Part 30

Corn has been heretofore one of the principal articles of export to Santos and Rio de Janeiro; and, in the form of big hominy, is used to a considerable extent in the country. But corn bread is not known here, though the farina is frequently made when that of the mandioca is not at hand. The white flint corn is the only kind which is planted, and though the ears are not large, it seems to be a sound, good grain.

The common white corn is said to be much more liable to injury from weevils than this hard variety; and the yellow or red corn is not found so marketable in the form of big hominy, which is dried and shipped in large quantities. A change of seed and improved culture would doubtless secure better results in the growth of corn.

Cotton has been grown in this region by a few persons for several years, with results that are conclusive as to the favorable yield, and yet systematic culture is requisite to test fully the quality and quantity that may be produced in these river lands. Should the improved appliances and the skilled labor of the Southern States be applied to the culture of cotton here, I am satisfied the yield will exceed that of the lands in the United States; and it is likely that the amount of cotton grown in Brazil within a few years will affect very much the markets of the world. The labor of production is materially lessened by its continuous growth from the same stalk, which is annually cut off and yields again full crops.

Coffee has been seen here in lands of various kinds, and of all ages, presenting the most favorable indications of an abundant yield. The coffee produced in former years presents also the characteristics of a good, sound grain; and I am informed that the average yield of trees equals what was stated elsewhere to be a full crop on the best lands.

Several patches of coffee trees have been seen that did not afford a prospect of good results; and it is evident that a selection of location is a matter of moment here, as it is found to be even in the districts where coffee is most successfully cultivated.

The same kind of discrimination is necessary in determining what localities are suited to the growth of other articles, and a neglect of such precautions leads to a failure in the crop of either.

Rice is recognized as a certain and prolific product of all this region, but more especially of the lower section where lands become flat and moist. Mandioca yields abundantly.

Beans, which are more prized in Brazil than any other provision crop, are found to yield well in the lands visited, and though some specimens of failure have been observed, this has, for the most part, been satisfactorily accounted for by planting out of season or other departure from good farming. An abundant crop of sugar-cane, oranges, bananas, figs, and grapes, with a most excellent quality of pine-apples, makes up a variety of products which renders this a desirable land for the settlement of those who seek a home in Brazil.

SUNDAY, _January 21, 1866_.

Rising before day my young friend had all our baggage deposited in the canoe, and fresh eggs, with hot coffee and bread were in readiness when I was summoned from my bed. Partaking of these “fresh eggs,” etc., we resumed our voyage down the river, and I found this was not to be regarded as breakfast, but with the addition of two entire chickens to our supplies for the trip, we breakfasted at 9 o’clock A. M., and dined at 4 o’clock P. M. on the water.

We had as fellow-passenger a young porcupine, (ouriço,) that one of the negroes was taking down to sell as a pet; and finding that he was testing the quality of our figs, the negro guardian was called upon to secure the ugly little varmint at one end of the canoe.

We passed during the forenoon the mouths of the Rio Jacupiranga and the Rio Paricoera, on the latter of which I was told there are quite a number of inhabitants. Shortly after mid-day we passed through a canal, or cut through a neck of land, about one mile in length, which saved us four miles in the natural course of the river. The difference of level in the Ribeira is so slight at the entrance and outlet of this artificial communication, that the current through it is feeble, and instead of washing out it is gradually filling up from the repeated rises of the river, and our canoe had great difficulty in passing. The negroes labored hard, and one of them got out several times to push the canoe through the mud; but they worked with a good will, under the promise of a drink of rum at the close. Both had previously taken off their shirts, and with the confined air of this narrow channel, the mosquitoes, and the hard pulling, their bodies and arms were covered with perspiration before reaching the open water of the river. After getting their drink, and resting a short time, they proceeded as usual again.

Another canal was encountered at no great distance, cutting off another bend of the river, but it was much shorter, and there was no difficulty in the passage. On approaching the city of Ignape there is a very large artificial channel, in which a small steamboat passes; and being very straight, with the water running in the direction we came, it made a very pleasant trip of over a mile, to the immediate precincts of the city bridge.

We stopped with the brother of my young friend, Senor Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who is keeping house in bachelor style, and places his establishment at my disposal in a way that relieves me of all embarrassment.

In descending the Ribeira it was observed that the corn did not present so good an appearance as it had done above, and in most places the banks were very low, so that the general surface of the land must be submerged in the floods of the river. When approaching the city the water spreads out into various channels, over an extensive area, again bringing up the resemblance to the Mississippi river near its mouth.

