Part 21

This man is not without means, and though he has a family residence in the villa, this unoccupied house has been set apart for our accommodation, that we might not be disturbed by the children, who are represented as dirty little brats.

TUESDAY, _December 5, 1865_.

I had resolved and re-resolved as I turned from side to side upon my hard support for the night, that upon the first indications of light I would assume the erect position, and my companion in affliction, Dr. Shaw, complained aloud most bitterly, insisting that he could not remain in this position until daylight. Our neighbors, Major Meriwether and Mr. Jackson, who bunked together, murmured in like manner audibly of their hard lot. After all of us had risen and dressed, a servant came to inform us that in the first place coffee would be prepared for us, and within two or three hours breakfast might be expected.

Under these circumstances I proposed a visit to the convent which stands out in bold relief upon an elevated hill. As the morning was cloudy our view was circumscribed, but sufficient to show that the plain of low land upon which Conceicão stands extends to a considerable distance, and is limited by the serra on all sides excepting next to the ocean.

The old building gives indications of decay in many parts, while in others repairs are progressing to fit it for the approaching festa on the 8th instant. This festival is superintended by Colonel Albuquerque, of Santos, who has been elected as the Festeiro, and will have to expend over a thousand dollars in the preparations for this huge folly.

We next called upon the Roman Catholic priest of this place, with a letter of introduction from the vicar at Santos. He was found in an uninviting apartment, and received us with that dry courtesy which makes one feel that it is better to go away as soon as civility will permit.

Having disposed of a very substantial breakfast, we waited until 12 o’clock for the tide to assist us in ascending the Rio Conceicão, and set out with Senor Ferreira in a canoe, made after the style of the Mississippi dug-out. With a supply of farina and boiled jerked-beef to meet our wants for subsistence, and some matting to keep us from contact with ground at night, as well as to set upon in the canoe, we were propelled by three able-bodied mulattoes, who used the paddles as if they were trained to this service upon the water.

Upon embarking, we observed that the mouth of the river was very shallow, but we were told by Senor Ferreira that at high tide a small schooner could enter, and that he had a vessel which came in to load and unload. There is a narrow neck of land separating the river from the ocean, through which an artificial channel might be opened without a great deal of labor, giving a much better entrance than across the present rocky bar of the outlet to the sea. Should the resources of the country warrant this proceeding, it looks as if it would be entirely practicable. After passing the bar the river is deep, and well adapted to navigation for eight or ten miles, up to the mouth of the Rio Prata, and thence the last-named is said to be navigable for twelve miles.

The main channel of the Rio Conceicão is not fitted for navigation above the mouth of this river, and but for the increase of water by the recent rains, our canoe could not have ascended more than a few miles beyond this point. Below, however, this river presents a fine body of water, and is for the most part from ten to fifteen feet deep.

After ascending about twelve miles it began to rain, and going some three miles further we stopped for the night at a rude shanty occupied by a woman and five children. One son and one daughter were nearly grown, but the whole presented a scene of slovenliness and abject misery which made us realize that our lot was cast in even a worse place than the night previous. But this time there was no alternative, and we took it in the true spirit of wayfarers and explorers.

After eating pretty heartily of our cold victuals with hot coffee, I indulged my curiosity by going into the end of the house where the family were clustered around the small fire upon the dirt floor, and saw in the imperturbable don’t-care expression of the woman that no situation in life is so debased but that it affords satisfaction. While that filthy creature sat on the ground smoking her pipe, with a few small fish in a pan and a little sour and stinking farina in another vessel as the only provision for the wants of her household, she doubtless had less concern for the future than many who are surrounded by the comforts of life. The idleness and the niggardliness of this class of people here[23] presents a most despicable view of life, and the worst feature of all is, that they seem entirely reconciled to this mode of living. I felt a constant apprehension of vermin while in this shanty, and my only consolation was, that “life as it is” could be seen and studied in a phase that was not often presented for my observation.

When we were ready for sleep sundry doors and benches were brought into use for spreading our mats; and, Dr. Shaw taking a place with me, the irregularities of the door proved worse than last night.

WEDNESDAY, _December 6, 1865_.

After a night long to be remembered in the annals of rancho lodging, we were glad to make an early rise, and all sung out with one accord, let us go away, “vamos embora! vamos embora!” Our escort insisted that we should remain until some coffee was prepared, and a pigeon, shot by Major Meriwether on yesterday, being boiled at the same time, we enjoyed a taste of it with some crackers, which constituted a very dainty repast.

