Part 11

In consideration of this service, the landowner pays to the contractor twenty cents for each coffee tree which is growing and ready to yield; and if any cash is advanced to him prior to the end of the fourth year, he gives guarantees for the fulfilment of his stipulation, and pays twelve per cent. per annum interest upon the money thus received. The contractor supplies himself with tools, and his hands with provisions, or other articles needed, so that the landowner is not responsible in any way for them.

During the first two years, the contractor may plant whatever crop he chooses between the rows of the coffee trees, but the owner has the right to dictate what shall be planted in the subsequent two years; and as the growth of the plants may be impaired by the presence of high corn or other things calculated to shade them, these may be forbidden.

Should the coffee commence yielding before the expiration of the four years, the contractor obligates himself to gather the crop, and turn over one-half of it to the owner of the land.

The advantage to the contractor consists in having the use of land for four years, in consideration of clearing it, and the twenty cents per tree is very full pay for the labor and attention bestowed upon the coffee plants.

On the other hand, the owner, having a large amount of land without sufficient force to do all this heavy work, gets his land put in good order for cultivation, and has the coffee trees upon it bearing fruit. Considering that four hundred and sixteen (416) trees grow upon one acre of ground, his improved land costs him eighty-three dollars ($83) per acre; and the question arises, could not day-laborers have been employed throughout this period for the same outlay of money, who would have given the owner the annual return from the cultivation of the lands, in addition to the final growth of the coffee trees?

I learn that one man can clear and plant in the course of a year ten acres of land, and the same man can of course cultivate it in a crop of provisions during subsequent years. This man can be hired to work, and find himself, certainly at one dollar a day for the working days of the year, which may be put down at three hundred dollars, which for four years will be twelve hundred dollars.

For this amount, I have had my annual provisions from the land, and my coffee trees are now ready to yield me an annual crop. If this sum now is reduced by subtracting the value of the crop for each of the three last years, at the rate of thirty dollars per acre for each year, making nine hundred dollars, it leaves but three hundred dollars of outlay for my coffee trees; or thirty dollars per acre, instead of the eighty-three dollars per acre paid out by the system of contract.

In this point of view, it is evident that our friend Dom Queiroz and others who make this arrangement with the negro contractors are paying very exorbitant rates of hire. I have purposely placed the rate of day-labor far above the rate usually paid in this country; and it is not usual to pay a caipira or Portuguese more than five dollars a month, and furnish him lodging and provisions, which in cash outlay will not exceed one-half of the sum specified in my calculations.

It behooves our people to consider all these things in making their arrangements, and not fall into any plan of operations because others are doing it.

In estimating the increased value of lands, with a full stand of coffee trees bearing fruit, the calculation may with more propriety be based upon the estimate of twenty cents per tree, because you receive an immediate return for the investment, of from three to six pounds of coffee per tree, annually, which will be worth, free of all expense, twenty cents the first year for each tree, and thus repay the entire outlay.

One of the incidents of travel in this country has been encountered to-night, by finding a bicho or chigre embedded in one of my toes. A little darkey was called to identify the parasite; and a “tropeiro” extracted it, with the nidus complete, making a very nice operation.

TUESDAY, _October 17, 1865_.

Leaving our pleasant associations at Nova Fazenda this morning, we came in company with Dom Queiroz and Captain Feliciana to the residence of Senor João Franco da Morars. He had a most sumptuous breakfast in readiness for us, which was enjoyed very much after our ride of six miles across the country.

Setting out after 10 o’clock, we rode over the land which this gentleman proposes to sell. The extensive tract of Babylonia is connected at one point with the land upon which he resides. The former consists of ten thousand and two hundred (10,200) acres, and the latter of three thousand (3,000) acres, making together thirteen thousand two hundred (13,200) acres of land.

The body of land known as Babylonia consists of the possessions of a number of persons, as follows:

João Franco da Morars, 3,540 acres; José da Lacerda Guimarans, 3,600 acres; Aranjo Lima, 420 acres; José Goncalves, 840 acres; José Estivão, 780 acres; Prudenta, 540 acres; José Ignacio, 252 acres; Bento Ribeiro, 252 acres; and the residence of João Franco da Morars, 3,000 acres.

Price of lands in Babylonia, $4.50 per acre.

Price of residence of Senor João, $5.00 per acre.

