Book III

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Just another example of where readings by various editors are different because of the interpretations of one word. In this case one group reads _libra_ whereas the other reads _herba_.

[147] A DISH OF SARDINES _PATELLA DE APUA_ [1]

SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH [the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_, fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies, sardines, sprats.

In experimenting with this formula we would advise to use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as quickly as possible after the fish has left the water, for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, and similar smoked and processed fish, contain sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an omelette.

[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] Tor. _cum aqua_; List., G.-V. _cum apua_. Perhaps a typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for that purpose.

[4] Tor. _et in calore {oe}nogarum perfundes_; List., G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version because an omelette should have no or very little color from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible) and because hot _{oe}nogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional savour and a finishing touch.

[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON _PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_

THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf's or pig's] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] G.-V. _lagitis_; Tor. _laridis_ and _largitis_; Vat. Ms. _lagatis_; List. _pro lagitis ... legendum Lacertis_. The _lacertus_, according to List., is a much esteemed salt fish; not identified. List. _et al._ seem to be mistaken in their reading of _lacertis_ for _laridis_. This work stands for salt pork, from _laridum_ and _lardum_ (French, _lard_; the English _lard_ is applied to the rendered fat of pork in general). Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 41.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] _oua dura_; Sch. _o. dua_--two eggs.

[4] This formula would be intelligible and even gastronomically correct were it not for this word "fish." However, we cannot accept Lister's reading _lacertis_. We prefer the reading, _laridis_, bacon. The French have another term for this--_petits salés_. Both this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again refers in the above formula, _salsum, coctum in media pones_--put the bacon, when done, in the center (of the dish). Regarding _salsum_ also see note to {Rx} No. 41.

The above dish resembles _ragoût fin en coquille_, a popular Continental dish, although its principal ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains.

[149] BROILED MULLET _PATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS_ [1]

A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET PLACED IN A CLEAN PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a dash of honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] List., G.-V. _mullorum loco salsi_--salt mullet.

[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.

[3] List. _liquamen_--broth, brine, which would be worse than carrying owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the mullet if it be what List. says, _loco salsi_--salted on the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea shore, requires soaking to extract the salt.

[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISH _PATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET_ [1]

ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF CURED [3] FISH, CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or bacon--_petits salés_] OVER THE CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT, ADD A DASH OF HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5].

[1] Ex Tor.; G.-V. _P. piscium loco salsi_.

[2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] Tor. _duratos_--_hard_--no sense here, probably a misprint of the d. List. _curatos_--carefully treated, "cured," processed.

[4] _Salsum coctum_, cf. notes to {Rx} No. 148; Goll., Dann.--sprinkle [the fish] with salt.... Like Lister's error in the preceding formula it would be a great blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated with salt to the utmost. Cf. also note 2 to {Rx} Nos. 41, 148.

[5] Virtually a repetition of {Rx} No. 149, except for the addition of the pork.

[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONS _ALIA PISCIUM PATINA_

ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY KIND OF FISH AND PLACE IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS [shallots] OR WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. ADD STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED BACON IN THE CENTER, GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR, SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND GARNISH WITH [the] ONIONS.

[1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts.

[152] A LUCRETIAN DISH _PATINA LUCRETIANA_ [1]

CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED [with the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions]. WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] A LITTLE VINEGAR AND REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO SALTY, ADD MORE HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5].

[1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuræus, a contemporary of Cicero. List. _ab authore cui in usu fuit sic appellata_.

[2] G.-V. _concides_. Not necessary.

[3] _salsum crudum_--salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured bacon. Dann. raw salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of course! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 41, 147, 149.

[4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own use of sugar to glaze ham or bacon, and of the molasses added to pork (and beans).

[5] G.-V. _coronam bubulam_. In experimenting with this formula omit salt completely. Instead of honey we have also added maple syrup once. To make this a perfect luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore added sliced raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to make it a balanced meal, by way of improving upon Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have, on a different occasion, created another version by added sliced dasheens (_colocasia_, cf. {Rx} Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322). It is surprising that the ancients who used the _colocasium_ extensively did not combine it with the above dish.

[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISH _PATINA DE LACERTIS_ [1]

CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] BREAK AND BEAT EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON THE FIRE, WHEN COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].

[1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V. _P. de lagitis_; cf. note to {Rx} No. 148.

[2] Remembering that List. reads _lagitis_ for _lacertis_, this formula appears to be an antique "Scrambled Eggs and Bacon." Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 42, 148-150.

[3] _Oenogarum_, cf. {Rx} No. 147, the Sardine Omelette.

[4] To cook the eggs as described above would be disastrous. The fish, if such was used, was probably first poached in the broth, wine and oil, and when done, removed from the pan. The _fond_, or remaining juice or gravy, was subsequently tied with the egg yolks, and this sauce was strained over the fish dressed on the service platter, the _{oe}nogarum_ sparingly sprinkled over the finished dish. This would closely resemble our modern _au vin blanc_ fish dishes; the _{oe}nogarum_ taking the place of our meat glacé.