In the mean time one of the boys of the family was presented to Dr. Shaw for prescription, and viewing his state as the result of the impoverished state of the blood, he directed that some vinegar should be put into a bottle with nails, and that he take fifteen drops of this fluid three times a day. In the absence of other remedies this was a good expedient, and could not perhaps be improved if the whole materia medica were at hand.

The older son, who was nearly grown, hoping for some improvement of his sanguiferous system, also applied to the Doctor for the exercise of his skill.

On bringing him up Mr. Jackson, who was acting as interpreter, suggested, that as the other was to take the vinegar, this fellow might perhaps derive benefit from taking the nails, and he urged this more especially as he was complaining of a stiff neck, that might be modified by swallowing a few of these large iron spikes. The Doctor, however, thought that a double dose of the vinegar would suffice, with the use of a plunge bath and good scrubbing every morning. This latter clause might have been recommended as a prophylactic to the whole family, with the free use of soap, &c.

Getting into our dug-out the expedition was continued up the river, and, after ascending five or six miles, the stream became shallow and very swift in its course from the serra, which was now very near. Our canoe was stopped at a flat, broad sandy beach, having large pebbles intermixed with stones at one extremity, and we availed ourselves of the latter to erect a small monument to the folly of the personage who accompanied us on this voyage. He had, in compliance with our request to see the lands suited for agricultural purposes, transported us upon water to a point from which there was no egress, even on foot, and, in the mean time, he was industriously occupied in delineating upon the sand the course of the river, and its tributaries, with the crests of the serras intervening, by which he undertook to illustrate the desirableness of the lands for the settlement of our people. After concluding his comments upon this sketch he manifested great anxiety to know how we were pleased with the country. To this I returned the rather equivocal answer, that all were satisfied with his drawing and explanations, and were ready to return in the canoe to Conceicão.

In our descent of the river we stopped at one of the four settlements on the margin, and a woman in great trepidation commenced hallooing, in a tremulous voice, João! João! Efforts were made to quiet her fears by Senor Ferreira, and to convince her that our mission was one entirely of a pacific nature, but she did not seem satisfied until the man João came to the house, and then another girl came out also to see the curious strangers.

Here was seen perhaps one of the best samples of the lands of this section, it being immediately at the foot of the serra, and thus receiving the deposits of decayed vegetable matter and portions of soil that are washed from its sides by the rains. Vegetation was quite vigorous, and the ground that was intended for the growth of a crop was preoccupied to a great extent with weeds and shrubbery, indicating a good soil, but a want of industry and a want of the proper information for its cultivation. We were shown a specimen of the sugar-cane growing in the midst of rubbish from the fallen timber, and choked by a growth of grass which still showed the adaptation for this crop, and all were of the impression that, with judicious management, the cane would yield profitably in this land.

The other articles which were planted, corn, beans, and sweet potatoes, were growing under great disadvantages, but gave signs of sufficient fertility in the soil to warrant better results. Upon inquiry as to the growth of cotton, we were shown two stalks that had sprung up among the brush, which gave very little promise of a yield, and no inference could be drawn from such a specimen.

Some coffee trees of three years growth were seen upon this ground, but their appearance was unfavorable, and it is most likely this crop would prove unprofitable in this sea-coast region.

The soil of the serra being mixed with that of the flat land in this particular locality, gives better results than could be obtained from either taken separately, and it would doubtless make a good return for labor bestowed in transferring soil from these slopes to the damp flat land below.

It is due to the man João and his two sisters, to state that they were neat and clean in their dress, and presented rather more of a genteel appearance than is seen among the lower class of people in this country. With their decent bearing, it was a matter of surprise that no more skill or industry was manifested in the culture of the small piece of land which was planted.

We got one of these women to prepare coffee for us, and with the remnant of our cold victuals made a very respectable breakfast. Some of the party had partaken so freely of sugar-cane, that it became a subject of discussion as to the bill for damages that might be brought against the consumers of the products of this man’s farm.

After descending two miles further, we stopped at a farm of Senor Ferreira, where there is a building for a residence, including the machinery for a rice-mill. Here we saw corn growing tolerably well, and also rice and sugar-cane of fair quality; but the cultivation of the land showed but little more care than at the other place. It is evident that this property, which he desires to sell, has induced him to confine his arrangements to an examination of the few points worthy of notice along this river. But we saw enough here to convince us that the country is not adapted to our purposes.

