Part 5

In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the _Anglo-Brazilian Times_ as voyaging through the country.

SATURDAY, _September 23, 1865_.

Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in advance of the regular hour.

All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses, the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M., and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for the bandboxes also.

At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot; yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles. He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.

The steep ascent of this mountain side is made by a zigzag road, which is cut from the slopes of the cliffs, and paved with stones. At some places there are precipices descending suddenly from the edge of the road to great depths, so as to make the traveller feel serious apprehensions for his passage along the rather narrow track of the road. I was told that mules have been sometimes forced over these abrupt edges into the awful gorge beneath, from the crowding of a large number into these narrow places, and their utter destruction is of course inevitable. There has been no instance, however, of any accident to the diligencia, which run this route from day to day; and hence a sort of guarantee of safety is afforded by this mode of conveyance, which is not felt upon the newly-constructed railroad line, which ascends the serra by inclined planes and stationary engines.

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge, to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain, which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath, with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those which were passed after getting into the diligence, it is a fair estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas ($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way from Santos to São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica, which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are particularly destructive.[10]

Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden. With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body, and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia, and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr. Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them was found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment, and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late hours to suit my taste.

SUNDAY, _September 24, 1865_.

The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several years at school in Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit, and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.[11]

MONDAY, _September 25, 1865_.

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from this source, and accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar, who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that might render me service until my baggage should arrive by the cart of the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving, Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department, and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together by kindred feelings, as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords, and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house was open to me at all times.

TUESDAY, _September 26, 1865_.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton; when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience, that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit; and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed; and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr. Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons. Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.