Part 32

TITLE 1 INTRODUCTION 3 Hunting a Home in Brazil 5 Temperature approaching Rio 6 Harbor Defences 7 Examination of Passports 8 Entrance into the City 9 The Streets of Rio 10 Mules and Equipages 11 Omnibuses—Negroes—Ferry Boats 12 Post-Office Regulations 13 American Acquaintances 14 City Improvement Company 15 Gas-Lights of City 16 Custom-House Business 17 Negro Carriers 18 Dinner at a Restaurant 19 Brazilian and other Ladies 20 Amusements 21 Inducements for Immigration 22 Representations as to Southern People 23 Information from American Residents 24 Bay of Paranagua 25 Visit to Museum 26 Curiosities 27 Visit to Museum 28 Curiosities 29 Trip to the Suburbs 30 English Church Service 31 Disregard of the Sabbath 32 Audience with Minister of State 33 Call upon Mr. Crenshaw 34 Stroll in Fashionable Street 35 Dress—Umbrellas 36 The Ferry 37 Signal Telegraph 38 Public Buildings 39 Statue of Dom Pedro I 40 Interview with Minister of Agriculture 41 Facilities for Prospecting 42 Necessary Arrangements 43 Large Slaughter-House 44 Departure for Santos 45 Custom at Meals 46 Instruction in Portuguese 47 Use of Cigarettes 48 Fort and City of Santos 49 Visit to Mr. Wright’s Family 50 A Country Ride 51 Coffee Plantation 52 Advantages of Santos 53 Ride in Diligence 54 An Enchanting View 55 Railroad Wanted 56 Ant-Hills 57 Ancient Carriage 58 Letter to Mr. Sampson 59 Brazilian Newspaper Article 60 An Offer of Land 61 President of Province 62 Friendly Assistance 63 Rev. Mr. Blackford 64 Our Interpreter 65 Hospitality of Friends 66 Family Worship 67 Elegant Bath-house 68 Visit to Law School 69 Outfit for our Trip 70 Preparations Completed 71 Catholic and Protestant Cemeteries 72 Brick-Yards 73 Presbyterian Service in Portuguese 74 Religious Toleration Anticipated 75 Set out with Interpreter 76 Tunnel at Cachoeira 77 Railroad to Jundiahi 78 Surroundings of Jundiahi 79 Lint of Pina Tree 80 Coffee Culture near Campinas 81 Simple Mode of Cleaning Coffee 82 The “Monjolo” 83 Visit to an Elegant Establishment 84 Dining-Room 85 Ride to Fazenda—Remarks 86 Management of Coffee and Corn 87 Varieties of Timber 88 Machinery of “Settequéda” 89 Despolpidor for Coffee 90 Fanning Machinery 91 Process Similar to Rice Cleaning 92 Meeting with a Brazilian Physician 93 No Introduction between Strangers 94 The “Chigre” 95 Specimens of Carving 96 Female Apparel 97 Outfit of Camarada 98 Pleasant Weather 99 Plateau Land 100 A Magnificent Fazenda 101 European Colony 102 Coffee-Cleaning Establishment 103 Steam Saw-Mill 104 Extensive Coffee Plantation 105 Cotton Culture 106 Advantages of Brazil 107 Large Trees—Rich Soil 108 Cotton of a Fine Quality 109 Early Marriages 110 Reception at Rio Claro 111 Long Mill-Race 112 Senor Vergueiro’s Fazenda 113 Land of Inferior Quality 114 Seclusion of Women 115 Medium Coffee and Cotton 116 Barren Campo—Sterile Region 117 Numerous Coffee Trees 118 Early Ride to River Rock 119 Proposal of Sale of Lands 120 Elegant Hospitality 121 Saint-Poles—Negro Ceremonies 122 Use of Shackles for Slaves 123 Burning off Lands 124 Contracts with Negro Agents 125 The Contract System 126 How it Operates 127 Extensive Lands for Sale 128 Advantageous Site for a Village 129 Parting from Friends 130 Scarcity of Corn 131 Recently-Opened Fazenda 132 Varieties of Fruit 133 Clothing of Negroes 134 Fertile Lands—Water-Fall 135 Lands in Market 136 Villa of Araraquara 137 Reception at São Lorenço 138 Clarifying