Book V
LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, {Rx} 183-4
LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress
LEPOREM MADIDUM, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- FARSUM, {Rx} 384; ---- PASSENIANUM, {Rx} 389; ---- ISICIATUM, {Rx} 390; ---- FARSILEM, {Rx} 391; ---- ELIXIUM, {Rx} 392; ---- SICCO SPARSUM, {Rx} 394; ---- LEPORIS CONDITURA, {Rx} 393-5
LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, {Rx} 382-395
Lettuce, B. V, {Rx} 105, 109-111; ---- and endives, {Rx} 109; ---- purée of, {Rx} 130
LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile
LEUCOZOMUS, "creamed," prepared with milk, {Rx} 250
Lex Fannia, {Rx} 166
Liaison, lié, {Rx} 54; cf. AMYLARE
LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, {Rx} 251
LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. "lb." still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales
LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum
LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.
LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370
LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see {Rx} 9, 42
Liquids, Summary of, p. 370 ---- thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf. AMYLARE
Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice ---- quoted in many foot notes, {Rx} 8, seq. ---- assailing Torinus, p. 13, {Rx} 15, 26, 100, 205 ---- edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250
Liver kromeskis, {Rx} 44; fig-fed, of pig, {Rx} 259-60; ---- and lungs, {Rx} 291-3; ---- hash, {Rx} 293; ---- of fish, see GARUM and Pollio
Lobster, {Rx} 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways
LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; {Rx} 397-402, 485; ---- ASSAE, {Rx} 398; ---- ELIXAE, {Rx} 399, 401-2
Loins, p. 285, {Rx} 286
LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 405
LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, {Rx} 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS
LONGANO, a blood sausage, {Rx} 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in {Rx} 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, {Rx} 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent "most voluptuous, soft and delicate" because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent
This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North
Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 61; see also LONGANO
LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA
Lucretian Dish, {Rx} 151
Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.
LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA
LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), {Rx} 286; LUMBELLI, {Rx} 255
Lung, {Rx} 291-2
LUPINUS, lupine
LUPUS, fish, {Rx} 158
M
MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher
MACELLUM, market
MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated
MACTRA, trough for kneading dough
MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS
MALABATHRUM --THRON, {Rx} 32, 399
Mallows, {Rx} 86
MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; ---- PUNICORUM, pomegranate; ---- ASSYRIA, ---- CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; ---- MEDICA, citron tree; ---- CYDONIA, quince tree
MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. {Rx} 18, 20. See also CITRUM
It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery
MALUM PUNICUM, {Rx} 20, 21; ---- CYDONIUM, {Rx} 21; ---- GRANATUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MEDICUM, {Rx} 24; ---- ROSEUM, {Rx} 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as "Roman Beauty." We concur in Schuch's opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose
MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton
MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57
Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host's party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited
This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age
Marcellus, a Roman physician, {Rx} 29
Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, {Rx} 11, 236, 244, 394; cf. EMBAMMA
MARJORANA, marjoram
Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342
MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound
Martial, writer, p. 10, {Rx} 307, 461 (on bulbs)
Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935
Mason, Mrs., a writer, {Rx} 126
MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.
Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, {Rx} 167; apples named after him, _ibid._
MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, {Rx} 126, 480
Meal mush,