Another interpretation of this vexatious formula is that if fish was used, the cooked fish was incorporated with the raw beaten eggs which were then scrambled in the pan. In that event this formula resembles closely the sardine omelette.

[154] A FISH STEW _PATINA ZOMORE_ [1]

THE ZOMORE FISH DISH IS MADE AS FOLLOWS [2] TAKE RAW GANONAS [3] AND OTHER [fish] WHICHEVER YOU LIKE, PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A BUNCH [4] OF LEEKS AND [green] CORIANDER; WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A BUNCH OF ORIGANY WHICH CRUSH BY ITSELF AND DILUTE WITH THE JUICE [5] OF THE FISH. NOW DISSOLVE [break and beat egg yolks for a _liaison_] PREPARE AND TASTE THE DISH, BINDING [the sauce with the yolks] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] List. _Zomoteganite_--"a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor"; G.-V. _zomoteganon_; Lan. _zomoreganonas_; Vat. Ms. _zomonam Ganas_.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] _ganonas crudas_--an unidentified fish.

[4] "Bouquet garni."

[5] _ius de suo sibi_--old Plautian latinity. Cf. H. C. Coote, cit. Apiciana; the proof of the antiquity and the genuineness of Apicius.

[155] SOLE IN WHITE WINE _PATINA EX SOLEIS_ [1]

A DISH OF SOLE IS THUS MADE [2] BEAT THE SOLE [3] PREPARE [4] AND PLACE THEM IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, AND POACH THEM THUS; NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND ADD OF THE FISH JUICE; THEN BIND THE SAUCE WITH RAW EGGS [yolks] TO MAKE A GOOD CREAMY SAUCE OF IT; STRAIN THIS OVER THE SOLE, HEAT ALL ON A SLOW FIRE [to fill it with live heat] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [5].

[1] G.-V. _P. solearum_.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] Beat, to make tender, to be able to remove the skin.

[4] Tor. _curatos_--trim, skin, remove entrails, wash.

[5] One of the best of Apician accomplishments. Exactly like our modern _sole au vin blanc_, one of the most aristocratic of dishes. Cf. {Rx} No. 487, Excerpta, XIX.

[155a] FISH LIQUOR _PATINA EX PISCIBUS_

A LIQUOR [in which to cook fish] IS MADE BY TAKING [1] ONE OUNCE OF PEPPER, ONE PINT OF REDUCED WINE, ONE PINT OF SPICED WINE AND TWO OUNCES OF OIL.

[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[156] A DISH OF LITTLE FISH _PATINA DE PISCICULIS_ [1]

TAKE RAISINS, PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, WINE, BROTH AND OIL, PLACE THIS IN A PAN; AFTER THIS HAS COOKED ADD TO IT THE COOKED SMALL FISH, BIND WITH ROUX AND SERVE.

[1] Smelts, anchovies, whitebait.

[157] A DISH OF TOOTH FISH, DORY OR SEA MULLET AND OYSTERS _PATINA DE PISCIBUS DENTICE, AURATA ET MUGILE_ [1]

TAKE THE FISH, PREPARE [clean, trim, wash] AND HALF BROIL OR FRY THEM; THEREUPON SHRED THEM [in good-sized] PIECES: NEXT PREPARE OYSTERS; PUT IN A MORTAR 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH. ADD A SMALL GLASS OF BROTH, ONE OF WINE TO IT; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN 3 OUNCES OF OIL AND THE [shelled] OYSTERS AND LET THEM POACH WITH WINE SAUCE. WHEN THEY ARE DONE, OIL A DISH ON WHICH PLACE THE ABOVE MENTIONED FISH PIECES AND STEWED OYSTERS, HEAT AGAIN, AND WHEN HOT, BREAK 40 [2] EGGS [whip them] AND POUR THEM OVER THE OYSTERS, SO THAT THEY CONGEAL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [3].

[1] _dentex_--"tooth-fish"; _aurata_--"gilt"--dory, red snapper; _mugilis_--Sea Mullet, according to some.

[2] G.-V. _ova XI_--11 eggs. Tac. _ova Xl_, which may be read XL--forty.

[3] This dish may be allowed to congeal slowly; if done quickly it may become a dish of scrambled eggs with fish and oysters.

[158] SEA BASS, OR BARRACUDA _PATINA DE LUPO_ [1]

GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE AND DROPS OF OIL [2].

[1] G.-V. _p. de pisce lupo_--wolf, because of its voracity; a sea fish, sea pike, or sea bass; perhaps akin to our barracuda, wolfish both in appearance and character. Sch. _Perca labrax_ Lin.

[2] The cleaned fish is cut into convenient portions or fillets, placed in an oiled pan, the ingredients spread over; it is either poached in the oven or cooked under the open fire.

Schuch here inserts his {Rx} Nos. 153 to 166 which more properly belong among the Excerpta of Vinidarius and which are found at the end