The tainha, a fine fish which frequents these waters at this season, was seen leaping up into the air to a distance of three feet.

MONDAY, _January 22, 1866_.

Having met the Rev. Ballard Smith Dunn, of Louisiana, at the hotel last evening, we found many topics of interest in rehearsing what had been seen by each of us in this country, and have spent this day together. He is acting in behalf of a number of families who desire to be informed in regard to Brazil, and has visited a portion of the provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Esperitos de Santos. He was favorably impressed with the inhabitants, and found some fine lands, yet did not conclude that it was desirable to locate in that region. He is now investigating the lands upon the tributaries of the Ribeira, and considers the soil adjacent to the waters of the Rio Jacupiranga of excellent quality, with a very promising prospect for crops of corn in most parts. In passing through, from the colony of Cananea, he reports that very fertile lands were seen, and he hopes to find in this region a desirable location for his friends. He will ascend the Rio Paricoera, and also the Rio Inquia; which latter affords an encouraging field for examination, as it is likely to be the line of communication with the great iron-works of Epanema. If he should recommend some portion of this territory for a settlement of people from the Southern States, it would strengthen very much my conviction of the advantages likely to accrue from a location in the vicinity of Xiririca, as it is extremely desirable that our people should be as far as practicable associated together.

TUESDAY, _January 23, 1866_.

Being detained to-day in Ignape, awaiting the arrival of the steamer, to proceed to Cananea, I may note some points connected with this port of entry. It is located upon a low flat point of land, with a rugged mountain ridge rising up at a short distance from it, and the whole is surrounded by water. With a low land extending up from the city, along the Ribeira for a considerable distance, it is not a matter of surprise that the place is reported to be unhealthy, and recently there has been a very serious epidemic, bloody flux, prevailing, attended with considerable fatality, but has now ceased.

There is a very large church in the process of completion, at a central point of the buildings in the place; and the abandoned walls of an immense jail that was supposed to be in demand some years ago, but the improved morals of the population, or the want of resources, induced them to leave it unfinished. There are but few houses of two stories, conforming to the type of most of the interior towns in having one-story buildings.

The general appearance of the population does not give a favorable impression of their physical stamina, or their intellectual status, yet I have met several gentlemen of refinement and cleverness, among whom I may especially mention Dom Antonio Joaquim Rodrigues, Juiz de Direita, and my young friend Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who holds the position corresponding to our District Attorney, or Solicitor for the State. The latter speaks some English, and we got on very pleasantly, in his snug bachelor’s retreat, during my stay.

WEDNESDAY, _January 24, 1865_.

Leaving Ignape during the forenoon, in the Dom Affonso, we steamed along the inland sea, known as Mare Pequeno, and really the Bay of Venice cannot present a scene of more simple beauty than this placid sheet of water.

Several cozy-looking dwellings are located very near the margin, and the borders are fringed with green foliage, while here and there an islet is slightly elevated above the surface, and to complete the picture, water-fowls of various plumage are seen either resting upon the water or flying around with evident surprise at the presence of our little intruder.

In the course of the afternoon a heavy rain drove us from the deck into the cabin, and as the shades of evening were closing around us, the steamer reached the villa of Cananea.

Shortly after anchoring, Senor E. H. Street came aboard, and took me ashore to spend the night. We called upon Captain Buhlaw and lady, and also Mr. Hanson and lady, living in the same house. They are favorably impressed with the suitableness of the country for their future residence; and arrangements are already completed by those two gentlemen, for the location of a saw-mill upon the river Guarahu, five miles above its confluence with the Rio Jacupiranga, which proceeds thence thirty miles into the Ribeira de Ignape.

We took tea with these Southern people, and while sitting in that little social group, unfettered by any political domination, my thoughts turned anxiously to the fate of those who remained in the South.

THURSDAY, _January 25, 1866_.

We breakfasted with our Southern friends, and relished it the more for being prepared by the hands of the ladies. Mrs. Hanson is quite a young woman with one child, and seems prepared to take life as she may find it, saying that she only wants now to get a place fixed where she could have her own garden, and raise her own poultry, to feel entirely independent.

Mrs. Buhlaw does not seem to adapt herself so readily to this border style of living, yet she is cheerful, and hopeful of the future.

These families are sojourning only temporarily here, until arrangements for their accommodation are completed at some distance in the country.

