Part 17

After spending an hour at the table Mrs. Vergueiro retired, much after the style with us, and the festivities were kept up for three hours, amidst the most vociferous cheering and singing. This reminded me very much of some of the public dinners of our associations or societies, and we could scarcely realize that it was merely a collection of gentlemen at a private house.

When the scenes at the table were ended, by a toast to the Emperor, the company went to the saloon adjoining the dining-room, and engaged during the evening in various stag dances and comic plays. Even blindman’s buff was joined in by the parish priest, who was in attendance, and seemed to enjoy the sports hugely. Some of the recreations consisted in rehearsals of the pastimes of the lower order of people (called here caipira) when they have gatherings in the country, such as we would style a frolic or break-down.

WEDNESDAY, _November 15, 1865_.

A large portion of the company having spent the night under the hospitable roof of our host, they left early this morning for their homes, and we were served with an early breakfast preparatory to our renewing our travel. Arriving at the villa of Lemeira, we stopped a short time at the house of Captain Lonço Franco, who took such a fancy to his brother larador (farmer) Mr. Brown, that he presented him with a likeness of his wife. Ale, wine and brandy were produced for the company, but we found much difficulty here, as elsewhere, in procuring water to drink, from the fact that no pails or buckets for holding water are ever kept in their houses. The article ordinarily used is a sort of earthenware jug or large bottle, but this is frequently not supplied with water, and it consequently has to be sent off to be filled when water is desired.

So far as I have observed there are no wells in this country, and upon inquiring why they were not used, the statement was made that there was no need for them, as there is an abundance of fresh running water to be found everywhere. The proximity to a spring seems to be a matter of little moment, and consequently the water is not often found very cool. Indeed, ice seems to be in very little demand in the cities, as there are machines for its manufacture at several points, which are not employed, and yet this article sells in Rio de Janeiro for ten cents per pound by retail.

We proceeded to the inn at the bridge of Atibaia for dinner, and afterwards to another inn at Quilambo, where our party spent the night.

THURSDAY, _November 16, 1865_.

Mr. Snell having gone forward last night to Campinas, where he resides, was requested to advise Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral, alias Settequéda, that we would come to his house this morning for breakfast. Moving accordingly at an early hour, we rode sixteen miles, and upon entering the city, we met our friend, Senor Joaquim, with a party of other gentlemen on horseback, who came out to escort us to his house in Campinas.

It is eminently becoming that honor should be given where it belongs, and therefore, as a matter of history, I will state that General W. W. W. Wood was the object and prime cause of these demonstrations made at different points upon our route. Prior to joining him, I saw nothing of this kind of display on the part of the people, and pursued a very quiet business-like course in my associations with the inhabitants of the different sections visited. As there is nothing else to occupy my attention in passing again over the road previously travelled, it is very satisfactory to witness these manifestations in behalf of the representative of seven States.

We found every thing in complete order upon our arrival, and rooms with the neatest possible outfit for each of us. After washing and getting a cup of coffee breakfast was announced, and the ladies of the house were met in the dining-room, when I advanced and shook hands as with old friends. Senhora seemed to take quite an interest in my small acquisitions in Portuguese since my previous visit to the family, and I was encouraged to use all in my power, talking for myself and a little likewise for the General and others seated near me.

Dr. Reinhardt and Dr. Vaz, practitioners of the city, were met here, and the former coming some years ago from the United States, speaks our language fluently; while the latter uses some words and sentences of English, but slowly and imperfectly. I attempted to talk Portuguese to him while he responded in English, and we managed to communicate most matters that either desired to speak. As there were quite a number of the gentlemen of the city invited to breakfast with us, I made the acquaintance of some of the best people in the place, and renewed my acquaintance with Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa, who is not so demure as he seemed upon my former meeting with him.

He accompanied Dr. Vaz, Dr. Warne, and myself to his city residence, for the purpose of eating jaboticabas; and while I enjoyed the fruit, I was much more favorably impressed with his bearing than previously. We saw there, also, a specimen of the small stingless bee of this country, which makes its receptacle for the honey in the hollow of a tree or the crevice of a wall, and affords the most delicious article that is ever made by any of the bee class.

There was a variety of fruit trees in the garden of this gentleman, and among them a specimen of the peach; which was, however, of inferior quality, as are all seen in any part of the country.

