Book I

.; Lister thinks this is a cucumber

CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS

Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17

CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough

CNECON, {Rx} 16

CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle

CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting

COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, "cockles," periwinkles, {Rx} 323-25. ---- LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail "farm," place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. Also a "spoonful," a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, 1/4 cyathus, the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail

COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica

COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria

COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling

COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted

COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS

COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook

COCULUM, a cooking vessel

COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see

Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. 13

COLADIUM, --EDIUM, --ESIUM, --OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see

Colander, illustration of a, p. 58

COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, {Rx} 87-92

COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. {Rx} 73

COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322

COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58

COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, --A, squab, {Rx} 220. Also used as an endearing term

Columella, writer on agriculture; ---- on bulbs, {Rx} 307; ---- mentioning Matius, {Rx} 167

COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives "swimming" in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool

Combination of dishes, {Rx} 46

Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272

Commodus, a Roman, {Rx} 197

Compôte of early fruit, {Rx} 177

CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked "in the shell" or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; {Rx} 194-98, 411. ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 195; ---- DE PISA, {Rx} 196; ---- COMMODIANA, {Rx} 197; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 199

CONCHICLATUS, {Rx} 199

CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM

CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve

CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM

CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker

CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer

CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling ---- VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. CONDITURA. ---- PRO PELAMIDE, {Rx} 445; ---- PRO THYNNO, {Rx} 446; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 447; ---- IN RUBELLIONEM, {Rx} 448; ---- RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, {Rx} 449; ---- LACERTOS, {Rx} 456; ---- PRO LACERTO ASSO, {Rx} 457; ---- THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, {Rx} 458; ---- DENTICIS, {Rx} 460; ---- IN DENTICE ELIXO, {Rx} 461; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 462; ---- IN AURATAM ASSAM, {Rx} 463; ---- SCORPIONES, {Rx} 464; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466; ---- ALIUD ---- ANGUILLAE, {Rx} 467

CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; ---- MELIRHOMUM, {Rx} 2 ---- ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ---- PARADOXUM, {Rx} 1 ---- VIOLARUM, {Rx} 5 ---- Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253

CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the nature of the several preparations listed under these headings,

## particularly as follows: ---- ROSATUM, {Rx} 4; (cf. No. 5) ----

MELLIS, {Rx} 17; ---- UVARUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM PUNICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- COTONIORUM, {Rx} 19; ---- FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM MEDICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- MORORUM, {Rx} 25; ---- OLERUM, {Rx} 26; ---- RUMICIS, {Rx} 27; ---- LAPAE, {Rx} 27; ---- DURACINORUM, {Rx} 29; ---- PRUNORUM, etc., {Rx} 30 --in most of these instances corresponds to our modern "preserving"

CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,--Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a "slippery" fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays

CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See SATUREIA

CONYZA, the viscous elecampane

Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess

The cook's work place (formerly ATRIUM, the "black" smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth

The German and Swedish for "kitchen" are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words "cook" and "KOCH" are directly related to COQUUS

A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek--"MAGEIROS"--plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself "chief cook," although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb "to knead," which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor

The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, "that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors." The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively

The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two "ENTREMETIERS." The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA--what's the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, "Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!" Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, "What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?"

From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the "maître d'hôtel" of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen

The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. "The Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks" by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and "Roman Cooks" by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject

Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical review of the Apicius book ---- examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 17, 229, 230, 384, 429 ---- of flavoring and spicing, {Rx} 15, 277, 281, 369 ---- deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, {Rx} 15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428 ---- modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, {Rx} 204 seq. ---- examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, {Rx} 212-14, 229, 230, 292 ---- removing sinews from fowl, {Rx} 213 ---- utensils, p. 15

Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273

COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7

COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, {Rx} 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355

Copper in Vegetable Cookery, {Rx} 66

Copyists and their work, p. 14

COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, --IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, --IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook

COR, heart

CORDYLA, CORDILLA, {Rx} 419, 423

CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract

Corn, green, {Rx} 99

CORNUM, cornel berry; "CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT"--Platina

