Part 22

That Santos will improve greatly in a few years is confidently anticipated, and lands within the city limits, such as these, must increase in value.

Mr. Wright accompanied us in visiting the lime-factory already mentioned as located at the edge of the water at the northern portion of the city; in which the shells and deposits of a calcareous nature from the island are worked up into a beautiful white lime. There is a small steam-engine for working the ventilating apparatus, which acts upon the furnace, and the fuel being placed beneath the mass of materials a heat is generated which transforms the shell into the gray crude lime.

After this process is completed, the mass is removed to the open chamber of the building, and parcel by parcel is sprinkled with water and placed in a pile, which developes warmth so great that the hand cannot bear it, thus producing the lime in ordinary use under the name of slacked lime. It presents a fine aspect, with all the other indications of a good quality of this article. There is no limestone near this place, and hence the shell is made available for lime.

We also visited the tannery located in the suburbs of the city near the margin of the coast on the north. It is by no means so neat as the one described in Rio de Janeiro, and the want of any systematic disposition of the refuse parts of the hides leaves them to create a stench about the place which attracts a number of buzzards.

The articles used chiefly for astringents in the tanning process are the same as observed in Rio; the leaf and bark of the manque manse and the manque bravo, which grow promiscuously over the extensive tidewater lowlands near this city. There is in connection with this tannery a rude lime-factory, which produces from the burning of shell the lime required for use at this place.

In examining the specimens of sole leather that were piled up under an open shed, the process of tanning seemed to be very thorough; and though there is not that care and attention bestowed which would insure the best results, yet this business has proved profitable to the proprietor. He has a small steamboat which is used for bringing in his materials for tanning, his raw-hides from the city, and in delivering his leather for shipment, or any other service connected with his operations. This diminutive craft makes regular trips also to Cubitão, connecting with the diligence line to São Paulo; and is frequently hired for excursions, thus making a nice little income, besides serving all the purposes of transportation for the tannery.

Mr. Wright tried to procure this small steamer for our party to visit Perique to-morrow, but found that it was engaged, and that it could not take us until Sunday.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether were invited by Mr. Wright to dine at his house to-day, it being the birthday of his elder son, Billy. His father-in-law, mother-in-law, and sister-in-law were also present on the occasion; and we were all favorably impressed and very much pleased with the performance on the piano by Mrs. Wright and her sister. Most of our Southern songs are played by Mrs. Wright, but really there are so few of them in keeping with the result of our struggle, that we feel but little interest in hearing them now.

In going out upon the street after dark with Mr. Wright, we observed there were some exercises at the Roman Catholic church; and upon entering, we found that a number of persons, principally females, were kneeling for mass; while vocal and instrumental music added interest to the scene. It was a day of some festival.

As we returned we met on the pavement at the entrance of a house Senor Manoel Pinto Soares; and soon afterwards his wife Donna Flora came down prepared for a walk. As they were going in the same direction with us, Mr. Wright devolved it upon me to escort the lady, and upon going forward with her, Senor Manoel suggested that she take my arm, whereupon I tendered her this assistance, which was accepted by her.

Though I could command but a meagre supply of the Portuguese language for conversation, I arranged my words so as to be understood, and her remarks were also comprehended, so that there was but little embarrassment. My observation has now satisfied me that ladies in refined society receive the same kind of attention from gentlemen as is customary with us.

SATURDAY, _December 9, 1865_.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether spent the night with me at Mr. Wright’s, and a cup of coffee being served to us very early we set out before 6 o’clock to the canoe of Senor Antonio Franco in company with Senor Street, for a trip across the water.

Mr. Wright’s double-barrelled fine English gun was taken along by the Major, and he had an opportunity of shooting at an alligator, (jacaré,) but it made its escape into the water.

Upon approaching the site of Senor Bastos, the canoe entered a sort of canal leading up into the land, and we then disembarked and walked a few hundred yards over a level, low, marshy plain to the house. Rice was seen upon one side presenting a healthy aspect; while on the other was a garden-spot that has received more than the usual attention, yet the vegetables did not look flourishing.

Vegetables do not usually grow well with us in any kind of soil without some artificial stimulus; and the art of manuring is almost unknown to these people, so that it is rare to see good vegetables.

