Part 2

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night; and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of business, while for the student comes meditation.

THURSDAY, _September 14, 1865_.

We expected to move into the city to-day; and being advised that my cans of tomatoes, peaches, and pickles, with some tobacco, which had been brought from New York, might not pass through the custom-house unless they were included in my baggage, I put all into my mess-chest. These articles had been procured with the expectation that they would be required on the voyage, and finding the vessel well supplied, very little had been used; yet I wished to retain them for use in exploring the country, where provisions might be scarce, and hence declined to accept the offer of the captain to buy them for the bark. Upon entering the custom-house with these things, and foreseeing the importance of having these matters understood by the officers in advance of their examination, I requested Mr. Hagins, who does business with Mr. Davis, to proceed with me to the custom-house and represent the facts. He gave them to understand that the articles were not for sale, but for my own consumption, and, after some difficulty, arranged the matter without any charge for duty or the imposition of any fine for violation of regulations.

We moved into the room in the third story above the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, which is rather contracted in proportions, but has the recommendation of being well ventilated, and having a water view from the windows.

The apparent ease with which my heavy mess-chest was carried up three flights of stairs surprised me. It was a good lift for two of us to get it from the bark to the small boat, and yet this African negro carried it upon his head from the custom-house and up the stairs without any inconvenience; for which service I was told that two dumps, or four cents, was considered a proper compensation.

It is a peculiarity of this city, that burdens are generally carried by the negroes upon their heads.[6] A large and heavy piece of furniture will very often be carried upon the heads of four or six negro men, who keep the step together by chanting or by tapping a bell. They usually have upon their heads a piece of cloth rolled up after the turban style, which prevents the direct contact of the hard substance that is carried. The ordinary receptacle for a number of articles to be carried is a large, flat wicker-basket, with a concavo-convex bottom, which fits upon the head; and they move along with quite a load in these baskets, giving no assistance whatever with the hands. In some instances they are seen plaiting straw, or sewing up the material in the form of a hat, while carrying these loads; which indicates a spirit of industry that was scarcely to be expected of the negro race. I am informed that the greater portion of the negroes doing this kind of business are slaves, who hire their own time, and all is for their personal benefit.

We dined at a restaurant, and our bill of fare consisted of pork cutlet, beefsteak, potted beef, fried Irish potatoes, salad, cucumbers, and coffee, with bread of excellent quality. For dessert, we had marmalade, oranges, and bananas, making, together, a most substantial dinner. The cost for both of us was one dollar and seventy-five cents, which, being eighty-seven and a half cents each, was rather more expensive living than our pecuniary resources would warrant. I had not spent any thing, however, in getting ashore, and having done more physical labor than usual, my appetite called for something extra, and it was enjoyed.

After dining, we found that night was approaching, and the gas-lights were already emitting their brilliancy upon the streets. We walked down to the open space provided with seats in front of the Circle de Commerce, upon Rua da Direita, and seated ourselves, for the purpose of observing the manners and customs of the people. I was impressed with the genteel bearing of those who resorted to this rendezvous; and quite a large number of well-dressed gentlemen were seated here, or walking about the open pavement between the seats and the buildings, who gave a favorable indication of the physical characteristics of the better class of men. A very fine equipage, with a white driver in livery, stopped near the seat we occupied, and a gentleman and lady, with their daughter, as we supposed, alighted from it, all dressed with much neatness and even elegance. They passed through the fancy confectionery store below, and ascended to the upper story of the building, where ice-creams, &c., are served in magnificent style to visitors.

It is very seldom that a Brazilian lady is seen upon the streets of Rio during the day, which is in part to avoid the scrutiny of men, and perhaps, also, to obviate the embarrassment of seeing those same men under circumstances not very becoming for observation. The heat of the sun during the day is likewise doubtless a reason why the women remain within doors, and they find the temperature of the night air more pleasant for exercise. The number of ladies from other regions of the world, that are now residing in Rio, is beginning to make some changes in the habits of the sex; as English women or French women go out upon the street whenever business or inclination calls them to take a walk or a ride in the city. The custom here has been that of great seclusion among all classes as to their women; but the more intelligent and refined Brazilians are learning that a different course is the true policy for the promotion of the true character of woman.

I had no means of knowing whether the party referred to were natives or foreigners; but their style indicated refinement and good taste. Their carriage was of the most fashionable make, with accommodations for four persons within, and a broad front seat for driver and footman. The upper part of the body was of open cane-work, and the entrance on either side wide, so as to give a light and airy appearance to the vehicle. The livery of the driver and footman was of blue cloth, with silver lace upon the collar, and a high, slick hat of enamelled leather with a band of silver. The team in this instance, as in most of the fine turnouts of the fashionables, was a pair of fine mules; and really these slick and lively animals, being of full size and well proportioned, present here a better appearance than horses.

