Part 20

This retired spot has been selected by the authorities for a collection of rare specimens of trees, fruits and flowers, being hence styled the Botanical Garden. If any one desires to study in a small compass, many varieties of rarities, it may be done here advantageously, without a guide, as the names of most of the unusual fruits are attached to the trees by a metal card. The almond, the clove and the cinnamon tree are among this interesting assortment.

The greatest taste has been displayed in laying out these extensive grounds, and they have been most elaborately supplied with attractions, making it quite a recreation to stroll leisurely and quietly through the extended walks. No one should go to Rio without visiting this place, and a hack takes persons from Rua Direita directly to the gate.

Upon our return we stopped with Senor Mello, and found his mother and three sisters presenting more of the characteristics of our people than is usual among the ladies of this country. Though none of them spoke English, I found that my small acquisition in Portuguese availed to communicate with them to a limited extent, and the kind disposition manifested compensated for the lack of language to express their good will towards us.

Another brother of the young ladies was also present who speaks English, and with the aid of the two as interpreters, all got on very pleasantly with our party during the call.

A nice repast, with beer, wine and brandy, was served in the dining-room, and none of us having any difficulty in comprehending this phase of the entertainment, all were prepared to appreciate it. With the best wishes of the old lady, we took our leave of the household.

THURSDAY, _November 30, 1865_.

Going this morning to the office of Mr. C. Nathan for some letters he proposed to furnish for our visit to Ignape and Cananea, he sent a young man with us to the post-office to assist in examining the lists, and to make inquiries for letters. None however were found, and I must be resigned to the failure of letters by the last packet from the United States.

Upon returning, Lieutenant Fiske, formerly connected with the Confederate Navy, called to learn something of my observations upon the country, and finding that he had concluded to return to the United States, I presented no consideration calculated to change his determination, nor did I feel disposed to develop my plans to him.

Mr. Malone came in for a short conference, in which he expressed his decision to remain in the country with his family. He and his lady had at one time a female school in Memphis, Tennessee, and they will make a pleasant addition to the group of settlers wherever they may locate.

Shortly after these gentlemen left, Senor Street entered and informed me that he was authorized by the Minister of Agriculture to accompany myself, Dr. Shaw, and Major Meriwether to Conceicão and Cananea, and that all would be arranged for us to go aboard of the Santa Maria to-morrow.

Having been informed that it would be agreeable to one of the ministers who comes from Minas to see us, Mr. Mello had undertaken to arrange for a meeting, but he returned with the statement that his excellency would be in conference with the other ministers and the Emperor to-day, so that he could not see us for the present. As we leave early to-morrow, our meeting with him must be deferred.

But Dr. Shaw has concluded to make a memorandum of matters desirable to be known respecting that province, and get Mr. Mello to communicate with this honorable gentleman from Minas, so that we may be informed at a future day. One of the points of most interest to me is the facilities for hiring negroes which are said to be afforded in some parts of Minas, and it is desirable to know upon what terms they will allow them to go to other sections of Brazil, for a term of years.

All the afternoon was spent in exploring the city of Rio with Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether, for the purchase of travelling-trunks, spurs, and a thermometer; whereas, an application to some of our friends for the number and street in which these things could be found would have cost us but little trouble. Let others profit by this suggestion and save time and labor.

Though I had many personal matters of business to look after, these gentlemen desired my assistance, as they were totally unacquainted with the language, and there being no other person to whom I could refer them, it devolved upon me to accompany them. We spent a great deal of time unnecessarily, and walked ourselves completely down.

Being very tired when I returned to my room at night, I lay down upon a lounge to rest and did not awake until 11 o’clock. I then went down to search for a cup of coffee, but found every place in the vicinity was closed; and for once it occurred to me that coffee-houses might very appropriately keep late hours. Most of the eating and drinking establishments are shut up at 10 o’clock P. M. My fatigue and drowsy mood found refuge in my bed for the rest of the night.

FRIDAY, _December 1, 1865_.

Having a reserved stock of clothing in a chest at No. 92 Rua Direita, I selected this morning such articles as would be requisite for the projected tour, and proceeded to pack my baggage at a late hour, so that it was done in great haste. Thus, some things of much importance were left in the room, but as Mr. Brown retains the same quarters, I trust he may find them and deliver them to Mr. Carlos Nathan. If a word of caution can avail to induce others to pack up all baggage on the night previous to an anticipated journey, it will save them of all confusion and enable them to employ the last moments before starting much more profitably.

Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, and myself being in readiness, negroes were employed to carry our trunks upon their heads to the wharf, and we then availed ourselves of a row-boat to proceed to the Santa Maria, which lay out some distance in the bay. The three persons, with all baggage, were taken for one dollar by previous contract, as I have found that to be the best mode of doing business with these boatmen.

Our friend Mr. Mello was found on the steamer, having accompanied some friends aboard. He introduced us to Dr. Fogg, an American dentist, who has resided in Rio for twenty years and realized a handsome income from his business.

He retains his citizenship in the United States, as do most of those who have come from there to this country, and none of them, so far as I have heard, encourage our people to remove with their families to Brazil. We place our own construction upon their statements, and prefer to think and act independent of their advice.

SATURDAY, _December 2, 1865_.

The arrangements upon the Santa Maria all proved very satisfactory to Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether; and the fare was in accordance with the usual good table of this boat. A state-room with four berths was set apart for Mr. Street in conjunction with us, making it a pleasant little family party. Of course we enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and rose to find ourselves approaching the city of Santos. Landing at 8 o’clock A. M., I proceeded immediately to see my friend Mr. Wright in regard to the measures for visiting the lands near Conceicão. Finding his breakfast at hand I joined him and his family, and he afterwards came with me to see the vicar (vigairo) of this district, who was acquainted with persons in that section.

He manifested much interest in the proposed visit, and said that there was a person in town from there with whom he would confer as to our trip. The aspect of affairs was not very promising for an early move, as this individual could not go to-day and did not know whether it would be practicable to go to-morrow.

In the mean time the other two gentlemen, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether, were quartered at the Hotel Milan, and I was a guest of Mr. Wright, while Mr. Street proceeded to São Paulo to arrange with the President for the means of defraying expenses on this voyage.

I dined at the house of Mr. Wright’s father-in-law, this being his birthday, and that also of the Emperor, which made it the occasion for quite a feast of good things.

After concluding the ceremonies of the table the members of the family all shook hands with each other, this being a custom of constant observance among them after dinner, even on ordinary occasions.[22]

Learning that there was a site for buildings with some lands attached, upon the seaside, which were offered for sale, Mr. Wright went with us to see the place. He supplied me with a horse, and the other two gentlemen were supplied from the livery stable. A young man was sent by the owner to show us the premises, and I observed that he was riding a mare, which is the first time that one has been observed in service anywhere in the country. In the stockgrowing region they are confined to trading, and there seems to be an impression that they are not suited for the saddle or for pack service, as the valuation of mares is much below that of horses.

After riding five miles through the hot sun we found a location which might, with a large outlay for improvements, become a very nice residence for a family. It is at a point where the serra approaches the water of the ocean, and thus getting the full benefit of the sea-breeze. The property includes a portion of the level low land with a portion of the elevated land, and there is a small clear stream of water running down the slope, which has been used in former days for the machinery of a sugar-mill. From the antiquated look of the relics, we might readily suppose that this was the identical establishment erected by Martin Affonso in 1533, to work the cane grown in this region from specimens procured in the island of Madeira. There is now only left the stone basement of the old building, but the stream still runs fresh and pure water that might again be used for some mechanical purpose, or for other domestic uses of a family.

SUNDAY, _December 3, 1865_.

We made a commencement of this day in the right direction, by going to church before breakfast, but it was not with any reverential intentions. We ascended the high hill, Monteserrate, to take a view of the large building there located, and to enjoy the wide extended panorama to be seen all around us. One old horse, that by some legerdemain had accomplished the ascent of this lofty pinnacle, and a few goats, as full of frolic and mischief as these animals usually are, constituted the companions to the rather dreary-looking inmates of the church building. It is only upon extraordinary occasions that this church is brought into requisition, and during my former visit to the city there was an illumination of the windows at night that presented a brilliant and captivating view from the plain below. We found the ascent of the steep and narrow winding way very fatiguing, which rendered a rest quite acceptable upon reaching the summit, and it was well calculated to recall the resting-place of the dove, from which this is named.