The sugar-cane was also growing at a short distance from our path, but is a small variety with short joints, having a red or purple aspect, that is cultivated only for cachaça, (rum.) I infer from the specimen seen that the land has not the requisite fertility to produce the best cane.

The house upon this place is a large one-story building, having the rice and sugar apparatus under the same roof, worked by water-power. Most of the territory is mountainous and of little fertility; but the flat lands with proper management might be rendered productive and profitable.

SUNDAY, _December 10, 1865_.

I acquiesced in the arrangement for taking a voyage in the steamer to-day, though it was the Sabbath.

We visited the extensive establishment known here as Perique, in company with the proprietor, Senor Valencia, some twenty miles distant from the city of Santos.

The houses and grounds have been recently overhauled and renovated, presenting an attractive combination of extensive buildings, with a beautiful beach and delightful sea-breeze. The dwelling has eighteen rooms, besides a large dining-saloon and ample corridors, presenting an air of comfort that is rarely met with anywhere. There are also outhouses suited for the quarters of laborers and for all other purposes required on a fazenda.

We saw a portion of the land that would be well adapted to the cultivation of any of the staples, but this was not of large extent; and a great portion of it is low and marshy, so as not to suit any thing but rice. The entire territory is represented as containing sixteen square miles, and I should not think that more than two square miles is sufficiently fertile to repay for cultivation, a part being unfitted for use by reason of the serras and a part by the marsh.

This place and its present proprietor have been rendered somewhat famous by a hostile collision on his part with the English marines under Captain Croft, in 1850; who landed here under orders to suppress the slave-trade conducted through this port of entry.

Senor Valencia collected thirty-seven negroes and thirteen whites, with guns, and after being fired upon, they poured a volley into the ranks of the marines, which caused them to return to their vessel. He states that this body of troops had previously gone to another improved place on this land and burned several houses; and that he supposed it to be their purpose to burn these large buildings on the beach. He determined to resist their further destruction of his property, and secreting this force on the route by which he supposed the marines would approach the house, an elevated position was taken by him where he could watch their movements.

It was understood by his men that, upon a signal from him with a cow-horn, they were to use their weapons against the invaders. As the marines approached their position, one of the negroes becoming curious to see what was going on, rose up to look and was immediately shot in the head by the marines; whereupon, a blast from the horn induced them to return the fire promptly and with effect. One man was known to have been killed, and the signs of blood upon the spot and along the line of retreat gave evidence of the fire of his domestic guard.

Senor Valencia was subsequently demanded by the English government, and had to leave the country to avoid capture. He has spent most of the time since in Montevideo, until his interests there being ruined by the operations of the war with Paraguay, induced him to apply to the Emperor of Brazil for permission to return. He came back in June of this year, finding every thing about this place in disorder, and has endeavored to bring it again in workings condition with a view to dispose of it. It affords fine facilities for fishing, and might be made profitable in supplying the Santos market.

MONDAY, _December 11, 1865_.

We visited the factory of brick and tile on the main land beyond the bay, two miles distant from the city. It is the most complete, in all appliances, which I have seen anywhere, having a steam-engine to work up the mortar preparatory to moulding, and having a patent compressing apparatus that gives a neat smooth surface to the brick while it imparts solidity and firmness to the entire mass. The furnaces are constructed of stone and faced with fireproof brick, having a general finish which is rarely seen in such establishments.

I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of the tile-making. The mortar was first spread upon a flat board by the hand of a stout negro fellow, and then another passed a scraper over this, to remove the superfluous layer, when a third turned it upon the convex mould which gives it the proper shape, and bears it to a shelf, upon which it remains until sufficiently dry to be put into the furnace for the action of the fire.

In addition to the above-named articles there are also manufactured here various household wares, such as water tanks, or jars of very large size for keeping in public or private houses, earthen bottles shaped like demijohns, bowls, stew-pans, and which are used in place of metal vessels very generally.

The material used is a combination of the clay taken from the hillside with the mud of the low land, and while neither separately would be well adapted to the purpose, this mixture makes an excellent mortar for moulding and burning. There is not a large quantity of brick or tile on hand, but some of all the varieties of style and size, showing the capacity of the establishment to meet any demand.

