another eminence within a few minutes’ walk, while Adams had taken possession of the snug little house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small cemetery separating the two--most convenient for the joint mess.

Sibbald came in during the evening; he had accompanied the Tycoon’s younger brother in his travels and visited with him most of the Courts of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent and shrewd in his remarks, although he got occasionally bored by over-sightseeing. In answer to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so much of their persons in evening dress, he was told, “Out of compliment to His Highness”; on which he supposed if his Emperor had been there they would have come naked! Nor could he understand high personages dancing: a performance in his country he paid people for doing.

Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than these Jap houses for summer residences. The house at Yokohama, engrossing all the best furniture, the accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort of “roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two carriages, in one of which Parkes drove my wife, went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to be right) at Zôôji, at Shiba, the castle, and other sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had seen before, did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds about the Legation.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

Have some two days’ back journal to write up. In the afternoon news reached us of the loss of the _Haya Maro_, a fine steamer bound to Osaka, which seems to have struck on the same rock as the _Nepaul_ about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to the eastward of the well-known Plymouth rocks. She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her bottom was torn out and she went down head foremost in less than five minutes in 40 fathoms water. The only excuse for cutting the point so close was to shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka in thirty hours. Among the twenty-one lives lost was an old China friend, Margesson, who dined with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service as a merchant for some twenty-eight years, he was on his way home to enjoy the fruits of his labours.

Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly and Willes. Willes had taken service with the Japanese. Although he frequently attended those connected with the Court, he had never been allowed near the Mikado. In fact, even now, if necessary to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of tape is fastened to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole in the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor approaches, beating the mats with his head!

The next day (20th) the launch started, soon after high water, with the same party she had brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet grey Arab charger. Mitford kindly accompanied me part of the way, and cautioned me to be careful of said charger, he having been down once, and getting shaky on his legs. We pulled up by the roadside. There we found a square plot fenced round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended to alight on that place. In another direction a rustic bridge was stopped up, the Imperial foot having passed over it.

[Sidenote: Rokugo, Japan, to Yokohama.]

The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached the ferry at Rokugo just as I got to the other side. The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel river). We both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s caution and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if shot, in the streets of Yokohama, cutting both knees. Those only who have ridden their friends’ favourite horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry, instead of wishing that it had been my neck instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped I had escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a narrow escape: one of the ponies, a bumptious beast, that never neared another animal without apparently wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage that had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on both sides of which there is a drop of some 12 feet into the sea, and that made still more unpleasant by short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped into him smartly by the Minister. The mounted orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife, and the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in time; the adventure did not improve my wife’s nerves. They reached the Legation just before me, having taken a different road.

Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession, and in church we had the service appointed for that event, finishing with “God save the Queen.” Not at all bad for Yokohama.

The _Dupleix_, with our friend Du Petit Thours, went out of harbour as I rode in on Saturday, along the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at not seeing any notice taken of him when the _Dupleix_ passed our ships, she being homeward bound, while their kindness and hospitality to Harry Stephenson and the wrecked crew of the _Rattler_ in September last was fresh in our memories.

I learned afterwards that, having the French prisoners on board who had led on and then deserted the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a wrong construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote to Stanhope, hoping that we should not take any notice of him. We never met so good a Frenchman or a better man.

_Opossum_ returned from expedition up Yang-tse. A placard had been stuck up in I-Chang offering rewards for her capture, as well as others for the heads of the captain or crew!

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