A large company was invited to join us at dinner to-day, and the entertainment was most sumptuous; with a fine turkey in addition to a fine old ham, and other meats, and as a compliment to the dessert, a plum pudding held a conspicuous place. This last delicacy was dressed in a way that I have not been accustomed to see; loaf sugar being placed over it, and then Cognac brandy poured upon this, and set on fire by a strip of paper which accompanied the lighted candle. I confess in this matter to have shown my greenness, as I really did not understand the programme until it was explained to me; and this account of the after dinner scene may enable some other person to avoid showing their ignorance. This dish is called here by its English name, _plum pudding_; and in like manner, _roast beef_ is known by this name among the best families.

I was quite surprised when asked by the lady of the house, “Quere plum pudding?” and upon inquiry I was informed that when this article was imported the name was imported with it.

While we were yet engaged with the meats, Dr. Vaz arose, and representing our host, made a short speech of welcome to us, and closed with a sentiment embodying all by name. To show his appreciation of the compliment, the General made rather a lengthy address for a dinner table, and toasted the Emperor of Brazil and the province of São Paulo.

With a few preliminary remarks, I gave the sentiment that Settequéda and São Lorenço would long be remembered as the homesteads of our best friends. Dr. Warne premising some remarks, toasted our host and hostess.

General Wood not being well, begged to be excused, and retired to his room before the exercises were concluded, when Dr. Vaz went out to minister to him. Commendador Egydio and Senor Dom Pinto made addresses complimentary to our people, and calculated to encourage our movement to this country.

The remarks on this occasion were interpreted by Mr. Bennaton, as each speaker proceeded, and quite an awkward scene occurred from the deafness of Dom Pinto, who had not perceived that the remarks were interpreted; and when he rose to speak, afforded no opportunity for the interpreter to repeat his words; who consequently had to abandon the undertaking and leave the Dom to proceed without any prospect of being understood by our party.

After dinner I went with Dr. Reinhardt to his house and received much information as to the country and the medical profession of the city. He tells me that the physicians here realize from $5,000 to $7,000 per annum, and that the plantations of coffee around the place afford a considerable share of the business. He thinks of coming to the United States after a few years for the purpose of educating his children, having married and raised a family in Brazil.

The most attractive feature of the hospitalities of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio was the party given in the evening, at which there were present many of the elite, with several very pretty and sprightly young ladies. The daughters and wife of Dr. Vaz were introduced to me and others of our party by himself; and these fine-looking and elegantly-dressed young ladies were the stars of the evening, though there were others who were much admired by the gentlemen of our party. General Wood having recovered from his indisposition, danced with several of the ladies, and appeared the gayest among the gay. Dr. Warne also danced several rounds, and even enjoyed the intimate relations of a waltz with the younger daughter of Dr. Vaz. The older daughter had the lower part of her fine skirt torn in the dance, and in assisting her to pin it up, I made a blunder, by saying “sua vestida muito ruim.”

The idea that I wished to convey was, that her dress was in bad condition from this accident; but I learned afterwards that the true import of my words was, Your dress is very worthless. It is to be hoped, however, that she would attribute it to my ignorance, though I observed at the moment that she had rather a peculiar expression of dissatisfaction, and made no reply to my remark.

The music on this occasion was very superior; there being one band with brass instruments at the outer front door where the company were assembling, and another band which made music for the dancing when it began about 9 o’clock in the evening. At the close some pieces were performed upon the piano by a gentleman, and accompanied by a cornet-a-pistons, which received the undivided attention of the assemblage.

The refreshments were served upon waiters by the gentlemen in attendance, and the wants of every one were looked after assiduously. This is a feature of difference that will strike all as corresponding to the courtesy alluded to in regard to rendering assistance in mounting, and more remarkable in a slave country where the houses are supplied with excellent servants.

Tea, chocolate, and coffee were handed, with quite a variety of cakes and sweetmeats; while at the close of the evening, or rather the morning, for it was then 2 o’clock A. M., a concentrated chicken-soup was served in teacups. This struck me as very proper to meet the exhaustion incident to the active exercise and loss of sleep at this late hour, and yet it was new.

Though the want of a common tongue was embarrassing to all parties, the evening passed very pleasantly.

FRIDAY, _November 17, 1865_.

