Part 1

=Hunting a Home in Brazil.= THE AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND OTHER _CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY_. ALSO, THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS.

By J. McF. GASTON, M. D., COLUMBIA, S. C.

Late Surgeon Confederate Army.

PHILADELPHIA: KING & BAIRD, PRINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET. 1867.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by

J. McF. GASTON, M. D.,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

INTRODUCTION.

The present publication is the result of observations made during an extended tour in the central portion of Brazil.

The most ample facilities for exploring the territory were afforded by the authorities of the empire, and more especially by that high-toned gentleman and liberal-minded statesman, Conselheiro Dom Antonio Francisco de Paula e Sousa, to whose personal and official support is due whatever of value may attach to this collection of facts.

This daily record was made for the information of a number of personal friends, but the conviction that many other persons are also interested in a region of such vast resources, induces the author to submit it to the public, as a faithful description of the soil, productive climate, people and government, of the country.

All the requisites of a desirable home have been found in Brazil; and a consideration of the data here presented may enable those concerned to determine upon the propriety of transferring their residence to that favored land.

HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL.

Having made a pleasant voyage from New York, it was announced early on the morning of Tuesday, September 12th, 1865, that our vessel had passed Cape Frio, and that we were approaching the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The rugged shore upon our right hand presented rather a dreary aspect, relieved now and then by a few scrubby trees, or the green foliage of vines springing from the crevices of the rocks. This mountainous rock-bound coast is very irregular in its outline; and the ocean, dashing against its base, throws the white foam of the waves high upon its sloping edge, then to break into spray, and fall back into roaring waters.

The guardians of the entrance consist of two conical islands of solid rock, known as Pai (father) and Mai, (mother.) Farther south there is another small island of rock, upon which stands a light-house to guide vessels approaching at night.

The indications for the mariner are so distinct, and the water so deep and free from obstructions at all points, that pilots are not required.

The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the world.

The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to 70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°, but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now, in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty cliffs.

Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea, we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city immediately upon the margin of the water.

A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right, projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our flag being English,[1] the language corresponded to the supposed nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be asked at this place.

We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the ramparts.

In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which flank these works on each side.

Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going ashore.

This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married, when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us, and shook hands with all upon leaving.

The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on shore.

We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.

Before leaving the bark, it should be mentioned that several boats came along side with cards from the respective ship chandlers, which they were very intent upon delivering to the captain, with an invitation to take a seat in the boat for a row to the city. One of these was from the firm of Baldwin & Co., with which he expected to deal, and at which we stopped a short time after going ashore. Mr. Baldwin had left the city for a visit to Baltimore, and we were told that his impression was, that an honest man ought not to continue in this branch of business. The house however seems to be well supplied with the various articles usually needed aboard of ships, and it is likely that persons needing to purchase any thing in this line may do so on as favorable terms here as elsewhere in the city of Rio.

From this place, which is very near the wharf, we proceeded with the captain to the house of Phipps Brothers & Co., on Rua Pescadores, who are the consignees of his cargo. The young men in the office spoke English, and were very accommodating in giving us information in regard to various matters outside of their business. We learned that Colonel Clarey from the city of Baltimore had arrived in this city a few days previous, and it was supposed that he was still here. But we were subsequently informed that he had left the city, and proceeded by way of Santos to the city of São Paulo.

In passing through this business part of the city, several negro men were seen with little else than a cloth around their loins, carrying immense burdens; while negro women were seated upon the side-walks with the body of a chemise as the only covering above their waists. These women were engaged in traffic of various kinds, and seemed to be as entirely unconscious of any undue exposure as we would suppose Eve was, originally, in the garden of Eden.

The captain had some Brazilian money, and made a very satisfactory trade with one of these women, getting three oranges for a dump, which is equal to two cents, and bought enough to give us all a good bait of this delicious fruit. I had a United States twenty-five cent coin, for which she was only willing to allow me eight dumps or sixteen cents, but I declined her proposition, and afterwards got ten dumps or twenty cents for my quarter of a dollar,[2] and invested a portion of it forthwith in oranges. It is one of my weak points to have an inordinate fondness for oranges, and this fruit being unusually fine in Rio, and very cheap, I expect to consume a large number daily. Bananas are also very abundant and very cheap; but it is not the season for pine-apples, and the few here are held at high prices, even as much as fifty cents each.

I was struck with the large strings of onions that were seen hanging in almost every part of the market, and was told that they are shipped to the port from Portugal in immense numbers, though the soil and climate of Brazil is said to be well adapted to their production. Those things which grow here in great abundance, without work, satisfy the wants of the lower class of people, and they do not care to devote their energies to tilling the soil.

The streets of Rio de Janeiro, in the business portion of the city, through which we passed, are for the most part very narrow, and having a depression in the middle to serve as a drain. It is difficult for two carts or other vehicles to pass each other, and on one occasion we had to enter the door of a store to avoid contact with the wheels, when two carts were passing in one of these narrow defiles leading to the store of Phipps Brothers & Co. In going to this place, however, we passed through Rua da Direita, which is at this portion perhaps the broadest street in the city, and upon this is located the business palace and the church of the Emperor, Dom Pedro II.