Sugar 139 Large Profits from Sugar 140 Medicine—Apothecary 141 Hunt on Sunday 142 A Friend in Need 143 Studying Portuguese 144 Richest Lands not Best for Cotton 145 Large Stock-Farm 146 Native Cows not Good for Milking 147 Lands on Rio Jacaré 148 Lightning-Bugs 149 Large Yield of Cotton 150 Join General Wood’s Party 151 Address of Welcome 152 Reply by Dr. Gaston 153 Extensive Fazendas for Sale 154 Lands of Serra of Good Quality 155 The Macucu—Droves of Cattle 156 Map of Lands near Araraquara 157 Sumptuous Entertainment 158 Oranges for Wine 159 Absence of Requisites for a City 160 Woodlands of Lageado 161 The Ant-Eater 162 Embarrassing Situation 163 Reception at Brotas 164 Hospitality of its Citizens 165 Singular Road-Guide 166 A Hungry Party 167 Latin Terms in Medicine 168 Anniversary of Marriage 169 Thoughts of Home 170 Apprehension for Welfare of Family 171 Assistance to Guest in Mounting 172 Dwelling and Kitchen Together 173 The Ligarto 174 Quality of Land on Rio Jahu 175 Neat Fencing 176 Navigation of River Tieté 177 Accommodations for Sleeping 178 Lands between Rio Jacaré and Tieté 179 Climbing a Tree under Difficulties 180 Valuation of Land in Different Sections 181 Brood Mares and Colts 182 Healthfulness of Country 183 Preparation for Feast of Holy Ghost 184 Correspondence with a Warm Friend 185 Personal Appreciation of Col. Lorenço 186 Parting with our Best Friend 187 Unpleasant Travelling 188 Arrival at Rio Claro 189 A Day with Dr. Gattiker 190 Trouble from Loss of Mule-Shoe 191 Value of Horses and Mules 192 Value of Different Articles 193 Varieties of Useful Timber 194 Specimens of Native Grass 195 Large Dinner Party 196 Addresses—Toasts 197 Water of Streams for Drinking 198 Return to Campinas 199 Dinner Party at Campinas 200 Complimentary Addresses 201 Awkward Blunder 202 Music and Refreshments 203 German Colony 204 House of Entertainment 205 Arrival at Cachoeira 206 Difficulties of Railroad Construction 207 The Lost Trunk 208 Audience with President 209 Emigration Society Organized 210 Cross on the Roadside 211 Fazenda Bananal 212 Comfortable Dwelling 213 Romantically-Situated Lake 214 Rare Combination of Beauties 215 Courtesy by a Stranger 216 Arrival at Santos 217 Attend Theatre with Friends 218 Soldiers—Sea-Sickness 219 Return to Rio Janeiro 220 Dinner at Botafogo 221 Arrival of a New Southern Delegation 222 Handbook for Emigrants 223 Hospitality at Caju 224 Report to Minister of Agriculture 225 Introduction of Friends 226 Arrangement for Further Investigation 227 Antagonism to Slavery Increasing 228 Tannery in São Christovão 229 Butchering Establishment 230 No General Market in Rio 231 Botanical Garden 232 Collection of Rare Specimens 233 Government Agent to Accompany us 234 Shopping in Rio 235 Cheap Ferriage 236 Examination of Site on the Beach 237 Ascent of Monteserrate 238 Arrangements Complete for Conceicão 239 Oldest Settlement in Brazil 240 A Novel Turnout 241 An Original Idea for Progression 242 Pedestrian Performances 243 Dreary Abode at Conceicão 244 Visit to an Old Convent 245 Ascent of River in a Canoe 246 Vagabondism has Few Cares 247 A New Remedy for Debility 248 Sample of Lands and Products 249 Trade for Otter Skins 250 Cargoes for Approaching Festival 251 “Paying the Piper” 252 A Brazilian Gentleman 253 High-Pressure Postilions 254 Almost a Disaster 255 Reconnoissance of City Lots 256 Lime-Factory—Tannery 257 Tanning not Neat, but Profitable 