Though it was Sunday morning, and though the service was for the church, several negroes were employed in carrying baskets of brick upon their heads, from the base to the top of this mountain, and moved up without any great inconvenience under their heavy burdens. How they undergo such labor with such weights upon their heads is a mystery to me, but it seems to be the favorite mode of transportation by the negroes here and at Rio de Janeiro.

If these darkies, however, are strong in proportion to the aroma of their persons, they ought to accomplish wonders, for the scent was overpowering as they passed us.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether joined me to-day at dinner with Mr. Wright, and concurred in my very favorable estimate of his accomplished and modest wife.

It was ascertained to-day from Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira that arrangements would be effected for us to leave here to-morrow morning in company with him, to make the voyage to Conceicão. But from the various modifications of the plan and the changes of time for leaving, I feel considerable misgivings about setting out with this man, and have requested Mr. Wright to let Mr. Clinton W. Jackson, the book-keeper in his store, accompany us on this trip as interpreter. He has consented to this, and upon returning to the hotel with a view to a final understanding, our escort not meeting us at the hour fixed, Clinton was under the necessity of going in search of him. He brought him round in a short time, with an explanation of the delay, and we were told that every thing was arranged for us to leave at five o’clock next morning in a diligence to proceed to São Vincente. This is a distance of eight miles, and thence other means are provided.

Being impressed here with the difficulty of procuring means of transportation, I telegraphed Senor Street, and wrote a note to Mr. Bennaton to arrange animals for proceeding on the 9th instant from São Paulo.

MONDAY, _December 4, 1865_.

We made an early start from Santos in the diligence, accompanied by Senor Ferreira, and reached São Vincente in good time for breakfast.

Here was the first settlement of civilized man in this region, Martin Affonso having landed at the port near by, in 1532, and as a preliminary step erected a fort to protect his people from the Indians who then held possession of the country. There were various tribes of Indians throughout the country, and through the intervention of João Ramalho, a Portuguese who had been left upon this coast by a vessel early in that century, a portion of these tribes became friendly to the newcomers, and the town of São Vincente was established. A church and a school soon sprung up here, and there was a prospect of an increasing population by accessions from the mother country. But the hostile tribes of Indians made frequent incursions, in which great outrages were committed, and the sense of insecurity prevented any material advancement in the place. The obstruction of the harbor ultimately by sand prevented the entrance of vessels, and the present site of Santos became the port, and business was transferred to that place.

The villa of São Vincente has perhaps been stationary for over a hundred years as regards population; and it seems to be the residence of a lazy, listless gang of very ordinary people. There is a large church and a number of houses, perhaps in all, fifty, which form one short street. The inn at which we got breakfast and a few shops do all the business.

Taking our carpet-bags in our hands we set out at 8 o’clock for the canoe-landing, and crossed the Bertioga to the main land in about half an hour. Again we proceeded on foot, with a rain falling that drenched us thoroughly; and the ground being flat was soon covered everywhere with water, so that walking was attended with much difficulty. It was expected that a walk of three miles would take us to the beach, where a cart was to be in waiting. But not finding any conveyance it became necessary to travel on foot four miles farther. Here, however, we had the firm sandy beach, and apart from the rain, the operation of walking was not disagreeable.

At length the covered cart or diligence of this Senor Ferreira was reached; and all hands being in good keeping for a lunch, the eatables provided for us at Santos were drawn forth. With a cup of hot coffee prepared by the inmates of the house where we stopped, and the bread stuffed with sausages, all were refreshed for the progress in the cart. This turnout for the transportation of persons along the beach is quite a novelty, both in mode of construction and in its being recently built for this express line. The wheels are made of hard wood and have no iron tire; but the axles are of iron, and the mechanism by which the front connects with the body is quite too complicated for description. The body is panelled, with seats extending along each side within, after the omnibus style. The cover is of cotton cloth which has been smeared with oil, but not serving to exclude water, as we had ample opportunity to testify. The three mules moved off at a fair gait under the frequent lashings of our German postilion; but after travelling eight or ten miles they became very dull, and their pace was so much slackened, notwithstanding the German’s antidote, that the progress was suspended for the jaded animals to recuperate their energies.