In front of these buildings is an open plaza, with a fountain of water on the opposite side, at which persons may be seen almost constantly filling their vessels with the pure and limpid fluid, that is conveyed by an aqueduct from the hills outside of the city.

This plaza is constantly occupied with carriages and hacks for hire, and there are also quite a number of two-wheeled tilburys, having accommodation for but one person beside the driver. Mules are generally driven in these vehicles, two to the former, and one to the latter, and while they are used almost exclusively in all public equipages, it is not uncommon to see a fine pair of mules likewise in an elegant private carriage.

The mules here present a fine appearance, being of large size and having good action, with apparently more life and spirit than the mules with us in the United States. This however is accounted for by the comparatively light service which is done by them, which came under my observation during this afternoon.

I observed that horses are also used in private equipages and for the saddle, but they did not strike me as being of superior quality. There was a number of fancy-colored horses of rather small size, in single harness, and they seemed to be compact, hardy animals, with good action, and fine spirit. They belong doubtless to the stock of wild horses captured in the plains of Buenos Ayres or in the lower provinces of Brazil, yet I had no opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to their origin.

Among the many vehicles seen in the streets of Rio de Janeiro I observed nothing like the buggy which is in common use in the United States; and the two-wheeled, one horse tilbury is so much better adapted to narrow streets and short turns that it is not likely that it will find a rival soon in the four-wheeled buggy of modern invention.

Omnibuses or “diligencia” are seen moving to and fro with great activity, and this progressive feature of a business people is evidently in successful operation, with the usual advantages accruing to a large number of customers, over that of carriages and tilburys, which are only hired by the few for transportation to a special point. The large number of negroes that are seen upon the streets, both male and female, with the marks of tattooing upon their cheeks, and in the persons of the females with fancy figures on their arms, indicates that the African slave-trade has been carried on with this country very actively at a comparatively recent period. Most of them appear strong and active, while many are not exceeding twenty-five years of age. The men were employed in such business as we might expect slaves to do, but most of the women were selling fruit or trafficking in other little dainties, as if they might be free.

I learn that it is a common thing here for a number of slaves to hire their time, and form a combination together to work out their freedom. It is decided by lot who is first made free, and the order in which the others are found, and yet all are bound to remain together and contribute all that is received into the common treasury, until the last is liberated.[3] This is among the men, and I don’t know that any such arrangement has been adopted by the women.

Upon returning to our boat, we had a view of the line of ferry boats, which has been introduced here, upon the same plan as that adopted at New York and elsewhere in the United States. A gentleman from North Carolina named Rainey organized a company here some years ago, and has brought out two double-enders from New York for this service, which run from the city proper across to Nitherohi and other points. Their trips are made with great regularity every half hour, accommodating a large number of people.

WEDNESDAY, _September 13, 1865_.

After returning from the city last night, my overcoat was found comfortable, and a blanket was used for covering during the night. The temperature this morning is very pleasant upon the water, it being 72° by Fahrenheit’s thermometer.

Having learned from Phipps & Co. that a vessel was expected to leave to-morrow for Baltimore, I made an addition to a letter written on yesterday to my wife, and putting a United States postage stamp upon it, I gave it to these gentlemen to be forwarded by the captain of the vessel.

Upon inquiry for letters at the post-office this morning, I was handed a long list of written names with the simple announcement “English” by the clerk. This implied that these persons had letters in the office, which had come through English mail, but most of the names were either Portuguese or Spanish, and very few really English. My own not being on the list, it was inferred that no letter had arrived for me. As I had left home upon the 26th of June, and gone by way of New Orleans to New York, occupying an entire month before leaving the latter port, there had evidently been sufficient time for any communication that might have been sent direct, to reach this city in advance of my arrival.

I must encounter many difficulties in my intercourse with the people of this country, from the ignorance of their language, and my objects in the line of business will be to some extent embarrassed; but there being a good many people here who speak both English and Portuguese, it may be in my power to obtain an interpreter when needed.

Having letters from Colonel A. V. Brumly to Mr. M. Tweedle and Mr. Robert Habersham, who I expected to find employed in the engineer department of the Dom Pedro II. Railroad Co., I repaired to their building, and was pleased to find that Major Ellison, chief engineer,[4] and his brother, also employed in this office, were both from the United States. I learned that Mr. Tweedle had left the road and the country long since, and that Mr. Habersham was in charge of the construction section sixteen miles above the terminus of the present track. As I wish to see the country along the line of this road and on its projected route, I hope at a future day to make a visit to Mr. Habersham.

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization, and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit. Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr. Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have considerable influence among the people and the officials of this country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time, we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city, by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and purification.[5] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise, to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having a bordering range of mountain cliffs.