Part 10

27½ M. =Puerto Orotava.=—HOTELS (often crowded in March and April). *_Grand Hotel_ (or ‘Kurhaus Humboldt’; about 330 ft.), in a fine open situation on the N. slope of the Montaña de la Horca, with splendid views from the roof-terrace, beautiful grounds, and sea-baths on the Martianez beach (see below), R. from 4_s._, pens. 12_s._ 6_d._–20_s._; for guests ascending the Peak the hotel provides mule, guide, porter, accommodation in the Alta Vista hut, and food for two days for an inclusive sum of 30_s._ *_Hot. Martianez_, at the E. end of the town, not far from the sea, once a nobleman’s château, with a charming garden, pens. 12–15_s._; _Hot. Monopol_, Plaza de la Iglesia, R. 2_s._ 6_d._–3_s._, pens. 8–10_s._, good (all three under German management); _Hot. Marquesa_, Plaza de la Iglesia, pens. 5–6_s._, Spanish, well spoken of.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Calle de Quintana, near the Plaza de la Iglesia.

BANKER. _T. M. Reid_, Calle San Juan.—PHOTOGRAPHER. _Baeza_, Calle de la Hoya.—TENERIFFE WORK. _Franken_, Calle de Santo Domingo 10.

PHYSICIANS. _Dr. Lishman_, Casa Montaña; _Dr. Perez_.—CHEMIST. _R. Gomez_, Calle de Santo Domingo.

MUSIC in the Plaza de la Constitución.—SORTIJA RIDING (tilting at the ring) in the grounds of the Grand Hotel.

CARRIAGES. To Villa Orotava or Realejo 10 p.; to Tacoronte 20–25 p.; to Icod de los Vinos 25 p.—OMNIBUS to Villa Orotava twice daily, 1 p.—MULE (mulo) to Agua Mansa 10 p., to Güimar 12½, to the Peak 20 p.—DONKEY (burro), 5 p. per day (according to bargain).—GUIDE to the Peak 20 p.

ENGLISH CHURCH (resident chaplain) in the grounds above the Grand Hotel.—ENGLISH CEMETERY and others to the W. of the town.

_Puerto Orotava_, officially called _Puerto de la Cruz_, the most popular invalid resort in the Canaries, a poor little seaport with 3100 inhab., lies on a delta formed by lava-streams. The Calle San Juan, the main street, in continuation of the highroad, descends, passing near the Plaza de la Constitución, with its garden-grounds, to the _Pier_ (Muelle), whence the produce of the Orotava Valley is conveyed by small boats to the vessels in the roads.

In the Plaza de la Iglesia, to the E. of the Plaza de la Constitución, are the _Iglesia de la Peña de Santa Francisca_, with its new tower, and the _Casas Consistoriales_ or town-hall, with its old-fashioned wooden balcony.—Mr. R. Gomez, the chemist (see above), possesses a small _Guanche Museum_ (adm. 1 p.).

To the E. of the town a palm-avenue leads along the _Barranco de Martianez_ to the bathing beach (Playa de Martianez). Beyond the ravine, about halfway up the abrupt coast-hill, is the spring called _Fuente de Martianez_.—A zigzag path ascends to the _Sitio de la Paz_ (492 ft.), once occupied by Alex. von Humboldt (1814), and now containing several memorials of that savant. A cypress-avenue is the sole relic of the old garden (fee).—A beautiful walk may be taken to the _Barranco de las Arenas_, 1½ hr. to the E.

To the S. the Camino del Puerto (see below) leads past the _Observatorio_ (belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg) to the *_Botanic Garden_ (Jardín Botánico or de Aclimatación), laid out in 1788, which, though sadly neglected, contains exquisite flowers, superb magnolias, and fine specimens of royal, Canary, and exotic palms, dragon-trees (p. 30), and fig-trees (Ficus imperialis and Ficus nitida; p. 233).

A dusty road (donkey 3 p.) leads from the cemetery at the W. end of the town to the _Finca los Frailes_ of Dr. Perez, with its splendid avenue of palms. The road ends at the _Risco do Burgado_, with its fissured lava cliffs, washed by huge breakers.