Upon inquiring the price of the brick I was told that for the smaller size, nine inches by three inches, the cost was twenty-five dollars per thousand; for the larger, twelve inches by four inches, thirty dollars per thousand; and for flooring brick ten inches square, fifty dollars per thousand. The last-named is a broad, square, thin tile brick with a figure impressed upon it, which is decorative in fitting up the basement of houses or paving fancy walks in a yard or open court. It is not very likely that the above prices will encourage the builders of houses to change from their old style of mud walls; and really if some of our people, who know how to manufacture brick upon an economical scale, would come here and enter largely into the business, it must prove very profitable to them, while it would be a great advantage to those erecting houses in Santos.

The compressing machines are of English make, under the patent of Clayton & Co., and are worked by hand. The steam-engine for working up the mortar is from the works of Maler & Co., located at Rio de Janeiro.

There is a canal connecting the factory with the bay which greatly facilitates transportation. A tank or well in the yard under shelter affords a supply of water for mixing the mortar, while there is a fountain of pure and cool water coming from the mountain side through a pipe into a large marble receiver in the open air.

Captain Buhlaw arrived in the city to-day from Cananea, and represents the lands of superior quality, while the transportation by water is available on all sides of the territory. He states that the soil is dark and the trees are large, without much undergrowth of shrubbery.

TUESDAY, _December 12, 1865_.

Upon the arrival of the Santa Maria from Rio de Janeiro I went aboard with Captain Balbi, who invited me to take a seat in his boat, and found Mr. Bennaton there with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture to accompany us on our tour from São Paulo across the country. He stated that he could go now, and might not be able to accompany us if we delayed to make the trip to Cananea by water. I asked him if he thought it would be practicable to reach the country lying upon the tributaries of the Ribeira de Ignape and belonging to Cananea by going across from São Paulo upon mules; when he gave it as his opinion that we could make the trip, and said that he would advise us to adopt that course.

As this concurred with the view I had when the telegram was sent to Senor Street at São Paulo, and the boat upon which we expected to proceed might be still further delayed, I advised Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether that it would be better to pursue the course above indicated. It was accordingly arranged that Mr. Bennaton would go on to São Paulo to-day and that we should go to-morrow, it being understood with Senor Street that we would meet him at Xiririca, on the Ribeira de Ignape, so that he might assist us in the examination of the country. As Senor Street had already gone to the trouble to arrange for our visit by steamer, he was not satisfied that we should abandon that plan, but with the advice of Mr. Bennaton in favor of the other course, it was adopted.

Our baggage was sent by the transportation wagon of the diligence line forthwith, and we were notified that seats would be provided for us on a train of cars going out this afternoon to Moije station, where the cars stop for the night.

Mr. Henderson, the gentlemanly superintendent, gave us a pass over the road free of charge, and we were informed that the same would be extended on returning. We found a number of officials connected with the road on the train with us; also my friend, Mr. D. H. Sampson, and the Rev. A. G. Simonton, brother-in-law of Rev. A. L. Blackford.

After a ride of twelve miles we stopped at a public house kept by a German, who gave us an excellent dinner, with all the varieties of drinks usual in the city hotels.

Beds were spread upon the floor for the accommodation of our party, and we found every thing very comfortable.

We found here upon arrival Senor Martino, with a friend connected with the law school in São Paulo. They had come down with their guns and dogs, expecting to have a hunt in this vicinity; but it has been raining so constantly as to prevent the sport. Both of these gentlemen have been students of law for more than the usual term, but their fondness for the woods with their dogs and guns has taken more of their attention than their books. Senor Martino has now, however, graduated, and has consequently the title of Dom, as every one here has who is permitted to practise law. He has promised to send me a supply of indigo seed from Minas, where he resides and this plant is grown extensively.

WEDNESDAY, _December 13, 1865_.

After breakfasting some of our party repaired to the clear, cold stream, where a dam had been thrown up, and enjoyed a plunge bath, which was quite bracing and salutary.

We were conveyed from the station to the foot of the serra in a light open car, by a horse. We went in a rapid trot over the smooth parts of the road, but suddenly we were notified that the engine was meeting us, when our trella was stopped, and the horse disengaged so as to run it back and avoid a collision. The engine, however, stopped before reaching us, and we proceeded to the workshop on foot.

The entire party were next carried up the steep grade on the serra, of one foot ascent in every ten feet, for one mile and a quarter, by the action of a stationary engine of one hundred and sixty horse-power. We then walked a similar distance, a land-slide having interrupted the running of the inclined plane. Again we were drawn up the third section, and walked up the fourth, where the track was torn away by the sliding of the earth.

