Part 3

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part, large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental, in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city. The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house, with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race. The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.

The demonstrations witnessed to-day in Rio show an utter disregard for the solemnity of the Sabbath. A large body of volunteers in holiday uniform, with a band of thirty musicians, were encountered early this morning upon one of the principal streets. In the next place, quite a number of soldiers, with their guns, badges, and flags, were seen assembled in a most gorgeous church, for the celebration of high mass. This ceremony was conducted with great pomp by the priest, and a large number of dignitaries held lighted candles of most enormous proportions, forming a concourse around the altar, which again was lighted up by hundreds of candles, though it was in open day, with a clear bright sun shedding its rays on all who would enjoy the light which God has given.

As we went in search of the English church this evening, we found a large assemblage of persons in a public garden, drinking in groups at tables arranged for the purpose, while a band was entertaining the party with music, from a stand erected for their special accommodation.

Immediately adjoining this garden was a building, in which a circus was performing, and we could hear the applause and laughter, such as might be expected at a farce or comic exhibition.

The day seems to be regarded rather as a holiday for amusement, and yet many of the business houses are kept open during the Sabbath, and there is no law of the country requiring its observance as a day of rest from labor, or to be kept holy to the Lord.

A great many of the people attend mass in the forenoon of Sunday, and then join in any recreation that may be presented. It seems that the theatres and opera houses regard Sunday evening as specially suited to attract a large number of persons, and usually have their most attractive pieces on such occasions.

In returning to-night from preaching, a large assemblage of negroes was observed immediately upon the side of the street, and, upon entering the building, we found it was a church for the exclusive use of the black people. Here many were kneeling in front of the altar, while some service was held by one of their own color; and, at a side stand, there was another black personage, who furnished applicants with a small printed paper, upon the payment of two coppers of the value of four cents. Mr. Mallory said these were no doubt indulgences for some sin committed, and the trade seemed to be going on prosperously. There were no seats in this building, and those who did not kneel sat flat upon the floor, as I have observed to be the case in all the services, when they did not stand. The churches do not have seats, and perhaps there is no regular discourse delivered to the congregations in this country.

So far as I am able to infer any thing of the spirit manifested in their acts, I should regard the religion of the people in Rio as having very little of the holy unction, and the natural tendency of a State establishment is that of formality.

MONDAY, _September 18, 1865_.

Immediately after breakfast this morning we called upon Dr. Bosworth, who had been at our quarters on Saturday without seeing us. He desired to apprise us of an appointment; that Major Pedro Latão da Cunha would accompany us to-day at 12 o’clock to visit the Minister of State. Of this we had already been apprised by the gentleman in person, and at the hour specified we proceeded with him to the large public buildings where this minister receives audience.

Captain Buhlaw having also an application for public service, accompanied Mr. Mallory and myself, and was included with us in the kind offices of presentation to Conselheiro Saraiva, the Minister of State for the empire of Brazil. Next to the Emperor, he is the highest dignitary of the land, and in his absence at the seat of war, this official takes charge of matters that are intended for the special consideration of the Emperor. We were received by him with every mark of attention and consideration; and the interview terminated with an assurance that each of us would receive the appointments as desired.[8] He said, farther, that our applications were favorably considered, not so much from any demand for our services, as that the empire of Brazil wished to extend this recognition and appreciation of our motives, in coming to this country as a place of residence.

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars, which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr. Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present. It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance; but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste. There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and, though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun, I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the “vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

TUESDAY, _September 19, 1865_.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water, around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there permanently in various industrial occupations.

Receiving an invitation from Dr. Raney, the chief of the Ferry Company, to take a ride with him on one of the boats, we crossed the bay to the town of Nitherohi; and learned that this was entirely distinct from the city of Rio, being the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro, and having its own independent municipal regulations. San Domingos constitutes an adjunct to this, and is the seat of numerous factories of cigarettes, while it is a most attractive home for private families.

There are two landings, at which these boats stop, and the number of persons getting on and off, morning and evening, are almost equal to that of the New York and Brooklyn ferry boats. There is not, however, such a continuous passing during the day and night, though a single boat finds profitable employment until 12 o’clock at night.

The fee for ferriage during the day is six cents. This is doubled from dark until 9 o’clock, when it is again doubled until 10 o’clock, and from this until 12 o’clock the last is doubled, making the fare fifty cents. Thus persons who keep late hours, attending theatres, balls, or parties in the city, are taxed with extra fare to return to their homes, and it must have some effect towards inducing men to remain with their own families during the evenings.

It is an interesting fact that these boats, being similar to the double-enders of New York, should have been brought across the ocean from the United States by their own engines; and though they were in a gale, and got separated on the way, they suffered but little damage, and reached here in good condition for service. Besides the two that steamed out, there was a third brought upon the water, by a temporary rigging of sails. The whole was superintended by Dr. Raney in person, and indicates much energy and business capacity on his part. There is another boat, which was purchased in Rio, and has been remodelled so as to suit this special service, but it is not yet ready to go upon the line of the ferry company.

The daily receipts on this line of ferry boats are not usually less than four hundred dollars, which no doubt covers the wear and tear, with interest on the capital, and leaves a large net income. Yet the payments required for putting every thing in thorough order has prevented large dividends to stockholders.