Pleasant ride (4–5 hrs.; donkey 4, horse 8 p.) by Los Frailes to _Realejo Bajo_ and _Realejo Alto_ (p. 42), returning, above the three eruptive cones (p. 38), viâ _Cruz Santa_ (p. 41), _Perdoma_, and _Villa Orotava_.

From Puerto Orotava the dusty roads mentioned on p. 39, besides the Camino del Puerto, the old bridle-path, lead through a garden-like region in 1¼–1½ hr. to =Villa Orotava= (1080–1480 ft.; Hot. Suizo, pens. 6–8 p., good; Hot. Victoria, same charges; 3600 inhab.) the _Arautápala_ of the Guanches, now the capital of the Orotava Valley. The antiquated little town, which has fallen into great poverty since the decline of the cochineal culture (p. 32), occupies almost the loveliest site in the whole island.

At the E. entrance is the Plaza de San Agustín, with the old _Iglesia de San Agustín_ and a band-stand, whence we have a fine view of Puerto Orotava and the sea. Near it is the _Villa of Marquesa Quinta_, now owned by Dr. Perez (p. 39), with its beautiful park; on the highest terrace is a marble mausoleum (adm. to both 1 p.).

In the quarter above the _Iglesia de la Concepción_ are several châteaux of the noblesse. On the S.W. side of the town, near the monastery of _San Francisco_ (now a hospital), are two old mansions with very handsome carved balconies (comp. p. 36).

An excursion, attractive in clear weather only, may be made to the farm of =Aqua Mansa= (3491 ft.), in the S.E. angle of the Orotava Valley, within the cloud-region, 1½ hr. to the S.E. of Villa Orotava. Steep bridle-path; mule, see p. 39. The chestnut and erica woods are succeeded in the _Barranco de la Arena_ by primæval *Pine Forest, near which is an abrupt slope with huge columns of basalt, known as the _Organos_ (organ-pipes). From Agua Mansa we may either ride back by the W. margin of the _Ladera de Santa Ursula_ (p. 38) and the farm of _La Florida_, or we may cross the _Pedro Gil Pass_ (6522 ft.; the top of the Cumbre, to the S.W., commands a striking view of the E. coast and the Grand Canary) to the grand basin of the *_Garganta de Güimar_, and along the lava-stream of 1705, past _Arafo_, to (6–7 hrs.) _Güimar_ (p. 36).

The ASCENT OF THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE, which is fatiguing but without danger, takes two days and should be made in the warmer season (hotel arrangement for the ascent, see p. 39; tariffs for mule and guide, also see p. 39). The excursion affords an admirable insight into the geological structure of the island, while the view in clear weather is of unparallelled grandeur. The equipment most needed consists of riding leggings, an Alpenstock (_lanza_), stout boots, a lantern, rugs, drinking-water, abundant provisions, grey spectacles or goggles, and lanoline for the face. In the Cañadas (see below) the guides and mule-drivers often refuse their services when snow is falling. The shortest way to the peak is by the bridle-path from Puerto Orotava, viâ Cruz Santa, to the Portillo. In about 10 hrs. we reach the refuge-hut of Alta Vista, the keys of which are brought by the guide. We may afterwards descend to Icod Alto and Realejo Alto (p. 42; about 8 hrs.), where a vehicle may be ordered to meet us; or we may descend viâ the Llano de la Maja to Güimar (p. 36; 10 hrs.).

