Part 12

After an excellent dinner, at which Senorha presided, much after the style of our southern ladies, we were supplied with a guide by Dom Barros, and came to the villa of Araraquara. Having a letter to Senor Manuel Francisco de Oliveira, we were kindly received and well provided for at his house. I was informed that a letter had been addressed to me by the municipal authorities of this place, inviting me to visit the district, and that the people throughout the country were very desirous that we should select a location amongst them. Several gentlemen called upon us, and among them the municipal Judge, to whom I had a letter of introduction—Senor Dom Andre Dias de Aguiar. This gentleman impressed me very favorably by his courteous manner and his intelligent expression of countenance, while he manifested quite an interest in the objects of my visit, and my personal gratification.

The villa of Araraquara is located upon a plateau, which affords ample scope for extension of the town; and there is a clear bold brook running on one side of it, which affords fine water for domestic purposes and for the use of all kinds of stock. The streets are laid off at right angles, with a church and an open space in front of it in the centre of the population. I observed that there was a jail opposite the church, and yet I was informed that it was not much in demand for criminals. The style of architecture is similar to the mud-built houses seen elsewhere, being nearly all of a single story, and consequently spread over a large area, when any considerable house-room is secured. The drinking water here is superior, and the climate very pleasant.

SATURDAY, _October 21, 1865_.

Senor Candido Mariano Barba, the government agent at this place, called upon us early this morning, and manifested a desire to aid me in any way it might be practicable.[18]

It being arranged that we should go out to the fazenda of Senor Lenente Coronel Joaquim Lorenço Correa, several of the gentlemen of the villa rode out with us. Meeting the proprietor on the way, he joined us and conducted us to his extensive and well-arranged establishment, known as São Lorenço. On the way, we passed a beautiful cascade of several hundred feet in height, and then another near his place, which is also a fall of great elevation, but not containing so much water as the former. The lands adjacent to these water-falls are comparatively level, but drop down suddenly in a gorge, whose banks are precipitous for a considerable distance, as the stream descends. I observed this same thing on the premises of Dom Barros, and it is rather a striking peculiarity of the country.

The fazenda of Senor Joaquim is four miles from the villa, and passing in part through red campo land, the forest is entered within a mile of the residence, and the soil here is of superior quality. The best sugar-cane yet seen was observed on the roadside as we approached the residence, and I learned from the owner that it had been growing several years from the original roots. He finds that the cane produces here, satisfactorily, six years; and after that time it is customary to plant the ground anew.

This establishment belongs to the first class of the country, and the dwelling is located upon a gentle slope, with a paved terrace, elevated to correspond to the level of the house. The residence is very commodious, with a basement story, which adds greatly to convenience, and the general reception room is supplied with sofas and chairs, having cane seats, and of very neat workmanship. The usual plan of having the sleeping apartment opening into the parlor is found here also, and there is no ventilation excepting by this door. The outbuildings are well-arranged and of the most substantial construction, and the yard immediately around the house is inclosed with a fence, while outside of this there extends for half a mile on one side a most luxuriant grass-pasture.

At a short distance from the dwelling stands a grist-mill, saw-mill and sugar-mill, moved by water, which is brought in a race from an adjacent stream. The sugar-house is supplied with metallic cylinders to express the juice of the cane, and the quantity extracted gives a favorable idea of the richness of the growth of cane, while the syrup indicates by its taste a large proportion of saccharine matter. He has three large boilers of sheet copper placed in a furnace that is neat and substantial, while it works most efficiently. There are small troughs connecting these boilers with the large receiving-troughs, in which the syrup stands to crystallize, and the process of transforming the syrup is thus attended with little difficulty. After the sugar has formed, it is then placed in other receivers with perforations in the bottom, so that it drips and becomes dry.

The sugar is then submitted to a process of clarifying by covering it with a compost of clay and cow-dung, which seems to act favorably in rendering the superficial layers of sugar very fair, and indeed almost white. This is entirely new to me, and yet may have been resorted to in the sugarmaking regions of the United States without coming to my knowledge.