CORNUTUS, horn-fish, {Rx} 442

CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus

CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS

COTANA, see COCTANA

COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig's tails

COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony

COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, {Rx} 163

COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, 1/2 sextarius

COTURNIX, quail

COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor

Court-bouillon, {Rx} 37, 138

Cow-parsnips, p. 188, {Rx} 115-122, 183

COXA, {Rx} 288

Crabs, {Rx} 485; crabmeat croquettes, {Rx} 44

Cracklings, p. 285, {Rx} 255

Crane, {Rx} 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, {Rx} 214-17

CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container--see illustrations, p. 140

CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182

Crême renversée, {Rx} 129, 143

CREMORE, DE--, {Rx} 172

CRETICUM HYSOPUM, {Rx} 29, Cretan hyssop

CROCUS, --OS, --ON, --UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron

Croquettes, {Rx} 42, seq.

Cucumber, CUCUMIS, {Rx} 82-84

CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, {Rx} 73-80, 136

CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen

CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long

CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, {Rx} 237

Cumberland sauce, {Rx} 345

CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, --US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, {Rx} 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, {Rx} 178

CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony

CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica

CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a "cooper" is a man who makes them

CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric

Custard, brain, {Rx} 27; ---- nut, {Rx} 128, 142; ---- of vegetables and brain, {Rx} 130; ---- of elderberries, {Rx} 134; ---- rose, {Rx} 135; see also {Rx} 301

Cutlets, {Rx} 261, 471-3

Cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 406-8

CYAMUS, Egyptian bean

CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, {Rx} 131

CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, {Rx} 163, see also Malus

CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, {Rx} 87-9-92

CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM

CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene

D

DACTYLIS, long, "finger-like" grape or raisin; --US, long date, fruit of a date tree, {Rx} 30

DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA

DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, {Rx} 30. Either fresh or dried

Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271

Dasheen, {Rx} 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322

Dates, stuffed, {Rx} 294

DAUCUM, --US, --ON, a carrot

DE CHINE, see Dasheen

"Decline of the West," p. 17

DECOQUO, to boil down

DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept

DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color

DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, "Tooth-Fish," {Rx} 157, 459-60

Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125

Desserts, absent, p. 43

Desserts, Apician, {Rx} 143, 294, seq.

DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, {Rx} 432

Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252

Didius Julianus, {Rx} 178

Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273

Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37 ---- in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18

Diocles, writer, {Rx} 409

Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141

Dipper, illustrated, p. 3

DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter

Disguising foods, {Rx} 133, pp. 33-4

Distillation, see Vinum

Dormouse, {Rx} 396

Dory, {Rx} 157, 462-5

Doves, p. 265

Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8

Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16

Duck, p. 265, {Rx} 212-3; ---- with turnips, {Rx} 214-7

DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, {Rx} 16, 216, 294-6 --RIUS, pastry cook, {Rx} 294

Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24

Dumpling of pheasant, {Rx} 48; ---- and HYDROGARUM, {Rx} 49; ---- with broth, plain, {Rx} 52, 181

DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; ---- PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, {Rx} 28

E

Early fruit, stewed, {Rx} 177

ECHINUS, sea-urchin, {Rx} 412-17

Economical methods: flavoring, {Rx} 15

EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton

EDULA, chitterlings

Eel, {Rx} 466-7

Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93

Eggs, {Rx} 326-28; ---- fried, {Rx} 336; ---- boiled, {Rx} 327; ---- poached, {Rx} 328; ---- scrambled with fish and oysters, {Rx} 159

Eglantine, {Rx} 171

Egyptian Bean, {Rx} 322; also see CYAMUS

EIERKÄSE, {Rx} 125, 301

ELAEOGARUM, {Rx} 33

Elderberry custard, {Rx} 135

ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. --US, --UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction

EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, {Rx} 344

EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish "covered over"; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, {Rx} 431

Endives, {Rx} 109

Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana

Entrées, potted, {Rx} 54, 55; ---- sauces, {Rx} 56; ---- of fish, poultry and sausage, {Rx} 139; ---- of fowl and livers, {Rx} 175

EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of