While there was much elegance and many conveniences connected with the large establishment in which we were quartered, we were surprised to learn that there was no privy about the place, and the only alternative was the use of chamber-pots in the rooms for all the uses of such places. The repugnance felt with American gentlemen to this proceeding is not lessened by the necessity of their situation in the midst of a city, and one of the improvements much needed in the domestic arrangements of this country is the addition of latrines to their premises. If a room was set apart for offices of this kind, it would obviate some of the embarrassments; yet a neat privy kept in good order is a very genteel appendage to an establishment; and by inviting to the regular discharge of the functions of the intestinal canal, it exercises a beneficial influence on health, and the general comfort of a family.

Upon being introduced to a lady in the house as the sister of our host, I was informed by him that she was the mother of his wife, which of course makes him the uncle of his wife. Had I not found previously that this kind of marriage takes place here very frequently, and that among the best class of people, it would have been regarded as a matter of too much delicacy to refer to in a record of this kind. In three instances, of the most intelligent and most refined people met with in this country, the lady is the niece of her husband, and I must forbear to express my convictions of the consequences that must be entailed upon posterity by this course.

It was arranged that we would leave this morning; and, in consideration of the temporary illness of the General last evening, a carriage was provided, with four horses, to convey him to Jundiahi, and Mr. Bennaton takes a seat with him.

The rest of us being ready to go in advance, moved off on horseback, escorted out to the edge of the town by Senor Joaquim Bonifacio and several of his friends. He pointed out on the way a number of houses occupied by Germans who were formerly colonists upon this place, and also their school-room filled with children, which, taken together, indicates that they are getting along prosperously in their new homes.

We stopped upon the road to-day at an inn (hospidaria) kept by one of these German families, who had collected a considerable property in a few years, and they now have a plantation with several slaves, in connection with a thriving house of entertainment for travellers. Most of those who entered business originally with some of the Fazendieros as colonists, have since attained to a moderate competency, and settled themselves upon small farms or engaged in mercantile business.

Campinas is surrounded by large and flourishing coffee plantations, and is the residence of many wealthy planters, yet I understand that there is not much trade of any kind conducted in the city. Should the projected railroad be built in a reasonable time, it will enhance the importance of this city vastly, and it will then become attractive as a location for business and as a place of residence for families. I await the result with a feeling of interest.

On our route to-day we found that three out of the number of disabled public animals had been left at different points, as it was impracticable for them to travel with the train, while the others proceeded to our place of stopping, within one mile of Jundiahi.

This inn, kept by Senor José Pinto, is a fair sample of these houses of entertainment for travellers, and though we were molested with fleas as we went up, the general provisions for our accommodation were as good as are usually found at these places. There are two young women about the house, who are daughters of the proprietor, and don’t seem to have any fear of strangers, attending promptly to all their wants. The proprietor, who is generally known as Barão (the Baron), is immensely corpulent, and locomotes as little as possible, yet he learns every thing that can be communicated by persons passing in either direction, and is regarded as the best authority for what is going on in the country.

One of the small forest hogs, called tité, that are abundant in some regions we have visited, was seen domesticated at this place. It looks very much like we might expect a cross between a hog and a goat to appear, being of a gray color, and without any tail, but with a head corresponding very much to that of the ordinary swine.

This animal rarely exceeds fifty pounds weight, and is an excellent article for the table, the flesh being delicate and tender. The woman who owned this desired to sell it to us, but as our transportation was not suited for the accommodation of life-stock, it had to be left for some other purchaser.

A well-assorted and abundant supply of eatables was sent by our hostess at Campinas to meet our wants for the day, and nothing was required at the inn.

SATURDAY, _November 18, 1865_.

Being aroused early this morning we were served with a cup of coffee by Barão, and prepared for the road. The General rode into the villa of Jundiahi in the four-horse carriage, and there dismissing the driver and equipage to return to Campinas, he mounted his mule again, feeling much reinforced for the journey.

One of the camaradas was sent back by Mr. Bennaton with money to pay for the attention given by parties on the road to the disabled animals, and with instructions to bring them forward leisurely, so as to return them to the government authorities at São Paulo.

As I did not care to remain at Jundiahi, while the General was undergoing the transfer from his four-horse carriage to the mule, I came on in advance and reached the house of Mr. D. H. Sampson at Cachoeira about 9 o’clock. My kind friend here expressed his satisfaction at my return; and when informed that the rest of the party were on the way, he proceeded to order breakfast for all.

