Part 74

THEATRES. _Teatro Grande_, built in 1895 on the model of San Carlo at Naples, near the Porta Reale; Ital. opera in winter; _Summer Theatre_, to the S. of the Ginnasio.

SEA BATHS (80 l. to 1 dr.) and plunge-baths, near Punta San Nicolò.

ENGLISH CHURCH (_Holy Trinity_), service in the season.

_Corfu_, Ital. _Corfù_, Greek _Kérkyra_, the capital of the island of the same name and the seat of archbishops of the Greek and Roman Catholic churches, is one of the wealthiest towns in the Greek dominions (pop. 28,250, incl. 4000 Rom. Cath. and 2700 Jews). The spacious harbour is enlivened by a brisk trade, the chief export being olive-oil. The fortifications constructed by the Venetians, the _Fortezza Vecchia_, picturesquely situated in the sea, on a double rock to the E. of the town, and the _Fortezza Nuova_, on the N.W., are both now unimportant. The narrow streets present a busy scene. The chief languages are Greek and Italian.

_Kérkyra._ Lat. _Corcyra_, the largest (245 sq. M.) and most important of the Ionian Islands, was supposed in ancient times to have been _Scheria_, the home of the Phæaci and their king Alkinoos. Having been colonized by the Corinthians at an early period (734 B. C.), it developed into a dangerous rival of its mother-city, thus partly causing the Peloponnesian war. The mediæval name seems to have been derived from ‘Korphus’, as the old fortress on the two rocks was called. From 1386 to 1797 Corfu belonged to Venice, from 1815 to 1863 it was under British sway, after which it was ceded, along with the other Ionian Islands, to the kingdom of Greece.

The island (with 93,860 inhab.) possesses hill and plain, bold rocks and charming bays on the coast, abundant water-supply, rich vegetation, and fine old olive forests, which combine to render its scenery highly attractive. The climate is mild and equable in spring and autumn. The good roads made everywhere by the British government add to the comfort and enjoyment of a short stay in the island.

On disembarking we cross the courtyard of the Dogana, turn to the left at the small Hôt. de Constantinople, and follow the _Strada sulle Mura_, which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and reaches the Esplanade near the royal palace. Or we may ascend direct from the Dogana through the _Strada Nikephoros_, the busy main street, in 5 min. to the Esplanade. Before we reach the Esplanade we pass a side-street on the left with the church of _Santo Spiridione_, and another on the right with the _Teatro Vecchio_, built by the Venetians, now the municipio.

The ESPLANADE, or _Spianata_, lies between the town and the old fortress. On the W. side it is bounded by handsome houses with arcades on the groundfloor. At the N. end rises the—

=Royal Palace=, built in grey Malta stone, at the beginning of the British period, for the Lord High Commissioner, and containing the throne-room and the hall of the former Ionian senate. The entrance is by the W. side-door (gratuity). A marble staircase ascends to the first floor. At the top is an antique lion couchant.—In front of the palace is a _Statue of Sir Frederick Adam_, a much respected Lord High Commissioner of the islands (1823–32).

At the E. end of the double avenue intersecting the Esplanade rises a statue of _Count von der Schulenburg_, who conducted the defence of Corfu against the Turks in 1716, erected by the republic of Venice. Beyond it a bridge crosses a strait to the—

*=Fortezza Vecchia= (adm. on application), which rises on the steep twin-rocks in terraces. The dilapidated buildings are now used as barracks and a military hospital. At the foot of the height is the garrison-church built by the British. The passage opposite the chief entrance gives access to the commandant’s house. We ascend hence to the left, pass through a long vaulted passage, leading straight on to the ramparts, which are overgrown with vegetation, and lastly mount a few steps to the platform on the W. rock (230 ft.; with signalling station and lighthouse). The custodian lends a telescope (25 l.). We enjoy here a superb **View of the town and of the island, from Monte San Salvatore and Capo Cassopetto on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S.; to the E. is Epirus in Turkey, with its lofty mountains.

