Part 15
Our host is lively and intelligent, speaking French with fluency, and having a little knowledge of the English. Shortly after our arrival at his house, I made some remark to him in Portuguese, which at first was not understood, and he indicated his wish that it should be repeated, by the usual word, “Como?” (How?) I used the same expression again and was fully comprehended, and answered accordingly. Immediately after this, General Wood’s interpreter, Mr. Snell, who is an Englishman that has been a number of years in Brazil, spoke to the Dom in Portuguese, and he, taking this to be another American with a slim stock of the language, did not comprehend what was said, and replied to him, “Não entendo,” (I don’t understand.) This gave us a good laugh upon Mr. Snell. In my use of the language it was simply “Como?” but with him, who was here as interpreter, the party addressed was compelled to say “Não entendo,” taking him to be a novice in Portuguese. The fact is, that while Mr. Snell understands the language well, and speaks it fluently, he has a habit of cutting off the last syllable of his words, that makes it somewhat difficult at times to gather the full meaning of his remarks, and hence this mistake.
The lady of the house has evidently associated more with gentlemen than most of those occupying a like position, and hence appears more at ease in company, joining in general conversation with those who speak the language. She departs greatly from the habit of our ladies by suckling her child in the presence of gentlemen. Though she was in the dining-room during our meals, the crowded table was perhaps a sufficient reason for not being seated with us, and she was looking after the proper supply of articles by the servants, though the Dom seemed to assume the chief responsibility in this respect.
The culinary arrangements of this establishment, like most others in Brazil, are under the same roof with the residence of the family, and the fire is built upon the earthen floor in the open room, without any other outlet for the smoke than is afforded by the spaces between the tiles which cover the house. As it was rather cool during the evenings, we took a seat in a circle around this fire, and thus had a very sociable _family circle_, which gives me the key to an explanation of that term, which has never before been fully understood.
Our host follows the course of his kinsman, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, in regard to the abundance of supplies upon his table at all three meals, and supper is quite equal to breakfast in the variety of the articles. I tell them that they give us three dinners every day, and if we were to remain stationary, all would be foundered in a short time, or take the gout, though I do not hear of this affection in the country.
We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.
We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length. The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found for food.
The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of torpidity after the mode of reptiles.
MONDAY, _November 6, 1865_.
In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, and set out for Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.
The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the fertility of the soil.
Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest) has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.
The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section are liable to some frost in the cold season.
I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio Jahu, and to the distance of two leagues, or eight miles, on the south side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very advantageously for cultivation.
After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.
We rode over a comparatively level region in coming from the house of Senor Lima to this place, and though not giving evidence of so much fertility as that near the Rio Jahu, it is generally of good quality, and is well supplied with water for ordinary domestic purposes. There was no portion of useless land seen upon this route, and no campos have been encountered since leaving the town of Brotas. The timber throughout this plateau is of good size, and much of it very favorable for splitting to make fences, as the quarenta, which grows especially abundant near the fazenda at which we are stopped. This tree is very durable when made into rails, and has its name from the impression that it lasts during forty years. In entering the premises, I observed the neatest and most substantial fencing yet seen in Brazil, and was informed that the rails are of this material. One end of the rails is embedded in the earth, and they are arranged side by side in a perpendicular form, with a cross-bar of the palmetto running horizontally about two feet from the top, which is secured by being lashed continuously with the sipo vine. This sipo is a long and slender vine of surprising strength and flexibility, which is used for confining the rafters of houses, tying timbers together where pegs or nails would be used with us, baling cotton, and, indeed, for any purpose to which ropes might be applied. It is called in common parlance the Brazilian nail, and it is remarkable to what an extent it is made a substitute for nails.
It is particularly well suited for constructing these stake-fences, and no better enclosure can be devised for the protection of a crop against large or small intruders.
General Wood, Doctor Warne, and Mr. Snell parted from the rest of us at the house of Senor Lima, and went down to the mouth of the Jahu, and descended the river Tieté in canoes for two miles. They gave a favorable account of the general outline of the banks on each side, but found the channel of the river so shallow in several places that the canoes came in contact with the bottom, and it was requisite for the boatmen to draw them over by getting out into the water. There was one point at which there were rapids or falls, and they got out upon the shore, while those in charge of the canoes carried them over the fall, receiving them again below into the canoes.
This being a drought of many months continuance, the river is said to be lower than it has been before for twelve years, and the ordinary level of the water is stated to be six feet above its present state. It is thought by persons acquainted with the river, that there is sufficient water during the rainy months, to afford a passage for flat-bottomed propellers to Perecicaba, from which point there is a wagon-road to Campinas, and from thence the railroad will perhaps be available in a few years.
From the account received, and from my personal inspection of the river, I think there is but little prospect of navigating it with safety, and unless there be a practicable route for a railway to this region of country, its products must depend on transportation by pack-mules.
The elevated serra near Brotas is perhaps the most serious obstacle to a railroad, and it remains for engineers to determine whether this can be overcome.
If a line of railroad is extended to Araraquara, and can communicate with the Rio Jaceré below Cambury, then this section of country lying between the Tieté and Jaceré might avail itself of the Jaceré for navigation up to that point, and thus get an outlet for its products.