The drippings from the sugar are converted into rum, which is known here by the name of aqua-ardente, or cachaça, and this branch of the business is quite profitable, as a market is found in the country near at hand.

The sale, however, of most of the sugar made at this establishment, is readily effected in this and the adjoining districts, at the prices of Rio with addition of transportation; so that, though laboring under the apparent disadvantage of remoteness from any established market, there is really a very decided benefit in this location. He gets a higher price at his sugar-house than the manufacturers who ship to Rio or Santos can possibly get at those points, as his consumers must pay for the transportation on pack-mules, if they should go there to purchase. Moreover, I am strongly impressed with the conviction that the cane and the appliances used in this establishment, with the high-toned character of the proprietor, will furnish inducements to buyers that may not be found elsewhere. He produces annually for the market between eighty and ninety thousand pounds of sugar, for which he gets an average of seven and a half cents per pound. Let us make a calculation for eighty-five thousand pounds at seven and a half cents per pound, and it gives $6,375, from which deduct $1,375 for expenses, and we have five thousand dollars profit.

He employs only about fifteen hands, and raises besides all the corn, beans, and other provisions for his family, and also all the hogs which are required on his place. Every thing which can make life comfortable seems to be raised in the greatest abundance on this place, and he lives to a large extent within himself; but yet avails himself likewise of such importations as are requisite for success in working his fazenda, or for the comfort of his family. His family consists of seven daughters and five sons, and when one is married, or arrives at the age of twenty-one years, he gives this son or daughter three thousand dollars upon which to commence business. Four of his daughters are married, and two of his sons, while one of his sons being in the military service at the seat of war, leaves at home three daughters and two sons. The entire family excepting the older son at home, present a very robust and healthy aspect, and the constitutional stamina of the old gentleman and old lady are not surpassed in any country. The son at home, whose health suffered in the army, so that he was discharged from service, is now recovering his vigor, but has not the appearance of a good constitution like the rest of the family.

The party rode out in the afternoon to visit the coffee field (cafézar) of his son-in-law, Senor Francisco de Paula Coma e Silva. He has some twenty thousand trees of various ages, and those most advanced indicating good development, with a fair prospect for a yield. But he could give us no definite idea of the past crop.

We here regaled with oranges and bananas of the finest quality, and coffee was also handed at the house.

SUNDAY, _October 22, 1865_.

During the morning I was requested to prescribe for a little son of Senor Francisco, and as there was no medicine in the house suited to the case, we rode to the town to learn if iodine, iodide of potash, and syrup of sarsaparilla could be found at the apothecary shop.

All the articles fortunately were on hand, and the keeper of the shop promised to have the medicine ready to-morrow morning. After calling upon several parties in the villa, we were entertained with music on the accordeon by a dark-skinned gentleman, while a parrot was paraded upon the table and supposed to be marching in time to the music, of which, however, I could not have a full appreciation. As will be perceived, this was a Sunday exercise, and in the mean time our old friend, Senor Joaquim, went out to attend mass.

After returning to São Lorenço, the camarada was sent to the villa for our baggage, which had been left behind the day previous.

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family, there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this country who are on a basis of equality seems to be accompanied with great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views of propriety, as to-day.

MONDAY, _October 23, 1865_.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him, and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am unable to say whether circumstances will permit me to accept the proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in communicating with those around me, and though attended with much embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my knowledge of the Portuguese language.

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil, but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out, and sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very satisfactorily, and all promises well.

TUESDAY, _October 24, 1865_.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district, a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth, and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree. His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead of planting entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed, there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business. Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond of stock.

WEDNESDAY, _October 25, 1865_.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there was no point caught in his first presentation of the matter, and upon asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at starting and arriving.

THURSDAY, _October 26, 1865_.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence of Dom Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda, Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

FRIDAY, _October 27, 1865_.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably, and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed, each of the three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from eating too much.