Our route ascends through every climatic zone in the world. From the tropical region of Puerto Orotava we pass, beyond _Cruz Santa_ (1500 ft.), through the _Taoro Basin_ into the temperate zone, the region of maize and cereals, where numerous cottages are shaded by chestnut-trees. Leaving behind the thickets of _Monte Verde_ and following the _Camino del Brezal_ with its view of the sombre _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38), we mount, beyond the cloud-region, a wilderness of lava. A most striking change of scenery is observed at the _Portillo_ (6611 ft.), lying a little to the E. of the Fortaleza (p. 42), and forming the entrance to the *_Montañas de las Cañadas_, the lowest and oldest crater. This enormous basin, 6–12½ M. in diameter, girdles the base of the Peak with its ring-shaped wall of lava rocks (650–1650 ft. high), the continuity of which has, however, been broken by later eruptions. The summit of the Peak is rarely free from snow except in August and September. We now ride across the _Cañadas Plateau_ (midday-rest; view of the Peak), a desolate expanse of pumice-stone, overgrown with scanty Retama (p. 31), and in summer enlivened by a few goats. Here and there it is intersected by huge lava-streams and covered with isolated eruptive cones. The sky is generally cloudless, the sun intensely hot, and the air marvellously clear. At the foot of the lower portion of the Peak, not far from the spur of _Los Rastrojos_ (7562 ft.), begins the toilsome ascent over the grey-white pumice-stone of the _Montaña Blanca_ (8691 ft.) to the saddle adjoining the pyramid-like peak. The zigzag path now mounts the slopes of slag, inhabited by rabbits, mostly between streams of black obsidian, to the _Lomo Tiezo_. In the midst of the expanse of slag shady resting-places are formed here and there by great blocks of lava, such as the _Estancia de los Ingleses_ (9711 ft.) and the _Estancia de los Alemanes_ (10,018 ft.). Below the spot where the lava-streams unite to form the sickle-shaped _Piedras Negras_ stands the refuge-hut of _Alta Vista_ (10,728 ft.; accommodation for 15 pers. at the utmost, at 5 p. each). From this point we already enjoy, in clear weather, an imposing view of the E. half of the island, of the Grand Canary (p. 43), and even of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote (p. 28), a glorious spectacle more particularly at sunset, when the Peak gradually casts its shadow over the sea as far as the Grand Canary.

Next morning we start early. The winding path ascends a field of lava to (1 hr.) the _Rambleta_ (11,713 ft.), the central crater-basin, out of which towers the trachytic cone, covered with pumice-stone, of the _Pitón_ or _Pan de Azúcar_ (‘sugar-loaf’), the summit of the **=Peak of Teneriffe=, or _Pico de Teide_ (12,175 ft.; ‘peak of hell’). In ½¾ hr. we climb its slopes to the _Corona_, the very narrow margin of the _Caldera_, the insignificant highest crater (77 by 110 yds.; 130 ft. in depth), which was still active in the middle ages, but now emits a few jets of steam only from its fumaroles (comp. p. 29). When the horizon is perfectly clear, the eye ranges over an area of some 2200 sq. M.; floating, as it were, in the midst of the boundless expanse of the ocean, the blue of which seems to blend on the horizon with the blue of the sky, we can sometimes see the whole of the Canaries, from Palma, Hierro, and Gomera on the W. to the far-distant E. group. To the W. we look down upon the grand crater of the Pico Viejo (see below), the Chahorra, and the Talus de Bilma, studded with countless coloured cinder-cones. We survey, from the Fortaleza on the N.E. to the Morro del Cedro on the S.W., the ring-shaped wall of the Cañadas, with the pumice-stone wilderness of the Cañadas Plateau and the coloured lava-masses of the Azulejos (see below). The older serrated mountains in the island (pp. 32, 33) and the green basins of Orotava and Icod are generally shrouded by a sea of clouds of dazzling whiteness.

On the DESCENT, which experts may shorten at first by glissading down the cinder-slopes, we may visit the _Cueva del Hielo_ (11,044 ft.), a fine lava cavern a little below the Rambleta, always filled with ice and water. From the Montaña Blanca (p. 41) we then turn to the N. to the _Fortaleza_ (8300 ft.), the only considerable height on the N. margin of the Cañadas wall. The bridle-path, very steep and rough, next descends to the _Corona de Icod_ (about 2900 ft.), the highest point of the _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38), falling away to the E. in a huge rocky slope, and again offering a glorious view of the Vale of Orotava. From _Icod Alto_ (1716 ft.) we may descend rapidly to the N.E. to _Realejo Alto_ (see below), or we may wend our way due W. to _Icod de los Vinos_ (p. 43).

