Part 16

We halted at a small shop upon our route to-day, where oranges were sold at the rate of four for a cent; and all of us having a relish for this fruit, concluded we never could satisfy our taste more cheaply, so we turned to and ate the whole stock in trade. One gentleman was reported to have eaten fourteen oranges, but I thought that a full complement was received with half of that number, and it puzzled me to know how any one eat more than I did in the same length of time.

A large concourse of persons on horseback were met to-day, males and females, dressed out in their best clothes. Some of them were provided with musical instruments, and there was a train of pack-mules, upon one of which there were two immense boxes, and sundry smaller trunks upon the others. We understood that it was a movement to celebrate the feast of the Holy Ghost at the Freguezia de Jahu, which is done yearly by the Catholics here.

Returning by a different route from that of our trip in going up, we encountered extensive campos, and soil generally of inferior quality, until we reached the Serra de Brotas, upon which the land, as stated previously, is very good, and lies favorably.

We reached the residence of Senor Domingos José Carneiro (son-in-law of the old Colonel) this afternoon at 5 o’clock, when we were kindly received by him and his wife, and found every thing arranged for the comfort of the entire party.

A letter was received this afternoon from our faithful friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço, responding in the most feeling terms to a communication made to him by our entire party in leaving his house. As the two letters may be now inserted together, and may give those who read these pages an idea of the relations subsisting with this noble-souled Brazilian, I will give a translation of his in connection with that sent by us.

ARARAQUARA, _November 2, 1865_.

The following-named persons, recently from the United States of America, and their companions, have received such favors at your house and such assistance from you in the examination of the lands of Araraquara, that we desire to leave with you an expression of our great obligations and our sincere thanks for your kindness.

Having visited this section in search of a future home for our families, we have found you a friend that makes all of us desire to be your neighbor, and to become residents of your section of this country.

We go to look at other lands, and to ascertain the resources of other places, feeling that no people can extend to us a more cordial and generous hospitality than we have received here from you.

With the most heartfelt gratification for your reception and treatment during our sojourn with your family, please to accept our best wishes for the happiness of yourself and those composing your household.

W. W. W. WOOD, J. MCF. GASTON, [Names of all others composing the party.]

TO ILLM. SENOR LENENTI CORONAL JOAQUIM LORENÇO CORREA.

JAHU, _November 8, 1865_.

GENERAL W. W. W. WOOD, DOM GASTON, and other gentlemen, companions of the voyage:

With undivided pleasure I received your letter of the second of the current month, in which with great magnanimity you manifest your sentiments of gratitude for the little or no service which I rendered you during your brief stay in the woods of Araraquara.

In returning to your firesides, which in a short time you intend to abandon, choosing for your new home and that of your children the land of the Holy Cross, where it was my fortune to be born, say to your countrymen that in this land there are generous hearts that sympathize much with the southern inhabitants of the United States of North America.

Coming to dwell in these lands, I hope you may be happy, promoting the happiness of yourselves, and the future happiness of your children. And you may be sure of this, that here you will always find one friend, faithful and sincere.

JOAQUIM LORENÇO CORREA.

My personal relations to this gentleman inspired a sort of parental regard for him, which makes me cherish this kind memento more perhaps than others of the company, and I have therefore preserved the original, as a souvenir of his friendship and generosity. We all desired to have a likeness of our good friend, by which we might be constantly reminded of that genial expression which springs from his pure heart; but the photographists in this section are very poorly provided with materials, and could not take the impression.

The high appreciation which all of us have for the character of Senor Joaquim Lorenço is only in keeping with the estimate in which he is held by all with whom we have conversed, in the vicinity of Araraquara; and he is, with one accord, regarded as the leading spirit of all that country. His title of Lieutenant-Colonel is by virtue of his position as commandant of the national guard of the district, and from his admirable management for our tour, I should expect him to conduct a campaign very successfully. All was done quietly by him, and in his discipline upon his premises no loud word or confusion ever occurred, but every thing progressed with great regularity.

FRIDAY, _November 10, 1865_.