We soon heard the sound of the horn, which General Wood had carried with him throughout the tour, giving his signals for moving or stopping, and on various other occasions as his fancy dictated.

The entire party rested at Cachoeira until the afternoon, when the General and his party proceeded to an inn called Peru, twelve miles distant; and Mr. Bennaton remained with me for the night, under the hospitable roof of friend Sampson.

SUNDAY, _November 19, 1865_.

Rising before daylight, the French cook Philipe, who has charge of Mr. Sampson’s establishment, gave us a cup of coffee with bread and butter, and we mounted our mules for a direct ride of twenty-eight miles to São Paulo. The excellent mule which had been furnished me by Mr. Gephardt for the trip was placed at my service by Mr. Sampson for the ride to the city; and I feel under the greatest obligations to these gentlemen for their disinterested kindness to me in this and in other matters.

The spirit of accommodation manifested by Mr. D. H. Sampson, with his acts of generosity to myself and others who have come from the Southern States, makes us realize that the interest he has taken in our cause is extended to us; and for myself, I shall always feel grateful to him for his substantial favors, and his courteous attentions extended to me.

In following the grade of the railway we passed the termination of the iron rail twelve miles from the city of São Paulo, and learned from a man engaged on the road that there would be an interruption of some months, from a land-slide at the Serra de Santo having stopped the transportation of iron. This serra is likely to be a very serious obstacle to the success of the road, as even when in working order the inclined plane, with four stationary engines to draw up the cars, is an inconvenient arrangement, and not by any means free from danger. The effect of these repeated land-slides must be unfavorable to our prospects of making a settlement in the interior, and it thus becomes more important to ascertain whether some other locality may not prove more advantageous.

We reached São Paulo at noon, General Wood and his party having arrived an hour previously.

After breakfast and a bath, I walked down to give a letter to Mrs. Blackford from her husband, and to inquire for letters from my wife and friends. It was a great disappointment to find no letters here, nor at the post-office; and my only hope now is, that there may be letters for me at Rio de Janeiro, on my arrival there.

During the afternoon I was called upon at the Hotel da Europa by Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo, and at the same time General Wood was visited by Senor Dom Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr.

The question of an emigration association being presented by General Wood to Dom Pinto, he said that he would confer with his friends in regard to such an organization. He made out a list of names that would probably be favorably disposed in this matter, and that would be requested to meet here to-morrow at 12 o’clock, in regard to the plan of proceeding.

It was found this afternoon that one of General Wood’s trunks, containing specimens of coffee, wood, and grass, was missing; and as it was supposed that the camarada Manoel, or the servant Fortunatus, should be held responsible for its return, the police were advised of the facts and arrested the former, committing him to jail for further investigation.

This trunk had been taken first to the quarters of Senor Street, under the impression that it contained articles belonging to him; but on finding that it was to go to the hotel, the camarada intrusted it to a negro that was not personally known to him, and nothing has been heard of it since.

MONDAY, _November 20, 1865_.

With a view to dispose of the matter referred to last in my previous record, I may state that General Wood had the camarada Manoel released from confinement this morning. He then set about investigating the locality of the negro man to whom he had given the trunk, and while we were at dinner, Manoel came in with the trunk, exciting the sympathy of all present by his manner, and the known fact of his innocence as to the miscarriage of the trunk. It seems, according to the statement, that the negro brought the trunk to the hotel, but not knowing the name of the person for whom it was intended, he remained for a time, and then, with a view to secure his fee when it was delivered, took it to his own quarters.

In compliance with the request of General Wood, I wrote out to-day for him a report of the recent tour and examination of the lands of Araraquara and Jahu, with a proposition to adopt this region as a location, if proper facilities can be afforded by the government of Brazil. He expects to submit this to the President of the province of São Paulo during an audience to-morrow, and it is supposed that this official will recommend measures for accomplishing the object in view to the Minister of Agriculture at Rio de Janeiro.

I was asked by the General to go to his room for an introduction to the gentlemen assembled there, for conference as to an association to promote emigration, and found the following persons present: Senor Dom Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr., Senor Dom Bernardo d’Avelino Gavião, Senor Dom Fidelis Nepormecino Prates, Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo, Commendador Vicente de Sonsa Queiroz, and Senor Dom Martinho da Silva Prado.

TUESDAY, _November 21, 1865_.