A broad street descends from the S. end of the Esplanade to the VIALE DELL’ IMPERATRICE ELISABETTA, formerly _Strada Marina_, skirting the shore below the new quarter of the town and now a favourite promenade in the evening. At the beginning of it, on the right, is the _Casino_, with reading and concert rooms. Turning to the right after 4 min., and then to the left, we come to the _Museum_, containing ancient sculptures and tomb-inscriptions. Near it is the round _Tomb of Menecrates_, resembling a well (7th or 6th cent. B.C.). Above is the ruined _Fort of San Salvatore_ (prison).

The boulevard sweeps round the suburb of =Kastrades= or _Garitza_ first to the S. and then to the E. to the Molo protecting the bay. At a bend, short of the molo, we follow the Viale Imperatore Guglielmo Secondo to the right (S.). After 7 min., opposite the apse of the old church of _Santa Corcyra_, we ascend a road to the left. A gate on the left is the entrance to the—

*=Royal Villa of Monrepos= (_Villa Reale_; free on Sun. and Thurs. aft.). The park affords fine views of the town and castle.

The Viale Imperatore Guglielmo skirts the W. slope of the hilly peninsula which stretches to the S., between _Lake Kalikiópulo_ and the sea. Here probably lay the ancient city, with the bay of Kastrades as its trading harbour, while the Lake of Kalikiopulo, now choked with mud, seems to have been the _Portus Hyllaeicus_, used as a station for vessels of war. The road is bordered with rose and orange gardens, and farther on with beautiful olive-groves. In 25 min. (or from the Esplanade in ¾ hr.) we reach a round open space, called the *=Canone=, or _One-gun Battery_ (carr. 5–6 fr.), which commands a superb view of the E. coast of the island.

Opposite, at the entrance to the ancient Hyllæan harbour, lies the _Scoglio di Ulisse_ (‘cliff of Ulysses’), or _Pontikonisi_ (‘mouse island’), a cypress-planted islet with a chapel and parsonage, now owned by an enterprising German. The Greeks took this to be the ship of the Phæacians which had brought Odysseus to Ithaca, and on its way back was turned into stone by the angry Poseidon. The S.W. shore of the Lake of Kalikiopulo, where a brook named _Kressida_ enters the lake, is pointed out as the place where Odysseus was cast ashore and met the princess Nausicaa.

The charming drive to _Gasturi_ and _Benizze_ (7½ M.) and back takes 3–4 hrs. (carr. 10–15 dr.; as far as the Achilleion, there and back 2½ hrs., 8–10 dr.). We leave the town by the former W. gate, or _Porta Reale_ and pass through the suburb of _San Rocco_. The road runs a little to the W. of Lake Kalikiopulo and ascends in windings to (5 M.) =Gasturi= (Achilleion, pens. 7 dr.). About ½ M. farther, a little to the left, is the villa *=Achilleion= (adm. to the building and the grounds 11–3, 2 dr.), built in 1890–1 for Empress Elizabeth of Austria (d. 1898), in the Italian Renaissance style, and purchased by the German emperor in 1907. The back of the villa is adjoined by a peristyle and three terraces adorned with statues. On the road, just beyond the villa, is the _Restaurant Bella Vista_. We now descend (short-cuts for walkers) to the (2 M.) fishing-village of _Benizze_, where delicious oranges grow, and where there are remains of a Roman villa (boat to Corfu, 5 dr.)

Another delightful excursion is to _Santi Deca_ (carr. 10–15 dr.; there and back 5–6 hrs.). About ¾ M. short of Gasturi the road diverges to the right from the Benizze road. The drive to the village of _Hagi Deka_ or _Santi Deca_ (‘ten saints’; 676 ft.) takes 1¼ hr. (the walk 2 hrs.). Thence we ascend (guide) the (1 hr.) double-peaked =Monte Santi Deca= (1862 ft.), where we have a superb view, notably of the Albanian coast. A narrow path then descends, the last part through olive-groves, to (½ hr.) _Apano-Garuna_, and proceeds thence to the N. to (¼ hr.) the pass of _San Teódoro_ or _Hagios Theódoros_ (788 ft.), where the carriage quitted at Santi Deca may be ordered to meet us. The drive back to Corfu viâ _Kamára_ takes 1½ hr.