Leaving the house of our kind host, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, we descended the Serra de Brotas by a most precipitous route, differing from that of our ascent, which was very steep, in being likewise very rugged and narrow. It was not desirable to remain upon our mules in making this passage down a steep, irregular, and rocky road, so that all but one of the party dismounted, and lead our animals. The father of our host, Senor José Venancio Carneiro, having spent the night with us, they both accompanied us this morning, and upon arriving at the villa of Brotas we found that the elder gentleman had arranged for us to take refreshments at his house, where we had dined in passing through. The table was provided with very fine canned peaches and other fruits, while wine and coffee were also served, thus tempting us to eat, though we had so recently taken a hearty breakfast where we spent the night.

How we parted finally with our true-hearted friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço Correa, which was quite a touching scene, in the manifestation of deep feeling with him and with all of us.

In company with Senor Domingos we proceeded sixteen miles, for the most part through a dreary campo, to the fazenda of Senor Francisco Antonio Macede, who is a son-in-law of Senor José Venancio, and by whom we were joined at this place in the course of the evening after our arrival.

Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.

Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of domestic manufacture, which was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were rendered, as at this place.

The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day, and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome, the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and beast.

A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges, upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock, and all had to rally their appetites again.

SATURDAY, _November 11, 1865_.

After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law, Senor José Venancio.

This old gentleman seems determined to make amends for his absence from home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his own or other parties.

My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of, but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery of the campo.

We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.

Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas, that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable fall of rain.

We stopped at the house of Dr. J. H. Gattiker, a Swiss physician, and in his absence were courteously received and entertained by his dignified and yet affable lady.

SUNDAY, _November 12, 1865_.

With our wants of every kind provided for in the best style, the beds were especially neat, having damask covers lined with silk, and the pillow-cases trimmed with fringe of the most tasteful pattern. The towels were also of fine material, and each end trimmed with fringe. Before making our toilet, coffee was served at our rooms in those beautiful china cups which are found generally in the houses of the better class of people. When I left my room, the Doctor was found in the parlor waiting to receive us; and, knowing that any thing from the United States, just now, would interest us, he went out and procured some copies of the Presbyterian newspaper, from the house of the Rev. Mr. Snyder, which were particularly appropriate for the day. I called, subsequently, and saw Mrs. Snyder; but, not finding Mr. Snyder at home, her tender of hospitality was declined for the present time.

General Wood and the rest of the party arrived in time to join us at a very late breakfast, and it was really a feast of fat things, in great variety and much good taste. I was seated at one end of the table, with the lady of the house upon my left hand, and I made such use of my limited stock of Portuguese as was necessary in communicating with her.

Some of our companions proposed to go to Ybicaba to-day, while the General and myself, with Mr. Snell, as interpreter, concluded to remain quietly here; and I wrote a lengthy communication for my friends, and also a letter to my wife, as appropriate Sunday-work.

All of us dined together; and the most bountiful supply was arranged in the greatest elegance upon the extended table, with a huge, fat turkey dressed in the best style, from the carving of which the General relieved our hostess.

MONDAY, _November 13, 1865_.

Our kind hostess furnished us with a cup of most excellent chocolate, before breakfast, this morning, though coffee had already been served prior to leaving our rooms. The General said that all his needs were supplied by this nutritious drink, and becoming very impatient at the delay of breakfast, proposed to go without waiting for it. But Dr. Gattiker would not hear of our going without breakfast; and, indeed, after breakfast, we had great difficulty in getting off from him, as he insisted we must spend the day at his house. I was favored with photographs of the Doctor and his wife, which will be treasured up in the collection of my friends in Brazil—she being a native of the country.

Upon starting, it was found that my mule was suffering from the loss of a shoe, and it became necessary for me to stop on the road, that he might have it replaced. General Wood and Mr. Snell, in the mean time, adopted my suggestion, and proceeded to Ybicaba. As the camaradas were behind, I awaited their arrival, and, taking one of their mules, he remained to bring mine when it was shod.

I made a fruitless attempt to advance upon this lazy and perverse mule, but at length, in despair, stopped upon the roadside, and dismounted to await the arrival of my own. Here, in the wild forest, it occurred to me that a tiger or other wild beast might attack me, but I congratulated myself that I could get out of the way faster on foot than upon this stupid animal, and it might be that the carnivorous propensity of the wild occupant of the woods would be satisfied with the tough carcass of the old mule, which I would leave to his tender mercies.