Between the last-named and the rest of the land there intervenes partially a portion of another fazenda, called Quilombo, which it is thought can be had upon similar terms as the above.

The stream Ribeirão dos Negros forms the boundary for a short distance upon the north of the first-named tract, and then penetrates the lands of Babylonia; supplying water convenient to other portions, and having several considerable falls which might be made available for any extent of machinery.

The surface of the land is irregular, and in some parts mountainous, inclining from either side towards the water, which traverses the entire extent of the lands. Upon the tract enumerated as that of José Goncalves there is an elevated plateau of perhaps one hundred acres which lies favorably, and has a stream of water running across it through an artificial channel. By means of this small stream a monjolo is worked at two different places; and the soil is of good quality, while the site for building is very advantageous. Upon a portion of this plateau, twenty thousand (20,000) coffee plants are growing from the seed, which are two years old and look thriving, but are still small. When the seed are planted in the places where the tree is to grow, it is thought to have some advantages; yet the almost universal custom is to transplant from a nursery the rundas or young sprouts when they have remained for one year, and thus the stand is perhaps rendered more certain and uniform.

If several families should combine in purchasing these lands, a hamlet or village might be formed upon the plateau spoken of, and each have sufficient ground in connection with their dwellings to raise vegetables and necessary supplies. Those employed as laborers could be located upon their respective tracts of land, and thus be separated from their dwellings. In this way children might have a common school, and many arrangements for the common benefit of the families could be made convenient to this site, while the water could be carried to any point it might be desired. The soil upon most of the hillsides is of good quality and free from frost, so as to be suitable for planting coffee.

Tobacco was seen growing upon this place, as a second crop from the stalks which had been previously cut off, and though the result did not appear favorable, it would repay the trouble of gathering. This region produces tobacco very satisfactorily; and the neighboring section of Belem (a contraction of Bethlehem) is regarded as particularly well suited for the culture of this plant. The mode of preparing the tobacco for market, here and elsewhere in the country, is to work it into a kind of rope, with the hands, that is, coiled round a piece of wood two and a half or three feet long, so that it may be conveniently shipped upon the pack-mules. It presents a very dark, oily aspect, as if some foreign ingredient were used in its preparation, and yet this is said to be simply the exudation of the juice, which results from the manipulation. This tobacco is strong, but not regarded as equal in quality to that manufactured in Virginia; and my friends who used tobacco attributed this inferiority to the want of proper treatment in this Brazilian twist.

In other provinces of Brazil, more northward, I am informed that the leaf-tobacco is packed in bales, and shipped largely to England and other places, for making segars, or for other processes of manufacture that enhance its value.

The soil and climate are said to be well adapted to the growth of tobacco in all parts of the country.

WEDNESDAY, _October 18, 1865_.

We parted from our old friend Captain Feliciana, the courteous and kind Dom Queiroz, and our host, Senor Franco, at nine o’clock this morning.

Captain Feliciana is a plain, unassuming, genteel person, who has manifested his regard for us by going the entire round with us since leaving his own premises, and though over fifty-five years of age, he manifests considerable activity in exploring the country, and has really been of much service to us in communicating information of this region.

Dom Queiroz speak a little English, and relieved my embarrassment by the gentleness and urbanity of his bearing towards me during our sojourn at his house and our association subsequently. When I bade him good-bye, he said, in terms that required premeditation, with his limited use of English, “If I can be of any service to you at any time, call upon me. You will find me here, ready to serve you; and I am at your orders.”

Under other circumstances, this might have been viewed as a mere passing remark; but, having found him so unassuming in his hospitality previously, this kindness manifested at our parting was highly appreciated.

Our host, Senor Franco, has manifested the greatest generosity in supplying our wants, and also in providing for our animals and attendants.

He had a very interesting daughter, who had met us at the outset in the dining-room, and at each meal subsequently, causing us to take quite an interest in her dignified management during the indisposition of her mother. When we were ready to leave the house, Mr. Bennaton asked for her, and we shook hands with her, and gave her our best wishes at parting.

Senor Franco said that I would come with my friends to live amongst them, if I knew how much gratification it would afford the people of the country.

He kindly sent a negro man with us, to pilot the road, and we reached the residence of Senor Maj. Joaquim Roberto de Silveira at 4 o’clock P. M.; we got dinner promptly, but there being no corn on the place for our stock, he sent off to a neighbor, and after some hours procured only half a bushel, which affords but half a feed for night and morning.

