Part 19

Having a letter of introduction from Mr. Bennaton to Mr. Carlos Nathan, I accompanied General Wood and Doctor Warne to his establishment, No. 77 Rua São Pedro; when he invited our party to dine with him and his brother George residing in Botafogo. As he feared there might be some disappointment in our finding the boat, he despatched a servant to conduct us at 2 o’clock to the proper place. The trip through the bay was very pleasant, and our escort being a New York negro he spoke fluently of the various interesting scenes, but still did not consider Rio a very desirable residence for free gentlemen of color. Arriving at Botafogo, it was found a most delightful, retired nook, with neatness and taste displayed in the houses and grounds, surrounding a small arm of the sea that extends between the mountain cliffs on either side. This is, perhaps, the most pleasant portion of the suburbs of the city for a private residence; and every consideration of economy, health, and retirement contributes to render this locality desirable.

The wives of these two brothers are sisters, of the family name of Goodman, from New Orleans, and speak French quite as readily as English. Their houses are near each other, and Mr. Brown and myself dined with Mr. Carlos Nathan, while the other two dined with Mr. George Nathan.

Mr. Carlos Nathan is manifesting more interest in the emigration from the Southern States than any of the former residents of the United States who live in Rio; and indeed these two brothers are the only men here who were in the South at the opening of the war, they having left to avoid the consequences that seemed inevitable from the enemy’s movements.

MONDAY, _November 27, 1865_.

While at breakfast this morning, I met with Messrs. S. W. Brooks, Major Robert Meriwether, D. H. A. Shaw, and Dr. Davidson, who arrived yesterday in the steam packet North American from the United States. They have come to examine the country in reference to business and as a location for families. Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether are the regular agents of a colonization society in Edgefield District, South Carolina, and bring with them an appointment embodying instructions from the president of the association.

As the representatives of other parties they have adopted the proper course in having authenticated credentials, which may be exhibited to those here who may be called upon to render them assistance in exploring the country. The matter-of-fact bearing on the part of these gentlemen will impress the officials of Brazil very favorably, and I trust their investigations may be conducted in a way to lead to most satisfactory results.

Dr. Davidson is here to act for some friends in Texas, while Mr. Brooks represents a company of machinists and operatives who desire to establish a foundry and machine-shop for working iron in all its various forms.

All these gentlemen impress me with the earnestness of their purposes and their business intentions, so that I hope to co-operate with them in the farther examination of the country; and will render them any assistance in my power to promote their object. The same facilities will doubtless be afforded by the government to them that have been extended to others.

Having failed yesterday to find any one at No. 92 Rua Direita, I called upon Mr. G. N. Davis this morning and received a letter from my wife, which, however, was written in August, and served very little to relieve the suspense felt in regard to my family, as great anxiety is manifested in regard to the future conduct of the negroes in the country.

This is the only information from any of my friends since leaving on the 26th of June; and I am quite anxious to know the present disposition of those who are expected to act with us in the projected move to Brazil.

I delivered a letter of introduction to-day to Mr. Joseph Bennaton, No. 125 Rua Direita, from his nephew, Mr. Newton Bennaton; whereupon he manifested a cheerful readiness to promote my wishes, and extended an invitation to sojourn at his house while I remained in the city. I thanked him for his proffered hospitality, but stated to him that circumstances made it desirable for me to stay at the hotel, where persons could be seen on business. His invitation to visit his family and take dinner to-morrow afternoon was however accepted.

A copy of the handbook for emigrants to Brazil, arranged by Dom Galvão, was received from him to-day by the hand of his secretary. In this, he has compiled the laws and public enactments of the empire of Brazil bearing upon the relations of foreigners in becoming residents of the country, with the regulations heretofore in force pertaining to colonization. It is expected that important modifications of the laws of Brazil will be made in regard to the anticipated emigration of people from the south of the United States, yet nothing has yet been definitely determined on by the authorities.

TUESDAY, _November 28, 1865_.

Upon calling this morning at the residence of the Minister of Agriculture, he was absent, and a note was left for him stating that I would return at ten o’clock to-morrow morning with other gentlemen from the Southern States.

Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson and Mr. Brooks called with me to-day upon Dom Galvão, and had a conference with him in regard to the emigration movement. He was so kind as to send his secretary, Mr. Mello, with us to one of the public offices to procure maps of the lower provinces of Brazil. This latter gentleman speaks English as well as Dom Galvão, and I accepted his invitation to go out to-morrow afternoon and make the acquaintance of his mother’s family.

