Part 4

Taking a hack, I proceeded to his residence at the time specified, and, upon entering, quite an awkward scene ensued, as neither understood the language of the other, and there was no interpreter present. Making an attempt to converse in French did not relieve our embarrassment, as my stock of the language was too limited to understand or to make myself understood in that tongue. At length, he wrote, at my suggestion, in French, that a gentleman who spoke English would arrive shortly to act as interpreter. Understanding this, I took a seat, and remained quietly until the interpreter came. Our intercourse being now made easy, he desired to know my views and wishes in regard to the measures that might promote the emigration of my friends to Brazil. I told him that the object of visit was to look for a home for my own family, and to make an examination of the country, with a view to report the result for the information of other families, whose unfortunate situation in the South induced them to desire a change of residence, and, in like manner with myself, hoped that a desirable location might be found in this country. He expressed a great desire to encourage the class of people to whom I referred, and said that he would take the matter at once into consideration, and devise a plan for assisting those who were desirous of coming to Brazil from the Southern States.

In the mean time, he proposed to render me all the aid in his power for a thorough examination of the country; and, as I had already concluded to visit the province of São Paulo, he informed me that a ticket would be furnished me to go by the steamer to-morrow to Santos, and that he would supply me with letters to the President of the province, and to other influential persons in different parts of the country. He told me that passage would be furnished likewise to an interpreter, if one could be secured, and that he would provide in like manner for any friend I might desire to accompany me on the expedition. He further stated, that under his direction to the President of the province, all the requisite facilities would be afforded to me by him, for my exploration of the lands lying in the interior of the province, and expressed a wish that I might find there a suitable location for myself and my friends.

I learned in the course of the conversation that the minister comes from the province of São Paulo; and, therefore, perhaps he feels more interest in giving encouragement to an investigation of that region, than if my examination was directed to some other quarter. My predilection for this locality being entirely independent of any partiality on the part of the minister, I will yet gladly avail myself of the advantages which may accrue from this fact, and with the offer of assistance in making a thorough exploration, I will, for the present, suspend all further action in regard to an appointment in the Hospital Department, and devote myself to this examination of the lands and resources of this fertile province.

The gentleman who acted as interpreter is the secretary of the Minister of Agriculture, and it was understood that he would bring to-morrow morning, to my quarters, the letters and other papers with which I am to be provided for making this tour of examination.

The ticket for passage upon the steamer was given to me to-day; and all the necessary indorsements and stamps put upon my passport at the treasury and police offices. I can now proceed with my personal preparations for getting off to-morrow, and will notify Major da Cunha of my leaving, so that he may take such steps as he may think proper, in regard to the paper which was to be prepared for the other mission. No calculation can be made as to the length of time I may be engaged in the examination of these lands, and my intention is to make a full report of all my observations, as a guide to my friends and others who may be interested in the resources of this country.

The residence of Senor Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, is in the precinct of São Christovão, and near the palace of the Emperor, where his family reside. But my pressing duties did not admit of any delay to visit the royal abode, and I must reserve the privilege of paying my respects to his majesty for a future occasion. I feel, however, no special inclination to wait upon the Emperor, unless business should require me to see him, and his time and patience are doubtless sufficiently taxed here with visits of mere formality. As he is absent at the seat of war just now, all the matters of business that would have taken me to see him will probably be disposed of by his ministers, and there will be no need to see him.[9]

On the way to São Christovão, I passed the grand butcher pen of the city, which monopolizes the slaughtering of the cattle for the market. It is a large establishment, with spacious grounds, and a high cast-iron fence, having a gate of huge proportions with portals of hewn stone.

There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of ooze, by which the leather is tanned.

Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.

The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the improvements on the plain below.

THURSDAY, _September 21, 1865_.

Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.

We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr. Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me on arrival at the city of São Paulo.

My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me, whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to Santos.

The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but finished in all her parts with good taste.

The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and especially the change of plates for each different article that is eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time, indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as at dinner.

The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach, or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is expected to supply himself as far as practicable.

Persons who concluded their meals, and did not care to wait for those seated on the bench upon either side of them, crept under the table, and made their way out at the opposite side, where there was no wall to be encountered.

Wine is an invariable accompaniment of dinner, and after all is concluded, it is the custom to serve coffee without milk.

The custom of this country recognizes but two meals a day—breakfast being from eight to nine o’clock A. M., and dinner from four to five o’clock P. M. But it is usual to have a cup of coffee upon rising in the morning, and a cup of tea, with crackers or fancy cakes, is taken at night.

Tea is generally taken for breakfast by the Brazilians, and when I made inquiry at the breakfast table for a cup of coffee, it had to be made before it could be furnished. The cups here are exceedingly small, holding but little more than an ordinary wine-glass; and the coffee or tea is made strong in an increase ratio to the size of the receptacle, which suits my taste very well, as I have no fancy for long coffee, by which term the Brazilians style it when very weak.

My isolated position among strangers, whose language was unknown to me, was relieved by meeting aboard Senor Antonio de Barros, to whom I had been introduced at the house of the Minister of Agriculture. He speaks English, so as to carry on conversation very well, though he seems to be impressed with a sense of his deficiency in the use of the language. I found him quite kindly disposed, and in all respects a gentleman. He assisted me in making known my wants at the table, and on other occasions, giving me also a correct pronunciation of the few Portuguese words which I had acquired for necessary purposes. He proved to be a very genial and intelligent associate during the voyage, and gave me important items of information in regard to the province of São Paulo, in which he resides. He is a brother-in-law of Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, the Minister of Agriculture, and his father is Baron of Rerecicoba, so that his associations are the best of the land. Having received his education as an engineer in Germany, he speaks that language and French as well as his native tongue, the Portuguese. His knowledge of English has been obtained from teachers and reading, without any opportunity of associating with people speaking the language. Under these circumstances, I was surprised that he should have so good a pronunciation and conception of the English language.

There was a young Portuguese aboard of the steamer who also spoke some English, and manifested a disposition to assist me in getting a vocabulary of Portuguese words. His pronunciation of English, however, was very defective, and frequently I could not understand what he attempted to say to me, which made our intercourse rather embarrassing.

There was a sleight-of-hand operator on the vessel, who afforded considerable entertainment by his tricks, with a small ivory ball and a cup or stand with a cover, in which this and other articles would be placed and removed at will, without any one being able to detect the process.

Our steamer kept in sight of land throughout the entire route, and occasionally passed between an island of rock and the shore, giving a fine view on each side.

FRIDAY, _September 22, 1865_.

After a late breakfast, most of the passengers repaired to the deck, where comfortable seats were arranged for their accommodation. The atmosphere was quite cool, and with a brisk wind, I felt as if my overcoat would be acceptable, but being interested in the scenery I did not care to go below for the purpose of getting it, and I walked to and fro upon the deck, so as to keep my blood in active circulation. I was, perhaps, the only man who did not smoke, and most of them were using the cigarettes made of the corn husk, containing tobacco, which are very much in use here by all classes of people. In the Portuguese language this is called cigar, while our article of that name is called cherotte. The snuff is ordinarily called tobacco here, and the article for chewing fumo, thus changing all our terms in the Portuguese language.

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning, and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends. His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance. These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city; but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr. Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house. Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going, so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others in that section.

I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife; Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others having large estates that may be for sale.

Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his invitation, I of course accepted it.

Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement elsewhere, until I examine that locality.

Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo, and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate very much the transportation of products to this point; which will afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro. Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.

After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city, which cannot be noticed now.