Part 25

In this apparatus there is a huge upright wheel of fifteen feet diameter, in which a man is constantly walking, and yet not advancing; and two other men are standing upon a platform outside of the rim of the wheel so as to use their feet upon certain pegs of wood, and thus assist the rotary motion. Four different bands and wheels without number are used to communicate this motion to the gin, and all this when mules and oxen are running idle about the town. A Portuguese is the owner of this stupid contrivance.

FRIDAY, _December 29, 1865_.

Our host favored us with an early breakfast, and we set out at 8 o’clock A. M. on the road leading to Paranapanema. Passing the Rio Itapetininga we traversed campos varied with patches of matto for twenty miles, when we stopped at a wayside inn kept by Senor José Ribeiro. The configuration of the lands over which we passed was irregular, and in some places extensive gullies or ravines had resulted from the washing of the rains. Most of the soil of the campos in this region is of a reddish aspect, while the matto lands are of a dark gray color, and producing fair crops under cultivation. Corn was observed growing well, and cotton is said to yield favorably.

The Irish potato was seen in a flourishing state at one place on the road to-day, and we are informed that this vegetable grows successfully in most parts of the country.

Those who plant cotton in this section are under the necessity of taking it in the seed to the gins at Itapetininga, and we saw some being carried on pack-mules in this form, a large basket being on each side.

At our stopping place we were informed that the proposed route from Paranapanema to Xiririca was in wretched condition, and I suggested that it would still be practicable to reach the Ribeira de Ignape at Iporanga, by way of Faxina and Apiahy. This lead to a warm controversy between Mr. Bennaton and myself as to undertaking that trip under all the disadvantages presented, but it was finally concluded to continue our present course.

SATURDAY, _December 30, 1865_.

Starting at 7 o’clock this morning we passed over a beautiful campo country with a portion of fair matto land, and crossing the Rio Paranapanema we reached the town of that name at 3 o’clock P. M., making a distance of twenty-eight miles.

There were more horses and cattle seen to-day upon the green plains than upon any previous portion of our route, and this presents a fine prospect for raising stock of all kinds.

Small patches of good arable land, with a growth of trees, are scattered at long intervals throughout these extended undulating campos, and there are also trees growing along the small streams which meets all the demands for fuel or for making enclosure about the houses.

Within four miles of the town there is a large fazenda in the open land owned by Senor Francisco Antonio D’Aquiar e Castro, (son of the Marquiza de Santos,) who resides at São Paulo.

Here we saw that manure renders these lands productive, and the best specimen of cabbage seen in Brazil was growing in the garden, while other articles also looked vigorous.

There was a large number of hogs in most excellent condition enclosed in a pen, and the number of corn-cobs showed that this staple was produced plentifully in this section.

We met on the road beyond the fazenda a lot of fine hogs going to market, and asking the price it was stated to be seven dollars per head, and as they would average two hundred pounds, meat does not exceed three and a half cents per pound.

The buildings of the fazenda are commodious and substantial, with a dwelling that presents quite a neat appearance. A supply of clear water is brought from a distance by a race or ditch; and I especially observed the slight impression made upon this firm red clay soil by the passage of the rapid current of water through the yard into the lot for the hogs and cattle.

An extensive and very strong enclosure for the stock of cattle was constructed by having large upright posts placed in the ground, with a groove on each side, to receive the ends of poles, one above another, thus forming a most substantial close fence. Around this enclosure a row of trees has been planted, and protected by a railing of poles some three and a half feet from the ground; which will in a few years afford a good shade for such cattle as may be kept up. This planting of trees for shading is not often seen in any part of this country, and it is a matter of special attention in this place.

On riding into the town we met Senor Frei Ponsiano de Montaldo Capushinho, to whom we bore a letter, which being read, we were assured of his readiness to accommodate us.

He is the Catholic priest of the place, and has the best establishment we saw. I observed the facings of the windows were of native pine, which grows very large and extensively at no great distance. The church is a combination of the old building with a new structure, but all in a rude, unfinished condition.