Mr. Jackson bought at this house two otter skins for fifty cents each, the boy declining to take the price until we got some distance from the house, when he came running after us with the skins, asking for the money.

In going down the river several shots were fired with pistols at water-birds, a ligarto, &c., but there was no execution done by any of the party.

At one point on the margin of the river we saw several parties preparing to embark in canoes, with stores of various kinds, intended to serve them in visiting the villa during the approaching festival.

Following after us were two canoes, in each of which a woman was assisting to paddle while standing up, and seemed to be accustomed to this kind of service. Already a number of people from the surrounding country have arrived with their supplies, bringing even their fuel in the canoes, and they live in freedom from all restraint, after camp style, during their sojourn at the place. These festas are religious ceremonies, without much show of solemnity, in which mass is said, and is followed by sky-rockets and fire-works of various kinds. Then comes the banquet by the festeiro, and such other festivities as the occasion may suggest, or the people desire for recreation.

After reaching the landing at Conceicão we assisted in drawing the huge canoe from the water upon rollers of wood, and thus taking it upon the beach beyond the ordinary rise of the water. Here lay quite a number of similar vessels of these people awaiting their further movements upon the water.

We brought down with us a supply of the palmetto, which is prepared by stripping off the outer layer, until the central tender and white stem alone remains. This is then chipped off from the end by a knife, and boiled or stewed with a little fresh meat, and seasoned with pepper and salt, making one of the best vegetables I have eaten in Brazil. The portion used is about a yard long, presenting a green exterior, and found at the top of the trunk of the palmetto, (a species of palm,) with the leaves spreading out at its upper extremity. There are the sweet and bitter, of which the latter is particularly good for the stomach.

THURSDAY, _December 7, 1865_.

It being understood that the cart was to be ready for us to start upon our return at six o’clock this morning, we rose and got a cup of coffee shortly after five o’clock a. m. But, on repairing to the cart, it was found that the mules were not even caught from the open common in which they had been grazing, and that it would be necessary to find them before they could be harnessed for the trip.

As Senor Ferreira did not make his appearance, we sent a messenger for him, and in the mean time, the head man of the trio who paddled the canoe up the river presented his account. He was informed that this would be settled, with any other claims which might be rendered, through Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, for services received by our party during this trip.

Up to this time, we had no means of knowing our true relations to this personage, and were doubtful whether to consider ourselves the guests of a gentleman who had taken charge of us at the request of his friend the vicar at Santos, or were to regard this man as simply a business agent to procure what might be required on our account.

This question was summarily solved by the presentation of an account, by him, for all accommodations afforded us, as follows:

Carriage from Santos to São Vincente $4 00 Passage in canoes from São Vincente 2 00 Eating breakfast at São Vincente 2 00 Lunch and porterage on the way 3 00 Boating up and down river 5 00 Eating at Conceicão 5 00 Transportation on the beach 20 00 —————— $41 00[24]

In addition to this, the servants at the house were paid two dollars and fifty cents for their attention; and thus it is hoped and believed that all obligations are cancelled to this Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, of Conceicão.

It is proper to remark, that the cart and mules used for our transportation on the beach were the property of this individual, and that the turn out was kept for the purpose of making money out of the passengers on this route along the beach.

Colonel Albuquerque, having arrived during the night, called to see us while awaiting the slow movements of our postilion; and I was pleased to find that he spoke some English, as did each of his three sons, who had gone a voyage on the Onward, with Captain Clark, who married their sister. The Colonel, thinking of our needs during the day, sent us a box containing a chicken, some Dutch cheese, biscuits, grapes, and a bottle of excellent port wine, which afforded a good repast on the beach. Though our acquaintance was slight, and he was merely sojourning here temporarily with his family, yet he extended that consideration to us which has characterized the bearing of all Brazilian gentlemen heretofore.

The Catholic priest had called to see us at our quarters, and gave us a passing call this morning, when proceeding on some professional duty in the vicinity of our rendezvous.

There is a large church besides the convent in this place. The buildings are chiefly in one straight row, and a few for a short distance on the opposite side, with a sorry and woe-be-gone population not exceeding twenty-five or thirty families, doing but little business.

