Book IX

, as shown in the beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by G.-V., to wit, XII, _IUS IN MULLO TARICHO_ and XIII, _SALSUM SINE SALSO_, but these are more properly included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of the above fish were salt, and probably were important commercial articles. The _silurus_, for instance, is best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red mullet, as seen in {Rx} No. 427 came from the sea of Galilee. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149.

[2] _Silurus_, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, in the U. S. called horn-pout--a large catfish.

[3] _Pelamis_, a tunny before it is a year old.

[4] Tunny, Tunafish.

[5] Tor. wanting in the others.

[6] Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 424.

XII

[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET _IUS IN MULLO _[1]_ TARICHO_ [2]

IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT [4].

[1] Tor. _mulo_, the red sur-mullet--a very esteemed fish.

[2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee. Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as _Tarichus_. This became finally a generic name for all kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from elsewhere. We have an interesting analogy in "Finnan Haddie," smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted into "Finnan," and now used for any kind of smoked Haddock. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149.

[3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of condiments for salt fish.

[4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the next formula, implying that more salt be added to the salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be added which of course, is correct.

XIII

ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?] _ALITER, SINE SALSO_ [1]

[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING _SALSUM, SINE SALSO_ [2]

COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking] SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7].

[1] Tor.

[2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning may be, "Salt Fish, without salt pork" as salt fish is frequently served with bacon.

[3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made.

[4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of hare, etc., predominated.

[5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor.

[6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, artistically finished, same as we possess them today; such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf. {Rx} No. 384.

[7] This is an attempt to make a "fish" of livers, not so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and a most ingenious device, requiring much skill.

This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the utilization of good things which are often discarded as worthless.

[429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE! _ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI_ [1]

CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL, INCORPORATE WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE.

[1] G.-V. _Alter vice salsi_.

[2] Tor. _& salibus imbue_; List. _& salsa redde_. There is no sense to Lister's version, nor can we accept G.-V. who have _et salari defundes_.

[430] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER SALSUM IN _[1]_ SALSO_

TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A SOUR STOMACH AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2].

[1] Tor., G.-V. _sine_.

[2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork; but the formula obviously is of a medicinal character and has no place here.

XII [XIV]

[431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW _EMBRACTUM _[1]_ BAIANUM_ [2]

MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND SEA NETTLES PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL.

[1] List. _emphractum_--a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews of this sort are very popular in the South of Europe, the most famous among them being the _Bouillabaisse_ of Marseilles.

[2] Baiæ, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients located in the bay of Naples. The stew was named after the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca warned against it.

[3] Tor. _spondylos_; List. _sphondylos_--scallops. Both terms, if used in connection with the shellfish are correct. Lister in several places confuses this term with _spongiolus_--mushroom. This instance is the final vindication of Torinus, whose correctness was maintained in {Rx} Nos. 41, 47, 115, _seq._; 120, 121, 183, 309, _seq._

END OF BOOK IX [1]

_EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS_ [2]

[1] It appears to us that Book IX and the following,

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