258 Examination of a Coast Farm 259 Attractive Site on Beach 260 Collision Growing out of Slave-Trade 261 Brick and Tile Factory 262 Favorable Report of Cananea 263 Free Travel—Sporting Students 264 Ascent of Inclined Plane 265 Difficulties of Railroading 266 Religious Tolerance Conditional 267 Wet and Dry Seasons 268 Free Land to Emigrants 269 Missionary Operations 270 A Catholic Priest Converted 271 Ordination by Presbytery 272 Prospective Extension of Railroad 273 Pack-Mules Laden with Cotton 274 Arrival at Itu 275 Fine Collection of Fruits 276 Good Site for Machinery 277 Extensive Quarry 278 General Use of Tooth-Picks 279 Cheap Rents at Porto Feliz 280 An Intelligent Mulatto Priest 281 The Negro Taint 282 Iron-Works at Epanema 283 An Opening for Capitalists 284 Good Quarters at Sorocaba 285 Non-observance of Christmas 286 Pleasant Evening-Party 287 Whips and Riding Outfit 288 Campos and Cultivated Slopes 289 Goitre and Leprosy 290 Town of Itapetininga 291 Cotton-Gin by Leg-Power 292 Corn, Cotton, Potatoes 293 Manure Advantageous 294 Stock-Farm Enclosure 295 Report from Major Meriwether 296 Land on the Road to Lençoes 297 Festivities of New Year’s Eve 298 Sad Thoughts 299 Kindness of a Catholic Vicar 300 Procession of Our Lady of Conception 301 The Priest’s Family 302 Females Riding Astride 303 Leaving Paranapanema 304 Aspect of the Country 305 Bedbugs Rare—Fleas Plenty 306 Dodging the Recruiting Officer 307 Backwoodsman’s Dwelling 308 Table Arrangements 309 Sleeping Accommodations 310 Peculiar Custom after Eating 311 Leather Breeches Don’t Tear 312 Hunting Stray Mules 313 A Night in the Forest 314 A Sliding Scale of Travel 315 Most Excruciating Roads 316 Limestone, Lead and Iron Ore 317 Killing Cobras 318 Plan for Descent of River 319 Deficient Cotton Culture 320 Coffee Trees—Rice-Mill 321 Salubrity of Climate 322 Fish—Scenery 323 Regular Dug-Out Canoe 324 Speaking Portuguese 325 Rolling Scaffolds—Saw-Mill 326 Cost of Travel by Water 327 Cotton of Four Years Growth 328 Ponto-Grosso—Cotton and Corn 329 Successful Transplanting of Cotton 330 Change of Rice Seed 331 Mandioca of Two Kinds 332 Cotton Grown without Ploughing 333 Rice and Fish for Food 334 Nest of Mahogany-Backs 335 Fishing with Gill-Net 336 Special Examination of Lands 337 Healthfulness of Locality 338 Beautiful Country 339 Fine Water-Power 340 Coffee Trees Heavily Laden 341 Forest Lands—Mosquitoes 342 Mountainous Aspect of Country 343 Hedges—Timber Abundant 344 Braço de Gado River 345 Wood-Rats—Troublesome Fly 346 Original Forest—Secondary Growth 347 Absence of Rain for Five Days 348 Land for Depot Tendered 349 Favorable-Looking Crops 350 Terms of Sale for Private Lands 351 Noble Hospitality at Caiacauga 352 Large Production of Corn 353 Location for Growing Coffee 354 Artificial Channel near River 355 Interview with Mr. Dunn 356 Epidemic at Ignape 357 Southern Families at Cananea 358 One of the Oldest Settlements 359 Very Fatal Bloody Flux 360 Temperance of City of Santos 361 Government of Brazil 362 Mints, Banks, Schools 363 On Board a Steamship 364 Again in Rio Janeiro 365 Preparing Report of Observations 366 Boarding-House by Southern Family 367 Warehouse for Agricultural Implements 368 Generosity of Mr. C. Nathan 369 Measures to Promote Immigration 370 Divisions of Soil and Territory 371 Transportation—Communication 372 Agricultural and other Resources 373 Character of Brazilians 374 Contents 375