The mules being at length in readiness we made a start with a team of four at 9 o’clock A. M., but only proceeded a short distance when the double-tree in front was broken, and it became necessary to proceed with but three mules. On reaching the beach the lead mule became unmanageable and ran into the sea, taking the others and cart so far that upon the return of the waves from the tide we were likely to go afloat, thus facilitating our transportation rather more than was desirable.

This trouble was corrected for the future by placing a man, who accompanied the driver, astride of the front mule, but the great difficulty of slow movement was not so easily overcome, though he was supplied with a pair of our spurs, and both these drivers plied the rod most vigorously upon the animals.

I counted the number of blows inflicted upon one of these beasts within five minutes at two different periods, and they averaged ten to the minute; which for five hours, the term of the trip, would make the round sum of three thousand lashes received by this mule.

Our postilions were German sailors and both spoke some English, so that we could communicate with them. After an interruption in our voyage by some derangement of the rigging, they both got into position for advancing, and Alberta Deyer, who was on the driver’s seat, called out to Lewis Thompson, who rode the front mule, “Now take your course south by half west, and make sail—vamos.” With these two high-pressure oscillating engines we made about three knots an hour; and for a time all of us were quite amused at the extraordinary proceedings of these fellows, but eventually it became a most serious matter, and nothing could urge our lazy and jaded beasts out of a walk. I remonstrated with the drivers not to inflict further punishment upon the animals, as the blood was already to be seen in various parts, not only from the spurs but from the heavy blows of the poles used by these athletic sons of the ocean.

At length we reached the point where the road turns from the beach, and it was questionable whether the mules could go any further; but it continued to rain, and it was desirable to remain under cover as long as any progress could be made in the cart.

We had gone however a very short distance when some mismanagement of our helmsman brought the wheels on one side almost into a very deep ditch, and the mule next to the ditch, with the instinct of self-preservation, which is characteristic of that animal, leaped with its fore feet over the tongue. There was imminent danger of being upset, and all hurried out, with our baggage in our hands, determined to proceed on foot. A bottle of rum had been got on the way, to counteract the soaking rain upon the drivers, and giving them another drink they were left to exercise their sailors’ ingenuity to avert shipwreck of their craft.

Walking nearly three miles we crossed the Bertioga again in a canoe, and upon reaching São Vincente[25] hired horses for one dollar and a half each, to ride eight miles, into Santos. It was very dark, and some of the road very rough, but all got through safely.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether stopped at the hotel, while I assisted Mr. Jackson in taking the horses to a pasture at Mr. Wright’s; and getting supper we congratulated ourselves that the trip to Conceicão was ended.

FRIDAY, _December 8, 1865_.

Having spent the night with my friend Wright, I arose early and went to the Hotel Milan, where my comrades were quartered, finding Senor Street had returned from São Paulo. My telegram was received by him, but he stated that it would be impracticable for him to proceed through the country, and that Mr. N. Bennaton had gone to Rio de Janeiro, with the expectation of returning on the 11th inst. A letter was found here from him, proposing that we wait until he could join us, to make the tour from São Paulo through the country. But in view of all the facts we concluded to avail ourselves of the boat expected daily to proceed to Cananea; and after examining the lands adjacent to the Ribeira de Ignape, to return to this point, and go thence to São Paulo, to make the trip to the country lying between the Tieté river and the serra to the eastward.

We made a reconnoissance this morning of a lot of land in the city belonging to Commendador Ferreira, which he proposes to sell. It extends from the water at the lime-factory, in a solid oblong body, lying between two streets.

The measurement made by stepping was five hundred and fifty (550) yards in length and three hundred and fifteen (315) yards in breadth; with a portion of irregular shape not measured, extending to the water. For this it is understood that his price is ten thousand (10,000) dollars.

There is another portion of vacant land belonging to the same gentleman located between that described and the water street on the front of the city.

This measures four hundred (400) yards in length, two hundred and thirty (230) yards wide at one end, and one hundred (100) yards or thereabouts in width, at the other end. The breadth corresponds very nearly to the greater measurement through half of the lot, and then slopes to that of the smaller, making it somewhat irregular in shape. This has a water front with a street, which is bounded by a rock wall as a barrier to the tide, and here is afforded very desirable sites for building.

Should he be willing to include this with the sale of the other, it would make a very valuable property for those who may wish a city investment.