Part 29

Leaving this, we again entered the territory of Senor Miguel, at a part where the configuration is more regular, and approaches in many places a level surface. It is an undulating plain, with slopes here and there of more or less abruptness; and having plateaus of elevated level land, and also flat low lands which lie along the stream, Aborbora, which runs through this land. Besides this stream, there are other smaller branches running into it, which serve to water all parts of the tract. But there is not any site, which was seen on this portion of the territory, that would be adapted to the use of water-power for machinery, and the reliance for this region must be upon the water-power of the Inguary lying between it and the port of shipment for products.

The quality of these lands varies greatly, presenting in parts great fertility, and in others evidently of less adaptation to the growth of the great staples of the country; while there is occasionally a small portion of land that seems to have been to a great extent exhausted by cultivation in by-gone years, and is overgrown with a long grass, corresponding to our broom-sage grass.

The proportion of virgin forest and second growth could not be accurately ascertained, but my impression is, that three-fourths of the territory has never been entered by the axe; and in this, the Pon D’Alho and Figaro Branco are of frequent occurrence, which are here considered as indicative of the best soil. The timber is not of that enormous dimension which was observed in some parts of the interior, nor do I consider any portion of this land equal in fertility and durability to the (terra rocha) dark purple lands of the inferior of the province. Yet the soil and the growth upon it are well adapted to the purposes of the agriculturist, and the facility for machinery, with the convenience of navigation, are matters of much moment.

I saw young corn on a portion of the tract of Senor Miguel, last described, which presented a good appearance, and also rice growing in upland that looked very favorable. Some older corn examined did not impress me as a good crop, though there was evidence of want of proper culture. The beans had evidently not yielded well, and it was stated that the time of planting by the tenants was improper.

MONDAY, _January 15, 1866_.

Having spent the night at the house of one of the tenants of this property, immediately upon the bank of a small stream known as Aborbora, it was found that we were not entirely exempt from mosquitoes, as on the night before, yet they gave us no trouble in the house whatever. This stream is one of the branches that go to make up the Rio Jacupiranga, and its name is applied to this territory, supposed to embrace two square leagues of land, owned by Senor Miguel.

In leaving this house we ascended a short abrupt hill, and reached an elevated plain which extended with only one depression for half a mile, being in part covered with original forest, and presenting a dark mulatto soil. A portion, which was cleared, had an excellent crop of rice growing upon it, though there were low lands in the vicinity which would probably have suited this article better; and this want of judgment in arranging crops seems to be general among the people of the class that become tenants in this way.

After passing this level region the land became hilly and even mountainous at one point, making the ascent and descent difficult for our animals. The soil upon these hills was inclined to a clay consistence of a yellow hue, while the increase of the palmetto and scrubby palm indicated an inferior quality of land. Yet, upon a slope of one of these hills, corn was growing well in fresh land, while it was looking badly in old land.

Upon a small creek called Ribeirão de Lagoa, a low, flat, dark-colored bottom land spread out to some distance on either side, and the corn seen upon it indicated a good soil. This stream would admit of machinery, and there is sufficient fall near the point where it was crossed to render the water-power available. It is clear and cool, so that we enjoyed a draught of the water as much as if from a spring.

The house of another tenant was located near this stream, and he had a small patch of coffee trees, that seemed to have been neglected, presenting a very untoward prospect for a crop. The position being low, is doubtless likewise an unfavorable condition, while the soil is not here suited to their growth, being deficient in stamina.

In this place was seen a hedge of a scrubby, knotty tree with numerous short, thick limbs that seemed well suited to exclude even hogs from a field; and, as it grows from the cutting, an enclosure can be readily effected in a few years.

There is also another small tree having thorns that is used for hedges, and the enclosure so made is called “cerca de espinhos,” making an effectual barrier.

Although these and other growths are available for enclosure of grounds, hedges are not very often resorted to in the country; and in the campos where the timber is wanting, large ditches are made at a great expenditure of labor, whereas a hedge could be grown to answer every purpose when only cattle and horses or mules are to be enclosed.

In this region of country, however, there is an abundant supply of timber, and the only difficulty is to find that which is favorable for splitting into rails.