SUNDAY, _December 31, 1865_.

Our inquiries at Paranapanema satisfy all the party that it will not be practicable to reach Xiririca with our animals; and in view of the distance to Iporanga, the prearranged plan of visiting the country upon the Ribeira de Ignape has been abandoned by my friends, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether. But as I am not prone to give up any thing desirable because of the difficulties to be encountered, I expect to proceed to Iporanga with animals and a camarada hired by Mr. Bennaton, and thence I will descend the river to Xiririca, where I hope to find Mr. Street.

In the mean time Mr. Bennaton will go with the other gentlemen to Botocatu and the region of Perecicaba, including a visit to the country around Araraquara. They will give me a report in writing of the impressions connected with the localities visited,[27] and I expect to furnish them an account of my observations, so that each party may be informed as to the entire territory examined.

My proposed route, lying between the serra and the river, will give me a very good idea of the lands on this side of the river; and my investigations may be extended afterwards to the other side. The climate below Xiririca is said to be very unfavorable from the rains and fogs which prevail; but above that line the atmosphere is reported to be free from humidity and to be healthy; while the lands are represented as being fertile and adapted to all variety of products grown in this country.

The temperature here to-day is remarkably cool for this latitude, the thermometer being this evening 62° Fahrenheit; and there is a considerable breeze, with a slight drizzle of rain, which is said to be very common during this season. The town and country are however represented as healthy, and there is no physician residing in the municipality or district. Here, as elsewhere, the glands of the neck among the women are enlarged very much.

There is quite an assemblage of people here to join in the festivities of New Year’s Eve, and extensive preparations for a grand bonfire and illumination, with a display of fire-works on the fantastic order. A square pen of wood has been built in the open plaza to the height of fifteen (15) feet, with a collection of small sticks arranged on top for ignition, all of which is expected to burn to the ground in the course of the evening or night. The illumination at the front of the church is made by cups of the peel of a half orange, having oil and a taper, all arranged into the shape of a cross, but they do not give much brilliancy, and this display is rather a failure.

The rockets are of great variety; some giving reports like a musket, others discharging several balls of different hues, and again a few having a reversed action, by which a blazing mass is sent down amidst the men, women, and children, or dividing into numerous streams of fire, which dash hither and thither in all directions. The revolving fire-works were decidedly successful at the close.

A few brass instruments and a violin in the hands of genteel Germans afforded very good music.

NEW YEAR’S DAY, 1866.

This morning is clear and beautiful, with the thermometer at 64° degrees Fahrenheit, having risen two degrees since last night. Nature seems to be all in smiles to welcome the return of a new year. Oh, that my heart could feel in unison with this bright and sunny morning!

But while all around is joyous, all within is sadness. The old year of 1865 has come to a close, and the events which have transpired shroud the retrospect with gloom and sadness. Horrible in their reality, and almost maddening to the thought, I would gladly if it were in my power cease to think of what is past. Could the fruitless martyrdom of my three noble brothers be forgotten, the sad fate of many who are left behind cannot be torn from my consciousness and consigned to oblivion. The fact that my own wife and children have been deprived of a house and home by the ruthless hand of the hostile incendiary, stares me constantly in the face as a terrible reality. I cannot but feel very anxious for the present condition and the future well-being of those near and dear to me.

Four months entire have now elapsed since any intelligence has reached me from them or other friends, and the disturbed state of society around them causes me much concern.

My heart feels a weight and depression not in keeping with the advent of a new year; but, flying from the dark abyss of misery which reflection brings to view, let me occupy my thoughts with the persons and things around me.

The sound of music awoke us at early dawn, and several pieces were performed to welcome the coming of another year. Upon going out, we found quite a transformation in the plaza, by the planting of forty-two palm trees (species of palmetto) during the night, making an avenue from the front of the church. They are not expected to grow, but are merely placed here as a part of the festivities of the occasion, to be continued to-day.

