Part 10

We were shown here a plan of the lands belonging to this fazenda, which had been executed by the above-named engineer. It displays all the different kinds of soil, with the distinction of growth upon each; the campo lands having a very scanty and scrubby growth, the matto virgem being covered with the large original forest trees, and the capoeira with small trees that have sprung up on land which was formerly under cultivation. It is a large colored map, evidently made with great care, after a regular survey of the premises, made by contract with the proprietor.

After breakfast we rode out to take an extended view of the lands under cultivation, and the woodlands that lay convenient for observation. On the way, we passed the houses occupied by the colonists employed on this place, and I counted twenty-four double houses, making forty-eight tenements, for the separate families. Each family has a piece of ground attached to the house, or located at a convenient distance, so that corn and vegetables may be grown for their own use.

The contract with the proprietor only requires their services in gathering coffee from the trees, and for this labor they are paid what is considered to be one-half the value of the crude berries that are gathered. The estimate placed upon an alqueric—corresponding to our bushel—of the crude coffee berries, is seventy-five cents; and unless the crop is good, ordinary hands do not gather more than two bushels per day. Yet when the trees are very full, and the person is industrious and skilful, from five to eight bushels may be gathered in one day.

The lands planted in coffee at this place are not of the best quality, and yet the crop seems to have been fair, judging from those trees which have not yet been gathered.

The corn and beans being but little above the ground, no estimate can be formed as to what the crop may be; and the same in regard to rice which has been planted. But the general impression received from riding through the plantation was not particularly favorable to its fertility, nor does the ground lie favorably for cultivation.

We rode through a large body of woodland, which gave indications of a fair quality of soil, and lay very advantageously for cultivation. Yet it is not of that purple aspect which characterizes the best soil; and I do not see upon this place any of the terra rocha which abounds at Ybicaba. I was led to infer that this was perhaps the most favorable view which could be taken of the premises, as my proposition to traverse the territory in another direction, in the afternoon, did not meet the acquiescence of Senor Vergueiro, and yet he proposes to sell a part or the whole of this extensive tract of land. He does not make known his terms, and I don’t think that any portion of the vast area of this fazenda fulfils the conditions for a desirable settlement.

Captain Carvalho, an old gentleman of sixty-five years of age, is the administrator at Angelica; and seems to be treated with much respect by the proprietor. He is regarded as the best authority respecting persons or places within twenty miles of this fazenda, and has rendered us important service in these respects. His wife is a young, hale, buxom woman, who looks as if she might welcome another husband at the demise of this frail old man. She did not take a seat at the table with us, nor did she make her appearance often in the room. The women of this medium class of people have not usually presented themselves when we have visited their houses, nor are they ever seen at the table during meals.

I wrote a long communication from this place for the information of my friends, which was sent to my wife, along with a private letter to her.

THURSDAY, _October 12, 1865_.

Having secured a guide for the various parts of the country which we expected to visit, we left Angelica this morning, and came a distance of twelve miles to the fazenda of Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo. A letter from him was given to his administrator, Senor Antonio, who seemed at the outset to be at a loss what disposition to make of us and our rather large retinue. Ere long, however, we got into the house, and our baggage being brought in, he gave directions for the care of the stock. We soon found, also, that arrangements were in a state of progress for giving us dinner, which proved to be a good substantial meal.

In the afternoon he conducted us to a portion of woodland, also to a field planted recently with coffee trees, and having a crop of corn and beans interspersed with it.

I was surprised to find this soil very superior to that about the location of the building, and was impressed with the importance of making a thorough investigation of the adjacent territory. We went in a southeasterly direction to the foot of the serra, through a virgin forest of three miles in extent, and most of the growth indicated fruitfulness of the soil. At this point, the land under cultivation presented a good appearance, and the old corn-stalks showed a good result for the past year. There was also between this and the woods some open pasture, which had a fine crop of grass, and we suggested that our animals be sent here to graze, while we should be furnished from the fazenda for to-morrow’s ride.

FRIDAY, _October 13, 1865_.

Mounted upon the plantation-mules, we rode at an early hour with Senor Antonio to visit the plantation, which runs along the foot of the serra, in an easterly direction from the site of the houses. The coffee trees were the chief objects of interest, and presented the aspect of vigorous development. Most of them had been stripped entirely or partially, and no correct opinion could be formed as to their yield from the statements of the man in charge.