After traversing the premises of another party, that contained the poorest specimen of land seen since leaving the river, we proceeded to an extension of the territory of Senor Miguel, which goes within four miles of the town of Xiririca. There corn and rice were growing very satisfactorily, and though most of the land lay unfavorably for cultivation, those parts that are cleared have a comparatively level surface.

Near this portion of the land a field of coffee, on the premises of another party, presented a very encouraging prospect for a yield, being generally loaded heavily with fruit. This was upon a steep hillside from which the superficial soil had disappeared, and the mulatto clay formation, which forms the basis of most parts throughout this region, remained alone to support the growth of the trees. These elevated lands are thought to be most favorable to the coffee.

From this point we retraced our steps for a few miles, and then descended a stream called Braço de Gado for six or seven miles along a low, flat, and broad bottom land, having elevated lands on each side. A tenant occupies a house where we entered this territory, and there is near by an extensive fall in the stream above-named, which would be available for an overshot wheel of any desired size.

This point is particularly suitable for the location of machinery, as it is but four miles from Xiririca, with a road already in use which could be readily made to serve for wagons. It is, besides, near the direct line of communication between this place and Cananea.

In the course of the Braço de Gado several small streams enter from each side, affording water for the several humble families who occupy houses at different points by the favor of the owner.

The ridges upon each side, approaching a mountainous elevation, constitute the boundary lines of this property; and the breadth varies from three to four miles, while the length is considered to be six miles. The slopes of the hills on each side admit for the most part of ready cultivation; and the soil being of a dark gray aspect with a mulatto clay base, is adapted to all the staples, yet the most irregular portions would be most appropriately used for coffee. I saw good corn growing far up on the side of one of these slopes, and corn and rice were also seen upon the level plain below, but was too young to determine what would be the result.

This low land is generally level, and yet is not at all marshy, as the stream has a deep channel below the surface of the ground with abrupt angular banks, so that the water does not overflow except in immense falls of rain causing a flood of water.

The earth is solid throughout this bottom, and the road firm and good, except at the crossings of some of the small branches. With very little work a fine wagon-road could be made extending along this stream on a level route, communicating above with the road to Xiririca, or extending below some four or five miles over the same kind of surface to the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest canoes thence to its mouth.

TUESDAY, _January 16, 1866_.

We spent the night at the house of a mulatto man named Senor Bartholomew da Costa; and having a heavy rain, the Braço de Gado was so full this morning that it could not be forded without swimming. Notwithstanding this flood of water, there were very few points at which it overflowed the high banks, and yet it did not fall sufficiently during the day for us to cross it, so that we remained at this place observing what was to be seen about the premises of this gentleman of color.

A patch of coffee, having some two thousand trees, was examined, which afforded a poor prospect of a yield. This was, in part, perhaps, attributable to being planted with a southern exposure, instead of facing towards the east; yet it is most likely that the soil is deficient in those elements suited to the production of coffee.

Corn and rice were growing well in the flat land along the stream, but most of it was too young to form a proper opinion as to the yield. Observing that the rice was missing in various places, I was told by the owner that it had been eaten by rats which live in the woods, of whose voracity there is no reason to doubt; though this is the first time that these rats have been heard of in the country.

Here it was observed that the cows were very much annoyed by a fly which deposits its egg in the flesh and causes numerous points of irritation in the skin. The same result ensues when they make a deposit in the human skin.[32]

WEDNESDAY, _January 17, 1866_.

Finding the Braço de Gado reduced again to its natural channel, we left our imprisonment, enjoying another day as bright and clear as that of yesterday, until late in the afternoon, when there was a slight shower of rain. This body of land is the possession of Senor Miguel, and we proceeded from it across the ridge towards the Ribeiro to examine another tract owned by him, of a configuration and quality that is better suited to agricultural operations than any of the territory thus far seen. There is perhaps a square league of land in this lot; and it combines original forest, secondary growth, and open cultivated fields. A large portion of the original forest is well timbered, and not so irregular as to prevent cultivation with the plough; but there is one part that assumes a mountainous character and of course precludes ordinary culture. On the crest of this elevation I was informed that crops had been grown and that the soil was good, but I did not make the ascent.