The Jaceré is represented to have a deep and open channel from its mouth up to Cambury; and all the rich region lying between it and the Tieté and extending along the Jahu would be better accommodated by effecting this result than to attempt to navigate the Tieté upwards.
TUESDAY, _November 7, 1865_.
Having but a limited number of beds, our host provided some dried raw-hides which were spread upon the dirt floor, and about one-half of our party slept upon them, with their overcoats, &c., assisting to fill out the scanty supply of bedding. There was no particular inconvenience experienced except from the fleas, which found ready access to our friends upon the hides and interrupted somewhat the quietness of their repose. Mr. Snell and myself were perched upon a long high table, and being thus above the jumping height of a flea we fared very well. I have carried a blanket and pillow throughout my trip, and found them with my overcoat very convenient on this occasion. A bed had been assigned to me, but feeling that our good friend Senor Joaquim Lorenço should of all others be provided for, I persuaded him to occupy the bed, and I slept comfortably upon the table during the whole night.
With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied, and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.
The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was drawn forth on this occasion to give a zest to the fine fish, and the entire bottle was consumed.
In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset, four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge, thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.
After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs. Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant, and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river, and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications of barrenness.
We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be replanted. No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the coffee trees.
The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.
The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this territory.
We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the fruit.
We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and some of the party were not apprised that any place claiming a name had been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels, and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.
At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.
We returned to our rendezvous a while before night, and found the rest of the company had not stirred beyond the premises during the day; and some of them were perched upon some timber for machinery that lay in the yard, while others met us, while relaxing their limbs in a short walk from the house toward the outer gate of the enclosure.
WEDNESDAY, _November 8, 1865_.
We left the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose at 6 o’clock this morning, after partaking of an early breakfast, and returned to the house of our old friend Senor Lima. Here he had collected his breeding stock for our observation; and though the mares were generally of small size, there were a few very good young horses, and the colts for the most part looked well. It is a little remarkable to observe how entirely quiet the stallions are, when allowed to run at large in this way with a promiscuous drove of animals. There was a jackass also running with the stock, yet I saw no young mules; and the dull and lifeless aspect of this animal gave no promise of an increase of his stock. There were thirty mares, and if even this number were employed in rearing mules, it would doubtless prove profitable; but this scrubby specimen of horses, which are propagated, are not likely to give much return for the trouble of looking after them. These animals subsist entirely upon grass, and very rarely get salt, as it is too costly at these interior places to be afforded for stock, except in very small quantities.
Dining with Senor Lima we proceeded afterward upon the same route by which we had gone up, and reached the residence of Senor Dom Correa Leite de Moraes at four o’clock in the afternoon. He and his wife received us again most hospitably, and have extended all the kindness possible to our whole party.
Our saddle-mules have remained here in his pasture, and been fed with corn daily from his crib, while our clothing has been washed and ironed in our absence. The pack-mules have been sent off this afternoon so as to keep ahead to-morrow.
THURSDAY, _November 9, 1865_.
Our cheerful and hospitable friend, Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, and his kind lady, received our cordial acknowledgments at leaving them this morning. Our own mules being fresh, moved off with alacrity, and upon reaching the Freguezia de Jahu, we were met by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, and invited to the house of his son-in-law, where wine and coffee were served, and his wife and daughter came out to bid us adieu. It was thought that this demonstration was in part for the purpose of showing his unmarried daughter to one of the young men, to whom the father had taken a fancy for a son-in-law. But I doubt if the impression was well calculated to promote his wishes for incorporating an American graft into his family. This young man was furnished with a list of the entire family, and received a very cordial embrace from the father at parting.
We breakfasted at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozinto, and found him this time awaiting our arrival, with every thing in readiness for giving us a substantial entertainment. He had very kindly furnished mules for some of our party during the recent trip, and had accompanied us in person until sickness made it necessary for him to return.
The land from Jahu to this fazenda is of superior quality, being of the dark brown order, and as this is eight miles from the Rio Jahu, it may be inferred that this fine soil extends to a like distance from the river elsewhere on this side, which corresponds to the statement made in regard to the breadth of good land extending along this stream.
The general health of this region of country is very good, yet there are cases of chill and fever reported upon the Tieté and Jaceré, and throughout the region lying adjacent to those water-courses. No instance was brought to my knowledge of malarial disease remote from these streams; and, from the general aspects of the country, I would not think it likely to prevail to any considerable extent away from their margins.
I saw but two instances of goitre or bronchocele in this entire region of country, and the information received from Dom Correa is conclusively that they were not generated here, but imported from other parts. There is no serra here, and so far as my observation goes, goitre is confined to those living in the vicinity of the serras.
This section and the country about Araraquara are the only parts visited thus far in which this ugly deformity did not prevail amongst the women.
It is not however confined to the women exclusively, as several instances have been seen among males, and the condition of climate, water, atmosphere, or diet, which promotes the development of this condition, cannot be favorable to the constitutional health of those exposed to its influence. No leprosy found here.