The villa of Cananea is one of the oldest settlements in Brazil, the fleet of Martin Affonso de Sonza having landed at this place, August 12, 1531, and placed upon the island of Abrigo, at an elevated point known as Morro São Joas, two stone pillars, which are still to be seen.

This island upon which the villa is located is at the outlet of the long, narrow body of water, which we traversed in coming from Ignape. Though the mouth of the Ribeira leads out to the ocean, opposite to the city of Ignape the bar is so shallow as to preclude the passage of vessels in that direction, so that they are required to come through this Mare Pequeno, a distance of forty-five miles, for an outlet; and, if going towards Rio de Janeiro, must return along the coast the same distance, to reach the point from which they might proceed directly if the mouth of the river could be made navigable.

In view of this circuitous navigation, it is very desirable that a good wagon-road should be constructed from Xiririca across the country to the port of Cananea near the main land. I am informed by Senor Street and Captain Buhlaw that the route is very favorable even for a railroad; while the port is capable of admitting, with good protection, vessels of the largest size. The largest extent of public lands lies south of this proposed road, and products might be conveyed along it either to Xiririca or to the port of Cananea, as might be most convenient.

The epidemic bloody flux, which visited the city of Ignape, is now prevailing in Cananea, and has been attended with great fatality, more especially among children. In one family as many as eight persons have died in one month, and a number of deaths have occurred in other families. But the population have now to a large extent left the villa and gone into the country, where they are entirely exempt from the disease. The absence of a means of proper treatment has doubtless added very much to the fatal results, as there was no medical man residing in either of these places, and though a doctor is paid now by the province, and medicines furnished to him for the treatment of the sick at Cananea, there is but little confidence reposed in his skill or his integrity and faithfulness.

Regarding this epidemic as a transient disease, confined to these populated localities, it does not augur any thing unfavorable to the healthfulness of the country.

FRIDAY, _January 26, 1866_.

Having resumed my voyage upon the Dom Affonso, Senor Street and myself were reduced to the necessity of sleeping upon the table in the small cabin, with all the apertures closed on account of a fall of rain. In addition to the crowded condition of the berths by whites, and others slightly tinged, there were several negro women of the real ebony stamp sleeping upon the floor, and with the confined air, charged with emanations from various accumulations during the night, our situation was little short of the Black Hole of Calcutta. I will say, however, for the general management aboard of the small and antiquated steamboat, that it was very satisfactory; and though the table does not compare with that of the Santa Maria, every thing is well prepared and clean. The large number of persons aboard indicates that a better boat with larger accommodations is needed upon this line, which makes a trip monthly, touching at the points upon the coast as far south as Santa Catharina.

Upon entering Santos we found the English steamer Galileo loading for Rio de Janeiro; and as the passage is likely to be more expeditious as well as more comfortable, Senor Street and myself with two or three other passengers have arranged to go in this vessel to-morrow morning. She is consigned to Mr. W. T. Wright.

Since my former visit, Mr. and Mrs. Wright have been favored with a daughter, which is now a month old; and she is again doing the duties of her household with her customary grace and kindness.

I am indebted to my friend, Mr. Wright, for collecting the following valuable data pertaining to this city and province, as well as the whole empire of Brazil.

_Mean temperature of city of Santos, by R. J. de Balbi, Inspector of Port; transferred from Centigrade to Fahrenheit scale._

Month. 1863 1864 1865 January 83.62 80.67 No record February 82.40 78.67 „ March 78.83 80.38 „ April 77.03 74.28 „ May 69.92 72.59 „ June 68.11 68.89 „ July 67.17 67.98 „ August 66.32 66.23 „ September 68.39 No record „ October 71.65 „ „ November 74.78 „ 75.49 December 78.22 „ 78.45

The only practical distinction here is, into cooler and warmer season, but the classification is made and the months will be thus arranged into seasons:

Summer.—December, January, and February.

Autumn.—March, April, and May.

Winter.—June, July, and August.

Spring.—September, October, and November.

The highest temperature is about 90°, and the lowest is about 60° Fahrenheit.

The summer months constitute the rainy season, and the winter months the driest part of the year in most of the territory of Brazil.

The government of Brazil consists of the Emperor and his Council, the Senate, and House of Deputies, acting under the constitution.

The cabinet is formed as that of Great Britain; one man being commissioned by the Emperor, selects his portfolio and colleagues, he becoming president or premier of the council. The members are ministers of the empire, of foreign affairs, of finance, of war, of the navy, of justice; and under one head, of commerce, agriculture, with public works; making seven departments.