In the lands under cultivation I saw a few patches of corn, some of which was growing well, while others indicated an exhausted soil as well as deficient culture. At one small house where we stopped there were rice and peas, which the negro tenant had grown on the place; and at another there was a considerable lot of corn. There is upon this place a site where a large rice-mill was formerly in operation, and might be made available again for machinery. I found the effects of the fly upon the skin of cattle here also, and any quantity of mosquitoes in the wood.

THURSDAY, _January 18, 1866_.

After a tour of five days and a return to the comforts of home, Senor Miguel announced this as a day of rest for us; but a few points may be adverted to in connection with my past observations upon the surroundings of this place.

This section of country about Xiririca is exempt from local or epidemic diseases, and the general constitutional stamina of the population indicates vigorous health. Goitre and leprosy, which are found in most other sections, are unknown in this region. The climate is free from that oppressive heat which prevails in higher latitudes, and which is observed in less elevated localities.

The atmosphere is also free from fogs or any other undue dampness. I am here in what is known to be the rainy season of this country, and setting out from the homestead of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge on Saturday, the 13th inst., we ascended the Ribeira de Ignape for twenty-five miles, and during the entire day the sun was shining brightly, and only a mere sprinkle late in the evening for a few moments. On the following day we crossed the range of hills at right angles from the river, proceeding some eight or ten miles, and again the sun shone brightly all the day without any thing more than a light sprinkle late in the afternoon. On the third day we traversed hills and valleys on a line parallel with the Ribeira for a distance of fifteen miles, and still the sun shone brightly throughout the day with no signs of rain until night. On the fourth day the sun beamed forth again, and the brightness of the fifth was only marred by a sprinkle in the evening.

FRIDAY, _January 19, 1866_.

My friend Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge arranged that his son, Senor Guilherme, should accompany me to-day to visit the lands lying between our former route and the river. Setting out with a guide from Caiacauga, we proceeded nearly four miles upon the road by which we returned from our former tour, and then diverging to the right hand, we passed through a portion of land lying favorably, and with good soil. This is located upon a stream which forms the line of division between the territory which Senor Miguel proposes to sell and that of his home place.

This stream further up has a good site for machinery, which is located upon lands of Senor João Franco, that will be disposed of if they are desired. This point would serve a good purpose in regard to much of the land, which is best suited for agricultural operations, yet it is six or eight miles from the Ribeira, upon which shipment must be made.

With a view to accommodate the products of these lands, Senor Miguel proposes to donate land for a depot on the river below his residence, to which point there is a practicable route for a road, which is now in use.

After passing the mill site to which allusion is above made, we ascended a very steep mountain, and the descent was equally steep on the other side, so that this soil, though presenting a favorable aspect, is not likely to be in requisition for cultivation.

Leaving this elevation we visited a coffee field of Senor Francisco de Paula, upon the slope of a high hill. The trees were generally about six years growth, and consequently at that age when the yield should be best, yet the crop was by no means good, while the size and appearance of the trees was unfavorable.

Whether the nature of the soil or the manner of planting may be the cause of the failure, I could form no definite opinion.

Immediately at the villa of Xiririca a field of coffee, with fifteen thousand trees, belonging to Senor João Franco, gave a much more encouraging prospect for the culture of coffee.

These trees are for the most part four years old, and while larger and healthy, they were loaded heavily with fruit, presenting by far the most favorable aspect of any trees of the same age that have been seen anywhere.

Here seems also to be an exception in the growth of the coffee tree upon the level plain near the river, and although the bluff is high, so that there is never an overflow of this land, yet it is what is usually denominated as bottom land with us.

It has been alleged that in this whole region of country, the coffee plant does not bear but a few years, when it declines, or even dies.

But in the ground adjoining these trees, some antiquated trees, supposed to be fifty years old, are still standing, without any special indication of decay, and I have seen elsewhere very old trees bearing fruit.

There seems nothing in the nature of the soil, or the character of the climate throughout this region, to preclude the proper growth of coffee.

On our route to-day several fields of corn were passed, which presented a fine prospect for a yield, and especially did the crops of corn look well near the road as we approached the villa. I am not fully prepared to give an opinion as to the result, from simply seeing a vigorous stalk, before the ears are formed, but enough of the crop is now earing to afford a guarantee of a good yield, and with improved culture, corn will most assuredly turn out well.

The road leading into the villa from the lands previously visited had been reached by us before, some four miles from the villa, and now the exploration of it was continued.