I thought we had started with some of the most shabby animals that the province could afford, but some of those which were left at Ybicaba by General Wood’s party were even worse than the two left by us. These animals were such as had been in use for the military service, and were turned out upon such pasturage as the lands around the city of São Paulo would furnish, which, from notice under a former date, may be inferred would not have the effect of improving their flesh or strength. Of such as the President had, gave he unto us; and we were thankful for the small service they rendered in getting us to places where we were generously supplied by our friends with better animals.

A few of the public animals were retained for the trip by General Wood’s party, and we kept two mules in service that were improved by the regular feeding, with comparatively light work under our pack-saddle.

As we are booked to remain as the guests of Senor Vergueiro to-morrow, it is expected that some of the camaradas will proceed with this drove of emaciated horses and mules in advance, so as to allow them to move leisurely. Some of them are scarcely able to drag their bare bones along, and they will accordingly go in light-moving order, without incumbrance of any sort.

The entire number of horses and mules belonging to both parties amounts to thirty-three, and there are about one-half the number belonging to parties at different points on the road, who had furnished them for the expedition, while perhaps there are a half dozen of the public animals in service, leaving ten of the nondescripts going loose.

TUESDAY, _November 14, 1865_.

The following items are furnished by Senor José Vergueiro as the standard valuation of articles in this section:

HORSES. PRICES. Tamed and broken $25.00 to $40.00 Untamed 20.00 to 25.00 Mares 4.00 to 6.00 Stallions same as castrated. Jacks 50.00 to 100.00

MULES. PRICES. Broken for pack-mules $30.00 to $35.00 Riding 40.00 to 50.00 Untamed, by the lot 12.50 to 15.00 Pack-saddles 10.00 Ox-hides, (sun-dried) 1.00 to 2.50 Oxen for work, (pair) 30.00 to 40.00

HOGS. PRICES. For fattening, (each) $4.00 to $5.00 Fattened (neat) per pound 4½ to 5 cents. Breeders, (each) $3.00 to $4.00 Pigs, (according to stock) 1.00 to 7.00 Sheep, (not much grown) 75 to 1.00 Goats 1.00 to 1.50 Cows, (milch, by lot) 7.00 to 7.50 Cows, (milking, single) 12.50 to 15.00 Calves 2.50 Bulls, (according to breed) 30.00 to 50.00 Bullocks, (not fattened) 10.00 to 11.00 Bullocks, (fattened) 12.50 to 20.00

NEGROES. PRICES. Men, women and children together $500.00 to $750.00 Men separately 900.00 to 1000.00 Hire of men and women from Minas 40.00 to 60.00

The above with feed, clothing and medical attention by year.

Corn, (now 50 cents to 75 cents,) average per bushel 25 Beans, (now $3.00 to $5.00,) average per bush. 75 to 1.00 Rice, (now $4.00 to $5.00,) „ „ „ 75 to 1.25 Cotton in seed, per hundred pounds 3.75 to 4.00 Coffee, (retail in country,) per pound 8 to 12 Leather, per side 1.50 to 2.50 [20]Hats, (home-made,) of fur, $2.00 to $2.50; of wool, $1.00 to $1.50.

Dom João Guilheoma D’Aguier Whitaker, Juiz de Direita, da Comarca de São João de Rio Claro, informs us that he has been directed by his family connection and friends to put at the service of our people, when they may arrive at Santos, a sufficient number of mules to transport them and their effects.

Senor Vergueiro has furnished General Wood with thirty-six different varieties of wood, which are to be found in the district of Lemaire, and suited to different domestic purposes, of which the names are given below.