Much has been done here to overcome the natural difficulties presented by this serra, but much more has yet to be done before any reliance can be placed upon this line for transportation of freight, or as a highway of travel for passengers. Not only must the earth or stone upon which the track rests be secured against yielding, but the sides of the cuts in the serra must not be liable to slide, and thus endanger the passage of trains, or obstruct the road at various points.

There is a double track for one-half of the distance upon each of the four inclined planes, and a balance car runs down at one end of the huge wire cable, while the train is drawn up at the other extremity.

By sundry turns of this cable around the rims of large metal wheels connected with the stationary engines, the friction and resistance is such as to obviate slipping of the wire cable. This entire force is brought to bear upon the freighted train in its ascent, while the descending balance car keeps the cable tight, and exerts some influence upon the ascending train of cars.

At each of the four stations one of these immense engines, having five capacious and strong boilers, exerts its power in bringing up the trains. But all this seems now very much like the lever of Archimedes, with which he proposed to move the world if he could but secure a fulcrum. The basis of efficient operation for the road being the embankment upon which the track rests, it is indispensable that some plan shall be adopted to render it secure, or the tremendous power of the machinery can be of no avail.

At the close of our last walk we reached the level where the locomotive is sufficient to move the train, and after a lunch of cheese, bread and beer at a vende, (retail shop,) we took our seats in an open car and whirled along at a rapid rate over the road to São Paulo.

The use of iron stools of a concavo-convex shape as supports for the rail, instead of wooden cross-ties, is adopted here, but an accident from the breaking of one leads to the inference that they are unsafe.

There was one point upon the track at which two cars, loaded with dirt, discharged their cargo with remarkable despatch, by dropping the sides, that were attached by hinges, and then the negroes used their shovels to conclude the work.

We had on the train with us Mr. J. J. Auburtin, the general superintendent of the road; Mr. Henderson, superintendent of the working operations; Mr. Fox, president engineer; Mr. Hutchins, secretary to chief engineer; and Mr. Jesters, traffic agent. All the business offices are in the city of São Paulo, and the chief work-shops are located there also. The chief engineer of the company resides in England, and has his representative here looking after the business.

Upon reaching the Hotel da Europa, we met Mr. Bennaton, who informed us that arrangements were progressing for our trip; but it is most likely we may be detained several days, and we must practise that Brazilian virtue, patience.

Calling upon Mr. Blackford and lady during the evening, I found their house filled with ministers of the gospel, who are here with a view to organize a Presbytery, to exercise discipline among those who have become members of the Presbyterian church in this section, and to ordain a converted Catholic priest, who has been assisting in missionary work.

While the people here profess to be tolerant of other religions, some of the former enactments in regard to seats in the councils of state, and in regard to marriage, are calculated to discourage emigration, but it is expected that these things may be changed ere long.

THURSDAY, _December 14, 1865_.

The indications of delay here are evident, from all that can be learned to-day, and we feel that suspense which is natural to those earnestly desiring to accomplish an object.

I accompanied Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether to purchase an outfit of water-proof overcoats and leggins, which cost each of them twenty-two dollars and fifty cents, but they are now well provided against the rainy season.

This period of almost constant rain is now upon us, and lasts usually two or three months in this latitude. During the other nine months of the year, rain falls but seldom in any considerable quantity, and during June, July, and August, is regarded the dry season of the year. These being the coolest months, the relations of the wet and dry season to temperature differs from what is observed in the United States. The winter with us is usually the period of most rain; but there is not so marked a difference, as is remarked in Brazil, between the rainy and dry seasons of the year. I anticipate less inconvenience in travelling from the rain than would be experienced from the continuous hot sun during the day; and learning that the mornings are for the most part free from rain, we can do most of our riding early in the day.

A most important item to the traveller is to have along with him, at all times, a change of under-clothing, and for this object, a water-proof valise or satchel is very convenient. In this, his comb, tooth-brush, and a pair of slippers can also be kept at hand, though he may be temporarily separated from his baggage.

FRIDAY, _December 15, 1865_.

Mr. Bennaton now thinks that matters will be arranged so that we can leave day after to-morrow, but while we do not wish to retard any of the preparations, it is not expected that we will leave until Monday. None of us approve of travelling on the Sabbath, when it can be avoided.