ROUND THE CAÑADAS is an interesting but toilsome excursion. From the Portillo (p. 41) we strike to the S. across the Cañadas Plateau to the rocks of the _Risco Verde_ (7130 ft.), on the E. margin of the encircling wall, where a lava cavern serves for night-quarters. The path then leads to the S.W., skirting the basaltic rock of _Las Pilas_ (7228 ft.), passing below the _Espigón Hill_, and along the wildly fissured and variegated _Roques de la Grieta_ (7211 ft.), where a new _Observatorio_ has been built near a spring (1909). This brings us to the _Guajara Hill_ (8908 ft.), near the _Guajara Pass_ (see below). Our route, now running to the W., crosses the so-called _Azulejos_ (9400 ft.), a lava wall consisting partly of blue-green rock, and at the _Boca de Tauze_ (7021 ft.) surmounts the huge lava-streams (of 1798 and 1909, comp. p. 29) of the _Chahorra_ (7743 ft.) and the _Pico Viejo_ (10,289 ft.). To the left rises the _Morro del Cedro_ (8000 ft.), the highest hill on the W. side of the crater-wall. From the N.W. side of the Cañadas, whose girdle-wall was here almost entirely destroyed by the numerous cones thrown up in 1705 and 1706, we next reach the *_Pinal de la Guancha_, the finest pine-forest in the island. Thence we traverse the huge lava slopes of the _Lomo de Vega_ (5168 ft.) to the basin of _Icod de los Vinos_ (p. 43).

A somewhat shorter path from the Portillo, crossing the saddle between the Rastrojos and the Montaña Blanca (p. 41), leads to the S.W., in 3½ hrs., direct to the _Guajara Pass_ (7992 ft.), which gives access to the village of _Vilaflor_ (4842 ft.; inn), finely situated on the S. slope of the girdle-wall of the Cañadas amid pine-woods and luxuriant orchards, and noted for the ‘Vilaflor embroidery’ (p. 32). From the brow of the _Llano de los Quemados_ we overlook the late-volcanic terraces of the _Bandas del Sur_, which are bare and thinly peopled. A fine excursion from Vilaflor is made viâ _Escalona_ (3750 ft.) and _Arona_ (2198 ft.), with views, towards the W., of the islands of Gomera and Hierro, to the little town of _Adeje_ (935 ft.), situated behind the _Adeje Mts._ (p. 32; _Roque del Carasco_, etc.), the ancient Guanche capital of the island. Near it is the *_Barranco del Infierno_, the upper half of which is the grandest ravine in Teneriffe.

The *HIGH ROAD, which at the foot of the _Montaña de Chaves_ (p. 38) sends off a by-road to the village of _Realejo Alto_ (1158 ft.), nears the sea at the rocky headland of _Rambla de Castro_.

At (27½ M. from Santa Cruz) _Realejo Bajo_ (883 ft.) the _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38) comes close down to the coast. The next stretch of road, as far as (32½ M.) _San Juan de la Rambla_ (2000 inhab.), situated on a recent lava-stream, is particularly fine. It leads past abrupt rocks and through sombre gorges (_Barranco de la Torre_, _Barranco Ruiz_), and often through banana plantations and vineyards extending to the cliffs of the coast.

37½ =M. Icod de los Vinos= (755 ft.; Hot. Inglés, poor), a small town with 2000 inhab., is the chief place in the *_Vale of Icod_, which is bounded by the Ladera de Tigaiga, the Lomo de Vega, and the Pinal de la Guancha (p. 42), rivalling the Vale of Orotava in fertility and beauty. We enjoy here a magnificent *View of the _Peak_, towering almost immediately above the coast, between the Fortaleza and the Pico Viejo (p. 42). A garden near the _Iglesia Parroquial_ contains an old dragon-tree. The _Guanches’ Cave_ below the village is not worth visiting (fee 2 p.).

A pleasant way back to the Vale of Orotava is the bridle-path viâ _Guancha_, _Icod Alto_ (p. 42), and _Realejo Alto_ (p. 42).