He has recently settled this place, and has not yet made a crop of corn, which explains very satisfactorily his deficiency; but it was supposed that others in the neighborhood would have made a crop of corn, and could have responded to his call in a larger quantity than he procured. In asking him to procure the corn, Mr. Bennaton expected to pay for it, but he would receive nothing for it, and accommodated us, as all have done, in the true spirit of hospitality.

This section of country presents an admixture of campo and forest lands; the former being a light, sandy, barren waste; while the latter vary considerably in quality. Most of the woodland seen to-day was near the premises of our host, and though it looked as if cotton might be grown advantageously, there was a large element of sand, which predisposed it to wash, when there was much irregularity of surface. It had a dark gray aspect, and corresponded more to the character of soil seen in some parts of South Carolina than any land yet seen in Brazil, and may produce equally well.

THURSDAY, _October 19, 1865_.

After an early breakfast, we were supplied with a negro guide by Major Silveira, and travelling through a region that was almost entirely campo, we proceeded twelve miles to the residence of Senor Major José Maria Gavião, at São José.

In his absence, we were kindly received by his family; and upon his arrival, we had the strongest demonstration of his generous hospitality. He not only treated us with the best he had to eat and drink, but supplied us with fine horses to ride over his plantation.

He has only established himself here a few years, and yet his arrangements are very complete. He has a large tract of land lying remarkably well for cultivation, and very fair soil, though not of the best quality. It is free from frost, and thought to be well suited for coffee culture. He has one hundred and twenty thousand coffee plants of different ages already planted, and is ready to extend the number when he has rains to favor transplanting.

He has a good saw-mill, with perpendicular saw, which works very satisfactorily. He has also a grist-mill that makes beautiful corn-meal; and really it is refreshing to see the meal instead of farina, which is the substitute in most of the parts of the country for bread.

We availed ourselves of the fine bathing facilities at the mill to refresh our persons, and put on clean clothes. The Major sent down large towels for us, and provided likewise a bottle of Cognac, for us to take a little after concluding the bath, to prevent any bad effects of the cold water. Bathing in this climate is not only very grateful to our bodies but it is regarded essential to health and comfort.

I here had an opportunity of enjoying for the first time a feast of that delicious fruit, the jaboticaba. It is a large, dark purple fruit, resembling very much the appearance and taste of the finest specimens of muscodine, but the average size is somewhat larger than the largest muscodine, and the juice is even sweeter and more delicate than that of the muscodine. It is regarded entirely free from danger, when the juice alone is eaten, and many swallow the pulp also without experiencing any inconvenience. This fruit is an anomaly in its location upon the body of the trees, or upon the larger limbs, by a very short, delicate attachment, and is not found upon the twigs or ends of the branches as other fruits. The tree producing it is a tall, smooth, light-yellow colored forest growth; and in riding out to the woods, a negro ascended one of them and gathered a quantity of the fruit. It grows also when transplanted, and makes a beautiful shade-tree for a yard, while bearing the choicest fruit.

I ate at the house, likewise, the cassia, which is a fruit produced in the campos, and has a very pleasant acidulous taste, that is found very good when used as a lemonade with water. This fruit has the peculiarity of producing the seed at the lower end, exterior to the investment. Though found upon a small shrub in the campo, it is grown under cultivation upon a large tree, and of much larger size and finer flavor.

We were shown here a small hand-roller cotton-cleaner, which is the only reliance thus far for a gin. A small spinning jinney of the old pattern is also used; and the mortar and pestle are employed for beating big hominy.

FRIDAY, _October 20, 1865_.

We rode out this morning before breakfast to the location of a small colony of Brazilians, employed by Major Gavião in cultivating his lands. Most of them own some slaves, and they are also employed upon the place. As the sole object in these arrangements seems to be for the coffee culture, the contract with the proprietor leaves them free to cultivate the intervening ground for themselves, and the consequence is, that their cribs are full of corn, while the proprietor has to buy his supply from the country around. They have hogs, also, in fine order, and every thing about their little settlement looks to be in a thriving state. In addition to this, the laborer is paid five cents per year for each coffee plant that he sets out and gets to growing, thus having a good cash income, independent of the supply of provisions. This principle works well for the contractor, but is certainly not favorable for the landowner, as he certainly should avail himself of some part, at least, of the productions of the land, during the period it is occupied by the contractor or colonist, as he is, in this instance.