Senators are balloted for by electors, the three highest being forwarded to the Emperor, who selects one to fill the office, which is held for life. It is not requisite that he shall be a resident of the province for which he is chosen. Deputies are chosen every four years by electors. The Emperor can dissolve any congress and call for a new election as in Great Britain.

There is a judge for each district, and two terms of court each year. In trial by jury, the decision is by plurality, and grade of punishment according to majority.

Courts of appeal at Bahia, Maranhão, and other places, while there is a supreme court for higher offences. There is no grand jury, but process formed by delegado or sub-delegado of police, (corresponding to sheriff and deputy,) and if there is reason found for trial, indictment is sent to the municipal judge, (corresponding to magistrate,) and if approved he sends it to the district judge; and when approved by him, the case is ordered for trial before the jury. Magistrates elected by the people.

In addition to delegado and sub-delegado appointed by the President of the province for each district, there is a chief of police for each province appointed by the Emperor. Each province has its own legislature, chosen by the people. The President has veto power, which may be set aside by a two-thirds vote.

One archbishop residing at Bahia is the chief see, and there is also a bishop for each province, and a vicar in each district.

One mint at Rio de Janeiro, and the Bank of Brazil, with sundry others, is also located there; while there are branch banks in various provinces for issue, and private banks for deposit and discount.

Schools and colleges are numerous. A law academy in São Paulo, and also in Bahia. A medical college in Rio de Janeiro.

_January 27, 1866._

Senor Street and myself came aboard of the fine steamship Galileo at 10 o’clock A. M., but the vessel was detained a considerable time by a hawser becoming entangled in her screw.

A man was brought from the city by her agent, Mr. W. T. Wright, who dived down under the wheel, and remaining over a minute under the water, succeeded in disentangling the cable.

This vessel is the second English steamer that has recently taken loading from this port, under an arrangement effected by Mr. Wright for the permission of coastwise freight by foreign bottoms, in consideration of the large proportion of Brazilian vessels now chartered by the government in connection with the belligerent operations against Paraguay. The troops of Lopez have now been withdrawn from Brazilian territory, and yet hold a defiant attitude upon the soil of Paraguay. It is now the purpose of the Emperor to conquer a peace with these troublesome neighbors, and it is generally thought that hostilities will soon be successfully ended.

The Galileo has taken aboard here nineteen hundred and fifty-two (1952) bales of cotton of the small size, weighing one hundred and twelve (112) pounds, some of which stop at Rio de Janeiro, while another portion is for shipment to Liverpool. She brought from Montevideo a partial cargo, consisting of two hundred sheep, and all the appurtenances of the slaughtering of cattle, hides, horns, and bones, amounting to some five hundred tons.

The sheep and a portion of the cargo are shipped for Rio, while the remainder goes to England.

This vessel has excellent passenger accommodations, and the table is served differently from that of the Brazilian steamers, the waiters supplying promptly all the wants of the guests in the former, while in the latter passengers are expected to look after their own wants during the meals. In the fare of Brazilian steamers, table wine is included, while on the English vessel all wines, beer, or liquors are a separate item of charge, and there is a margin of two (2.00) dollars difference in the rates between the Santa Maria and the Galileo, the passage on the former being eighteen (18.00) dollars, while that of the latter is sixteen (16.00) dollars.

We find on board Captain Markam, the master of the unfortunate Herschel, that was wrecked below a short time since. His vessel first struck upon a rock not indicated in the charts, and was so badly damaged that all preparatory steps were taken for the safety of the passengers and crew in the boats. But he still had a hope of getting her into the port of Marlausdo, and placing her under the direction of a pilot she was run upon a rock a second time and was lost, all on board being saved.

An English gentleman named Stickney, who was aboard of the Herschel, is now a passenger with us, and has been examining some of the territory of Brazil, with reference to farming and sheep-raising. He is much pleased with some of the country, but has not yet made any selection. I infer from his own statements, that he has been conducting quite an extensive business in this department in England, and it would be very desirable to see some of those experienced farmers entering into that neat and systematic style of business in this country.

SUNDAY, _January 28, 1866_.

The harbor of Rio de Janeiro was entered to-day at 1 o’clock P. M. Being hailed at the fort and boarded by three different officials of the Brazilian government, our vessel proceeded to her anchorage, and I reached the wharf at 3 o’clock P. M. My quarters are taken again at the Exchange Hotel, and having a small bed-room, with an open hall in front that is well ventilated, I am likely to have a quiet time for preparing my report to the Minister of Agriculture pertaining to my tour of observation.