* * * * *

The =Gran Canaria= or ‘_Grand Canary_‘, the second-largest island in the archipelago, nearly circular in form, with 127,000 inhab. in an area of 626 sq. M., lies about 66 M. to the S.E. of Teneriffe. The best-watered and most fertile parts are the environs of _Las Palmas_, the capital, and the N. coast. The barren brown mountains in the interior, with their sharp outlines, culminate in the _Pico de las Nieves_ (6400 ft.). On every side deep barrancos or ravines descend to the coast, conspicuous among which, as we near the island from Teneriffe, is the _Barranco de Tejeda_.

The _Isleta_ (748 ft.), the N.E. promontory of Gran Canaria, once a separate island, has gradually been united to the greater island by deposits of sea-sand which form the _Istmo de Guanarteme_. The _Lighthouse_ (Faro) on the _Punta Morro de la Vieja_, on the N. side of the Isleta, is the chief landmark for steamers coming from Teneriffe or the N.

Beyond the Isleta, in the _Confital Bay_ opening to the W., lies =Puerto de la Luz= (Hot. Rayo, with café, pens. 6 p., a very fair Spanish inn; comp. Plan, p. 46), a rapidly rising place, the chief port of Gran Canaria, and the best harbour in the islands. The entrance to it is protected by a breakwater (rompeolas), about 1100 yds. long, and by the Muelle (mole) de Santa Catalina (landing or embarking in steam-launches or small boats, 1 p., trunk 50 c.). The hotel-agents from Las Palmas come on board.

A dusty ROAD leads from Puerto de la Luz, passing many new buildings, the mineral baths of _Fuente de Santa Catalina_ (near which is the _English Church_, p. 45), and the large hotels named at p. 44, to (4½ M.) _Las Palmas_. (Tramway in about 40 min.; fares 20–40 c.; tartana, a kind of dog-cart, 2, with luggage 3–4 p.)

=Las Palmas.=—HOTELS. _Santa Catalina_, pens. 10–16_s._, and _Métropole_, pens. 10–12_s._, both on the road to the harbour (comp. Plan, p. 46), ca. ¾ M. to the N. of the town, with beautiful gardens towards the sea, tennis-courts, etc.; both closed in summer.—In the town: _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. c; B, 2), with American bar and pretty garden, pens, from 8_s._ 6_d._, and _Quiney’s English Hotel_ (Pl. d; B, 2), R. 4–6, B. 1, D. 5, pens. 10–15_s._, both in the Plaza de San Bernardo (p. 45), in a quiet and pleasant situation.—_Catalan Hotel_ (Pl. e; B, 3), Calle de los Remedios 8, pens. 6 p., and _Cuatro Naciones_ (Pl. f; B, 4), Alameda de Colón, with café, pens. 6 p., both quite Spanish.—The best table-water is _Agua Firgas_.

[Illustration: LAS PALMAS]

POST OFFICE (Correos; Pl. 1, B 4), Plaza de Santa Ana (best hours 12–4). TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Telégrafo; Pl. 5, A, 2), Calle de Domingo J. Navarro 36.

THEATRE (Pl. C, 3), at the month of the Barranco Guiniguada.—MUSIC in the Alameda de Colón.

BANKERS. _Miller & Co._, Muelle de Santa Catalina, in Puerto de la Luz; _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 68, and others.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Miller & Co._ (see above), for the Union Castle, the Austro-Americana, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Bucknall, and other lines; _Grand Canary Coaling Co._, for the Peninsular & Oriental Co. and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; _Behrens_, at Puerto de la Luz, to the N. of the Muelle de Santa Catalina, for the German East African, Woermann, and Hamburg-American Lines; _Elder, Dempster, & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 93, for the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; _M. Curbelo & Co._, Calle de Muro, for the Compañía Trasatlántica.

CARRIAGES (stands in the Plaza de Cairasco, in the Plaza de San Bernardo, and near the theatre). Drive in the town for 1–3 pers. 1½p., for 4 pers. 2 p.; per hour 2½ (or for a tartana or dog-cart 2) p.; to Puerto de la Luz 5 (tartana 2) p.; to the Monte, Telde, or Arucas 15 (tartana 12½) p.; to Atalaya, San Mateo, or Teror 20 (tartana 15) p.