The monastery of =Palæokastrizza= (‘old castle’), on the W. coast, about 15 M. to the N.W., is a delightful point of view (carr. there and back 20–25 dr., in 6 hrs., excl. stops). A road diverging to the right about halfway, 1½ M. beyond the picturesque bay of _Govino_, crosses the _Pheleka_ and leads over the fine _San Pantaleone Pass_ and through hill scenery to the N. coast. Far to the right, on the E. coast, rises _Monte San Salvatore_ (Greek _Pantokrator_; 2998 ft.; ascended with guide in 3 hrs. from _Spartilla_; carr. from Corfu to Spartilla viâ Giovino, Ipso, and Pyrgi, in 2½ hrs., about 20 dr.).

See also _Baedeker’s Greece_.

* * * * *

As the STEAMER leaves Corfu the picturesque fortress remains long in view. The highest hill on the right is _Monte Santi Deca_ (see p. 499). The strait widens. To the left is the mouth of the _Kalamas_; beyond it tower the Albanian Mts.; on our right is _Cape Lévkimo_. On the left, off _Kavo Aspro_ or _Capo Bianco_, the S. point of Corfu, lie the small _Sybota Islands_, where, in 432 B. C., was fought the great naval battle between the Corinthians and the Corcyræans, supported by the Athenians, which marked the outbreak of the Peloponnesian war.

In 2½–3 hrs., after passing the rocky islets of _Paxos_ and _Antipaxos_, we reach the open Ionian Sea. On the mainland is seen the little town of _Parga_.

We now leave in the distance the Epirote coast, where, off Actium, at the mouth of the Ambracian bay, Octavian’s naval victory over Antony in 31 B.C. gave him the sole supremacy. On the left the island of _Levkás_ (Ital. _Santa Maura_) remains long in sight; its S.W. headland, _Kavo Dukato_, 5 M. long, ends in the _Leucadian Rock_, which once bore a temple of Apollo. Sappho, who loved the beautiful Phaon, is said to have thrown herself from this rock, a leap which was supposed to cure unrequited love.

We round the cape and enter the strait between Levkás and _Kephallēnía_ (Ital. _Cefalonia_). Steering to the S.E., past the E. side of _Ithaca_, we have a good view of its beautiful mountain with a deep depression in the middle. At the entrance to the bay of Patras lie the _Oxia Islands_. Here in 1571 was fought the naval battle of Lépanto, where Don John of Austria annihilated the Turkish fleet.

Nearing _Cape Kalógria_, the N.W. point of the Peloponnesus, we observe to the N., beyond a narrow strip of coast and a large lagoon, the little town of _Misolonghi_ or _Mesolóngion_, where Byron died in 1824. Beyond it rises _Mt. Zygós_ (3107 ft.), the last outpost, to the W., of the high Ætolian range. Next, on the N. shore also, we sight the finely-shaped _Varássova_ (3007 ft.) and _Klókova_ (3415 ft.). In the Peloponnesus, to the S., tower the _Olonos Mts._ (7300 ft.) and the _Voïdiá_ (6322 ft.). Patras, completely surrounded with currant-plantations, becomes more and more distinctly visible.

=Patras.=—ARRIVAL. The steamer anchors in the harbour near the Molo San Nicolò (examination of luggage at the railway-station, see below). Landing or embarkation 1, with baggage 2 dr.; but the boatmen usually try to extort far more. Hotel-boat 2½ dr.—STATION, to the N.E. of the harbour, 5 min. from the landing-place.

HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand) all near the landing-place. _Hôt. d’Angleterre_, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 8–12½ fr., well spoken of; _Gr.-Hôt. de Patras_, R. 4, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 12½ fr.; between these, _New & Tourist Hotel_, St. Andreas Street, R. 2½ fr., B. 70 c., déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 8 fr., well spoken of.—CAFÉS-RESTAURANTS at the first two hotels.

POST OFFICE, St. Nicholas Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, in the first cross-street to the right as we come from the harbour.