Arindiaba, (very durable.) Cabrinba, (for building.) Yssé, (for building.) Saguaragy, (for building.) Sucupyra, (for building.) Tayúba, (for building.) Assaçafrá, (for building.) Canella preta, (for building.) Jacoranda, (rose wood.) Cavyúna, (for building.) Gualrynoyra, (for building.) Jataby, (for building.) Cajarâna, (for building.) Araribá, (for fencing.) Guaranta, (splits well for rails.) Peroba, (fine canoes.) Peroba-Merim, (for building.) Guarabytá, (for building.) Cedro, (door and window shutters.) Jiquitiba, (for building.) Timbo, (for building.) Gleo, (valuable fruit.) Guatambu, (for fencing.) Açoita-Carallos, (for building.) Caxétas, (for building.) Vatinga, (for building.) Alecryser, (for building.) Chimbé, (for fencing.) Batáia, (canoes.) Maria Preta, (for building.) Figueira, (for building.) Jugá, (for building.) Guabiroba, (for building.) Guarahyúba, (for fencing.) Pitanga, (for fencing.) Jaboticaba, (delicious fruit.)

These specimens of wood represent the useful growths of timber in this district of the province of São Paulo, and there are likewise a great number of palm trees, different qualities of cane, (bamboo and taqueira,) with a variety of vines, of which the sipo is especially valuable for cordage and other uses.

The guaranta is the best material for fencing, as it splits readily and is very durable. The hardness of most of the wood in this country is the most serious obstacle to using it in the form of plank.

Specimens of the following-named grasses have likewise been furnished to General Wood:

Gramminha. Gramminha fina. Pé de galinha. Passuam. Cassium Gerdura. Gramma Naturæ. Gramma larga. Cassium Milham.* Cassium Angelinha.* Cassium de Angola.*

Those marked thus * are suitable for cutting and curing as hay, and we find this fazendeiro has a considerable amount dried and stored away for use as may be required.

As there is no frost here to destroy the grass, and animals can run upon the pastures throughout the year, very few persons think it necessary to cure hay, yet these high grasses are cut and fed to milch cows, or to horses that are not put out to graze, and thus they are very useful.

During the cooler months of winter, and when there is a protracted drought in the warm season, none of the grasses grow so luxuriantly, and the grazing is of course much impaired, so that it is very convenient to lay up a supply of hay, as is done at this place during the season of full development, and retain it to meet emergencies.

This region of country is more particularly adapted to agricultural operations, and makes a better return under cultivation than to be used for pasturage, yet grass is produced of the best quality when it is allowed to grow naturally or the land is planted artificially with either the seed or the radicals of the different grasses. One of the varieties of cassium is propagated entirely by transplanting the roots, from which it extends.

Combining a notice of the habits and customs of the people with a record of their material resources, it is my privilege to note the entertainment given us to-day by our host. Quite a number of his friends were invited to join us at dinner, and the preparations for the feast were most elaborate. There were twenty-six persons seated at the table, including the lady of the house, whose quiet dignity gave a grace to the elegant style in which all was arranged. Our party were seated in juxtaposition to each other, General Wood being in the middle, and having Dr. Warne on his left hand and myself on his right. On the opposite side to us was seated Mr. Henry Whitaker, who was to act as interpreter. From this portion of the table there extended at right angles two wings, at which the other guests were seated, Senor Vergueiro being at the end of one of the wings and Dom Whitaker, Juiz Direita, at the end of the other. Senhora was seated at one of the angles adjoining the portion of the table occupied by our party, and thus as will be perceived entirely separated from her husband.

A description of the numerous dishes, and the many varieties of liquors and wines, is out of my power, as it was far more extensive than we are accustomed to see at a dining.

Early in the progress of the substantial part of the dinner, Senor Vergueiro arose and addressed those present as to his object in thus assembling his fellow-citizens with us around his table, closing with a sentiment complimentary to all our party, and mentioning by name General Wood and myself. To this the General responded at considerable length, closing with a toast to our host and hostess, when I made some remarks and toasted the authorities of Brazil, and the counties of Rio Claro and Lemeire; Dr. Warne responded to a sentiment from Judge Whitaker, and gave a toast, and, in like manner, Mr. Kernan being called out, made a few remarks and gave a toast.

All the remarks in either language were interpreted by Mr. Whitaker as the speakers proceeded, each making a pause between sentences, and thus all was mutually understood, giving the whole proceedings a fine effect.

A large proportion of the Brazilian guests joined in the expression of sentiments welcoming our people to this province, and manifesting much interest in the result.