This promenade is one of the few places of resort for those who do not go to the theatre and opera; and though there is a hotel and an ice-cream saloon here, there is no special entertainment for the numerous visitors that come and go in the course of an evening.

So far as I have been able to learn from others, balls and parties of a public character are not frequent in this city; and indeed the whole constitution of society is opposed to this kind of promiscuous assemblage of the sexes.

There are several large establishments for theatrical performances, and also opera houses, suited to the different classes of people. The Emperor considers it a matter of sufficient interest to sustain and patronize these places of recreation, and I am informed that he frequently attends in person accompanied by his family. His object is doubtless to promote what he esteems the happiness of his people, and not from any idea that they will be thus diverted, so as to prevent their minds from being directed into mischievous channels.

The pacific character of this people, and their great proneness to adhere to an existing state of things in all the departments of life, with their general admiration for the noble traits of the Emperor, affords a guarantee for the stability of this empire, independent of its constitution and laws.

FRIDAY, _September 15, 1865_.

I called this morning, with Mr. Mallory, at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, Secretary in the Naval Bureau, to whom he presented his testimonials of qualification for service in the Ordnance Department. This gentleman speaks the English language, and seems to take considerable interest in promoting his wishes. He advised him to draw up an application to the government, setting forth his former services, and what duty he desired to enter upon here, and proposed to present it with his recommendation to the Minister of State.

Upon making an inquiry as to the practicability of being employed in the Hospital Department as a surgeon, after completing my investigations in the country, he expressed a favorable opinion; and stated that it would be desirable that I should draw up a paper indicating the nature of the public service in which I had been engaged, and the position I would like to occupy here.

He proposed to take this likewise in his special charge, and to use his influence to advance my wishes. It had not been my intention to make an application for any position under the Brazilian government at this time; but since this gentleman manifests such an accommodating spirit, I may find it convenient to undertake for a time some duty connected with military hospitals, near the seat of war, and thus see something more of the country towards the south.

After closing this interview, I repaired to the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, and he accompanied me to the office of Senor Don J. C. Galvão, No. 23 Rua Dos Ciganos. This gentleman also speaks English very well, and received me with great respect.

He heard my statement of the projected move of myself and my friends to Brazil with evident interest; and exhibited to me maps of the country, with records of lands owned by the government, and also descriptions of improved farms of private parties, which were offered for sale.

The price of public lands ranges from twenty-two cents to eighty-eight cents per acre, to those making an independent purchase. To those without the means of buying land, or of supporting themselves separately, one hundred and fifty acres of land will be provided, under the regulations of the government, in one of their colonies—to be paid for at the rate of one dollar and thirty-three cents per acre, one-third at the end of two years, one-third at the end of four years, and the last third at the end of six years.

The family are to be furnished with agricultural implements free of charge, and to be allowed one dollar a day for six months for each adult, with transportation from Rio to the colony free of cost. As yet there has been no advance of funds by the government of Brazil to bring emigrants from the United States to this country; though a small proportion of the outlay for transportation of emigrants from Europe has been borne, with a view to assist those who would not otherwise have the means of getting to Brazil. There is already, in Rio, an establishment to which those without means are sent to be lodged and boarded free of expense, until they can be forwarded to a colony. In these government colonies roads are opened, houses of small size are built, and churches, schools, priests, and a director are provided; but if it is the desire of the colonists to furnish their own schools and churches, it is not here prohibited; yet, if the churches are other than those of the Roman Catholic religion, they cannot be built with a steeple or other ostensible indication of a house of worship. Mirabile dictu!

I stated to Dom Galvão that there were many people of good standing in the southern portion of the United States, who were able to provide land and the means of subsistence for themselves, and yet would find great inconvenience in affecting the transportation across the ocean, unless some systematic means of assistance could be devised by the Brazilian government. There will be also persons, doubtless, desirous of coming to Brazil, whose means are very much reduced, and yet their former associations in life would render them desirable companions to those having more resources; and if those without means could receive the assistance extended to the colonists by the government, and yet be allowed to join their friends in a settlement of their own, it would materially facilitate their location in this country.

If the Brazilian government will render the same aid to our emigrants who are without means that has been extended to her own colonists, it would find at the end of six months that all further outlay or responsibility was unnecessary; and these people would co-operate with those having resources, to build up and make useful all the industrial enterprises of the settlement.