CAB. Drive in town 1 dr.—ELECTRIC TRAMWAY in St. Andreas Street, parallel with the quay, and to the upper town.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, St. Andreas Street, next the New Hotel; _Austro-Americana_, _Morphy & Son_; _Panhellēnios_, St. Andreas St., a little to the W. of the harbour; _Società Nazionale_, St. Andreas St.

CONSULATES. British (next Gr.-Hôt. de Patras): consul, _F. B. Wood_; vice-consul, _G. W. Crowe_.—United States (opposite the Gr.-Hôt. de Patras): consul, _A. B. Cooke_; vice-consul, _H. J. Woodley_.

ENGLISH CHURCH (_St. Andrew’s_), near the station (see above); service at 11 a.m.

_Patras_, the third town of Greece (pop. 37,700), is surpassed in its trade by the Piræus only. Currants, the staple produce of the Peloponnesus, and wine are the chief exports. The town was destroyed by the Turks in 1821, and after the war of independence was rebuilt with broad and regular streets bordered with arcades.

_Patrae_ first rose to importance under Augustus and afterwards gained great wealth by its trade. In 1205 the Franks made it their base for the conquest of the Peloponnesus (Morea). Since the 15th cent. it has belonged successively to the Venetians, the Pope, the Byzantines, and the Turks, and since 1833 to the kingdom of Greece.

The main street is that of _Hagios Nikólaos_ (St. Nicholas), leading to the S.E. from the quay. The third cross-street to the right leads to the _Platia Hagios Geórgios_, containing the theatre and law-courts. The second side-street to the left leads to another square with the _High School_, which contains a few ancient sculptures. The first street to the N.E. running parallel with the Hagios Nikólaos Street leads to the _Castle_, once Venetian, then Turkish (now barracks and prison), which affords a fine view of the gulf.

Excursion to _Olympia_ by railway (5 hrs.), see _Baedeker’s Greece_.

The RAILWAY FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS (137½ M., in 6½–9½ hrs.; see p. 496) is preferable to the steamers, as the traveller thus gains several clear hours for Athens. The Corinth Canal is used by the Società Nazionale and Achaia Co. only. The voyage round the Peloponnesus to the Piræus (360 M.) takes more than a day.

The train skirts the narrow S. margin of the *_Gulf of Corinth_, the grand mountains of which recall those of the Norwegian fiords. Between the ruined fortresses of _Rhion_ and _Antirrhion_, a little way from Patras, the gulf narrows to 1¼ M. and soon, near _Naupaktos_, contracts again. 25 M. _Ægion_ (Buffet); 33 M. _Diakophto_, whence a rack-and-pinion line mounts the hills inland. Then, above two deep bays on the N. bank, towers Mt. Parnassus. At the E. end of the gulf lies (81 M.) _Corinth_ (halt of ¼ hr.; Buffet, déj. 4 dr.). In the isthmus of Corinth the train crosses the Corinth Canal (3¾ M. long, 25 yds. wide, 26 ft. deep) by a bridge 170 ft. high, and then skirts the N. bank of the _Saronic Gulf_ (p. 494). On the right the eye ranges as far as the mountains of the Argolis peninsula and Ægina. Beyond (108 M.) _Megara_ we near the N. coast of Salamis. Beyond (120½ M.) _Eleusis_ the train turns inland and passes through the depression between (r.) Mt. Ægaleos (p. 494) and (l.) Mt. Parnes into the Attic plain. Arrival at (137½ M.) _Athens_, Peloponnesian Station, see below (hotel-agents in waiting; carr. 2 dr.).

* * * * *

Most STEAMERS (see p. 501) set out in a W. direction from the Gulf of Patras, holding straight out to Kephallenia and keeping distant Ithaca to the right. They then steer to the S. between the promontory of _Chelonatas_, the W. point of the Peloponnesus, and the island of _Zante_ or _Zakynthos_. Beyond the cape and the little harbour-town of _Katakolo_, the calling-place for _Pyrgos_ and _Olympia_ (p. 501), the coast recedes and forms the sweeping curve of the _Gulf of Kyparissia_; behind rise the heights of the _Lykaeon_ (4659 ft.). Later on we pass the _Strophades_ on the right. At the extremity of the Gulf of Kyparissia the _Ægaleon_ (4003 ft.) marks the beginning of the Messenian Peninsula. The steamers double the S. point and from here to the Piræus their course is the same as that of the Naples boats (see pp. 493, 494).