A small piece of land had been planted last year in cotton, and the stalks, which had been cut off preparatory to another crop, indicated only a moderate development. There was a considerable extent of ground open for pasture that lay favorably for cultivation, and from the size of the old, deadened trees still standing upon it, the prospect would be good for a yield of cotton.

Within a half-mile from the foot of the serra, for more than a mile in length, the soil was of a reddish aspect, with a considerable proportion of sand, and as it receded beyond this distance from the serra, the increase of sand was such as to render the soil unproductive.

In all directions around the houses of this fazenda a barren campo extends to a considerable distance, and the land is not even suitable for pasture, as the grass which grows upon it is not eaten by the horses or cows to any extent, nor does it prove nutritious.

After returning from this visit to the coffee field, we were joined by Major Manuel Reginaldo de Morars Salles, who breakfasted with us, and then showed us another extensive portion of the lands. Taking the main road towards the southeast, upon which we started yesterday evening, we continued upon it, as the boundary of the land, for two miles.

Though the trees growing along this line, for more than a mile from the point of divergence yesterday evening, were large and numerous, yet the sand predominated in an increasing ratio, rendering the soil of little value. We then travelled for three miles through a barren campo, constituting the border of the tract, when a virgin forest was entered, through which we rode about half a mile into the better quality of land near the serra. Here the land was productive, but was very irregular, and liable to wash under cultivation, as there was more or less sand mixed with it. We did not find here, as at the northern portion of the serra, that dark red soil which always has more solidity than the sandy soil, and, hence, less liability to wash away by the rains.

From this point we emerged, on a different line from that by which we entered, and soon encountered a sterile region following round the border of the tract for a mile, through a complete waste of sandy campo land.

We at length came to a considerable stream, upon which there is an advantageous site for machinery, and were the better quality of lands near this point, the facility for securing this fine water-power would constitute quite a recommendation to the place. But the desirable lands are all at some miles distance, and a very bad route for the construction of roads from them to this point. We encountered at a house here a grove of delicious oranges, upon which we all feasted to our utmost capacity.

Reviewing the impressions of yesterday evening and to-day, I would conjecture that this body of land extends about six miles in length from northwest to southeast, and that its average width from the serra was two and a half miles, making nine thousand and six hundred acres of land. Of this, I would consider one-third as utterly worthless, and another third as only suited for pasturage, while the remaining three thousand and two hundred acres is good land, and lies advantageously for cultivation.

The administrator stated that there were seventy thousand (70,000) coffee trees bearing fruit, and twenty thousand (20,000) trees which have been planted at different times within the past two years, while there are ten thousand (10,000) plants recently set out. Of course, the value of the property is increased by the growth of these coffee trees, as every tree bearing fruit makes an annual income, and the estimated value of each plant when it commences to yield is twenty cents.

The territory over which we have passed has many small streams of water convenient to the different sections of the land, and the water was clear and pleasant to drink.

The land under cultivation lies in two separate localities, and yet both near the serra. The most elevated grounds in this country seem to be the most fertile, having, in the best localities, a dark red loamy soil; while the level lands, either in low flats or in plateaus, are composed largely of sand, and have little adaptation to agricultural purposes. The chief growth upon the campos are a harsh grass and a wild fern, with here and there a few scrubby trees of small size.[15]

SATURDAY, _October 14, 1865_.

We arose at daylight this morning and getting a cup of coffee rode five miles through campo lands, to the Rio Roque, (River Rock.) At the point visited another small stream, with a five-mile site, runs into this river; and should any one locate near this place it would be available for machinery requiring but little water-power.

Senor Antonio Rodriguez Foone, the administrator, who was specially charged with the duty of showing us these lands, referred to an old woman living in a house near by, and was told by her that the lands beyond the Rio Roque belonged to the property; and as he supposed the property extended up the western side, we preferred to explore this without crossing the river. We rode up for nearly a mile, and found that the nature of the soil and the configuration of the surface were very well adapted for cultivation. The timber upon it is large, and much of it having a long, straight trunk, which would adapt it admirably for building. The soil near the road is of that dark red loamy order which is considered the most productive in the country. This taken in connection with the more elevated woodlands lying on the opposite side of the stream, would form a good settlement for several families, and the general aspects are favorable for health.

