Part 24

The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.

We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.

The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.

We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.

The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.

Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.

In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.

Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.

SATURDAY, _December 23, 1865_.

Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.

Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in corn and cotton, with moderately good results.

In one instance, where the more fertile soil had been cleared and planted, the weeds and bushes had outgrown the corn, so as to lead to the abandonment of the crop; and it really looks as if the richness of the soil, which gives trouble to keep the land clear, becomes a reason for not cultivating it. There is a strange want of energy among the common people of this country; and whatever requires much labor, even to attain the best results, does not suit their habits.

In all this region, where coffee cannot be grown successfully, the planters are engaging in the culture of cotton, and with some there is quite a mania on the subject, so that breadstuffs are likely to be neglected as formerly with us.

We reached the iron-works at Epanema about 11 o’clock A. M., and the present superintendent, Senor Dom Joaquim de Sonsa Mursa, extended a cordial welcome to our party. His wife is a German lady, of fine appearance and much intelligence, who speaks English; and by her kind attention to our comfort made us feel quite at home. The large house was clean and neat in all its parts, and her table was very creditable to her skill as a housekeeper.

In looking around the old structures of this vast establishment for working iron, it is a matter of surprise that all should have been suffered to go to wreck. The gentleman who has now undertaken the restoration of the iron-works has a task imposed upon him which requires an energy and tact independent of scientific attainments; and there are practical difficulties which are not likely to be overcome while the place continues under the auspices of the Brazilian government.

There is a mountain of iron ore of superior quality which must furnish material to any desired extent for all future time. An inexhaustible supply of limestone is likewise near at hand to furnish the requisite flux, besides affording lime of an excellent quality. Sandstone is likewise found in abundance near the works, and is now being used to face the furnaces that are being refitted. In addition to these articles a quarry of slate or flagstone is located in close proximity.

There is also a large amount of good timber growing upon the mountain-slopes belonging to this property, which may be used for making charcoal to be employed in the furnaces.

The lands are of prime quality, being the best description of terra rocha upon the slopes adjacent to the vast reservoir of iron ore.

Under proper cultivation the soil here is suited to produce every thing to the best advantage; and would yield all the provisions that could be required by any number of operatives that would be necessary for the successful working of the place.

A number of negroes, most of whom are now very old, some cattle, and horses, and mules, belonging to the government, are here under the charge of Major Dias Albuquerque, who resides at the works, and has been the agent of the government for several years, simply keeping the property together without accomplishing any thing towards arresting the decay of buildings and machinery.

It is a magnificent ruin; and one feels like he had been transplanted to some vast relic of the ancients, to witness such immense resources lying in a state of entire disorder and neglect.

This place was put in operation more than fifty years ago, and at one time did a large business; but was subsequently discontinued, and some of the machinery was removed to be sent to another iron mine in the province of Matto-Grosso. This never reached its destination, and lies useless at some, point from which it is now impracticable to have it returned.

The site labors under a great difficulty in its isolated position and want of transportation. But the resources for producing the iron rail for a road would warrant the erection of a rolling-mill, to prepare the means of building a line of communication to some eligible point, and it would be well for some enterprising capitalists to seriously examine the advantages of a contract for these works, with a view to a permanent occupation.

In visiting the various points we were supplied with riding animals; and Mr. Bennaton will be furnished here with two mules of the government to expedite our farther exploration of the country.

SUNDAY, _December 24, 1865_.

All of us had comfortable quarters for the night, and Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether slept in a large bed, over which a crown was suspended, in which the Emperor slept upon the occasion of his visit to this establishment some years ago.

Being supplied with breakfast, consisting in part of fresh milk and butter of superior make, our party left Epanema at 7 o’clock this morning and rode twelve miles to Sorocaba.

The greater part of the route lies through campo lands of the dark red order, having a hard and dry-looking grass that is not eaten much by stock, and here and there a few clumps of trees known as camponia, such as are left in a rocky place of a field.

Upon reaching the town we were received at the house of Senor Coronel Manoel Lopez Oliveiro, to whom Mr. Auburtin had a letter from the President of the province. He was so much occupied with his cordial reception that he did not introduce the rest of us until requested to do so by Mr. Bennaton. So goes the world!

Mr. Auburtin being the honored guest, was assigned a suite of rooms alone; and the other four of us were quartered together in an apartment of the same size, but all were very comfortably provided for in every respect.

This gentleman is a man of large means, and has two cotton-gins with steam-power in the city, where he prepares for the market not only the yield of his own fazenda but a large amount purchased in the seed. He seems under some special obligation to Mr. Auburtin for introducing his cotton to favorable notice in England.

MONDAY, _December 25, 1865_.