I proceeded with Mr. Bennaton at four o’clock in the little steamer to his residence in Caju, and found the scenery in that precinct quite attractive, and his residence very pleasant. His wife is a German lady, much younger than himself, and they have three interesting little children. She is a fine performer on the piano and sings admirably, but as her pieces were mostly Italian I could not fully appreciate her music.

After dinner I joined them in a visit to Mr. Fox, who resides in an elegant house upon the hill, which is surrounded by grounds laid out in fine taste, and having the additional attraction of most excellent grapes, imported from the United States. He drew my attention to the fact of his dwelling being much damaged by an insect which destroys the texture of the wood and leaves the part without support. I supposed it to be the same that had been seen at the house of Mr. Blackford, where the interior of the wood was reduced to a mere powder, with a thin exterior layer.

This injury to the texture of the wood may escape observation unless there is a special examination of the particular part, as the perforations by which these insects enter the outer layer are very small, and all the fine sawdust made by their operations remains within this outer shell, that is not thicker in the specimen seen than coarse white paper.

Any iron rod, or even wooden pole, thrust against a piece of timber affected in this way would cause it to yield and fall into a hole, so that the damage might become in this way apparent when their presence was suspected in a house. But most of the heavy timbers being concealed, this mode of testing is impracticable, and they give way, as the first sign of the mischief going on within.

Mr. Fox has lived in Brazil for forty years, and conducted a large and successful mercantile business, by which he has realized a handsome competency, and has now retired. He is an Englishman, and has retained his nationality, raising his British flag on important occasions upon a flag-staff which stands in his yard. His views are expressed unfavorably to domesticating in Brazil, and yet his example of spending most of his life here, with a prospect of continuing here for the present, seems contradictory to his opinion.

He has not married, and yet has a senhora in his house, who stands in that relation which induces many in this country to dispense with a wife.

He is now perhaps over sixty years old, and this buxom-looking, dark-skinned woman is probably something over thirty-five, officiating at his table and discharging the other duties of housekeeper.

WEDNESDAY, _November 29, 1865_.

Being awakened at daylight, I accompanied Mr. Bennaton in a row-boat to the city. He had business which required his presence at his store very early, and as I wished to confer with the other gentlemen at the hotel in regard to matters for the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, it was very desirable to both that this early move be made.

Major Meriwether, Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson, and Mr. Brooks went with me at 10 o’clock A. M. to the residence of the minister, and after presenting these gentlemen I explained through the secretary, acting as interpreter, the nature of their mission. The papers embodying the authority under which they acted were submitted to the consideration of the minister by Major Meriwether and Dr. Shaw.

Upon learning that these latter two gentlemen desired to visit the province of São Paulo, the minister stated that they would be afforded the same facilities which had been received by others, and that they could likewise visit other provinces if they were not satisfied after examining this.

When it was intimated to the minister that I had not seen all the parts of the province of São Paulo which I desired to examine, and that it would be mutually agreeable to visit such sections of country with these gentlemen, he said this arrangement would be entirely satisfactory.

It was understood that Senor Ernesto D. Street would take charge of the voyage to Conceicão and Cananea, while arrangements would be made for Mr. Bennaton to proceed with us to other points in the interior.

Dr. Davidson, wishing to go to the Bay of Paranagua, had similar facilities afforded for his passage and subsequent examination of the adjacent country.

Mr. Brooks explained his object in coming here from the United States, to ascertain certain facts as to the location of iron-works in Rio de Janeiro; and that this being the centre of trade, it was not thought advisable to go elsewhere. He stated that all the appliances were in readiness to be brought here and put into operation should his information warrant the move, but as yet he had not learned those data upon which a conclusion could be based.

I adverted to the probable advantages of some location which could make the ore of Epanema available, and supply not only all the domestic and agricultural implements for the province of São Paulo and others adjoining, but eventually make railroad iron for the extension of the line in progress from Santos. The minister thought a situation might be secured with this view that would prove very favorable to business. But Mr. Brooks not being inclined at present to extend his observations and inquiries beyond the city of Rio, the minister assured him of his desire to encourage the erection of such works, and that any assistance which the government could consistently render would be extended to this enterprise.