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Footnote 1:

The adoption of a British flag by this ship-owner during the progress of the war enabled him to continue sailing upon the high seas, and his sentiments being known to the confederate cruisers, secured one of his vessels from destruction, that fell into their hands.

As vessels of Great Britain and the United States are more largely occupied in navigating the high seas than those of other nationalities, it is the custom of those meeting upon the ocean to hail in English, and there is scarcely a captain in charge of a vessel of any nation that is not sufficiently acquainted with the English language to communicate in this way with another.

The code of signals used by the English have been adopted by all nations navigating the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific; and thus vessels communicate with each other upon any matter desired, without being in speaking distance.

Footnote 2:

This discount upon United States money is practised very often upon strangers by those occupying other positions than hucksters, but a dollar in gold or silver coin of the United States will command two millreas of Brazilian money in most respectable business establishments of Rio de Janeiro, and is generally valued at this rate by exchange brokers. Upon this standard one dump is worth two cents, and I should have received twelve dumps and a half for my quarter instead of the ten which were given. It will save the reader who may go to Rio more than the price of this book, to keep in mind what is stated in this note.

Footnote 3:

Captain Lee informs me that in August, 1864, there sailed from Bahia a vessel containing over one hundred of these liberated negroes in families, men, and women, and children, who were bound for Africa, with the expectation of remaining in that country. They expressed a hope of being able to exert a favorable influence upon the natives, and it would be a very interesting part of their history to know whether they have lapsed into barbarism or have improved those with whom their lot is cast in Africa.

Footnote 4:

This gentleman has since ceased to be the chief engineer of the railroad, and his brother now occupies the position.

Footnote 5:

This admirable disinfecting establishment was subsequently visited. The materials are pumped from the reservoir, which is below the level of the water, and subjected to the action of various articles, among which I recognized alum, lime and charcoal, after which a deposit of the solid portions is formed in receptacles of immense proportions.

The fluid being acted upon by these agents, and then filtered, is rendered so entirely free from impurities that we were informed the superintendent drank some of it on the occasion of a visit by the Emperor, to illustrate the perfection of the process of disinfection. Delicious draught, no doubt!

There is no unpleasant smell about the place, and the remaining solid matter is employed as a fertilizer, without any of the disagreeable concomitants of poudrette.

The building is an elegant stone structure, and the operations are conducted by steam, under the immediate control of the English contractors, who are known as the city improvement company.

The gentleman in charge stated that this was an entirely new process, and that it has not been introduced elsewhere.

Footnote 6:

A sack of coffee weighing one hundred and sixty pounds is carried in this way without any apparent inconvenience, and most of the loading of vessels from the warehouses near the wharf is performed after this manner. The negroes usually move under such a burden in a brisk walk, or more frequently in a trot; and a number being employed, the work progresses very rapidly in putting a cargo of coffee aboard a ship.

Footnote 7:

I am indebted to Captain E. A. Lie, the intelligent master of the vessel in which my return passage was made, for some interesting particulars in regard to Pompeii, which he visited in 1857. His statement is as follows:

“The mass of volcanic matter which overlies the site of the former city of Pompeii is principally ashes, and on the borders has undergone such changes, that fields are in cultivation upon the spot.

“The explorations are entirely under the directions of the Imperial Government, and a guard is kept constantly over the place, so as to prevent any one from appropriating articles that may be discovered by those engaged in the work.

“The streets are so contracted that even the narrow vehicles of that period were unable to pass each other, and hence some of the thoroughfares are supposed to have afforded passage in one direction, while others were passed in the opposite direction. The deep cuts in the stone paving of the streets indicate that there was much passing of carriages or carts for a long period.

“Connecting with the side-walks there are stones elevated above the general level of the streets, upon which persons might step and avoid water that was flowing in the street. There are no signs of drains or sewers to be seen, nor of aqueducts.

“Those bodies remaining in the houses at the time of this wholesale burial are completely petrified, and black as ebony, a number of which are preserved in all their perfection of form. There are also petrified specimens of fruits, of bread, even with the baker’s name imprinted on it; of beef, of pork, and of various viands that were ready for eating.

“A large number of precious stones have been recovered, and among them an immense convex emerald, of great value, which was discovered in a tomb, supposed to contain the body of some very important dignitary. Many rich treasures have been found in the cemetery, evidently lodged with the dead in their last resting-place.

“There are evidences of much taste in the architectural department, and specimens of very elaborate workmanship have been discovered. The amphitheatre was evidently a grand structure, and with the base below the general surface of the earth, it is arranged with ascending rows of stone seats for the accommodation of a large assemblage. All the buildings are of stone.

“There is an extensive museum at Naples, which contains all the varieties from this reservoir of antiquarian relics; and to make the tour of this establishment, with a proper examination of these articles, and others of interest collected there, requires two weeks of unremitting observation.”

Footnote 8:

Captain Buhlaw received an appointment similar in rank to that held in the confederate service, and has been charged with the survey and mapping of the public lands near Cananea. In this service Mr. Mallory is associated with him under appointment of the government.

In regard to the tender of an appointment to the writer, the length of time occupied in the examination of the country precluded any other duty.

Footnote 9:

After the return of the Emperor from the seat of war, he and the Empress were seen in their coach, with six horses and a number of outriders. She endeavored to return the courtesies of those on the street by an almost incessant series of motions of the head from side to side, while he maintained an attitude of dignified complacence.

The horses are managed by men seated upon the saddle-horse of each pair, and they dash through the street at a rapid gait, a bugle being sounded frequently by a man riding in advance, so as to have the way cleared for the passage of the royal cortege.