The explosion of a few rockets, and the ringing of the church bells at midnight, in commemoration of the birth of our Saviour, is the only indication we have had here of Christmas. The only thing to attract attention is the suspension of the ordinary avocation of life, and every one seems to wear rather a serious aspect, than to indulge in any hilarity or festivities on the occasion.

We walked out before breakfast to deliver some letters of introduction to parties in the town, but none of them were found, excepting Dom Oliveiro, who treated us very courteously, and tendered us any assistance in his power. We called also upon Senor Carlos Tolemei, who manifested great readiness to aid us, inviting all to his house to-night. Coffee had been served before going out, and we did not get breakfast until ten o’clock, which was accompanied by tea and cakes, as has been done at some other places, instead of coffee and milk.

We all rode out with Colonel Lopez to-day, to visit his plantation, and found cotton, corn and beans, all growing together upon the same ground. There is no regard for rows in planting any of these articles, and the stand of cotton is in some parts a little deficient, but in the main average; the growth is good, and the number of bolls upon the advanced portion is large. Some of the cotton has been planted this season, but another portion has been cut off from the growth of last season, and is springing up again very luxuriantly. The crop gives evidence of good culture with the hoe, and is quite free from grass or weeds, but the cotton must suffer by mixture with corn and beans. The soil, is dark and loose, with an admixture of large gravel, making it very liable to wash, and hence the absence of the plough in its culture is rather advantageous than otherwise, and more especially as there are many steep hills under cultivation. This land corresponds more to some of the cotton lands of the up-country in Georgia than any territory I have seen in Brazil.

Senor Carlos rode out with us, and invited the party to visit his cotton-gin, moved by water-power, a few miles from town, but time did not permit. Besides these, there is also a cotton-gin in the town moved by steam, which is owned by Senor Machado.

We were visited this afternoon by Dom Oliveiro, Dom Americo, Delegado of Police, and Municipal Judge, and Senor José Leite Pintead, who proposed that we should remain for an entertainment by the citizens, but our motto being “duty before pleasure,” it could not be accepted.

Dr. Vas, of Campinas, called also to see us, being here on a trip of recreation. He informs me that Settequéda has gone to Jahu, to purchase a fazenda in that section, which is the first point of our exploration of those lands.

The visit to the house of Senor Carlos was enjoyed by all very much. His wife performs skilfully on the piano, and he sings admirably well. Beer and champagne were served with other refreshments.

Sorocaba contains about five thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a great mart for mules, there being eighty thousand sold here in a single season. It is very healthy, and there is but one physician in the entire district to meet all the needs of the people.

The city is located upon the Rio Sorocaba, from which it doubtless derives its name.

There is a factory here of fancy whips, that is somewhat famous throughout the province, and many of the ladies receive presents of Sorocaba riding-whips from those who wish to pay them a compliment. The structure of the whip is most elaborate, being plated with material of different colors, and a part of the larger end interwoven with fine pieces of the quills of the porcupine. The butt of the whip is covered with silver, and has a silver chain with some ornament attached to it, while there are two or three bands of silver on the stock.

At the same place will be found also fancy bridles, trimmed with silver; belts of most fantastic style; girth of rare patterns; cruppers of every variety, and saddle cloths, which are intended to be very ornamental on the animal.

To appreciate the importance of this class of articles, it is requisite to understand that many people here lay great stress upon their outfit for riding, and the style differs materially from that which we have been accustomed to see. The bridles are made in this establishment by platting a number of thongs of raw-hide into a flat or round form, which constitute the headstall and reins of the bridle, with sundry silver rings at different points of each.

Where the reins unite at the hand there are two rings, secured together by a small strap, and from each of these extends loose ends of some two feet in length, which may be used for whipping or for securing the animal. Martingales are very seldom used in this country.

TUESDAY, _December 26, 1865_.

Having exhausted the resources of the place by our observations, we left Sorocaba at eight o’clock this morning, after being supplied with a cup of coffee and some biscuits by our host.

Our passage through dreary campo lands for three leagues (twelve miles) brought us to Campo Largo, which is a very comely little village of the mud-built type. Proceeding from this some miles, we began to observe the slopes on our right under cultivation, with a number of neat settlements along the lower part of the hills, which continued for a considerable distance on our course.

The rain fell heavily at one time, but we had the good fortune to have a house for protection, having stopped to examine some mules.

We stopped for the night at Capello de Alto, and soon found that a pile of pea vines had to be our bed, while there were no knives and forks to eat with. A can of my tomatoes assisted in making out the grub, and with collards, beans, farina and stewed chicken, we made a very substantial repast, this being the only meal of the day.

My blanket and pillow, which had been of little use heretofore, came now into requisition, and the others used their overcoats for bedding.

