Part 7

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not likely to become a pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.

A few small patches of coffee tree were seen near the village which seemed in a thriving condition, and indicated a yield far beyond what might have been anticipated from the appearance of the soil. A change, however, in the land, seems to commence near this place, and it assumes here very much the aspect of red clay, but in some parts the sandy soil predominating, and all lying very irregular, except immediately upon the streams.

I was impressed with the adaptation of the Jundiahi river, a small stream which runs near our inn, for the location of machinery of limited water-power; and when the railroad reaches this place a good mill or cotton ginning establishment would be likely to prove very advantageous on this river. The fall is not very great, but could be arranged so as to afford all requisite power for this or some similar purpose.

Our quarters were so infested with fleas that I found it necessary to rise in the night and denude myself, so as to remove those that might be in my clothing. After this I returned naked to bed, and wrapping up in the sheet closely there was no further annoyance. This was an experiment with me, and it succeeded so well that I commend it to others when they may be thus unfavorably situated. The dirt floors of this house, and the swine around the doors, presented this nuisance; while our bedding and the outfit of the apartments were in very comfortable order, and clean.

At this point we overtook our camarada and pack-mules, which had been sent ahead of us. Getting a change of clothing from our baggage, the camarada was again sent in advance, so that his mules would not be required to travel as fast as we would ride. The train now consists of eight animals, and the mule upon which I am mounted makes nine, which is rather more than would be desirable to move together. Our baggage trains, consisting of four mules, two belonging to the camarada, and two of the government stock, which are very poor and weak, requires to move slowly, and can take more time by going forward while we stop, either for repose, or the examination of places of interest during the afternoon.

WEDNESDAY, _October 4, 1865_.

Moving off this morning at 8 o’clock, we proceeded about fourteen miles, and halted at the house of a German for two hours. This man had originally come into the country as a colonist of the government, and getting a little means had bought this place, paying fifteen hundred ($1500) dollars, for three hundred acres, with a dwelling and other improvements. Here the soil is evidently better than that below Jundiahi, and seems to be well adapted to the growth of corn and cotton. I saw here a specimen of the lint of the pina tree, which is a beautiful, silky-looking fibre, as white as cotton, and when mixed with it makes a beautiful fabric; but it has not strength of fibre when used alone to give proper texture to cloth. The pod is large and spherical, growing upon a tree which is very large and tall, and though the yield is generally abundant, the difficulty of procuring the lint is so great that very little is gathered. Eventually the pods fall to pieces upon the trees, and this fine silky cotton is blown broadcast through the forests. We got at this house a very good meal, consisting of Irish potatoes, corn bread, beans, farina, spare ribs, fried eggs, with a dessert of honey and sweet milk. Coffee was also served after dinner, as is the custom everywhere in the country, but I declined it, as all my available capacity was preoccupied by other things. After leaving this place, and proceeding towards Campinas, we began to see the successful culture of the coffee. The extensive plantations, extending with the greatest regularity as far as the eye could reach, presented a most attractive feature after passing the dreary waste for two previous days.

We saw at a point within two miles of Campinas some negroes engaged in loading a huge oxcart with the crude berries of the coffee, from an immense pile that had been gathered from the trees growing along the side of the road. The ground under the trees is raked clean preparatory to stripping the berries with the hand, and an immense broad flat receptacle made of the bamboo cane is placed under each tree, but what fails to fall in this is easily swept up from the smooth earth into a pile, and then taken up and put into the receptacle. These are emptied into piles convenient to the road, from which the coffee is hauled to the drying-yard, where it is spread out and watched carefully to guard it against rain. When dried it is submitted to a process for taking off the hull, and then fanned to clean it more thoroughly, or even by some submitted to cleansing by washing.

Having turned off from the main road to Campinas, we were accommodated with quarters at the antiquated-looking fazenda of Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, who resides in São Paulo, and gave us a letter to his administrator at this place, with the expectation that we would stop here a few days.

After being shown around the premises, Mr. Bennaton and I walked through the back yard into the grove of orange trees in the garden, where we found only bitter sweets that were not desirable to eat. When we returned the old administrator (another word for overseer) expressed himself as not being satisfied with our going into the back yard without notifying him, and there being two single daughters on the premises was doubtless the cause of his concern about our visit. All these people, who have not been in contact with the outside world, think it a solemn duty to keep their females in great seclusion. It may be that this old fellow was afraid we might get a peep at the girls, while perambulating his back yard. They have not however been seen as yet, and, unless affording a remarkable contrast to the appearance of their father, it is not likely they will afford much attraction to the gaze of the curious. With every thing about the house of plain style, we are very comfortably fixed, with a large airy room, and two sleeping-apartments.

The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches, that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee, and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand, after which another drying process completes the preparations for market.

I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo, and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary exemplification of the mechanical adaptation of means to an end; but I could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam, which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.

The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water, renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would beat dough finely.

THURSDAY, _October 5, 1865_.

Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture and plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named. Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my anticipations.

Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined, there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me to feel easy in his presence.

He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant, but courtesy demanded that something be taken.

The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully; but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor. These are also neatly furnished.

A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also at hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more invigorating.

A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and, apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most tasteful style.

The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country, is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room. Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much. Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any difficulty.

After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty years, it is found to be important to their production that the land should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to enrich it.

There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from transplanting.

A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.

This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is practicable, and all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the culture of this country.

The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year, standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.

Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough, which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few years.

The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it is to be encountered.

The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality which has been under cultivation, but is thrown out to rest and recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it continues to be productive.

My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to get information as to the different qualities of soil and their productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a judicious selection of territory for my friends.

At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth. The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue. It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative work by cabinet makers.

The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which has just been completed in the most elaborate style.

A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the axle with the other portions of the wagon or cart is not usually lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary accompaniment to their carts.

At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was repealed.

Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some four or five hundred yards off.

Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in social intercourse.