The companions of my voyage thus far have now left me to return to Itapetininga, from which point they will proceed to Botocatu. Two mules were brought here by Mr. Bennaton, though it was known that no further provision was to be made for me. This purchase, at forty-seven and a half ($47.50) dollars for a saddle-mule, and thirty-five ($35) dollars for a pack-mule, is considerably below the prices at the capital, but above the average valuation in this region.

The outfit for three men and three attendants now consists of eighteen animals.

I remain here for the camarada, Senor Pedro Crano D’Oliveiro, to come with his mules, and proceed with me through the woods to Iporanga. All these men, though performing menial service, expect a certain deference to be shown them; and it is customary to give them the title of respect implied by Senhor on all occasions. In fact, no freeman, white or black, is ever addressed here without this, but it is usual to prefix it to the first part of the name, even with persons of distinction, instead of using the surname or family name as is done with us, in prefixing the word Mister through respect.

My old friend, the Catholic priest, who is vicar of this district, has given me a letter to a friend in Xiririca, and has likewise procured another from a gentleman here to a party in Iporanga, so that I will get assistance in both places, should I fail to meet Senor Street.

The priest belongs to the order of Friars, and signs himself accordingly Frei, in the prefix to his name. He has gone out to attend to his duties at the church, leaving us at his house without seeming to expect that any of us took any interest in attending the services. The long flowing gown, with a monk’s hood hanging on the shoulders, is worn habitually, as indeed the clerical attire is the common dress of priests everywhere in this country; but when he goes to the church, the ceremonial vestments are taken by his page to be used in the services.

I went to the church to-day for the purpose of witnessing the proceedings of the festa by the vicar; and with the assistance of a number of persons who were attired for the occasion, he went through various incomprehensible manœuvres, that served to attract and interest the large concourse of people. At the close of these performances, rockets and other sonorous fire-works were exploded most profusely.

In the afternoon there was a grand procession of these demonstrative people, in honor of our Lady of Conception, (Nossa Senhora de Conceicão.)

The figure of a female seated on a platform, that rested on a sort of hand-barrow, was carried upon the shoulders of four men, and another figure, representing some of the saints, supported in like manner, accompanied it, while a large rich awning was hoisted upon the ends of six poles in the hands of as many men, under which the old vicar and a brother priest moved forward with certain symbols, among which was a silver cross encircled by a halo of brightness. This other priest is also a friar, and gives his name in full as Frei José de Loro, Director de Tijuco Preto, Ministerio Apostolico Capuchinho. He is from Italy, as is also the old vicar, the former being in this country only eight months, while the latter has been here twenty years, and says he has almost forgotten his native tongue.

Formed into line, with music in full blast, they marched in much apparent solemnity with their heads bowed, throughout the principal streets of the town, accompanied by most of the men, women and children that were present. On the return of the procession, the explosion of fire-works was deafening, and had an appearance in mid-heaven like the bursting of bombshells, when a hot engagement of artillery is progressing.

An address was subsequently made in the church by the vicar, but was not adapted to my limited comprehension of the language.

The proportion of men present was small, and for the most part scrawny specimens, with very shabby dress, having in many instances a sort of cloak (ponché) which covers all other deficiencies of dress. The absence of men having better physique is attributable to their apprehension of being recruited for the army, which induces them to forego the indulgence of public festivities.

The number of women in attendance was very large, and with few exceptions of mixed blood, either of the Indian or negro. Some of them were comely in form and neatly dressed, but far the greater number were downright ugly. Here, more even than at other places, the old and the young have the glands of the neck enlarged, constituting goitre, or, as called here, “papo.” This affection is ascribed to various causes; humidity of the atmosphere, bad diet, or deficiency of nutritious food, sleeping in exposed situations, combined with the water of the serras, are the usual concomitants.

