Part 14

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

THURSDAY, _November 2, 1865_.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) which is of a gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory, we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas; and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most dreary sand-bed of nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself. I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect, repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to his head, which should be placed near a window.

I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as reported.

FRIDAY, _November 3, 1865_.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock. We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c., &c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in the afternoon, there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town, through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo, suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

SATURDAY, _November 4, 1865_.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir and excitement of the past day.

We commenced this series of thirteen years in the full enjoyment of mutual affection, yet we did not and could not know each other’s heart and devotion as we have learned them by many repeated acts of self-sacrifice on the part of each for the other. No one, without the experience of that love which exists alone between husband and wife, can realize how entirely self may be absorbed in the devotion of the soul to the welfare and enjoyment of one another. If there was a joy or a sweet allowed me in this life which could not be shared by my wife, it would detract from the gratification I would have from it; and I know too well that every happiness which can be extended to me by my true-hearted and loving wife affords an increase of happiness to her. We have shared many trials together, and have become the parents of seven children; one of whom left us for a place among the angels of heaven, at the early age of eight months, while four interesting daughters and two sons of promising parts remain to cheer us still.

How pleasant and precious is the thought of again returning to enjoy the associations of my beloved wife and my darling children. There is no sentiment of the human heart that is more elevating and refining in its tendency than the love which a husband feels for his wife, and the affection he has welling up in his breast for his children.

“In its silence and beauty, Its passion and power; Love breathed o’er the land Like the soul of a flower.”

In the heart of him who has a sincere regard for his family, love is truly as delicate and sensitive as the aroma of the sweetest flower. It is the most tender and devoted consecration of the soul to the interests and enjoyments of those cherished objects. It is the confiding sincerity and purity of faith which the affectionate husband and father realizes for those that are bound to him by the most holy and gentle ties of mutual love. It is not a hope, but a full and complete enjoyment of reciprocal attachment. The faith and trust are without a shadow of misgiving as to the return they will meet, and the soul rests in blissful consciousness of the love of wife and children.

The light beaming forth in the full glare of a noon-day sun may fail to convince me of the warmth of that brilliant orb; but the glow of delight which brightens the eye and lights up the features of my wife and my children when we meet, cannot, must not, and will not, leave the shadow of a doubt as to their affection for me. We live in the sweet realization of each other’s love, and it is accompanied by the most unselfish desire to promote the comfort and enjoyment of each other.

If I seek the good things of this life, it is that my family may share them with me. If I seek exemption from the cares and vexations of the world, it is to shield them from annoyance. If I seek preferment among my fellowmen, it is with the anxious thought that they may thus be brought into more desirable and honorable associations. If I seek social enjoyment, the most exquisite gratification is found in the interchange of cordial sentiments with my own loved ones at home. All in all, it is with the anticipation of such happiness in future days that I now seek a place of refuge from the troubles of my native land.

May God in his goodness and infinite mercy protect and sustain my wife and my children, while I am endeavoring to secure a home for them here, is the constant prayer of my heart.

I am now separated from all that is held dear in the associations of life; and no step has ever been taken heretofore which caused me so much anxiety and apprehension for the welfare of my family as leaving them in the midst of troubles and irregularities in society, such as the world has never witnessed before. But having taken all the preliminary steps which human forecast could suggest for the comfort of those near and dear to me, and with the attention of a kind friend, who would look after them and their interests with the care of a brother, I trust in the providence of a merciful God, that they may be preserved from all harm, and that we may be soon returned to each other in health, peace, and happiness.

SUNDAY, _November 5, 1865_.

This being the Sabbath, I announced my intention to make it a day of rest, and the old Colonel said he would remain with me, while the others purposed to take a ride of fourteen miles to the Tieté river. A huge bag of provisions was prepared for the expedition by our host, and a guide was expected to meet them at the town of Jahu. But notwithstanding all these preliminary arrangements, the trip was abandoned, and all remained quietly at the house of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes for the day. He is a cousin of the Colonel.

Several gentlemen came to visit us from the surrounding country, and dined with us. Among them was a Catholic priest, Senor Francisco Ferreira Garcia, the vicar of this district, and Senor Lorenço de Arruda Prado, another cousin of Colonel Joaquim.

The former had the misfortune to be thrown from his mule after bidding some of our party good-by upon the road, but was not injured. The latter appeared to be a very clever gentleman, and is said to be a successful planter. In being introduced to him by my old friend, the Colonel, I was informed of his relationship, and on his leaving, I extended the customary assistance in mounting his mule, which is regarded here as a simple act of courtesy to a gentleman who visits you. This act of attention is a part of that general politeness which is observed among the best class of Brazilians, and struck us, as it must every one not familiar with the usages of the people, in the light of a menial service that was not compatible with the relation of one gentleman to another, yet custom makes it not only proper and becoming, but almost obligatory. The party assisting usually looses the horse, holds the bridle, and steadies the stirrups while the other mounts, and the guest is expected to avail himself of this assistance without regard to the age or rank of the person tendering it, though in some instances he may demur when he thinks circumstances should preclude it.