79. Athens.[8]

STATIONS. _Peloponnesian_ (Pl. B, 1), for Patras, etc., on the N.W. side of the town.—_Piraeus Railway_, see p. 503.—Tickets also at the tourist-agencies, see 504.

Footnote 8:

MONEY. Greece belongs to the Latin Monetary Convention. The franc is called a _drachmē_ (dr.; pl. drachmǽs), the centime _leptón_ (l.; pl. leptá). The currency is chiefly paper (notes of 1, 2, and 5 dr.), and the chief banks issue also their own notes (for 10, 25, 100, 500 dr., etc.). In nickel there are coins of 5 l. (_pendára_, a sou or soldo), 10 l. (_dekára_), and 20 l.; in copper, 1, 2, 5, and 10 lepta. The only silver coins of full value are the 5 fr. pieces. It is safest to decline all foreign silver. The present exchange (1911) for the English pound is about 25 paper dr., for the gold 20 fr. piece 20 dr.

[Illustration: ATHÈNES]

=Hotels.= At most of the hotels it is usual to arrange for a fixed charge per day; at the chief English and French are spoken; charges mostly in gold, that is, in francs instead of drachmæ; charges higher during the Olympic games. *HÔT. DE LA GRANDE-BRETAGNE (Pl. b; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, opposite the Palace, R. from 7½, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 6, pens. 17½–30 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. a; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, cor. of the Rue d’Hermès, pens. 17½–25 fr.; *PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; E, 4), Rue du Stade 18, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12 fr.; these three are of the first class.—*TOURIST HOTEL (Pl. t; E, 5), cor. of the Rue d’Hermès and Rue de la Boulé, R. 3–8, B. 1, déj. 4½, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue du Stade, R. 3–6, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens. 8–12 fr.; HÔT. DES ETRANGERS & SPLENDID (Pl. c; F, 6), Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue des Philhellènes, R. 5–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; *HÔT. DE LA MINERVE (Pl. g; F, 5), Rue du Stade 5, near Place de la Constitution, pens. from 12 fr., also R. from 4 dr. out of the season; *HÔT. HERMÈS (Pl. s; E, 3), Boulevard de l’Université 46, pens. from 10 fr., also R. without board from 3 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c., déj. 3½, D. 4½ fr.; *HÔT. D’ATHÈNES (Pl. f; E, 4), cor. of Rue du Stade and Rue de Korais, R. 3–6 dr., B. 1 dr. 20 l., déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–14 dr., or less for some stay, R. alone, out of season, from 3 dr.; these three are good second-class inns in the Italian style, with restaurants; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. r; F, 5), Rue du Stade 9, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT.-PENS. ST. GEORGES (Pl. h; E, F, 5), Rue du Stade, beside the Parliament House, R. 3–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 8–15 fr.; *HÔT. IMPÉRIAL (Pl. i; F, 5), Rue Karageorgevitch, R. 2–10, pens. 8–12 fr.; HÔT. NATIONAL (Pl. q; E, 4), Rue du Stade 30, R. (from 3 dr.) and B. (1½ dr.) only, good.—In the warm season a mosquito-curtain (kunupiera) should be asked for.

=Pensions=, recommended for a stay of some time. _Maison Merlin_ (Pl. G, 5), cor. of the Rues de Kanári and de Sekéri; _Pens. MacTaggart_, Rue du Stade 12, opposite the Parliament, pens. from 8 fr.; both English.

=Restaurants.= At the _Hôtels de la Minerve_, _Hermès_, and _d’ Athènes_, see above; also good, in the Rue du Stade: No. 6, _Averof_, with garden; No. 24, _Cité_, with garden; at corner of the Rue de Patisia, _Kapsēs_; in Rue de Thémistocle, _Sintrivanēs_. French usually understood.