The minister stated that there was no tax on capital employed in the various manufacturing operations, and that no duty is exacted upon such implements as emigrants may import upon their arrival in the country for their use.

Professional men, as doctors and lawyers, are required to undergo an examination upon coming here for the practice of their respective callings.

Negroes are not admitted into Brazil from other countries unless free-born, and even should they be citizens of the latter after being in slavery, it does not authorize them to be received here.

Regarding this a matter of much moment to those whose negroes would be willing to come with them to this country, I urged the importance of some modification of the existing regulations so as to permit those presenting free-papers from the United States government to enter Brazil. But the minister informed us that it was a provision of the constitution based upon international laws, that could not be altered without a reference to the other powers concerned, and, moreover, that this element would not be a very desirable addition to the population of the country.

There are certainly some aspects of the matter which make it of questionable propriety to admit this particular class of free negroes in a country where slavery exists, and the influence of these freedmen upon other free negroes and upon slaves in Brazil might tend to bring about similar scenes to those which have been enacted in the process of emancipation in the United States.

On the other hand, this skilled labor in the culture of cotton and in the working of machinery of various kinds, would be of much importance to the progress of agriculture and the arts. The negro from the Southern States could give negroes here a practical illustration in the use of the plow, which would be worth more to Brazil than all the treatises on agriculture which are likely to be written for twenty years; and in this respect a few of these negroes would prove very advantageous.

It is evident, however, that Brazil regards the institution of slavery as precarious, and we see already in the public prints allusions to future emancipation, and measures suggested for its gradual accomplishment, which are intended to prepare the public mind for this event at no very distant day. Where this question is discussed among a people whose interests are so largely involved in slavery as in this country, it may be taken for granted that there is a sentiment of opposition to it which will by piecemeal attain the end in view. The overturning of slavery by the result of the war in the United States is simply a sequence of abolitionism which has been at work for a series of years in shaping the policy of the government; and it is found that the same element is working industriously and too surely, for the final consummation and realization of their views in the securing of equal rights and free suffrage to the negro. I do not intend to convey the idea that the institution of slavery cannot be discussed with safety to the institution, for I hold that it rests upon a basis that is tenable in a moral, political, and social point of view; yet the presentation of this subject in the public prints indicates that there are many others besides those who write holding similar doctrines.

The English element of the population in this country is antagonistic to slavery, and is quietly instilling this principle, not simply by the expression of opinions, but in some instances by aiding in the liberation of slaves through contributions of funds for the purchase of freedom, and contracting for the service of the party for a certain period.

The minister informed us that no military service is exacted from residents of Brazil who are not citizens, and that only the service of home-guards is required from such foreigners as are naturalized.

No practicable measure has been devised for lessening the price of private lands which may be desirable for emigrants; but public lands will be put at the minimum price of twenty-two cents per acre, with the privilege of five years to pay for it.[21]

I informed his excellency that no formal report of my observations, up to this time, had been prepared, from the fact that it was my wish to make a further examination of the country, and that a final report, covering all, would be rendered when this tour was concluded.

On our way back to the hotel, the extensive and admirably arranged tannery (cortuma) of Mello & Co., in São Christovão, was visited by the party; and we were quite surprised to find so much taste and neatness displayed in the surroundings of the place. The structures are not simply substantial, but manifesting an architectural skill and perfection of arrangement that is not often found in buildings for similar purposes anywhere. The grounds are laid out artistically, and ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, so as really to make this place of business a pleasant resort.

The interior is provided with all the appliances for treating the hides, from packing them down, while fresh, in salt, to dressing the leather and finishing it off for use. There is a mill run by steam for grinding the bark and the leaves of the manque bravo and the manque manse, which furnish the astringent for making the tan ooze.

The small tree affording these materials grows very abundantly in the swampy lands near the coast in various portions of this country, and the principle of tannin is so strong in the leaves of the manque manse, that it makes a black dye which is indelible. There are, also, other trees growing in the forests here which furnish barks that are used for tanning; one of which has been pointed out to me, and is found upon the slopes of the serras in great profusion.

The vessels used in this establishment are huge reservoirs, made after the style of a half-barrel, with a diameter of five feet and a depth of three feet, into which a decoction of the astringents is conveyed, and in this the hides are deposited for a time, and afterwards laid down with astringents in the vats, to undergo the tanning process.