ENGLISH CHURCH, near the Hôt. Métropole, on the road to Puerto de la Luz (comp. Plan, p. 46).—ENGLISH CLUB at Puerto de la Luz.

_Las Palmas_, a town of 28,600 inhab., of a S. Spanish type like Santa Cruz (comp. p. 35), the seat of the bishop of Gran Canaria, situated in 28° 6′ N. lat. and 15° 12′ W. long., is the busiest and wealthiest town in the whole archipelago. The houses of the well-to-do townspeople, built of pale-grey tufa or blue lava-basalt, often enclose beautiful patios filled with plants, which are watered by means of pipes conducted from the roofs. On the hills at the back of the town, which have been fortified since the Spanish and American war, are sprinkled many gaily painted country-houses.

Las Palmas is divided into two parts (_barrios_) by the _Barranco de Guiniguada_: on the _N. Triana_, and on the _S. Vegueta_.

The main street of TRIANA, with its numerous shops, in line with the road from Puerto de la Luz, is called Calle Mayor de Triana (Pl. B, C, 1–3). Beyond the _Baranquillo de Mata_ it intersects the Plaza San Telmo (Pl. B, 1), in which rises the _Gobierno Militar_ (Pl. 2; B, 1).

The Paseo de Bravo Murillo (Pl. B, A, 1) ascends the gorge to the right to the Carretera del Norte (p. 47). On the left is the _Harbour_ (Pl. B, C, 1), with the pier (Muelle), where the sea-breezes may be enjoyed in hot weather.

From the Calle Mayor de Triana, farther on, the Calle Constantino diverges to the right to the Plaza de San Bernardo (Pl. A, B, 2), a square planted with Indian laurels. Near the S. end of the street the Calle del General Bravo leads to the Alameda de Colón (Pl. B, 3), which is embellished with a bust of Columbus and fine royal and date palms (p. 30). In this square rise the _Iglesia de San Francisco_ (1689) and the _Casino_.

The central point of VEGUETA is the Plaza de Santa Ana (Pl. B, 4), where the guides lie in wait for strangers. The bronze dogs at the lower end of the plaza, as well as those in the arms of the town, recall the tradition that Juba II. (p. 31) carried away some dogs (_canes_) from the island, and that their name is derived thence.

The CATHEDRAL (Pl. B, C, 4; _San Christóbal_), founded in 1497 and restored in 1781, with its heavy façade flanked with towers 184 ft. high, contains, in the first chapel of the left aisle, the tombstone of the native poet Bart. Cairasco de Figueroa (1540–1610), and in the crypt the tomb of Viera y Clavijo (1731–1802), the historian of the Canaries.

The TOWN HALL (Palacio Municipal; Pl. B, 4), built in 1842, contains, on the third floor, the _Museo Canario_, consisting of natural history collections and of curiosities from the Guanche caverns of the Isleta (p. 43) and other places (implements, weapons, and tools in basalt, obsidian, horn, wood, and clay, leather-work, and mummies). Adm. free, daily 11–3.

For a prolonged stay the _Monte_ is preferable to Las Palmas. It is reached by the Carretera del Centro (comp. Pl. A, 5), the best road in the island. Ascending from the suburb of San Roque, and soon affording splendid views, the road at first follows the Barranco de Guiniguada (p. 45), and then winds up the slopes of the _Pico del Viento_ (820 ft.).

3¾ M. _Tafira_ (1230 ft.; Hotel Victoria; James’s Boarding House), the first village on the *=Monte=, a colony of villas and a favourite winter resort of the English.

8 M. _Santa Brígida_ (1572 ft.; Hot. Santa Brígida, in a fine open situation with a beautiful park, pens. from 10_s._ 6_d._; Quiney’s Bella Vista, ½ M. below the other, pens. 8–10_s._), a finely situated village with 500 inhabitants.