In the mean time Major Meriwether and I proceeded on foot, so as to relieve the mules of our weight when they might resume the advance. It was raining some and blowing considerably, but fortunately the wind came upon our backs so as to assist our progress. Any one who has ever been upon a sea-beach with a strong wind can fully appreciate the importance of having it to favor your course. With this firm level beach and a very light vehicle, with sails attached, it would have been quite practicable to keep ahead of these slow movers. Indeed the idea of a windmill attached to the wheels of a car upon a railway might be made available for running even against the wind. The cogs upon a trunnel head might be so adjusted as to work upon the cogs on the axles, giving them progressive motion; though the wheel of revolution by the wind should be turned to front or rear or to either side. If this suggestion could be applied to the stern-wheel of a small propeller, might it not be used to advantage in some circumstances? We know that windmills are used to draw water, and why not for turning a wheel in water in like manner?

This thought is original and perhaps novel; though it may have very little practical merit, let some one try the experiment and report the result, as the outlay for materials will be but small.

After walking four or five miles we found upon the shore a boat-shelter with a thatched roof, under which lay a large canoe. As this afforded some protection from the rain and wind, it was thought best to stop here and rest a while. A mulatto resident of the coast passed by our resting-place and said it was but two leagues (eight miles) farther to the village; but feeling inclined now to avail ourselves of the cart, we were not in a hurry to move forward. Major Meriwether observed a mulatto girl at some distance indulging her curiosity by looking at us, and supposing there must be a residence near at hand I rose and started towards her, when she left precipitately at a full run. Upon proceeding in the direction of her retreat I came upon the house or rather the shelter where the family resided, and asked for oranges and bananas, but was told that none were to be had in these parts. The only thing seen about the premises that could afford subsistence was a few stalks of mandioca; and the interior of the establishment displayed a meagreness of every thing that could contribute to comfort.

I learn that these people living along the coast depend chiefly upon fish for a living, and consequently they don’t trouble themselves much in cultivating the earth. Such things as are produced spontaneously or with little labor afford a scanty addition to their supplies from the water, and they care for nothing beside. One of these fellows had been engaged to carry our luggage before reaching the station where we took the cart, and he seemed nimble on the foot, with sufficient endurance, but this job would doubtless satisfy him for a week.

Being rested we set out afoot again, leaving a notice upon the sand, “We proceed,” and after walking two miles further, the cart was seen far to the rear. Not intending to concede that we were particularly anxious to ride, the march was continued until overtaken, which took us at least one mile more on our way. Thus we travelled on foot not less than fourteen or fifteen miles, and as the Major carried a considerable quantity of fat, with new boots that did not yield to the pressure, his feet were very much excoriated, or, as I put it, he had gum-boils on his heels.

The mules still made very slow progress, and it began to be a matter of concern whether they would take us to our destination; but a while after dark our escort announced that we were approaching the place, with the suggestion that a portion of the party should get out, and thus lighten the load through the heavy sand after leaving the beach. Upon halting opposite the store of our companion, several rockets illumined the dark regions above us, and reverberated in the stillness of this retired settlement, to signalize our arrival at Conceicão. After considerable delay we were shown to a house having nothing but bedsteads to cheer our vision, and told to make ourselves at home. A bottle of gin was the only relief to the wet, cold and hungry travellers, and as none of us had any particular fondness for this beverage, it was touched very lightly. I did not hesitate to ask for a fire, nor did I scruple subsequently to urge a more ample supply of fuel. But it was built upon an elevated scaffold, in a small room without a chimney, so that it was difficult to get any of the warmth of the fire, and the smoke pervaded every corner of the apartment, so that it was almost intolerable.

After so long a time we were served with coffee, and the remnants of our day’s lunch, which seemed to indicate that the resources of our chaperon were rather slim. But we were still further impressed with this fact when their flagmats and a single spread upon the hard boards of the bedsteads were provided for our lodging. We certainly had bed and board combined in this establishment, and a harder lot I never encountered in all my rough-and-tumble progress through the world.

A servant was directed to report to us for supplying any wants we might make known, but we were so nearly in want of every thing that it would have been an endless undertaking to have specified those things requisite for our comfort, so we determined that whatever a night may bring forth will be seen with the light of another day, and waited for something to turn up.

The reception afforded here by Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira differs so entirely from the good cheer of a Brazilian welcome, such as I have been accustomed to receive during my tour in the interior, that I have thought it proper to make a record of the details as an exception to the usual hospitable treatment extended to me by the people of this country.