There are three sets of vats: the fresh water vats for soaking the recent hides, the liming vats, and the tanning vats. These are all laid in cement, and of course retaining all the fluids that are placed in them. The dimensions are about six feet long, five feet deep, and four feet wide. The fresh water is supplied by a system of pipes, and regulated according to the demand.

The refuse angles of the hides, and also those portions of the skin about the feet, with the hoofs, are converted into glue, and every thing is economized with the greatest care and neatness, preventing any bad smell.

The average period allowed for the action of the astringents upon the hides is six months; and I was informed that some three thousand (3,000) hides are taken out monthly, giving thus an annual yield of thirty-six thousand (36,000) skins tanned here.

Notwithstanding the apparent system of this extensive establishment, I understand that it has not proved very profitable to the proprietors; and it may be that there is more style than efficiency in its management.

There are three other large tanneries in the suburbs of the city; and, from the specimens of leather examined, the art certainly seems to have attained a high degree of advancement. Whether the materials ordinarily used here are preferable to red oak bark, I have no means of determining. In some sections, the logwood is a native growth, and it is employed for tanning the heavy sole leather; but this is not regarded the best quality of leather for any domestic use, and is generally shipped to other parts where heavy shoes are more in demand.

Subsequent to the examination of the tannery, Dr. Shaw and myself visited the butchering establishment, where the greatest portion of the beef eaten in this little world of a city is slaughtered, and the appliances are co-extensive with the immense demand. Some of the machinery for securing and killing the animals would afford an interesting item for description; but, having no taste for this species of mechanism, I will pass it over with the simple mention, that it is evidently well adapted to the object in view. The huge carcases that were suspended in the building were of the well-defined varieties of Pharaoh’s cattle, and it occurred to me that I should like to make my _choice_ here of what I should eat.

There is no general meat-market in Rio as in most large cities; but there are houses in all the different streets who deal in the flesh of different kinds, thus supplying all demands. One of the noticeable features connected with this butchering establishment is the immense collection of the largest horns that have ever been produced in any country. It would have afforded quite curious information to have measured one of these tremendous developments; and, most assuredly, the slang phrase of taking a horn never had its origin from the use of those having such proportions as were exhibited here. The cattle from the lower provinces of Brazil, that furnish many of the beeves for this market, are very large, and have the most disproportionably large horns that it has fallen to my lot to see upon the head of any animal, being, thus, of huge size.

All the juices are extracted from the bones of the animals that may be left on hand, or returned here for this purpose, and soap is produced from it, while the substance of the bone is reduced to a charcoal that commands a good price.

The entrails of the beeves are also cleaned of every portion of the tallow, and they are afterwards used for making soap on the premises.

The negro women engaged in this operation of washing the intestines present quite a graphic scene. Instead of using vessels of water, they carry a lot of these filthy things into a canal of water which is located between the butchering-house and the boiling establishment, and the water being considerably above knee-deep, it behooves them to have their clothing protected from getting wet at the expense of denuding their entire lower extremities. Their skirts are tucked about their waists, with a fold passing round between the thighs, which thus gives a display of nature unadorned.

According to appointment, Mr. Mello called at my room this afternoon, and Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, Mr. Brown and myself joined him, to make a visit to the Botanical Garden, and also to call at his mother’s house on the way.

Taking an outside seat on the hack, I enjoyed a good view of all the scenery along the drive of five miles, and found the many fine improvements and the beauties of nature on the mountain sides very attractive. At several points the road lay close by the water’s edge, and in one locality the wall which had been erected as a barrier for the waves had been undermined, and had tumbled down, with a considerable caving in of the land, reducing our passage to a narrow way. The lofty peak of the Corcovado was towering above us, and the little rivulets of water coursing down its sides glittered in the rays of the descending sun, while here and there along its base were neat cottages or palatial dwellings of those who sought refuge from the din and confusion as well as the heat of the crowded city.

Going forward, we reached the garden, with its grand and gorgeous colonnade of majestic palm trees, which is doubtless the most perfect type of quiet dignity and simple beauty that the world can present. Much has been done in rendering portions of these grounds artistically attractive, and yet the beauties of art are overshadowed by the greater beauty of nature presented in the forest that has been left upon the back of the garden. From this hillside there is a stream of water tumbling down in artificial cascades, and running on to form a beautiful lake upon the plain below, all fringed with green.