Footnote 10:

Though this ant is so troublesome in the culture of the cotton grown from American seed, it does not attack the Brazilian cotton, which seems to be a variety of the sea island plant, that has been grown to a limited extent for a considerable period in Brazil. The stalk of this latter becomes very large, and really assumes the proportions of a small tree after growing three or four successive years. The lint is fine and the seed black and clean, but the yield is much less than the cotton from our ordinary short staple seed. The exemption from injury by the ant would constitute a very important recommendation if it produced as well as the other variety, but it is entirely abandoned since the introduction of the seed from the United States.

Footnote 11:

At his suggestion, an article appeared in the _Diario De São Paulo_, of September 26th, 1865, from which the following extracts are translated:

“This commission of Dr. Gaston arouses serious considerations. Under existing circumstances, our attention ought to be fixed, by preference, upon the States of the South of the American Union. A large portion of the party vanquished in the recent struggle will seek a new country. They cannot submit to the new order of things and live on a footing of equality with their slaves. Accumulated trouble, and various other reasons, concur to induce them to emigrate. If our government lose this favorable opportunity to draw them to our country it will not find another.

“If these families come, many others will come after them, and thus spontaneous emigration will be developed for our country. In the disposition with which they are now proposing to emigrate, it is natural that they should flow into the same place, and the country which has the happiness to receive well the first emigrants will receive all.

“The emigration from the States of the South of the Union is exactly that which suits us best. We do not want adventurers, who come into our country to gain fortunes, and that return to their domicils when they are secured. We want men who will establish themselves diligently in our country, and who will make common cause with us. The American emigrants that come will remain with us, and will never return to their country. The motives which induce the emigration afford us, in this respect, a complete guarantee. They procure a new country. They take as theirs the country which receives them. This consideration is important.

“The Anglo-American race has no rival in the world. The grand struggle through which they have passed leaves their prominence well established. It is the race which is most appropriate for us. Eminently industrious, enterprising and persevering, it will impart a notable impulse to our country. It is not possible to calculate the rapid progress which the country may have if this race comes, to turn to advantage its natural resources.

“Our political institutions cannot be repugnant to those inhabitants of the Union. In our country they will find all the liberty which can reasonably be desired. Our form of government, though it is not federative, approximates this system. The separate action of the provinces gives them, to a certain extent, an independent existence.

“The spectacle of slavery, which so much impresses strangers, will be viewed with indifference by those emigrants from the Southern States of the Union, that until very recently held slaves, and for this object sustained the greatest struggle which the world has seen.

“This subject deserves the special attention of the Government, whose lights and practical knowledge should guide the emissary of the emigrants in the selection of a locality that may be proper to receive them, giving him every means of enlightenment and information. The stranger, however qualified he may be, can easily be deceived in this respect.

“All depends upon the success of the first emigrants, and for the accomplishment of this every care should be taken in this matter.

“Our countrymen should not expect to sell their lands to these new emigrants for fabulous prices. If they bring some means they cannot nevertheless employ large capitals, because they have not got them. They once had fortunes, but the war has wasted them. The devastation which passed over the States of the South is well known.”

Footnote 12:

A notice has since appeared in the public prints of the falling down of this building, and the killing of several workmen. It is attributed to some excavation made in the vicinity of the wall, but the construction was such as might favor its downfall, and the use of the term ruin in the description implies such a condition.

Footnote 13:

It is not usual to find pepper, vinegar, catsup, mustard, or any thing of this kind upon the tables of the common people in the country, and hence the presence of these articles becomes a fact worthy of notice.

Footnote 14:

This expression, and the same placing of the hands with the palms together in front of the breast are observed also by children in approaching a parent for the first time after rising in the morning, or after being absent for a time. It is a common practice among the better class of people, and even after the children are grown.

Footnote 15:

The valuation placed by the owner upon this portion of the land is ten thousand ($10,000) dollars, and taking the amount of productive land as only three thousand (3,000) acres, having in all one hundred thousand coffee trees, the calculation per acre of three and a third ($3.33⅓) dollars is certainly very much more favorable than most improved land can be bought elsewhere in this region of country.

Footnote 16:

The owner of the land proposes to take seven thousand five hundred dollars ($7,500) for the lands lying adjacent to the river Roque, which are supposed to include two thousand acres of good land, but estimated as containing more than double that amount by the proprietor.

The body of land described as of superior quality, in a southwest course from the buildings, with the site of the fazenda, are not offered for sale.

A few families might be accommodated with these lands, but they are not adapted for a large settlement of people.

At one point the Roque tract is said to connect with Angelica, and if that territory can be bought upon similar terms, it would permit extension of the population; but, as was stated, Senor Vergueiro declined to name the price fixed upon that property.

Footnote 17: