Part 6

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in the evening, I proceeded with them to the lower apartment of the house, where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part to the comprehension of the others present.

WEDNESDAY, _September 27, 1865_.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter, as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

THURSDAY, _September 28, 1865_.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals, however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would have been so much delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted, there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land, constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I can’t see them now.

FRIDAY, _September 29, 1865_.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have determined to send him a letter of thanks, expressing my obligations for the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the people.

SATURDAY, _September 30, 1865_.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill, and a well-constructed furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand, will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick, instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse, rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,) he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens, where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results compared with those of good lands.

_October 1, 1865._

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford, was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way, under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in attendance at each service were from the humbler class of society, and there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through his influence with the government.

MONDAY, _October 2, 1865_.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr. Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

TUESDAY, _October 3, 1865_.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely through, after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made, to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas, a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this line of railroad to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi, before 12 o’clock M.