After returning from this visit we passed through a body of land lying in a southwest course from the buildings, and about one mile distant. It lies very favorably, and is evidently superior to most of the lands on this place. The soil is that dark red loam which constitutes terra rocha, and the timber is much the same as that of the land described upon the Roque. If there is any considerable extent of these lands they would form an offset to the larger proportion of worthless land belonging to this fazenda. On this point, as on others connected with dimensions, our guide could give me no information, so that I am left to the broad domain of surmise.

In forming an approximate estimate of the lands traversed this morning, I am without any other criterion than the probabilities based upon what I saw and what Senor Antonio supposed to be the outline of the fazenda.

The figures used in my calculation for the other portion of the land will correspond very well to my ideas of the extent of territory here, and we may say it is six miles long by two and a half miles wide, making nine thousand six hundred acres. The land previously spoken of lies westward and northward from the houses, and making a line from the southern end of the serra across by the buildings to the boundary, leaves all the land south and east to be included in the observation of this morning.

This entire area does not perhaps contain over two thousand acres of productive land,[16] and the rest is of a quality that cannot be made available for any practical object, save it might be for a glass factory, from the immense beds of sand accumulated on this barren waste.

We left Morro Grande, the fazenda of Senor João, and went twenty miles northwest to the house of Captain Feliciana.

SUNDAY, _October 15, 1865_.

Having enjoyed the plain and substantial hospitality of our old friend the Capitão, as men who are hungry and tired always do, we saw no reason for detention during the day, and set out at an early hour, accompanied by our host, to the fazenda of Senor Dom Francisco Antonio de Sonza Queiroz.

A dignified and yet courteous reception was soon followed by the assignment to very comfortable quarters, and the furnishing of a most excellent breakfast.

His own wife, and the wife of Senor Dom Francisco Aguiar de Barros, graced the table with their presence; and the style of every thing indicated the refinement and elegance of the families. The gentlemen were so situated at the table as to separate their wives from the guests, which seems to be one of the relics of the olden times that clings to the people of the best class.

These two gentlemen own lands adjoining each other, and both having recently opened up their fazendas, Dom Barros has not yet got his buildings arranged for his residence; and his wife being a sister of Dom Queiroz the families are living together.

Every thing about the establishment is conducted with much neatness and good taste; and the dinner table, with its rich service of silver and variety of dishes, had an air of completeness that would do credit to any society. Our tea-table, also, was a type of the best order of things; and, though the ladies left before the retiring of the gentlemen, it must have been a great relief to get away when not partaking in the conversation. With this class of people tea is not served until half-past eight o’clock; and after the table is cleared the party sit around and chat until the hour of retiring for the night. When a social group are thrown with one another at tea, this is doubtless very pleasant; but not understanding much that was said on the part of others, and disliking to call upon Mr. Bennaton to interpret commonplace remarks either from myself or others, I found this tarrying around the tea-table quite a patience-trying ordeal.

I observe here, as elsewhere, that there is a long, slim pole erected in the front yard, with an emblem of some saint on a piece of cloth in a frame, attached to the top of the pole. They are called saint-poles, and the figure is changed in commemoration of each particular saint’s day.

At every house that has been passed or visited, without distinction of the class of people, where Roman Catholics reside, this emblem of their faith is to be seen. Though the figures are usually of the most uncouth aspect and clumsy execution, it is supposed that holy associations cling around them, and they are retained even when tattered and defaced by the elements.

In connection with this it is particularly becoming to refer to the habit among the negroes, which has attracted my attention at several of the fazendas, and which was observed here this evening. After the forming of all in a line, for the purpose of counting them at night, they repaired to the rear apartment of the building, occupied by the family, and all kneeling down they rehearsed a religious service, in which they were lead by one of their number. After this all retired to their respective lodgings for the night.

I observed that a similar proceeding was conducted in the yard where the negroes were mustered or formed into line, at the fazenda of Senor João Robiero de Santos Carmargo, and it is doubtless a part of the routine whenever any considerable number of negroes are collected.