To furnish lands at the lowest practicable rate, and construct public highways, without any duty upon importations, are at present proposed by the government of Brazil, as encouragement to emigration.

Dom Galvão proposed to represent my views upon the subject of emigration to the Minister of Agriculture, and expressed his conviction that some practicable scheme would be devised to effect our object of being associated together, under regulations that would be satisfactory to all concerned.

Mr. Davis called with me also to see Mr. Milford, Acting Consul of the United States, by whom I was courteously treated, and informed that a large body of land had been intrusted to his charge, located near the Dom Pedro II. railroad. He stated that papers were in his possession giving full particulars of its nature and resources, and that they might be seen by calling at his office, No. 28 Rua Del Alfandega.

I was then presented to Mr. James, No. 15 Rua da Direita, and had a conversation with him as to the settlement of Dr. Blue and others, near the Bay of Paranagua. He informed me that Mr. Wells, of St. Louis, had gone on a visit to that locality, and was expected to return in a few days, when all available information might be had from him. I had requested Dom Galvão to make arrangements for me to visit that region, but no further steps will be taken until I hear the report of Mr. Wells.

There are some private interests involved, which have enlisted parties as advocates of the lands in the vicinity of the Bay of Paranagua; and I doubt whether it is desirable to look at a country where those expecting to speculate in lands have already made investments with a view to sell again.

SATURDAY, _September 16, 1865_.

Learning from Mr. James that Mr. Wells had returned to the city, I accepted his offer to give me an introduction to him. He gave me the particulars of the bay, and the river extending up from it, with an account of the recent settlements near that place, conveying rather a favorable idea of the surroundings of the Bay of Paranagua; yet I found that he was not so favorably impressed as to think of making his home there.

I concluded accordingly that it would not perhaps suit as a location for me and my friends; and that the advantages of other localities would be investigated without visiting this place at present.

Having heard from several disinterested persons that the province of São Paulo combined fertility of soil and adaptation especially to the culture of coffee, with a pleasant and healthy climate, I was inclined to think very favorably of that region. Upon an examination of its outline on the map it was found that it extended sufficiently towards the north to afford all the tropical fruits, and that its southern limit would secure a mitigation of heat, without being exposed to much frost during the winter, lying between 19° 38′ and 25° 39′ south latitude.

Under these circumstances I withdrew my application for transportation to the Bay of Paranagua, and asked Dom Galvão to arrange for a visit to the province of São Paulo.

He had been down to see me, and not finding me in, had left a paper, embodying modifications of the regulations pertaining to emigrants, which are intended to carry out my views. Upon having this document, written in Portuguese, translated by Mr. Hagins, it did not seem very definite or satisfactory, and I will confer with the author in person, when we meet again on Monday at his office. Then I will get more precise information as to the points submitted in this paper, and can determine whether any practical benefit is likely to accrue from the acceptance of his propositions.

Mr. Mallory and myself were expected at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, at 11 o’clock a. m., but, failing to have the papers in readiness, we did not reach there until after 12 o’clock, when he had left, and we were fully conscious of our dereliction. As we returned, however, he hailed us from the opposite side of the street; and on speaking with him, we found that he had been to learn the cause of our failure to meet him. This made us notice the great importance of promptness and punctuality in keeping our appointments with officials. He proposed that we should call at his office on Monday at 12 o’clock, when he would go with us to see the Minister of State, and endeavor to have our applications acted upon forthwith.

Though there is no special consequence attached to the disposition that is made of mine, it is of great moment to Mr. Mallory to get a speedy and favorable response to his application.

My understanding with different parties as to matters of business, indicates that I may, in a short time, ascertain definitely something as to the lands that may be available; and learn further my future relations to this government.

SUNDAY, _September 17, 1865_.

In compliance with a previous understanding, Mr. Mallory and myself went immediately after breakfast to Captain Buhlaw’s quarters, on one of the highest hills in the city, whence he and his wife accompanied us to the museum. This visit was made to-day, as we were informed that it was open only upon Sundays.

We examined a very extensive collection in the departments of Ornithology and Herpatology, with a fair assortment of minerals, of which the specimens of native diamond engaged my special attention. There was a very interesting variety of coins of different nations, and also some specimens of paper money, among which I observed a one dollar ($1.00) greenback note, and others of smaller denomination of the United States currency. These certainly have very little claim to a place among coins, except as curiosities.

In the collection of fishes, I observed a very badly-prepared specimen of flying fish, and were it not for the great interest my friends will take in one preserved by me on the voyage across the water, it might be presented to this museum, so that the characteristics of this truly remarkable phenomenon could be appreciated.

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London, and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii[7] and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is quite costly.