In the vicinity of the Alps, it is known to prevail extensively, and is attributed by some writers to the use of snow-water. But here we have no snow-water, while there exists a geological formation in these serras which corresponds to that mountainous region; and it is highly probable that there exists some peculiar mineralogical principle in the water coming from these elevations which produces this result.

The better class of people are rarely seen with it, yet even those with all the comforts of life are not entirely exempt when living in these situations adjacent to a serra.

The old vicar has a woman with several children in the house with him, who is housekeeper and without a husband; while the youngest of the children indicates clearly its paternity.

Those acquainted with the habits of some of the priesthood in Brazil will not regard this allusion as indelicate, or involving any thing unbecoming.

Though there were servants about the house, the vicar insisted upon doing most that was required for us.

TUESDAY, _January 2, 1866_.

Soon after I arose this morning, my old camarada, Senor Pedro, came in to make the announcement that all was ready for the anticipated voyage, and attributed his failure to go on yesterday to the straying of a mule. But my inference is, that he could not bear the idea of leaving this festa and grand procession, and availed himself of a subterfuge, to quiet my impatience under the delay beyond his time appointed for starting.

I was supplied with a cup of coffee, and gave my old friend, the vicar, a heartfelt expression of my thanks for his kindness; when he gave me his best wishes for a prosperous voyage, and embraced me after the Brazilian manner,[28] with a warmth which made me feel that I was leaving a real friend.

In repairing to the house of Senor Pedro, he provided some farina, stew of beef, and big hominy, with bananas, for my breakfast, which were despatched with the aid of a spoon, as knives and forks seemed to be no part of his household furniture. This finished, I found that all the family were preparing to set out with us, as we were to go that day to a place owned by this man some twenty miles distant in the country. The horses for the women were brought through the house and taken into the back yard for them to mount. They soon sallied forth all astride, with their skirts so arranged as to cover their nether extremities, and, having drawers with straps under their feet, they were in regular trim for the expedition.

The old woman and three grown daughters were all mounted after this style, and seemed to use their stirrups and manage their horses as if they had been used to this mode of travelling. Their saddles are somewhat different from those used by the men, having a quilted seat, which serves as a cushion to protect them in riding astride.

Upon going out of town, we fell in with another party of women who had a more genteel appearance, and were seated in the ordinary way upon side-saddles,—one of them being especially well provided with horse and equipments. She was a young lady, very tidily dressed, and rather the best-looking woman seen in this section. One of the women of this party was the wife of a son of my old camarada, and her husband was carrying their only child before him on his mule.

The third member of this party was the mother of the other two women, but they are all of a very different stamp from the family to which they have become connected by marriage, and I could not but think they viewed our party of women astride of their horses as presenting a disgusting aspect. One of the daughters of my escort had a young child, and carried it most of the way in her arms, while her mother, an old woman of fifty years, carried it the rest of the time. These women rode the entire twenty miles astride without dismounting, and did not show any particular fatigue on arrival.

Within half a mile of Paranapanema we entered the forest, and, for three miles, the soil was red, and would certainty produce a fair yield of any thing that might be cultivated.

This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country, and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use, but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good appearance.

Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber, and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude wilderness.

After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for thirty bushels to the acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.

The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless that the soil is better than on the level land.

There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines, and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.

The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts of life, or very little advance in civilized life.

If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating, the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.

I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to realize by actual participation.

The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than covers one of these hogs.

The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers. What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The people fare worse than the brutes.

My old camarada having me now in his power, informed me that it would be necessary to take one more horse than was expected in his arrangement with Mr. Bennaton, and that instead of going for ten dollars as he had agreed, that he must have seventeen dollars and fifty cents. Upon my objecting he then named fifteen dollars, saying that he would have to take provisions for us and the animals; and, under all the circumstances, I acceded to this proposition, as it is the exact amount supplied by Mr. Bennaton for expenses.

WEDNESDAY, _January 3, 1866_.