The route upon which the road is located is very favorable for the construction of a good wagon-road, and by this line of communication the products of the lands belonging to the tracts of Aborbora and Braço de Gado could readily be brought to the villa of Xiririca for shipment.

There are lands belonging to the public domain in close proximity to these private lands, of which I have a very favorable report from Captain Buhlaw, formerly an officer of the engineer department in the Confederate service, and now employed by the Brazilian government to survey these lands. In connection with a portion of this territory first examined, and lying nearest the river, I expect to effect a provisional arrangement with the government of Brazil for such an extent of public land as will accommodate those families who look to me for a selection.

These private lands lie almost parallel with the course of the river, at a distance of from four to six miles from it, and their products may all reach this navigable stream either at Xiririca or Caiacauga; while those located higher up, and extending to the Ribeira de Ignape, have a direct shipment by canoes. The latter may deposit their cargoes at Xiririca for the steamboat, or make the trips entire to Ignape, as is done at present by many of the planters.

There are other private lands which may be secured, of similar quality to those described, and so situated as to communicate readily with the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest size of canoes into the lower part of the Ribeira de Ignape.

The largest portion of these lands being owned by Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge, he proposes, if it is desirable, to arrange with other parties for the transfer of these lands, so as to bring all into one compact body, which would enable our people to divide this territory more advantageously among themselves, and to exclude those who might not be desirable neighbors.

A paper has been received from this gentleman, in which the price of his land is fixed at eighty-eight cents per acre, the houses with straw covering going with the land, while those with tile roofs are to be valued separately. It is specified that the payments be made in three equal instalments, at the end of the third, fourth and fifth years from the date of the purchase, and the whole without interest.

Should any one desire to anticipate the time fixed for payment, a discount of six per cent. per annum for such years as the amount was to remain unpaid will be allowed upon receiving the payment. It is also stated that his large fazenda, containing about one square league of land, located immediately upon the banks of the Ribeira de Ignape, will be sold if it is desired. This place is known as Ponto-Grosso, and is only forty miles above the town of Ignape, with every facility of machinery and buildings that would be requisite for a large business. A notice of it will be seen under the record of the 10th inst. The price fixed for this place is ten thousand (10,000) dollars, with the same time and conditions as specified for the other lands.

There is, likewise, another place immediately upon the river some fifteen miles above this fazenda, where cattle are at present reared, and, though not in cultivation, presents an elevated regular outline with indications of fertility. This tract of land has a front on the water of perhaps three-fourths of a mile, and a depth of two miles, yet the exact measurements of this, as most of the land in this region of country, have not been as yet ascertained. If Ponto-Grosso should be sold this would likewise be disposed of, but not otherwise, as it is a stopping place in passing from Caiacauga to the above-named fazenda.

As there are no cotton-gins introduced along this river, and a considerable amount of cotton now planted, Ponto-Grosso would be a favorable location for an extensive ginning establishment, or even for a cotton factory.

SATURDAY, _January 20, 1866_.

My friends of Caiacauga having treated me throughout my sojourn here with the greatest possible kindness, Senor Miguel and his very accomplished wife, Donna Maria, walked with me to the canoe-landing this morning, to give me their best wishes upon leaving their house. The noble hospitality of these people exceeds any thing I ever expected to realize among strangers, and, apart from any interested motive, I believe it affords them a satisfaction to contribute to the enjoyment of a guest.

It being arranged that my young friend, Senor Guilherme, would accompany me, we embarked at 11 o’clock A. M. with two sturdy negro fellows to paddle us down the river; and making a pleasant voyage, we reached Ponto-Grosso at 6½ o’clock P. M.

An ample stock of provisions had been supplied by my hostess for the entire trip to Ignape, consisting of chickens, fried fish, boiled rice, excellent bread, farina, bananas, figs, and pine-apples. In addition to these, we were supplied with a kind of beefsteak, enveloped in eggs and fried, so as to afford a most palatable dish. Having partaken freely of our stores on the way, a cup of coffee was all that I cared to take upon arrival, though Senor Guilherme insisted upon having a warm supper prepared.

Previous to visiting this region of country, nothing could be learned definitely in regard to its adaptation to the growth of the staple commodities, corn, cotton, and coffee; but my observations lead to the conclusion that each of them may be produced here advantageously.