Book I
; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.
The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.
G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.
NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON
APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MA || JESTATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI: || TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV.
The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.
8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's letters, etc. pag. 269.
"'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365."
On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them "Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men.
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705
The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.}
{Transcription:
APICIANA
APICII C{OE}LII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, Sive Arte Coquinaria, LIBRI DECEM.
Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Majestatis Reginæ Annæ.
ET
Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, & VARIORUM.
LONDINI: Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.}
Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect.
{Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE
of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}
{Transcription:
_Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_ Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_.
Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury. Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland. J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland. J. _Lord_ Sommers. Charles _Lord_ Hallifax. J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich. Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells. Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_. _Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_. _Sir_ Christopher Wren. Tho. Foley, _Esq_; Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_. William Gore, _Esq_; Francis Ashton, _Esq_; _Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg. John Hutton, } Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._ Hans Sloane. }}
NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM
APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MAJE || STATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ, || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. || AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS. || M D C C I X.
Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.
Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez estimée. On peut l'annexer à la collection des Variorum d'après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livres rares et précieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.
The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.
Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs.
NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT
CÆLII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHÆL BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CÆSAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED. D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN || DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULÆ, PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRÆFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS || ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIÆ IMPERIALI || NATURÆ SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS.
The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also:
"Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit."
On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.
Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.
Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.
Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.
NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LÜBECK
[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.
NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH
APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.
Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.
NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE
APITIUS CÆLIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO.
8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.
Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.
NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG
APICI CÆLI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM || LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT || CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGÆ, 1867.
8vo. pp. 202.
Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.
NO. 15, A.D. 1874
[The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGÆ, 1874, [Winter].
Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.
NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG
DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTRÖMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.
NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG
APICIUS CÆLIUS: ALTRÖMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BÜCHERN. Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.
NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG
APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA || QVÆ EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER || LIPSIÆ IN ÆDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII.
NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS
LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Première fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8.
No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du mème auteur_"--a full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the _incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. _Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_, with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.
Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.
However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.
A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.
The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.
The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.
Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.
NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO
Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.
DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES
NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT
DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.
NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT
POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569.
NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP
SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA, AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA || LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUÆDAM || LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VÆNEUNT ANTUERPIÆ IN ÆDI || BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN. GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV.
Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors,
## partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely
fictitious.
In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.
NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG
FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.
NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON
H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archæologia, vol. XLI.
Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.
NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES
CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO. Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.
NO. 27, AD. 1920
FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS. Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).
NO. 28, A.D. 1921
G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI.
NO. 29, AD. 1927
UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Lösung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.
Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book.
APICIANÆ FINIS
{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES
Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.}
INDEX and VOCABULARY
A
Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana
Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv
ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance
ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa
Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM
ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3
ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3
ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3
ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147
ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart
ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see Measures
ACETUM, vinegar ---- MULSUM, mead
ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle
ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER
ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine
ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones
ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel
ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO
ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale
ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste
ACUS, same as ACICULA
Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138
ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192
Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive
Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287
Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6
Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. 5-6
AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine
AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of