The proprietor of this establishment was evidently well satisfied with the outfit of his house, and we all thought him the most independent-looking personage we had met. He was attired in white cotton pants or drawers, with a short shirt of the same material outside. Having a large goatee, and long, uncombed hair, he cut a figure.

WEDNESDAY, _December 27, 1865_.

With the conviction that we could not fare worse elsewhere, we made an early move from Capella de Alto, hoping to find a place for breakfast within ten or twelve miles. But there was no suitable place to stop until we reached Lamberi, sixteen miles distant, and having rode very slowly, we got nothing to eat until two o’clock P. M.

Our road to-day lay through a hilly country, and though the soil was for the most part thin, there was some very fair farming land. In several places there were campos of waste land, growing only a rough grass and the scrubby palm.

Quite a number of the native men of the country were seen about the ranchos on the roadside, and the recruiting officers might find a good harvest in this region. Many of the older men, and most of the women, were affected with the goitre, that swelling of the glands of the neck which is prevalent in the proximity of most of the serras. We observed also, as we approached this place, quite a number of persons laboring under the leprosy (Morfea) posted on the roadside, to ask alms of those passing.

This miserable condition is a disease of the skin and other tissues, which is supposed to result from the climate in connection with improper diet; and is complicated in some instances with syphilis, or other degenerated states of the system. The treatment of it has not heretofore been attended with satisfactory results, but I learn that a vine has been discovered which cures this terrible malady, and the efficacy of this treatment will ere long be fully tested.

The subjects of this disorder are excluded from all association with other persons, and are often found in tents or rude huts, in some isolated spot, near the thoroughfares, so that they may gather a small pittance from travellers, to purchase the means of subsistence. They seem very grateful for even the smallest amount that may be given, and we have usually thrown them a few dumps, but there was none in hand to-day.

This being my forty-first birthday, I find myself at the middle period of life with a crisis in my affairs which must influence the future of myself and family very materially. To commence the world as it were anew with six young children involves great responsibility to my wife and myself; but I trust that all may be accomplished for our mutual welfare and comfort, by the issue of my present investigations in this county.

The past is to be separated from the future with more distinctness than any other periods of my existence have been, not only by the change of events but by the alterations of our social relations; and the rending of old ties and establishing of new associations makes the prospective change of location a very serious consideration.

The circumstances in which we will be placed may not admit of those advantages in rearing and educating our children which they would have enjoyed under a different order of things; and I realize that many duties as a man and parent devolve upon me now that differ much from those of former years.

But being imbued with a deep-rooted sentiment of self-reliance, it is still my privilege to exercise those energies of body and those faculties of mind which God has given me, for promoting the welfare of those dependent upon me.

THURSDAY, _December 28, 1865_.

Having taken a cup of coffee at the inn of mine host, Captain Marianno, we set out at 5 o’clock this morning, and after a ride of twelve miles over hills and plains, we reached the town of Itapetininga.[26] The first four miles lay through an irregular matto, with numerous very steep hills; but the remaining eight miles were through campos of gently undulating lands. Upon these there were several groups of horses and a few herds of cattle, but neither presented an appearance that would recommend this region for stock-raising.

We stopped with Senor Lenente Coronel Manoel Affonso Pereira Chaves, and though plain in his garb and manner, we were made to realize that we were heartily welcomed, while he exhibited an intelligence and general acquaintance with this region which promises to be very useful to us.

Upon conferring with a French engineer named Prudent, who has been employed by the government in constructing a road from this place to Sette Barros, on the Ribeira de Ignape, Mr. Bennaton concluded this route would be impracticable, and determined to proceed to Paranapanema. All the roads across the serra leading to the river are said to be in very bad order, but it being the business of this engineer to put this road in good order, it would be well for the authorities to investigate the cause of failure, and perhaps it would be found that another man would be more faithful to his charge.

The people here partake generally of the mental and physical characteristics of the country, and there is very little taste displayed in their dwellings or other houses.

A new theatre, which is not yet completed, is by far the neatest structure in the town, while the church is ready to tumble down from age and decay.

The plan of the place is similar to most of those seen, having a central open space near the church, and the streets laid off elsewhere at right angles and not usually more than thirty feet wide.

Most of the houses have but a single story, yet there are some exceptions, and our host has quite a large two-story residence, which, however, is not yet completed. Senor Chaves has presented me with a history of the province of São Paulo, for which I feel very thankful; and it will be made one of my text-books in learning the Portuguese language.

There is a stream of water on one side of the town upon which there is a saw-mill, and a cotton-gin is soon to be in operation also at the same place.

Notwithstanding this facility for water-power, we witnessed the stupendous folly of a small cotton-gin with eighteen saws in operation by the force of a treadmill, worked by the leg-power of men; and a screw was also seen at the same place worked by manual force of these bipeds.