I observed at the house of Major Gavião a negro man with an indolent ulcer of the hand, which he was treating with acid nitrate of mercury, in the absence of any physician. I thought this quite heroic domestic practice, yet it was evidently a proper application, and I indorsed his treatment.

The negroes here, as at other places, were observed to labor in ditching without their shirts; and though this strikes one strangely upon first seeing it, the negro evidently consults his own comfort, as the shirt is usually tied round the waist. So far as I have had an opportunity of examining the clothing of negroes, the men wear a substantial shirt and pants of coarse cotton, and it is rare that one has been seen with ragged clothes. The women usually wear lighter material, and it is not uncommon to see a female servant about a house with an old calico dress, which has doubtless been cast aside by the white women of the family.

I was particularly impressed here with the freedom which was allowed some negro children in coming into the room occupied by the family, and with the attention given them by the Major.

Having no children of his own, he seems to make pets of these little darkies. He has likewise a number of huge dogs, which are very fond of lying about the house, and he tolerates them at times, but at others makes a clearing out of every thing, and closes an open-work door, which serves as a barrier to their entrance.

After a late breakfast, the dashing Major accompanied us a short distance, and left us with a guide to show us the route to the fazenda of Senor Dom Rafael Aguiar Paes de Barros.

He and his fine-looking wife received us most courteously and treated us very kindly. Upon being informed that I wished to look at any lands in the neighborhood which might be for sale, the Dom supplied us with horses, and rode with us to see some lands near his place. The soil appeared to be of superior quality, and the surface was remarkably smooth and level for this country, but there is not such a supply of springs as would be desirable for the use of families, and the only stream available for machinery is of small capacity.

The lands are bounded upon one side by the Rio Jacaré, the margins of which are said to be very liable to chill and fever, and have not been cleared up for cultivation. There is not sufficient fall in any part of this stream adjacent to the land for establishing any kind of machinery.

There is, however, an immense salto or water-fall upon the river Chimbarro, which runs near one end of the territory, but belongs to another party, who manifests no wish to sell. This water-power might be used for machinery of any magnitude, and the location would be a good one for a cotton factory, to work up the crude material of the country, and sell the proceeds to the people within adjoining districts.

The following are the tracts of land in the market:

João Baptista Lacenda 6,000 acres. José Rodriguez 1,500 acres. Donna Maria (Mai de Major Joaquim Roberto) 1,200 acres. The first can be bought for about $5,000. The second can be bought for about $3,000. The last can be bought for about $2,500.

These lands lie in juxtaposition to each other, so that they would together form a fine large plantation, and one good settlement, or perhaps more could be secured. The average of the whole makes the price one dollar and twenty cents per acre, and I have seen no body of land presenting such favorable conditions for a fazenda, though not adapted to a number of small settlements.

This territory lies eight miles south of Araraquara, and a considerable proportion of the two last-named tracts have been at one time cleared and under cultivation. But it is evident that it was not materially impaired, and it is again covered with a growth of taquara (a species of cane) and small trees of various kinds, which would be much more readily cleared off than the original forest.

This land is said to have been planted seven years ago in corn and beans, for the purpose of fattening hogs to be driven to market; but this trade being no longer profitable, it was abandoned, and the land allowed to grow up as stated.

The altitude of this region renders it very pleasant for a residence, and yet its exemption from frost enables the coffee to be cultivated successfully.

Dom Barros has already a portion of land adjoining these lands planted in coffee, which looks to be thriving well, though not old enough to bear fruit. I saw upon his place corn-stalks, that indicated its adaptation to this important crop, and pumpkins of good size were also seen in the field amongst the corn. He cultivates the sugar-cane very successfully, and has a large mill, in which he is constantly working it, with a firm yield of sugar and rum. The molasses is very little made anywhere I have been, and yet when produced is of the very finest quality. It is not used as we use it, in connection with the substantials of a meal, but is confined to use with the dessert, and is a most delicious syrup.

If the water-power upon the Chimbarro can be secured, in connection with these lands, it then becomes a very desirable investment, and as Dom Barros brings the water for his machinery from this stream, through a race two miles long, it may be that a privilege could be had from the owner, though he may not sell the land.