Were it really a service of the heart, and not a mere outward ceremony, there would be an appropriateness and impressive solemnity in thus looking to God for his blessing at the close of the day’s labor.

But while a few of the number may have some sense of reverence for God associated with this daily observance, it is evident that the greater part join in it as a mere matter of routine.

The mustering and counting of the negroes at night is usually done in front of the residence of the owner, and he thus has the assurance that all are present. I learn that the habit of running away is not uncommon here, and at some places the sound of the shackles has been heard when the negroes were assembled, though nothing of the kind was brought to my attention in this establishment.

In some instances the shackles are put on their ankles only at night to keep them in their quarters, while in others they are kept on while at work as a matter of punishment, and I saw at one fazenda a very old woman with shackles on her ankles while she was employed in stirring the coffee that was drying. She had been guilty of poisoning other negroes, and was regarded as a very dangerous person to go at large.

My observation of slavery in this country leads me to the conclusion that the exactions from the negro are greater, and the provision for his subsistence and comfort less than was experienced formerly in the United States.

MONDAY, _October 16, 1865_.

After a pleasant rest for the night, we were regaled this morning before rising with a most excellent cup of coffee, which, it will be observed, is a part of the hospitality in every well-regulated household.

In due course of time our breakfast came, and, along with other articles, we enjoyed “Café corn leite” and excellent corn bread, made of fine meal.

This “Café corn leite” is prepared by boiling the milk with the coffee, and is so great an improvement upon the simple mixture of milk or cream with coffee that it ought to be resorted to generally by our people who are fond of this combination for breakfast.

Being supplied with horses by our host, we rode out with him to see his newly-opened plantation, called Fazenda Nova, passing in our route the site he has selected for building upon, whenever time is allowed for erecting a family residence. His brickyard and saw-mill are in successful operation, and the latter is a well-arranged perpendicular saw, that performs admirably, even in the hard material of the timber in all this country.

I have as yet seen no instance of a circular saw in operation here, and it certainly would be better adapted to the compact and hard wood which has to be encountered in sawing.

The coffee trees on this place have all been set out within the past two years, and some of them have been planted very recently. In all there are one hundred and forty thousand, and the number is still to be extended.

The lands under cultivation are, for the most part, elevated, and of the dark red terra rocha, being of very superior quality for the coffee.

We visited also the newly-opened fazenda[17] of Senor Dom Barros, and I there had the opportunity of witnessing the burning of a “roça,” or new ground, of twelve acres, upon which the timber had been simply felled and partially dried. The land being scraped around to prevent extension of the fire, all the negroes were posted at regular intervals to guard the progress of the conflagration, and the fallen timber was then fired in various places.

It was an interesting sight, as illustrating the custom of all the planters in Brazil for preparing their lands to receive the seed for the first time; and, with the heat of a boiling sun, in addition to the heat of the fire, I found that “distance lends enchantment to the view.”

In riding through the sun to-day I was more affected by its heat than at any time previously, and though it may look something like adopting the doctrine of “Similia similibus curantur,” I resorted to the use of strong coffee, with decidedly good result. At the new structure of Senor Barros we found excellent coffee prepared for us, and with a sense of depression from my exposure to the hot sun, I drank two cups of the ordinary size in the United States, which relieved me greatly; and, upon going out again, I did not experience so much inconvenience from the heat, though the sun was beaming down its rays with even greater intensity than before. This stimulant evidently lessened the influence of the sun.

The thermometer stands to-night at 80° Fahrenheit, and was doubtless 90° at two o’clock P. M., as it is very sensibly cooler since the sun disappeared, while a pleasant breeze always fans the earth at night.

Some valuable information was received from Dom Queiroz to-day, in regard to the employment by contract, of men having negroes under their control, from the province of Minas. These negroes have been heretofore employed upon coffee estates which have ceased to be profitable in that section, and the owners are sending them to this comparatively new region, under responsible overseers, to contract with the landowners for their labor. They go into the virgin forest, clear it up after the style of the country, and plant young coffee trees furnished by the landowner, which are to be cared for, and the intervening space of land cultivated on their own account during four years; at the end of which time, the field is turned over to the owner, with the coffee trees yielding fruit.