=Cafés.= _Zacharátos_, Place de la Constitution, corner of the Rue du Stade (music on summer evenings); _Zacharátos_, Place Omónia, N. side; at the _Zappion_ (p. 508), where there is always a cool sea-breeze.—TEA ROOMS. _Khrysákis_, Place de la Constitution.

=Wine.= _Achaia Wine Co._, Rue de Niké 1 (Pl. E, 5, 6).—BARS. _Papagiannakis_, Rue du Stade 40; _Apotsos_, Rue du Stade 9; _Skekos_, Rue Karageorgevitch (Greek beer 30 l. per glass).

The =Water= of the Aqueduct (p. 528) is, especially in the hot months, not above reproach. The hotels and restaurants supply good water from the _Marusi_ spring. The mineral waters of _Sáriza_ and _Lutraki_ cost about 25 l. per half-bottle.

=Cabs.= To or from Peloponnesian Station 2 dr.; short drive in town 1 dr., longer 1½ dr.; to the Acropolis 2 dr.; to the Piræus with luggage 6–10 dr.; drives in town and environs 20–30 dr. per day; per hr. 3, afternoon 4 dr. (with one horse cheaper). Agreement advisable.

=Tramways= (numbered; fare 10–15, transfer 15 l.; comp. Plan). The chief lines are: =1.= From _Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) viâ Place de la Constitution, Amalia St., Rue de Phalère (Pl. D, 8), Tsitsiphiés (on the coast), and then alternately to the left to _Old Phálēron_ and to the right to _New Phálēron_; fare 25 l.—From PLACE OMÓNIA: =2.= viâ Rue du Stade, Place de la Constitution (Pl. F, 5, 6), and Rue des Philhellènes to the _English Church_ (p. 504); =3.= viâ the National Museum to _Patisia_ (comp. Pl. E, 1); =4.= viâ the Rue du Pirée, Dipylon, Theseion Station (Pl. B, 5), Monasteraki Station, and the Rue d’Athéna to _Place Omónia_; =5.= viâ the Rue Constantin to _Peloponnesian Station_ (Pl. B, 1).—=12.= From _Place de la Constitution_ (Pl. F, 5, 6) viâ the Rue des Philhellènes and Boulevard Olga (Pl. F, G, 7, 8) to the _Stadion_ (Pl. G, H, 8).—=16.= From the _Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) to the _Acropolis_.

=Electric Railway= to _New Phálēron_ and the _Piraeus_ every ¼ hr., in 18 min. (fare 65 or 45 l., return 1 dr. 15 or 80 l.; to Phaleron 40 or 30, return 75 or 55 l.). Three stations in Athens: _Omónia_ (Pl. D, 3), _Monastēráki_ (Pl. C, 5), and _Theseion_ (Pl. B, 5); fare between these 5–10 l.; the ticket-clerks speak French.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Place de la Constitution, corner of Rue d’Hermès; _Ghiolman Bros._, _T. D. Ralli_, both same Place.—For steamboat-agents at the Piræus, see p. 495.

=Banks= (9–12 and 3–5; in summer, forenoon only). _Banque Nationale_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue d’Eole; _Banque d’Orient_ (Pl. D, 3, 4), Rue de Sophocle; _Banque d’Athènes_ (Pl. E, 4), Rue du Stade 32; _Banque Ionienne_ (Pl. E, 4), same street, No. 14.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. D, 3), opposite Banque Nationale. Letter under 15 grammes within Postal Union 25 l., in Greece 20, in Athens 10 l.; registration 25 l.; deltarion or post-card, 10 or 5 l.

=Theatres= (Nov. to May). _Royal National_ (Pl. C, 2), Rue Constantin; _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. D, 3). Several summer-theatres.—=Bands= play every summer evening in the Place de la Constitution, at the Záppion (p. 508), and at New Phaleron (p. 528). Military band, Place de la Constitution, Sun. and Thurs. afternoons.