The Corcovado mountain is the highest accessible point around the city, and having a road to its summit, the visitor finds there seats for his comfort, and enjoys a view of all the surroundings of the city. Upon the slope at the foot of this mountain is a country which is resorted to by the curious, and presents many elaborate works of art, mingled with the beauties of nature, to grace the last resting-place of man’s frail body.

One of the most conspicuous features of the populated portion of the city is the signal telegraph at the observatory, upon the elevated Morro do Castillo. Here, a flag pole with arms and cords, for the attachment of various signals, stands in bold relief above the busy throng of people; and when a vessel is seen to approach from the ocean, such flags are raised as indicate to all the initiated what is the character of the vessel, and from whence she comes, usually two or three hours before her arrival. Upon this hill is also located the military hospital, which has the reputation of being a remarkably well-regulated establishment, for the treatment of those connected with the public service.

The monastery is a very extensive structure located upon the Morro San Antonio, and, being far above the ordinary haunts of the population, affords the monks comparative exemption from any of the annoyances of their fellowmen.

Upon the Morro de São Bento is located the convent, for the accommodation of the Sisters of Charity, and here, I am informed, quite a large number of nuns are congregated, as a place of perpetual seclusion from the snares and temptations that are supposed to beset the sex in this sinful world.

Among the elevations of celebrity, either for their public occupation or as the residence of persons of distinction, are the Morro da Gloria, Morro do Senado, and the Morro do Livramento.

While Rome is known as the city of seven hills, this designation might also be most appropriately applied to Rio de Janeiro, as her hills are the greatest attractions of the place, affording a delightful variety of scenery. Leaving the heights we may descend to the plains, and note some of the public establishments of most interest.

In the central portion of the broad level plain, upon which the business population of Rio is located, the Quartel des Municipals Permanentes is found, with all the structures and conveniences for administering the affairs of the city.

The public offices of the ministers and officials of government of the empire are situated upon the western border of an open space, called the Praca de Acclamacão, or the Campo de Santa Anna. On the south side of this space is the neat and yet modest-looking Congress Hall of the deputies of the empire. On the north side, in connection with the densely populated portion of the city, stands the large museum, of which mention has already been made at a former date. The street running to the east of this campo has upon the opposite side a large number of stores, with several buildings, in which there are apartments for the public officials of the government.

In the middle of this grand plaza stands a large opera house, which is the great resort of the common people throughout the city.

This magnificent piece of ground, commonly called the campo, lies quite unimproved as yet; and the washerwomen of the vicinity congregate here to use the fountains of water with which it is supplied, and to spread out their clothes upon the green grass that covers its surface. It will ere long receive the attention of the authorities, and be laid out in walks and decorated with flowers and evergreens, and must become a very attractive resort for the pent-up population of this metropolital rendezvous of all the nations of earth. It is only recently that much interest has been manifested in ornamental public grounds, and the Botanic Gardens, with other more central spots of land, already show the taste of a progressive administration, in beautifying and adorning the rural loveliness of nature by the chaste hand of art.

The most elaborate improvement to be seen in the city of Rio is the exquisitely executed equestrian statue of Dom Pedro Primeira, which stands in the middle of the Praca da Constituicão. The first Emperor is represented in full military costume on horseback, and with the scroll of the constitution raised aloft in one hand, while the other grasps the reins of the bridle.

The pedestal has upon its four sides, respectively, four pairs of Indians, with animals and reptiles, representing the regions named upon the corresponding faces. This portion of the structure has inscribed upon it, likewise, the principal rivers of the empire, arranged with relation to the localities indicated; and thus affords a historic picture of the country, with its geographical features, brought into one interesting group.

The base is made of neatly-hewn granite, and comports admirably with the massive elegance of the whole device. There are two small reservoirs of water, with a “jet d’eau” at some distance from the statue, upon each side of the square; and the artificial vines and foliage, with colored flowers, look so true to nature, that persons are very prone to suppose they have grown in the water. The grounds are laid out with excellent taste, and enclosed by a neat iron fence, giving an air of completeness and uniqueness that is eminently becoming to the subject.

Notwithstanding this handsome testimonial to the first Emperor indicates that he had endeared himself to his people, so as to make them feel pride in honoring his memory, yet his policy was so contrary afterwards to the wishes of his subjects, that he was under the necessity of abdicating his throne, and left the country to end his days in Portugal.

His lineal descendant, the present Emperor, succeeded him, and entered upon the exercise of his high functions, having a regent to officiate in the performance of the responsible public duties of the empire at the outset, and subsequently administering all his business with the most enlightened regard for the interests of his people.

It must be a source of painful reflection to every Brazilian, in looking upon this statue, to think that the original could not be sustained by the people who had placed him in authority, and though, like Washington, he may live in the hearts of his countrymen, his grave rests not upon his own soil, as that of the great North American.

WEDNESDAY, _September 20, 1865_.

A communication was received quite unexpectedly, yesterday evening, from Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, inviting me to meet him this morning, at ten o’clock, at his house, number nine, Rua da Joanna.